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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on November 20 2017

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About Pete McCrary

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..

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  1. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Well, it's been two months. Lots has happened. New stowage for gasoline. I had a gas-stowage rack inside the port hatch. I didn't like that because of the potential hazard and the hatch always had a slight gas smell. So I fabricated two racks to go under the mizzen partner. They each sit on the mizzen step and two 3/4" feet -- allowing footwell drainage under them. A shallow arc (1.5" radius) is cut into the inboard edges to fit against the mizzen [stepping] tube -- which keeps them firmly inplace. I can stow up to 9 one-liter plastic cans. If I take less cans, I can also keep two one-liter water bottles within easy reach from the helm. View from aft. view from forward. On my way to the early May cruise with the Shallow Water Sailors Chessie and trailer was weighed. The two numbers represent just the axle and the axle and the tongue. That's a tongue weight of 220 lbs. A bit too much for my Tacoma. I'll move the boat back a little -- aiming for about 180 lbs. By-the-way, the 2040 weight was with all cruising equipment. In another posting I'll give you the trailer-alone weight. On Memorial Day weekend we had a mini cruise to the Hartge Yach Haven (Galesville, MD on the West River). That's where I learned to sail at age 15 while washing dishes ($5 a week and all the sailing that I wanted between meals) at the YMCA Camp Letts. My son Jim and daughter-in-law Patricia joined Annie and me for the Sunday sail and potluck dinner. Photos show Jim on Chessie's bunk and the cabin's sitting head-room. On Monday am (Memorial Day) I had to motor from the Yacht Haven to the ramp at Back Yard Boats in Shady Side, about 4 nm. The sails were in their bags and stowed the night before on the port side of the cockpit. But we had lots of rain during the night, and because it was quite windy and I didn't have a good way to secure them in the cockpit, while motoring to the ramp, I decided to stow them in the cabin where they would need to be placed when trailering. What a wet mess in the cabin when Chessie was finally parked in the driveway. Next time I will transport (water or highway) the sails on the cockpit port-side seats -- like shown in the next photo: The sail bags will be firmly held to the seat with a line (hard to see because the line is red like the sail bags. The line loops under the mizzen partner and temporarily clamped to the coaming. For hold downs I will drill two holes next to the openings in the coaming. Their locations will be where the clamps are in the photos below. The forward tie down hole. The aft hole location. 3/4" holes just at the end of the clamps. The 3.5 Tohatsu ran just fine for each cruise. But on her next outing she wouldn't start! Turned out to be bad gas. The stabilizer label says it's good for two years. But the Tohatsu dealer told me not to trust it for more than a month or so. I'll follow his advice.
  2. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    No. British Racing green.
  3. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    The port-side gunwale trimmed: Also the LWL is marked. Next I'll do the tac welding. I'm tenatively planning to paint the bottom (all below the LWL) red, topsides & gunwales finished "bright," and all else battleship gray.
  4. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    My Annie helped as a holder while I applied thickened epoxy to 5 surfaces of the laminates and the edge of the sheer. A total of 5 sq.ft. One mix of 3 squirts of epoxy and fixer (each) was just enough (w/ a little left) for one side. Shop temp was 50 degrees F. The whole (port-side) job, including cleanup, took 70 minutes. The starboard side took only 50 minutes. Here are photos showing three port-side laminates ready for thickened epoxy. The viscosity was a little more soupy than mayonnaise. And then both sides all clamped up. Notice the faux transom braces fore & aft. Tomorrow I'll put the clamps away, cleanup, and put Catnip away while getting Chessie ready for the sailing season.
  5. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    I'm getting ready to glue on the gunwales. I decided to use faux transom braces so that there would be a solid purchase into which to screw the gunwales, fore & aft. The photoes show packaging tape on the ends of each brace. The bevels (matching the extension of the sheer lines) were easily cut with a hand saw before dry-fitting the gunwales. The bow transom brace and closeup of the starboard-side interface: The transom brace and port-side intersection: On the starboard-side closeup you can see where the laminates are bolted together. After breaking her wrist [ice storm Dec 2016] my Annie doesn't have the hand strength to be my mixer. So, I'll have to mix and spread thickened epoxy all myself. I'm going to take advantage of the next few days which should be fairly cold. That should give me a little more "pot life" for the epoxy job. Annie will be able to hold up the aft end as I start the glueing and screwing from the bow.
