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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on July 8

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About Pete McCrary

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..
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  1. Twice weekly Physical Therapy is working miracles -- plus daily exercises. Just signed up for the MessAbout -- tentatively arriving Friday with Chessie, leaving Sunday am. I also hope to bring her tender, "Catnip," a Two Paw 7 dinghy. I"ll be making both available for inspections and tryouts for anybody interested. Here are a few pixs: Raising the main mast. Note that [when separated] "Catnip," her tender, will fit in the cockpit for road transport. Catnip showing her "all-around" bumper. Here she's nested. Ready for her "maiden" voyage on the Chester River, Maryland. Hope to see you all at the MessAbout! ?? keeping fingers crossed ??
  2. Thanks, Steve. I'm making progress and will let you know how the knee goes.
  3. Thanks, Todd, for the kind words and offer to crew. Progress report: Yesterday Dr injected cortisone into the knee joint. PT evaluation Monday. Improvement already. Although I'm not likely to bring Chessie, I'm hoping to come to the MessAbout by means of AmTrak (free 1st class) RT transport from Quantico, VA to ?? in NC -- car rental and stay at Bayboro House Hotel. Hope to see you all then.
  4. Thanks, Steve, for the offer. We'll see how the recovery goes. Hope for the best.
  5. Count me (and Chessie) OUT for the MASCF. Working up, down, over, under, into, and around Chessie has caused a minisca tear and/or sprained right knee that worsened this am to the point that I can't put any weight on the knee. The orthopedist injected cortisone for some immediate relief -- but I'll be on a walker and physical therapy for the next 4 to 6 weeks. Hopefully may avoid surgery. I'm determined to faithfully follow orders of the doctor and his therapist to reach full recovery -- so don't count me out for the next season. I'll also probably have to stay home for the Messabout.
  6. My trailer for Chessie (a CS20.3 #4) had three keel rollers and a pair of side bunks balancing the boat. Chessie's weight was about 1,400 lbs -- which included OBM & 9.5 liters fuel, sailing & cruising equipment (including about 7 gallons of fresh water in coolers and bladders), spars & sails, and a Two Paw 7 dinghy. Almost all the weight was carried on the three hard-rubber rollers -- which, over time, suffered damage, becoming out-of-round, and not "rolling" as they should. Inspired by Graham's "roller" design, I made a wooden "V-trough" -- which worked quite well for a launch or two. However, the concept didn't work out, mainly because the friction built up after a few road trips. Inspection showed buildup of considerable road debris in the trough. So, I decided to make a roller trough copying Graham's concept -- substituting 5" rollers commercially available instead of rollers made from 3" PVC pipe. Here are the details: Shown here is a pattern board cut with the keel offsets provided by B&B specifically for the CS20.3 keel, indexed to the forward edge of the CB slot. Chessie was lifted off [of her trailer] and the pattern board was place next to the keel [and located with respect to the CB slot] and the "as-built" keel profile was scribed -- which is shown on the next photo. Then 13 small holes were drilled at the scrib marks at each roller location on the pattern board. The board was placed on one of "cheek" boards [of the trough] and located so that the lowest roller would just clear the trough's bottom frame while the 1st and 13th roller axles were equal distant from the top edge of the cheek pieces. The axle locations were then marked with an awl -- no measurement transfers required. The two cheek planks were clamped together and the drill press rigged to drill thirteen pairs of 5/8" axle holes simultaneously. Design concept with cost data. Rollers and SS hardware. Assembled and installed. The cheeks are held to the frame bottom with 1/4" x 2" hot dipped lag bolts on 8" centers. In order to help "channel" the boat's stem for recovery, guide boards are placed between the bunks and the trough. Also shown here is the aft end of the CB "catcher" raised over the port-side guide board. Now, if the skipper forgets to raise the CB (for launch or recovery) the board will simply slide over the board. This is the position of the boat for the final "sea-trial" launch (video below). There were three previous launches -- after which adjustment were made. IMG_2088.mp4 This was the position of the trailer at recovery. The first launches went fairly well, but the recoveries required [I thought] too much cranking effort. So, I made adjustments to the bunks so that they carried much less weight. That helped reduce the cranking effort substantially. Further adjustments may be required. Originally, all rollers except #6 were in contact with the keel. After reducing the load on the bunks -- all rollers (including #6) now contract the keel. I think it's fair to say that the dynamic load on each roller has be reduced substantially -- from almost 500 lbs per roller to about 110 lbs, a factor of more than 4. The next three photos shows my method of preventing the boat from rolling off the trailer unexpectedly.
