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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on April 24 2021

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About Pete McCrary

  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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    Male
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    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..
  • Supporting Member Since
    09/13/2019

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  1. I believe it wouldn’t have split if that board had been assembled with the growth rings curving upwards rather than as shown. If I remember correctly, the aging and moisture cause wooden boards to “cup” opposite to the rings. That would have the bolts pressuring in the same direction — rather than in opposition as in this case.
  2. Don — I just added another note to the roller posting. Here’s the text: Now, more than 2 years later, I recall a couple of things that I didn’t mention or would do differently. First, I didn’t glue the side cheeks to the trough bottom. That would have been a lot of trouble and I worried about how “pressure treated” lumber would react to epoxy as a binder. So I just went with the lag bolts. But after the first season I think they should be re-torqued. Second, I worried that the side cheeks (not perfectly quarter-sawed) would “curl” inward and pinch the rollers. I thought I would position the cheeks so that with time & moisture I could orient the growth rings such that the natural curl (of the plank) would be outward — but I didn’t know which way (it would curl). So, I assembled the cheeks without regard to the grain. However, I later thought of another way to take care of the concern. When trimming the bottom board’s edges — set the table saw to cut a slight bevel, about 1 or 2 degrees outward. Then when installing the roller-axel assemblies, clamp the side cheeks inward when inserting the axels — slightly stressing the side cheeks together. By the way, I didn’t weigh the assembled trough with rollers, but it was heavy — difficult for me to lift. Mt guess, about 50 lbs.
  3. Now, more than 2 years later, I recall a couple of things that I didn’t mention or would do differently. First, I didn’t glue the side cheeks to the trough bottom. That would have been a lot of trouble and I worried about how “pressure treated” lumber would react to epoxy as a binder. So I just went with the lag bolts. But after the first season I think they should be re-torqued. Second, I worried that the side cheeks (not perfectly quarter-sawed) would “curl” inward and pinch the rollers. I thought I would position the cheeks so that with time & moisture I could orient the growth rings such that the natural curl (of the plank) would be outward — but I didn’t know which way (it would curl). So, I assembled the cheeks without regard to the grain. However, I later thought of another way to take care of the concern. When trimming the bottom board’s edges — set the table saw to cut a slight bevel, about 1 or 2 degrees outward. Then when installing the roller-axel assemblies, clamp the side cheeks inward when inserting the axels — slightly stressing the side cheeks together. By the way, I didn’t weigh the assembled trough with rollers, but it was heavy — difficult for me to lift. Mt guess, about 50 lbs.
  4. The system worked fine for me. At the start Alan sent me the profile of the keel rocker relative to the DWL (or some other horizontal) and one end of the CB slott. I transferred that data to a 12’ long 1 x 6 (or maybe a 1 x eight) and I cut along that line. Then I trailed to a yard where they had a lift and raised boat off the trailer. Then with two helpers holding the as-designed cut profile up against the keel (helpers careful not to bend (the 1 x as-designed board)) — I marked the “as-built” keel profile right alongside the cut as-designed cut profile. Then the as-built profile was transferred to a trough side board that would anchor the 13 roller axels. The transfer was not done by measuring — but directly by drilling small holes thru the 1x as-built line that I had marked on the 1 x as-designed board. The two trough side boards were firmly clamped together so that the 13 pair of axel holes were simultaneously drilled with a 1/2” Forrester bit. After fabricating the roller trough and the the boat was set back on the trailer in its trailering position — the keel rested on all 13 rollers at least firm enough so that you couldn’t move (i.e., roll) any of the rollers by firm finger pressure. I sold Chessie to Erik (Now we do it my way) — he could tell you how it has held up.
