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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on November 20 2017

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About Pete McCrary

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..

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  1. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Yesterday checked progress on the SS framing bows and hardware. Canvas work starts after this nor'easter ends sometime tomorrow. The Washington area has pretty much shut down (federal government and schools) expecting wind gusts 50 to [even] 70 mph.
  2. A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    A bunch of pieces are now together in 3-D ... Now, turn her over. Centerline cable-tied and ready to open. Viola ... Right-side-up and in her cradle. These gaps were closed with wire pulled much tighter thru a couple of new holes. Photos tomorrow. A centerline photo showing a slight "twist" raising the stbd-top corner of the transom about 1/4" high. Not enough to worry about per Alan. Another view.
  3. A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    Today, Catnip's cradle completed. I've tried to keep it simple. It's made to be clamped (or screwed) to my work table. The table is an ordinary 8' folding table, raised ~ 7" to "workbench" height and with a piece of 3/4" x 30" x 96" plywood added to its top. For this project, I've also added a 1/2" x 44" x 96" pressed-woodchip board. This makes a heavier work table. The cradle is made of a 1 x 8 x 96 "straight back", two lengths of 2 x 4s, and 12mm pressed-woodchip hull-bottom cross-sections. I had planned to use the shipping-crate pressed-woodchip panels -- but they were just 6mm. The assembled cradle weighs in at 18 lbs. The pieces. The setup. Assembled and ready for use. But with a small problem. I made the inside dimension between the hull-bottom cross-sections at 48". However, the cross-sections require bevels: 12 & 10 degrees, forward and aft respectively. The higher (outboard) edges should be separated by 48" per the plans. Relocating the cross-members only requires backing out six 2" dry-wall screws. The height of the cross-section is set at 3.5" (scaled from the plans) which should allow Catnip's bottom (at lowest point) to just touch the straight-back. The slot (and notches) were cut to accempodate the 3/4" keel. Now, the fun part starts.
  4. A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    I can't remember -- it may have been the WoodenBoat Magazine catalog. But with the patent-holder's name and Made-in-England you should be able to find it.
  5. A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    After gluing the Horizontal Beams (PN A5) to the nesting bulkheads (PN 5 & 6), I realized that I hadn't rounded over the lower edge -- and that the beams were too narrow so that I couldn't round them over with a router. Fortunately, I had a pair of tools (seldom used) that can easily trim a 45 degree bevel (on a square) edge from 1/16" to 1/4". Then the [resulting] two 135 degree edges can easily be rounded over with an 80 grit sanding block. The tools are by "Veritas" (with a P label) and stamped "MADE IN ENGLAND." The 4 ends take bites of 1/16", 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4". If the grain is fairly straight, two pulling strokes (on the square edge) using each [successive] width, provides a slightly rounded 1/4" radius bevel. A sanding block does the rest. The top edge of the beams can be rounded over with a hand-held router after the boat is fully assembled. Today I'll place the 3/4" square cardboard spacers on one of the nesting bulkheads with contact cement.
  6. A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    The first glue job is to add stiffener cleats (#A5) to the nesting Blks (##5 & 6). Dry-fitting shown below. Many more clamps (about 16) added for the glueing. The lead weights are just to keep everything flat. Next, the two bulkheads will be bolted together (until the boat is completed) with a dozen or so tiny cardboard spacers lightly glued between (and around) their edges. The spacers will provide a uniform space between the bulkheads just large enough for the saw kerf when the fully assembled boat is finally sawed in half. The bulkhead sides, which will face each other, will have 3 coats of neat epoxy applied at ~ 12 hr intervals. When fully cured, the two bulkheads will be bolted together (in perfect previously indexed alignment) jwith the sacrificial cardboard spacers in place.
  7. A dodger for a Core Sound 20 Mk 3 . .

    That's basically the same advice given [me] by Dave (Potomac Canvas Co), my dodger fabricator. Thanks for the timely comment.
  8. A dodger for a Core Sound 20 Mk 3 . .