  7. I think the reefing lines should be deployed for any significant sailing, especially if overnight. For the sails' foot I keep the sails bent to their sprits with the reefing lines reeved -- then bag the sail, sprit, and reefing lines all together. Separate bags for mizzen and main. Both transported on the port-side cockpit seat. For the main reefing downhauls I leave them reeved through the pulleys attached to the hooks that will be hooked thru their luff cringules (sp?) when bending the m'sail. For transport I let them hang over Blk#1 (into the anchor well -- their weight keeps them in the well) with their lines passed aft thru bulls-eyes to a cleat at the aft edge of the cabin roof. The downhauls can be trimmed from the cockpit. The reefing lines for the foot can also be trimmed from the cockpit, but to do so I had to move their cleats near the aft end of the sprit. I'm amazed at your setup time. It takes me about 1.5 hours for Chessie! Maybe it's my senior status?
  8. To close out this topic I should report that the concept was a good one -- EXCEPT that the trough material that I used was not up to the task. The keel's SS half-oval was too much pressure on the epoxy covered soft wood. Also, the friction increased with use -- probably due to gradual collection of road debrie. I could see no practical way to prevent it. My solution was to fabricate a 12' U-Beam wooden trough with thirteen 5" x 3"-- diameter rollers based on a design suggested by Graham. I've documented its construction and proof-of-concep on "Chessie's" build. I think it's a superior solution to the problem of launching, recovery, and highway transport of a 1500 pound boat supported by only a few [like just 3] rollers.
  9. The Roller Trough design (by Graham) was proved today to be practical and effective. I'm convinced it's a huge improvement over the three-roller concept. Measuring the keel heights above the fore and aft cross supports as existed for the previous setup -- I fabricated new supports so that the tops of the rollers would support the keel at the same heights. Those heights needed to be duplicated so that the bunks would not need adjustment. In the first photo Chessie is being lowered onto the keel rollers. The trough is supported only at each end. The u-beam is so stiff that there is little flexing. My weight (~ 187 lbs) on the beam (over the mid-crossbeam closed the 3/8" gap (between the bottom of the trough and that crossbeam) by only ~ 1/8". Chessie rolled right off her trailer without any assistance. In fact she started her roll while I was still in the pickup -- but was restrained by a device for that very purpose (see next three photos). Water was over the wheel hubs this time. Next time I'll launch and recover with the top of aft roller just at the water's surface. The force needed to crank the winch was much reduced. With both the winch hook and safety chain released -- I was concerned that the boat could just roll off the trailer before it should. And if I kept either engaged, there could be such tension that would make disengagement difficult or impossible. So I fashioned the line shown above that can be released even if under stress. By pulling on the release pin of the snap shackle. And the released loop slides thru the bow eye as Chessie rolls into the river. The Roller Trough is a very nice concept and design by Graham Byrnes. Many thanks to our designer. FOLLOW UP EDIT Morning-after inspection reveals: 1. That after a launch and recovery and a 30 mile shake-down road trip -- Chessie settled into the Roller Trough nicely so that now her keel is in contact with all rollers EXCEPT #6 (just one position from the center roller which is just over the mid-crossbar). I think that the load is spread over 12 of the 13 rollers as well as the three cross bars. Chessie's ride on the highway should be much easier on her keel. Maybe, after a time, the keel roller system will settle down a bit and #6 may eventually also be in contact with the keel. 2. There are no hold-down fasteners at the mid-crossbar. However it shares in the load. 3. You can see no space at the aft end of the support and the trough at the mid-crossbar. The aft edge of the support is rounded to lower the load concentration. Later, I may fabricate a wedge to spread the load further. 4. The forward roller. The crossbeam (a pair of 2 x 6s) showed slightly more deflection when under load. 5. The aft roller. The trough is held to fore & aft the cross bars with a pair of 1/4" hot-dipped lag bolts at each end.
