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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on July 31

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About Pete McCrary

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..
  • Supporting Member Since
    09/13/2019

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  1. I thought of solid or hollow back half oval OR “flat” stock, brass or ss. But I wanted a 5/8” x 1/8” it to cover the 3/4” yellow pine keel for Seabiscuit, my Spindrift 10. Hard to find and too expensive. So, I’m going with a white oak 5/8” x 1/8” (maybe 5/32”?) cut from a 3/4” quarter-round 8’ molding purchased from Lowes. The yellow pine keel strip will be glued in place, and the white oak strip bedded (on its top) with 5/8” x #8 SS FHWS counter-sunk (flush) at 6” spacing. If it gets torn up, I’ll just replace it. The 8’ molding cost $9.44. Might even get two strips out of t
  2. Graham may be glad to know that her weight (measured at ~ 89.5 lbs) is right in line at the high-end of his design estimate. Configuration: outside surfaces bare, all interior flotation spaces & corners filleted, taped and triple-coated with neat epoxy; gunwales, foredeck, breasthook & quarter knees glued in place; and CB trunk glued in place, filleted, and taped. Seat tops attached (dry-fitted). CB Trunk filleted, glassed,.. firmly in place. Seat tops dry-fitted. There will be dry-wall screws between the weights. A Taylor “spring” scale
  3. CB Trunk’s base has been trimmed to fit the slight v-bottom — and tac-welded in place. Proper filleting and FG tape to follow. Earlier the foredeck framework, quarter knees, and more seat cleats were glued in place. And finally, the Bresthook and bow-reinforcement block were installed. Both have 1/2” holes drilled thru. With a bowline loop and a “stop-knot” — one line can serve as a bow-“eye” and painter as shown here. Turnover is scheduled for Saturday!
  4. Looks like Puddle Duck has a very nice sailing pond. You’re lucky they allow sailing on the reservoir. Please come and visit. We’re nearly always here. Just email pkmccrary@verizon.net so we won’t be out-‘n-about. Here are two more photos of Seabiscuit progress. Glueing the inboard seat cleats. Third coat of epoxy on the insides of the CB trunk w/Kingposts being glued on.
  5. Dry-fitting seat supports. The long outboard cleats need some “persuading” in order to conform to the extra bending of the side panels near the bow. And also along their entire length. The inboard seat supports also needed to be pushed outward to so as to be just under the seats’ edges. My plan is to round over the seat edges to a radius of 3/8”. Glue outboard seat supports tomorrow — inboards next day. For gluing (Seat supports) the seat tops wI’ll be removed until the CB trunk has been fully assembled and permanently glued in
  6. Also with trailered boats — all spars, oars, etc. within the hull.
  7. Correct me if I’m wrong — but isn’t the just-described (Alan’s 10/3/2018) for permanently attaching tubes for a not-to-be-disassembled mast? Inappropriate for a Spindrift 10 three-part mast?
  8. To get her DWL level, I had to raise the fwd cradle 3/4”. Used a mason’s string level. Rounded the fwd rub-rail. Note taut string. Getting her ready for filleting. Seat tops now joined.
  9. Major milestone reached — gunwales installed. And she’s just about ready for tac-welding. When dry-fitting I managed to trim the gunwale foreword ends for a nice joint. That sharp point will be rounded to spread stresses caused by encounters with docks, other boats, et cetera.
  10. Thank you, one and all. I’ll get started with confidence.
  11. I just reviewed Alan’s video on mast bushings where he used 29” of FG 3” tape (cut to 1.5” for the lower bushing) — to increase the 2” od tube up to the id of the 2.25” (bigger tube) — an increase of just 0.125”. That’s in fairly close agreement with my calculation of 5.333... wraps, assuming FG thickness measurement of 4 layers at 3/64”, or 2 layers = 0.0234375” (one wrapping) and ignoring epoxy effects. Five.333... wraps on a 2” od would be about 33.5”. But I’m going to go with Alan’s 29” — which is just 87% of my calculation and thickness assumptions. My calculation for the 1.
  12. Originally I ripped a pair of 1-piece gunwales (Douglas fir) — but they were much too stiff to dry-fit to the sheer. So, using those pieces, I ripped two 1/4” strips (wasting the middle third) and bought 1/4” x 1.5” [flat] moldings (clear white pine) for the middle strips. Shown here are the assembled strips dry-fitted to the sheers. Next cooler day, they’ll be glued to the sheers. Anticipating some considerable stress on the stem and transom joints, I made strong tac welds. Tac welds at the transom. Next I fabricated the rudder pi
  13. Well, ... after about three days curing (the puzzle joints), Corey (my future grandson-in-law) and I transformed a stack of flat plywood into the shape of a fine-looking boat. Here we are just getting started with granddaughter Kate recording. Corey and I started the process. Fwd and temporary bulkheads dry-fitted. Corey doing the hard work — tightening up the loosely wired keel. Fore and aft views. Temporary bulkhead set with side planks just 1/16” proud on each side. Side-to-side transom top almost paral
  14. Got a lot done today. Rudder assembly ready for glueing. Three inch FG tape epoxied to both sides of each puzzle joint — and weave filled. After an overnight cure the panels were adjusted so that the inboard sides laid face-to-face, continued the keel bevel from the bottom edges right up the stem. With all holes lined up, loosely wired the keel edges together. Then stood it all up to make room for the cradle. Tomorrow the cradle will be fine tuned and screwed to the floor. Mr granddaughter and her fiancé (Kate & Corey) will arri
  15. Thanks Graham. You probably told me that back in 2016.
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