  6. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Chessie now has her Dodger and is tucked snugly away in her garage just as Virginia gets ready for the last [hopefu;;y] snow on the 2nd day of spring. Just before Dave (Potomac Canvas Co.) started cutting canvas, I stood under the dry-fitted tubing and decided that the headroom [under to tubing] wouldn't be enough for me to stand in the companionway and comfortably use a hand-held urinal. So I asked Dave if he could cut me a "zippered" opening in the top that would give me unlimited headroom while standing on the cabin sole. He wouldn't guarantee it to be waterproof, but we decided that it would resist all but the hardest rain. And if the companionway hatch is closed, leaking wouldn't matter anyway. And, after final assembly, we discovered another reason to have the opening. It allows for deployment / stowage of the Dodger while on the water. I suppose that will be occasionally useful, but for the most part I'll probably sail with the Dodger deployed. I'll discover if that's the case during this summer's cruising season. Dave originally didn't recommend that the Dodger (even in stowed position) be on the cabin roof while trailering on the highway. But he made a "dust cover" for me anyway. And seeing how well it's secured on the cabin roof, he thought highway travel would be OK. In fact I hit 60 to 70 mph while trailering her home from the canvas shop without any problems. Here are a few photos: The planned "sky-light": The next two photos show the "Boot" -- which we originally called just a "dust cover": The black item is simply a piece of pipe insulation slipped over the leading edge as "chafe" protection where the canvas and tubing rest on the dodger's coaming. Entrance / exit thru the companionway hatch is slightly impeded when Dodger in stowed position.. View from the starboard-side helmsman position. I'd say the view is not significantly impeded. Skylight open and rolled up. View from aft, starboard and port. View from forward and closeup of attachment hardware. Once folded and in the "boot" the whole thing can be removed by just lining up the retainers and pulling the pins. Later, I'll post the weight of the whole thing. NOTICE the wrinkles in the top. They will be "tensioned" out when Dave sends me the "tensioning" straps which will pull the top "tight" with extra leverage much more so than the little bungee cords on the ear-flaps. The first straps wouldn't release easily. By-the-way: The skylight allows one to reach all the turn-buttons while standing on the cabin sole. Absent that feature, deployment and stowage would have to be made on shore before launch. With the skylight open -- I can launch with the Dodger in its boot and strapped to the cabin roof for road transport. Perhaps not deployed at all during a day-sail, or only at anchor (on an overnight cruise).
  7. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Yesterday checked progress on the SS framing bows and hardware. Canvas work starts after this nor'easter ends sometime tomorrow. The Washington area has pretty much shut down (federal government and schools) expecting wind gusts 50 to [even] 70 mph.
  8. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    A bunch of pieces are now together in 3-D ... Now, turn her over. Centerline cable-tied and ready to open. Viola ... Right-side-up and in her cradle. These gaps were closed with wire pulled much tighter thru a couple of new holes. Photos tomorrow. A centerline photo showing a slight "twist" raising the stbd-top corner of the transom about 1/4" high. Not enough to worry about per Alan. Another view.
  9. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    Today, Catnip's cradle completed. I've tried to keep it simple. It's made to be clamped (or screwed) to my work table. The table is an ordinary 8' folding table, raised ~ 7" to "workbench" height and with a piece of 3/4" x 30" x 96" plywood added to its top. For this project, I've also added a 1/2" x 44" x 96" pressed-woodchip board. This makes a heavier work table. The cradle is made of a 1 x 8 x 96 "straight back", two lengths of 2 x 4s, and 12mm pressed-woodchip hull-bottom cross-sections. I had planned to use the shipping-crate pressed-woodchip panels -- but they were just 6mm. The assembled cradle weighs in at 18 lbs. The pieces. The setup. Assembled and ready for use. But with a small problem. I made the inside dimension between the hull-bottom cross-sections at 48". However, the cross-sections require bevels: 12 & 10 degrees, forward and aft respectively. The higher (outboard) edges should be separated by 48" per the plans. Relocating the cross-members only requires backing out six 2" dry-wall screws. The height of the cross-section is set at 3.5" (scaled from the plans) which should allow Catnip's bottom (at lowest point) to just touch the straight-back. The slot (and notches) were cut to accempodate the 3/4" keel. Now, the fun part starts.
  10. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    I can't remember -- it may have been the WoodenBoat Magazine catalog. But with the patent-holder's name and Made-in-England you should be able to find it.
  11. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    After gluing the Horizontal Beams (PN A5) to the nesting bulkheads (PN 5 & 6), I realized that I hadn't rounded over the lower edge -- and that the beams were too narrow so that I couldn't round them over with a router. Fortunately, I had a pair of tools (seldom used) that can easily trim a 45 degree bevel (on a square) edge from 1/16" to 1/4". Then the [resulting] two 135 degree edges can easily be rounded over with an 80 grit sanding block. The tools are by "Veritas" (with a P label) and stamped "MADE IN ENGLAND." The 4 ends take bites of 1/16", 1/8", 3/16", and 1/4". If the grain is fairly straight, two pulling strokes (on the square edge) using each [successive] width, provides a slightly rounded 1/4" radius bevel. A sanding block does the rest. The top edge of the beams can be rounded over with a hand-held router after the boat is fully assembled. Today I'll place the 3/4" square cardboard spacers on one of the nesting bulkheads with contact cement.
  12. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    The first glue job is to add stiffener cleats (#A5) to the nesting Blks (##5 & 6). Dry-fitting shown below. Many more clamps (about 16) added for the glueing. The lead weights are just to keep everything flat. Next, the two bulkheads will be bolted together (until the boat is completed) with a dozen or so tiny cardboard spacers lightly glued between (and around) their edges. The spacers will provide a uniform space between the bulkheads just large enough for the saw kerf when the fully assembled boat is finally sawed in half. The bulkhead sides, which will face each other, will have 3 coats of neat epoxy applied at ~ 12 hr intervals. When fully cured, the two bulkheads will be bolted together (in perfect previously indexed alignment) jwith the sacrificial cardboard spacers in place.
  13. Pete McCrary

