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Chick Ludwig

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Chick Ludwig last won the day on August 4

Chick Ludwig had the most liked content!

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About Chick Ludwig

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 12/24/1946

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  • Location
    Hendersonville, NC
  • Interests
    Building/using power and sail boats. Usually go on 2 or 3 day cruises.
    Built prototype Princess 22, Outer Banks 20, and CS-20 Mk-2, CS-17 Mk-3, and Turtler. have also built Moccasin-1, Moccasin-2 canoes, and Mini-paw dingy---all from B and B plans. Old Codger, a modified Jessy 15. Happy Hour Kayak

    Used to be professional fiberglass boat builder and repairer. Also worked in production design for several sailing yacht builders in Florida.

    Messing about in boats, boat building, Building r/c model planes. Turtle collecting. Working on our new home in the mountains.

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  1. I sometimes like Titebond III for a perfect joint with relatively large gluing area. But trust it better with mechanical back-up. I glued cleats on Old Codger to support the lift out hatches in my berth top. So far, two of them have broken loose when I've sat on them. All-in-all, epoxy is to be preferred! Here's how I warm my poxy when it's cold in the shop..
  2. You don't even need to build a frame for your tent. If you do your building "in the open" in the shop with enough heat from your stove to keep you warm, then throw your plastic over the boat and set the space heater under it when you finish working and let the wood stove burn down. If you are working on flat panels or sub assemblies, set up a couple of saw horses, chairs, or whatever to hold the plastic sheet up. maybe with 2x4s layed across them I used to do this when building and repairing fiberglass boats as a business. The polyester resin I used was even more critical to keep warm than epoxy.
  3. It has been around for a long time, and many boats have been built with it. BUT you have to have very good joints. No gaps! And clamp tightly. Stitch and glue boats use lots of fillets to join panels and such. You have to use epoxy for those. Also taping seams. How about this suggestion. Use plastic to build a tent over your boat or the parts you are gluing. Place a small space heater under the plastic (Just be sure it doesn't touch anything flammable!) Many folks have done this and successfully glue in a cold shop.
  4. Alan. Question. You stated, "... cupfuls of microSPHERES (not micro-balloons)". Microspheres are solid and microballoons are hollow? Which is Q-cell? As far as I know, it's microballoons. What is a brand name for microspheres? Cabosil is different from both of these. It's "fumed silica". I've used Q-cell for a fairing putty. It sands really fast, but sags if put on too thick. I've mixed various ratios of Cabosil and Q-cell to prevent sagging. I have Q-cell, which is a trade name, and also some labeled "Microballoons". The Q-cell is white, and the micro-balloons are tan colored. I believe that the micro-balloons are phenolic material, but what is the Q-cell made of? Boy, I sure can make a simple subject complicated! I just Googled Microspheres and microballoons. Seems that to most folks they are the same. Now THAT really confuses the issue. Dang! Here is a better description from Wikipedia. It basically says that microBALLOONS are a hollow form of microSPHERES. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glass_microsphere Microballoons are easier to sand, but weaker as a putty than microsheres. Cabosil is much stronger, but hard to sand. Then we just go and confuse everything by adding wood flour. Sorry, y'all, I'll shut up about this subject now. Alan, you can just straighten it all out for us! (Insert smiley face here.) I don't pre-coat plywood before laying the glass, and ya gotta work back and forth to wet the glass because the wood soaks up the poxy. Pre-coating is good. Lay the glass right on top of the wet poxy either when it's soaked in a bit, but still wet, or when it starts to tack up a bit. Do NOT let it fully cure or you'll need to sand before glassing.
  5. I'm a lazy old codger and use power whenever possible. I roughly plane the chine with my power plane to the angles like you did. Then I use an air file in those pesky chines. Hold it in line with the chine and rotate it up and down and back and forth along the chine. It does take a larger compressor to run this puppy, though. https://www.amazon.com/Ingersoll-315-Piston-Straight-Sander/dp/B00004XOT5/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1IQ76L63GVQYD&keywords=air+file+sander&qid=1569930460&sprefix=air+file%2Caps%2C155&sr=8-2 I usually glass the hull in 5 sections. Bottom, sides, and transom. This gives a double layer over all of the corners. I like to do the bottom first, let it cure, then fair the edges along the chines and transom.. Then do he sides. For me, this makes it easier to avoid ridges where the glass overlaps. You DO make it all look so easy!
  6. Thanks rick. i was very pleased with it first time out. Did as well as my "Walmart special" plastic kayak. Not for long trips, but great to poke around the little coves and creeks. Lotsa stability. Great for trying to net some turkles. I'd like to build a couple of versions of it just for fun. A sailing version, and an electric with the motor mounted under the aft deck.
  7. mainly ignore Honey-doo. Actually, boat projects come in spurts. I won't do another for a bit.
  8. Finally got to try my Happy Hour Kayak. We went to Lake Adger, 45 minutes down the road from Hendersonville, NC where we live. I'm VERY pleased with it's performance. Easy to paddle with a surprising turn of speed. It tracks well when paddling, but is sensitive to wind when drifting. With a sweep stroke, it turns in it's own length. Great stability. I even caught a little river cooter (turtle) with my net. There's plenty of room for my cooler in the aft compartment. Ready to go. Miss Debbie paddled the plastic kayak and took the pictures. I'll move the seat forward a bit next time. That will totally clear the transom and bring the bow down. Shallow here! Notice the heron standing behind me. Old guy looks happy. Bye, y'all. Back home and safely tucked away.
  9. i think a CS15 would make a great camp cruiser without the rig. I'd make a removable cuddy for it. Not excited about electric though. Just not enough power or capacity. My little 2.5 hp Zuki would do great. Old Codger is the planing version of the CS15. I wanna go faster than displacement speed.
  10. Thanks for posting this story. I'll never get "Down East" other than the area we southern folks call down east in Core sound, so it's interesting to read about the differnent sailing conditions.
  11. I kept my sprits on the masts on Summer Breeze. Worked well for me. Sails with battens left in went into "sausage" bags and into cabin to lie on a berth. Mizzen was also on a tabernacle.
  12. Hi Rick. Be sure to get in touch when you're over this way. We can do some boating together. Lotsa lakes over here. some small ones with rules against bigger motors, but don't know of any that are only electric that you can live on. I do know of a couple that don't have houses that are electric only. Many great smaller lakes around that have BIG use fees, both annual and daily. I can't afford to go to those. The bigger lakes are free, or inexpensive to launch. Lake Watauga was $2.00/day. Others are $5.00 if not free.
  13. CHICK'S HAPPY HOUR KAYAK BUILD - Post #13 It's DONE ... (maybe) May still paint the interior bottom where I get in, and where my feet rest. Varnish won't hold up there. And then there's always little doo-dads to add. Like drink holder. Clips to store my turtlin' net, etc. Oh, yes, gotta put the name on it. I'm leaning towards "Li'l Squirt".
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