  10. Assembly and mounting the Roller Trough on the trailer took all day and a half. Sides carriage-bolted on and hardware ready. Assembly complete. The sides pinched inward slightly in a couple of places. Spacers took care of that. They all roll nice and easy. Dry fitted to the trailer. I tried to match the height to doplicate the previous setup so that the bunks won't need much, if any, adjustments. Notice that there's no support at the mid-cross bar. There's about a half-inch space -- which reduced about half when I put my 190 lb self on it. With the keel being ridged and the load spread over 13 rollers I'm hoping that I can leave it "free floating" at the mid-bar -- which may actually cushion the ride slightly. Tomorrow we'll see if Chessie will properly fit the Roller Trough. Stay tuned.
  11. Remember that the bottom tread on the reboarding ladder would float, requiring the reboarder to hold it under water while placing his foot on it. Well, I took care of that with a lead weight cast in a cornbread cast iron backing skillet. Hope my volume and density calculations work out OK. This morning we lifted Chessie and pulled the trailer out of the way and scribed her keel as-built profile onto the pattern board. The keel batten wasn't prominent enough to clamp the board to it -- so two helpers held it against the keel batten while I scribed the profile. Here's the result. Note how close the as-built line follows the design [edge of the board]. On the line scribed on the pattern board 5/64" holes were drilled on 11 3/4" centers. Then, with the pattern board laid on one of the trough's sides -- an awl was used to transfer the profile directly to the side board. Then the top of the board was trimmed so that the boat's bottom would clear the edge for the lowers rollers. After rounding over edges, both side boards were clamped together in preparation for drilling the 5/8" shaft holes. Here you can see the bolt's hex-heads in a fair line along the pair of boards. All fabrication is finished. Tomorrow assembly and fitting the Roller Trough to the trailer -- and maybe proof-of-concept launch. But that will probably be on Thursday. Report and video promised.
  12. Tomorrow (8/27/2019) Chessie goes to the boat yard and will be lifted off her trailer to have her "as-built" keel profile transferred to a pattern board. I plan to leave Chessie at the yard and bring the trailer back to the shop for transferring the keel pattern to the trough sides. Each pair of holes (5/8" for the roller shafts) will be drilled simultaneously thru the trough sides. The shop is ready for the job. Rough 12' pattern board with ends supported. The trough sides will be clamped together assuring identical spacing [of the hole pairs]. Weight of all the hardware is 29 lbs. The wood pieces 46 lbs.. Total 75 lbs. I'll try to get some good photos of the profile tracing process and assembly procedure. Might have a "proof of concept" launch by week's end.
  13. Mark, I just remembered that I hadn't answered your questions. So,... The Suzuki was a 2.5 regular length (15") shaft and it fit nicely into the cockpit locker -- but not an easy task for an 85 yr old. I made a "cradle" for it in order to keep its tiller-down as recommend by Suzuki. Otherwise you'll get oil into the cylinder chamber. The 2.5 hp is enough to push the CS20.3 to 5 knots. The wash plate just cleared the bottom of the transom which allowed 360 degree rotation (for reverse). However, in chop or big wake, there was often cavitation. I now have a 4 hp Honda (long shaft) with a reverse gear and 9 amp alternator to keep the battery fully charged -- because as a solo sailor I often use a tiller-pilot which draws fairly heavily on the battery. I still have the Suzuki as a standby. The well is 9" fore & aft x 10". Its depth is 5" at the transom sloping up to about 1" at the forward edge. The transom cutout is about 1" deep and the top-aft edge of the engine mounting block (~ 1.5" thick) is 5" from the transom. It needed to be that far out because the transom has a forward tilt and the Suzuki's shaft is already set at ~ 5 degrees out from a vertical transom (I think Suzuki assumes that most transom have a slight aft tilt). So, in order to keep the OBM shaft vertical, the mounting block is set at about 10 degrees with respect to the transom.
  14. Don, I'll definitely take you up on sailing your BRS 15 at the Messabout in October. I plan to be there showing off Chessie -- hoping to impress potential buyers who may want a CS20.3 without investing two years of sanding and poxy work.
  15. Nick, the end roller will be a 5" one like the others. There will be guide-ons on each side reaching out to the bunks. It will look something like this: The roller trough will end about 6" aft of the trailer's aft crossbeam. It hasn't been a problem lining up the boat's stem with the trough centerline. BTW, I've found the wooden trough gets torn up by the ss oh wood screws that attach the 3/4" half oval to the keel batten. Here's the link to the wooden trough build. The concept worked just fine until after a few launches and recoveries. That's why I'm building the roller trough.
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