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Posted

Hey y'all. Just a quick update. I've decided to laminate the transverse parts of my hatch coamings rather than try to get a smooth curve on my old, narrow bladed, worn out guides band saw. Besides, It will look kinda cool---er---neat. Guess I'll do the same for the hatches themselves.

 

Don't forget to lay down some packing tape or something on the deck before clamping down the laminations. Ya don't want them stuck down before cleaning 'em up. (I know you old timers know this, but maybe it will save some troubles for a "newbie".)

 

 

post-1823-0-20336700-1446833942_thumb.jpg  Laminations in place.

 

post-1823-0-58890400-1446833943_thumb.jpg  The "old bandsaw".


Posted

Looks awesome! :)

As for the cold, it comes to the Golden State at elevation, and we got elevation, boy. I'm lucky enough to live in a climate convergence zone, of sorts, between the valley and the mountains. We can get both kind of teens, here, the hundred kinds and the zero kinds. Coincidentally, the hot valley floor and cool mountains near make for some pretty amazing wind in the lakes hereabouts.

Most people don't realize how big this state is, though, and how any climates are here.

Shoot, at one end, you got Death Valley, and the other end is rainforest. And tons of mountains in between.

Back to the boat, how do you plan to join your coaming corners? Curiosity is all. Maybe I'm jumping the gun?

Posted

Companionway and forward hatch trim is done. Next will be the hatch runners and hatches.

 

post-1823-0-14343500-1447364566_thumb.jpg    post-1823-0-80813600-1447364567_thumb.jpg  

 

post-1823-0-26796500-1447364569_thumb.jpg    post-1823-0-48868500-1447364570_thumb.jpg

 

Nothing more will get done until Monday. Gonna go to a mini-messabout with the Southern Appalachian Messabouters tomorrow, and family stuff this weekend. Not to mention watching to see our Carolina Panthers hold onto their 9 game winning streak. First time ever that they've done that well!

Posted

Tri color masthead lamps run from about $60 to $400. Guess which seem to last a long time. There's a tri color LED that runs about $150 that seems to be a good mid to upper end piece. The LED will outlive you and it's about as maintenance free as they come. The usual sources Defender, Hamilton, Jamestown all have various brands.

Posted

Thanks for the pics Chick. Storing them away until I get to that point. Also great to see all the pics of Carlita since so much of the 17 seems transferable to the 20, so thanks Graham and Alan. By the end of this week I should have the sides and bottom panels ready to mate. Love progress!! Now, back to the work that earns the money to build the boat...

Posted

Hi Chick, we spent the last 3 days on Southern Express anchored at night and sailing in up to 20 kt, up to 3 ft chop by day, boat did great, but that is getting away from my original comment...... I installed the NASA mast head light on my main mast. The light works good, uses little electricity, good quality and has a good bright light. The light is light weight and only has 2 wires, easy and light weight. You reverse the polarity to select anchor or tri-color. It is about $200, but when you look at what it saves, it isn't so bad. I'll send you a link if you want.

Posted

Thanks Jay. I'll check-it-out. I hate to spend that much, but also have never come up with a really good way to mount lights on the hull that truly meet USCG standards or are convenient. Visibility without being blocked by spars, sails, or getting wrapped in running rigging are typical problems. i don't like so called "clip on" lights. They all seem to be poor quality for one, and are prone to "falling off" in rough weather.

Posted

I've gotten a bit more done on Breezie. The hatch runners are almost finished. The front ends will be incorporated into the forward hatch sea-hood. You'll just have to wait for it. Gotta build the hatches first, then the hood.

 

post-1823-0-78399500-1447792336_thumb.jpg  Side view showing drain slots.

 

post-1823-0-31330300-1447792338_thumb.jpg  Aft view. The top cap is removable to insert the hatches. 

There is an aluminum strip that another strip projecting from the hatch side will slide on.

  • Like 1
Posted

Make the sea hood removable.  It doesn't have to be easy, but at least possible without destruction.

 

Something I did on my Renegade sliding hatch was UHMW plastic bushings for the slides.

 

Looking good.

Posted

Almost done. Just have to add stiffeners to the top and a security lock on drop boards. Oh, yeah, the hood up front. I'll be back with the final pictures next week. Meanwhile, take a look....

 

post-1823-0-37775600-1448041634_thumb.jpg  Hatches closed, drop boards in place.

 

post-1823-0-03963200-1448041636_thumb.jpg  Both hatches slide on the same hatch rails.

 

post-1823-0-88292100-1448041637_thumb.jpg  Companionway hatch open.

 

post-1823-0-87215300-1448041638_thumb.jpg  Forward hatch open.

 

Only one hatch can be open at a time. A "trade-off". I want to be able to open the forward hatch with the masts lowered. Plan is to be able to raise the main mast from the forward hatch, and the hatch wouldn't have room to raise if it was the typical hinged hatch. "Why?" you may ask. I'll need to be able to lower the masts to go under bridges that go over some of the lakes I'll be sailing on. The older I get, the poorer my balance is. I don't wanna have to stand on the deck. Mast raising, sail controls, and anchoring will all be done from the cockpit or forward hatch---I hope.

  • Like 1
Posted

Chick, I'm loving all this R & D on the hatch. Such a great polished design, with that one loose end to personalize! I can't tell, but will you be able to have both hatches open by removing the forward or aft panel? I wonder how our pioneers Jay and Doug are finding their solutions to be and whether standing in the forward hatch is useful for anchor handling, docking, etc. Are you planning on adding handrails along the cabin top like Doug did? BTW, I'm just waiting for the family to wake up to work all day on my cockpit module........The bad part of a basement shop.

  • Like 1
Posted

Steve, thanks. I don't plan on having either hatch removable, but each can be opened half way for ventilation. I don't plan on actual handrails, but will have toe rails for the rare time I'll need to go on deck, such as hanking on the mainsail or removing it. Both done at the boat ramp. There will also be non-skid on the cabin top.

 

I was going to work on the boat a bit this morning before we head out doing family stuff, but it's 30 degrees out there and I'm kinda wimpy about the cold. There's no room to safely run my "torpedo" heater in my little garage. Even if I did, the eaves are open and most of the heat escapes. As you said, "The bad part of a basement (or garage) shop."

Posted

Had to come in outa the cold for awhile, so I might as well post a few pics of the sea-hood. by-the-way, I'm getting the garage re-arranged a bit so I can run my heater---if I can afford the propane...

 

Hatch closed

post-1823-0-50936800-1448314393_thumb.jpg  post-1823-0-97091900-1448314395_thumb.jpg

 

Hatch open

post-1823-0-82943800-1448314394_thumb.jpg  post-1823-0-04154300-1448314397_thumb.jpg

 

Now, back to the shop to work on the "ribs" to stiffen the hatches. They are made of 4mm ply, and need to be re-inforced enough to stand on of necessary.

  • Like 1

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