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Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3


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Here is Sumer Breeze with her new ownwers, Dale and Kristi in Florida.

Oh, man, I just can't do that again. I've done a few small sailboats with all the filleting and taping and mixing and sanding. I also did a round few strip/glass canoes with all the mixing and sanding

After considerable research and development, I've found surgical tubing makes the finest slingshot engine.

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Thanks Jay. Is this the one? http://www.mcmaster.com/#lever-nuts/=10d938i

3/8"-16 9/16" 3 1/16" 1 17/32" 3577K6 $15.98

 

 One of the Messabout guys with a welder outa set up a little production run of these by welding a short bar to a regular nut. Should be able to beat the cost and still make a few bucks.

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True Frearson are much better than Phillips, but most can't tell the two apart. I prefer square drive (Robertson) over Phillips, because they can be "extracted" easier, come this need. Torx (star) work pretty well, though there's a modified Torx that works better. I've found you just need the right driver, with a new tip and most of the common fasteners drive well. The only times I've had issues is with a worn tool or tip and using power drive or extract equipment.

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Pete sent this in a PM. I got his permission to re-post it here.

 

"Chick, Happy birthday !!!
Just noticed today's your BD while researching hatch designs. I saw a design concept (by Steve W) on his July 14 (Bastiele Day) posting on your CS17.3 log. I really like the "trench" type hatch and companionway and his concept looked prommising. But I think you went for two hatches -- kinda like Jay did on his Southern Express. At the Mess-About I tried Jay's forward hatch -- but it was very hard for these 82 yr old bones to wiggle up thru it. Have you moved the aft edge of the forward hatch rearward to make getting up thru it easier? Why didn't you go for the trench type hatch vs the fore & aft hatches? And do you think the absence of a little hood over the forward edge of the aft hatch will be a problem re water intrusion on the water or highway?

By-the-way, I tried to determine my personal "reach" into the anchor well while standing on the forward end of the v-bunks. By leaning over Bulk #2 (about waist-high) on the starboard side of the tabernacle, I could actually reach the sole of the anchor deck and also out to about 6" aft of the stem. That's about what I could do in "Tattoo," my PocketShip -- and that was enough to launch and recover the anchor. If I stand on a short 3" (cushion thickness) stool, I can reach a bit further. And for Chesapeake waters, I probably won't be raising/lowering the mast except in the parking lot. I'm hoping to find a good detail design for the cascading hatches, like Graham's. But Graham keeps putting off the details of his concept.

Steve, are you still aiming for a cascading hatch? I liked the looks of yours. Maybe we could kick some ideas around a bit?

I also just recently saw Chick's post showing the boarding ladder. For a solo sailor, I think it's an essential safety requirement. Could you send me your source and model number? When in the stowed position, does any part of the ladder extend above or below the transom? Here is one that I'm considering:

http://www.marinedep...eel-ladder.html

It's profile looks about like yours, but would provide a couple more steps for these old bones to climb. Might be easier. Do either of you have an opinion on this?

I'm trying to think of anything that I could more conveniently do now (before decking) that would be a bear later. A boarding ladder would be such an item. It may delay progress now, but in the end it all has to be done anyway."

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                                                                                                                                                                                                        Pete. Thanks for the b'day wish.

 

I just don't like the complication of a trench as far as building it or making it watertight. I have no problem getting up through the forward hatch to reach the wing nut holding the mast, or the anchor on the "anchor sprit". My hatch opening is 22 1/2" wide and 15" long. The companionway hatch works like any other, so water entrance is not a problem. No need for a "little hood. The forward edge of the hatch opening is at bulkhead #2, so standing on the forward end of the bunks is convenient.

 

I plan to be able to raise and lower the mast from the forward hatch. Jay has tried this and says it works fine. I'll be doing this on the water to pass under bridges.

 

The boarding ladder does stick up some and I'll have to watch the mizzen sheet just like I have to watch it on the motor. It would be nice to have it go deeper in the water, but this would have it sticking up in the air when folded. Thrillsbe has a neat ladder that stows in a tube through the transom. Check-it-out in his build log. Below are some pics of Don's ladder before installation.

 

post-1823-0-48533000-1451075004_thumb.jpg   post-1823-0-27118800-1451075006_thumb.jpg

 

post-1823-0-42188000-1451075007_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

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I'm still planning a cascading hatch or a saloon hatch, but I'm not even done with the cockpit module! You guys are shaming me, but in my defense I have three teenagers. Today we are making Nordic roller skis to combat the lack of snow so they can train. As much as I love the workshop it is even better with my boys with me working on something.

 

I think fresh water sailors spend much more tie swimming, so both for safety and convenience, a ladder is important. All of these designs give me a lot to think about.

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Steve,...

What is a "saloon" hatch? Is it like the modified photo that you posted on July 14? I'm tentatively leaning towards that design concept. Do you know of others that may have successfully waterproofed (rain at highway speeds) such a hatch? Maybe we could get some good ideas from their successes. I haven't tried it out yet, but I'd like to be able to enter the cabin from the cockpit with the hatch closed. If there is a removable ladder in place (like Jay made), then one might be able to back into the cabin with the hatch closed.

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Steve-- my "kids" are grown and gone, plus I'm retired.  My build is at a standstill, because we're up north (Michigan) visiting them all.  Have fun with them while you can.  They grow up and fly the nest in the blink of an eye.  

 

I also think of the boarding ladder as a safety device.  If I fall overboard (I'm the only sailor in the boat, typically.), or capsize, I know that this retiree can easily get back into the boat.  Since these boats have such good floatation, they are a little more difficult to re-enter than my old Wayfarer, when swamped.  And yeah, I do plan to go swimming in the reservoirs around here.  The Carolina heat can be pretty intense.  I want to have the option to take a dip.

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I am completing a boarding ladder that will plug into the motor socket on the transom.  If you fall overboard, you just have to plan ahead, remove the motor and install the boarding ladder.  It is designed for the grandkids to swim off the boat.  When it is finished I want to electroplate it.  Anybody have any resources to electroplate stainless steel? 

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The electroplate process makes it shiney (I must be part crow) but it also makes it more corrosion resistant and makes the welds look better as it "desolves" the tiny highs in the weld. Also tends to mask the heat affected area.

 

You are describing electropolishing, not electroplating.

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Not much happening up here in the mountains with Summer Breeze. Been busy with Christmas and today it's really wet out. I'll try to do some sanding. Have to do "life" for a couple of days after that, and then it's gonna get COLD. I'll report again later this week and catch ya up.

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Instead of electropolishing, I'd recommend you simply polish and re-pacify if you've done major cutting or grinding. Of course, depending on the SS grade, but most (marine) can take a fine finish and tolerate being in the water too, without having to pay to dip the stuff. Lastly, there are now paint systems that rival chrome. I don't mean the aluminum stuff in a rattle can, but in fact the multi stage systems that look like mirrors. It's not cheap, but is less costly than actually chroming and it can be treated like a two stage paint system (clean, buff, polish and wax) which is a lot easier and probably more durable too.

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