    Chessie is at the canvas shop and we have a contract for the dodger. After discussions with Dave, we decided on the following: ^ The canvas will be attached to the coaming with "turn-buttons." The attachment hardware [the male part] will be thrubolted to the edge of the coaming with machine screws, washers, and [on the aft side] acorn nuts. If necessary, they could be removed for repair or repainting the coaming. ^ It will be possible to easily fold the dodger forward to the cabin roof while under sail. To prevent chafing of the canvas and [the] coaming (by the collapsed tubing) chaffing gear will be added to the pressure points. ^ Dave strongly suggested that the dodger not be mounted (even in its collapsed position) while trailering on the highway. He was not confident that a boot could be made that would effectively hold seady and protect the assembly at highway speeds (occasional 70 mph + headwind). Alternatively, he explained that the whole assembly could be easily disassembled. The canvas is attached to the tubbing with zippers, and to the coaming with turn-buttons. And the tubbing assembly is removed with just a pair of pins. To remove the whole assembly -- one needs only to remove two pins and the turn buttons on the coaming. He will make a "dust cover" for the assembly, and it can be stowed in the cabin or cockpit when trailering or [in off season] my garage attic. This will save the cost of a boot made of expensive Sunbrella. ^ We are considering a way to "tension" the dodger when deployed. Usually that's done by attaching the canvas "ear-flaps" to the outside of the cockpit coaming with snaps or other means. We wanted the tension to be adjustable to account for stretching of the canvas over time. To keep the hardware to a minimum I've suggested the following design concept: That's about it for now. Next week I'll approve the fabrication of the tubing and location of trhe webbing guides. After that, the dodger should be completed by sometime in early March. Photos will be posted.
  9. My Core Sound 20 Mk 3 needs a gentle tender. A Graham designed tender (B & B Two Paw 7 kit), should be just-the-thing. The shipping crate arrived last week and has been unpacked and inventoried. All pieces (approximately 50 present and identified)! Here's the packing crate -- ready to open: All pieces laid out in the shop: Alan sent me a dimensional drawing specifing the profiles and positions for a construction cradle: The shipping box will be used for materials. This build will be without any deadlines or target dates. Purely recreational. The forum will be kept posted. Forum members helped name the tender for Chessie. From lots of very good suggestions, "Catnip" came from Steve. Annie and I liked the name and it seemed quite apropo -- so we went with that. Thanks, Steve. PS -- Our kitties, Paige & Lucy also like the name.
  10. This dodger may be the first for a CS20.3. Perhaps Dough or Jay has one for their boats, but I haven't heard of it. I've admired Graham's dodger installed on Carlita, his CS17.3. To me, it seems an essential item for a cruising boat. Here I'll record the details of the modifications required and its installation. Here are a couple of pixs of Carlita's dodger. Graham provided dimensional drawings for a dodger to fit B & B's CS20.3 design. He also sent full-scale drawings (on Mylar) of the coaming pieces and location on the cabin roof and sliding hatch garage. I marked the outlines on 4mm marine ply with carbon paper. Once cut out, they fitted very nicely to the cabin roof. Notice the second laminate is made up of multiple scrap pieces. The position on the cabin roof was marked with an awl through the Mylar pattern. The B & B drawings also specified the angles (130 degrees over the garage and 8 degrees from plumb at the cabin bulkhead (Blk 3). Using these angles, blocking was cut against which the coaming pieces could be held while the thickened epoxy cured. The coaming was held in place near the front with "#6 washer-hex-head 3/4" screws and clamps on the straighter part near Blk 3. The coaming was first "tac-welded" in place. Then the second laminate of 4mm ply was cut and fitted up against the aft side of the first laminate. I didn't have enough large pieces of 4mm, so the second laminate was made up of several scrap pieces, 3 on the port side, and 5 on starboard. After the first laminate was completely glued up and filleted (epoxy cured) -- the second laminate was glued with generous application of thickened epoxy and held in place with all the spring clamps that I had in the shop. The above pix was taken just after the tac-welding had cured. Before applying two coats of neat epoxy I cut the holes for the mast lines coming aft. Three are needed on starboard and two at port. The larger one on the port side is for two reefing downhauls. They share the same deck pulley and cleat because only one line is used at a time. Here are photos of the coaming ready for installation of the dodger. Chessie will be trailered to the canvas shop tomorrow morning. It's my plan to discuss the following features with Dave, the canvas guy. 1. It should be easily folded down to the cabin roof while under sail with some means to keep it from popping up in a gust and/or wave action. 2.. It will need a cover of some sort (in its folded position) in order to (a) keep the sun off it while boat is trailered & stowed in the driveway, and (b) also to secure it [the folded dodger] to the cabin roof while at highway speeds & headwinds. 3. It should not be necessary to disassemble [the whole dodger] for road transport. 4. For off-season boat maintenance purposes, the leading and side ages of the canvas should be attached to the coaming so as to make its removal fairly easy. Maybe attached with "button snaps" or "turn buttons". And the canvas top should be attached to the two SS tubes by means of zippers. I'll post photos of the finished product. And make a report of its usefulness on my scheduled cruise with the Shallow Water Sailors on May 4-6 (their 39th annual cruise on the Chesapeake).
  11. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Just finished the coaming for Chessie's "dodger" -- here are a couple of pixs. Tomorrow Chessie will be towed to the Potomac Canvas Co in Woodbridge, Virginia, to have her dodger installed. I'll start a separate topic to detail the dodger design and installation. Also, last week the B & B kit for a "Two Paw 7" arrived via freight. It was a crate about 4" x 24" x 84" weighting about 100 lbs.. The driver, a very helpful young man, carried it up my 150' driveway and placed it on sawhorses in my garage. I insisted that he accept my $20 expression of gratitude. At the curb I had a small hand truck -- which was inadequate for the purpose. Chessie's tender will be named "Catnip," and I'll start her build on another topic. Catnip was Steve's name suggestion. http://messing-about.com/forums/forum/8-b-amp-b-yachts-forum/
  12. Any interest in a Catspaw build? Also featuring rabbits.