    A dodger for a Core Sound 20 Mk 3 . .

    That's basically the same advice given [me] by Dave (Potomac Canvas Co), my dodger fabricator. Thanks for the timely comment.
  14. Pete McCrary

    A dodger for a Core Sound 20 Mk 3 . .

    Chessie is at the canvas shop and we have a contract for the dodger. After discussions with Dave, we decided on the following: ^ The canvas will be attached to the coaming with "turn-buttons." The attachment hardware [the male part] will be thrubolted to the edge of the coaming with machine screws, washers, and [on the aft side] acorn nuts. If necessary, they could be removed for repair or repainting the coaming. ^ It will be possible to easily fold the dodger forward to the cabin roof while under sail. To prevent chafing of the canvas and [the] coaming (by the collapsed tubing) chaffing gear will be added to the pressure points. ^ Dave strongly suggested that the dodger not be mounted (even in its collapsed position) while trailering on the highway. He was not confident that a boot could be made that would effectively hold seady and protect the assembly at highway speeds (occasional 70 mph + headwind). Alternatively, he explained that the whole assembly could be easily disassembled. The canvas is attached to the tubbing with zippers, and to the coaming with turn-buttons. And the tubbing assembly is removed with just a pair of pins. To remove the whole assembly -- one needs only to remove two pins and the turn buttons on the coaming. He will make a "dust cover" for the assembly, and it can be stowed in the cabin or cockpit when trailering or [in off season] my garage attic. This will save the cost of a boot made of expensive Sunbrella. ^ We are considering a way to "tension" the dodger when deployed. Usually that's done by attaching the canvas "ear-flaps" to the outside of the cockpit coaming with snaps or other means. We wanted the tension to be adjustable to account for stretching of the canvas over time. To keep the hardware to a minimum I've suggested the following design concept: That's about it for now. Next week I'll approve the fabrication of the tubing and location of trhe webbing guides. After that, the dodger should be completed by sometime in early March. Photos will be posted.
  15. My Core Sound 20 Mk 3 needs a gentle tender. A Graham designed tender (B & B Two Paw 7 kit), should be just-the-thing. The shipping crate arrived last week and has been unpacked and inventoried. All pieces (approximately 50 present and identified)! Here's the packing crate -- ready to open: All pieces laid out in the shop: Alan sent me a dimensional drawing specifing the profiles and positions for a construction cradle: The shipping box will be used for materials. This build will be without any deadlines or target dates. Purely recreational. The forum will be kept posted. Forum members helped name the tender for Chessie. From lots of very good suggestions, "Catnip" came from Steve. Annie and I liked the name and it seemed quite apropo -- so we went with that. Thanks, Steve. PS -- Our kitties, Paige & Lucy also like the name.

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