  5. In my opinion, even a mast as slender and light (~ 22 lbs) as the main on our CS20.3, shouldn't be raised or lowered except on the tarmac or in very protected waters with enforced "no-wake" speed limits. A silent & surprise wake or wave at just the "wrong" moment can cause disaster -- severely damaging the mast-tabernacle assembly and injuring crew! A neighbor sailing friend had just that happen to him. He wasn't hurt, but there was expensive damage to his Eclipse. I struggled to raise/lower Chessie's mast solo -- and finally worked out a method that was within my aging strength. See my Pg 34 post dated July 31, 2017. I have occasionally lowered the main mast while on the water, but only in the early morning at a slip in very light or no wind conditions. I know others do it, but it's risky. Getting it done quickly, of course, lowers the risk of a momentary upset. But if you could predict the unexpected -- it wouldn't be unexpected!
  6. Have a look at my June 26 post and following posts on page 7 of my Seabiscuit build at Don't know why that boat pix keeps showing up when I past the link to my Seabiscuitbuild ?? . .
  7. Here’s an audio and sheet music for the “Recall” bugle call: https://www.bands.army.mil/music/buglecalls/recall.asp
  8. I believe that conversion of the sail for a laced luff is the solution to this very real problem. See my postings at page 7 of my Seabiscuit (a Spindrift 10) at: Although I’m selling Seabiscuit, I’m very satisfied with the inexpensive (< $300) modification to the sleeved luff.
  9. Thank you Graham. I'm hoping to make the trip. October's a busy month with the MASCF in Saint Michaels and a 65th VMI reunion right after that. Probably skip the Mid-Atlantic and make it to Bayboro. We'll see. Presently waiting out this hot spell, then get used to the Peep Hen (named "Recall" after the army bugle call.
  10. Hay, guys. Go for my 10 foot Seabiscuit. All spars, including the 3-piece, tapered mast, oars, rudder, and CB all fit in the boat for road transport or towing on the water. Hull (alone) just weighs 100 lbs. And with the modified laced luff, reefing is very easy. So also is raising/ lowering the sail and furling it. Mast, boom, sail & lines all fit in a zippered Sunbrella cover. For forum members I’d offer a nice discount.
  11. Thank you, Dave. I'm accepting delivery on Thursday. I'll let you how she works out.
  12. Since July 5 I’ve had several sailing sessions and the laced luff works just fine. I now consider Seabiscuit safe for solo sailing. That is, when on the water the sail may be easily and quickly doused (or raised) without moving forward. Also, it may be furled and kept out-of-the-way (using topping lift and sheet) for rowing. That’s important in case of sudden turn of the weather. It’s also useful for rowing away from a dock or launching ramp. HOWEVER, I’ve decided that I’m just not up to sailing such a small dinghy. For my age (88 yrs), its just too tippy and very hard on my knees — mainly because of the low height of the seats. Also, my reduced agility makes moving across the boat when tacking very problematic. Entry and exit was also very Another reason for selling is that I’ve found and bought a small sailing cruiser — a 1993 Peep Hen in very good condition. And before buying her, the owner allowed me to demonstrate [for myself] that I could easily raise and lower the mast, and move around the cabin and cockpit with ease and find the seats and bunks comfortable. She will be named “Recall,” which is a [military] bugle call that announces “… the end of drill and all hard work.” Here are a few pixs: Pete McCrary
  13. Use “rigging tape” of different colors. You can buy a set of red, green, blue, and white. 1/2” wide. Use same color on all lines: reefing luff, reefing leech, halyard & throat, and snotter/out-haul. Use different color for shallow, deep, and extreme reefing. On my Chessie I used red for the deep reef and green for shallow and blue (indicating “sky high”), meaning no reefing at all. I wrapped the lines just a couple of inches short of the cleating spot so as to avoid the cleat chaffing the tape. Occasional inspection gives warning as to wear and tear. Get the sequencing right for releasing each line and setting/trimming in the final steps — and it works like a charm. See Chessie’s Owners Manual (Part 2, page 14 — the paragraphs on reefing) on her build.
  14. Yes. Within the next few days or next week. Still needs a bit of fine-tuning on the rig. Also, our 62nd is this Sunday, July 11.
  15. Steve — I really think it will be a big improvement. Especially for a solo sailor. Aerodynamically it’s almost like the zipper sleeve as the luff rotates following the boom and sail angles. A cars & track luff doesn’t rotate unless the mast does. We’ll see how well she does after I sail her a few times. Also, with the topping lift, I’m able easily to switch from sailing to oars and vice versa. When launching from a Marina ramp you often need to row or paddle out thru a maze of docks, slips, breakwaters, etc. — and you just can’t do that with the sail up. And another thing: without the zippered sleeve, the sail can be furled. That was nearly impossible with the sleeved luff. The sailmaker only charged me $264 for removing the sleeve and installing seven new cringles, properly reinforced — keeping the existing tac and head cringles. That provides eight equally-spaced lacing “spaces.” More to be posted as I learn best how to sail Seabiscuit with her new rig.
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