    Pete McCrary here. Yes, I'm very much interested in your Catspaw build. I just received the B & B kit for a Two Paw 7 -- and will start a build on this forum just as soon and I complete the inventory of the kit parts. My Two Paw 7 will be the tender for my CS20.3.
  13. Fire extinguisher recall . .

    The Kidde extinguisher I bought [last year from West Marine] for "Chessie" turns out to be on the recall list. They are sending a replacement in time for this year's cruising season.
  14. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Today I actually started on the "Dodger" coaming. Its shape laid out with carbon paper under the Mylar pattern on 4 mm marking ply. Looks like I need another piece so as to have a laminated 8 mm coaming. I'll glue on each laminate separately. The second laminate will be placed an the aft side [of the 1st] and it should be much easier to glue on. After cutting these out, I'll mark the coaming's location on the cabin roof and garage.
  15. Fire extinguisher recall . .

    Fellow small boaters, alert. Maybe some of you already know this, but a Kidde fire extinguisher may be come useless when eurgently needed. Its plastic handle may break off when you try to activate it. And maybe some other flaws. If you have a Kidde extinguisher, note the year on its bottom and the printed S/Nr on its side and call 855-271-0773 during working hours and they will let you know if it is one that has been recalled. If it is, they will send you a new one and a pre-paid shipping label for return of the faulty one. They will properly dispose of the old one. Here's a photo of mine. There's more Info on this web page: https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2017/kidde-recalls-fire-extinguishers-with-plastic-handles-due-to-failure-to-discharge-and John Zohlen of the Shallow Water Sailors alerted me to this recall.