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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on July 4 2018

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About Pete McCrary

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..

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  1. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    "Catnip" has been cut-in-two! Here are some photos (and maybe a video or two). My helpers were my Annie (the blond) and Brenda (the redhead). Hoping that the videos show. My helpers. The hull was covered with packaging tape over the cut-line -- hoping to minimize flaking of the edge. Worked fairly well. Keeping the saw kerf open with wedges. This might have been the last cut. That "sailboat" pocket is leftover quilting material that Annie sewed on for me. Trimming the "ragged" edge with a file. Note the cardboard "spacer" in top photo. They were harder to saw thru than expected. Nesting nicely. The "X" marks the indexing bolt-hole and the pencil line marks where the U-shaped hardware will line up with the bottom edge of the bulkhead (after the notch is cut in the bottom plank). After the notch is cut and the pencil line matches the bottom of the bulkhead, then there will be the indexing hole into the bulkhead which will exactly locate the piece so that the other three bolt-holes may be drilled. Hopefully the videos follow. I've never succeeded in posting a video. But our forum software has been updated. IMG_1838.mp4 The final result -- nicely nested. I tried to load 3 more -- but they didn't show right away. And one is missing and another duplicated. IMG_1839.mp4 I think this is the 2nd cut. The next is the last cut -- then the 1st cut -- then a REPEAT of the 2nd cut. Oh well. ????? IMG_1841.mp4 IMG_1840.mp4 IMG_1839.mp4
  2. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    Now she's ready for an important creative event: the TURNOVER. And present is my faithful and loving helper, my Annie. See the snow outside? Looks like maybe she'd like to be doing something else..? Shoveling snow..!..? Now, we're partway there. Ready for a "quarter-flip"..? Half-way there -- and the helper is very happy. Look Ma, no hands! Now she's all set for "the rest of the story." She won't go upright again until all is finished on this side, including two coats of Awl Grip primer and paint to the gunwales. There will be no "boot." She'll have red to the waterline, white topsides, and Kingston Gray inside. I'm thinking of painting the RubRails -- rather than having them as brightwork. What do you think? The RubRail will be covered with a canvas encased rubber bumper.
  3. Pete McCrary

    Speeding up rigging and unrigging.

    I have a different approach to these rigging problems. Bear in mind that I originally used a set up similar to Graham's, but Chessie's mizzen mast was (and is) stepped by hand. This required transport crutches forward (for mizzen) and aft (for mizzen & main). The sprits were supported on crutches (like Graham's) over the masts. And I stowed the sails in separate (light-weight & not waterproof) sail bags with the battens installed. For transport, the sail bags were stowed in the cabin. Attaching the sails to the sprits with all the leech reefing lines properly rigged was a hassle. Basically, the rigging [of the reefing lines] had to be done on deck and not until the sails were bent to the masts and sprits. My attempt to ease this problem was to keep the reefing lines and sails on their sprits (properly rigged) -- and then stow ALL [sail, installed battens, rigged reefing lines, and sprit] in a SunBrella canvas zippered bag. The two bags won't fit into the cabin, so I transport them securely lashed to the port-side seat of the cockpit. The mainsail's sprit (in the bag's extension beyond the luff) overhangs the transom by about 18". When bending each sail, I just lay the sail bag on the port-side "walking board" with its zipper up, lift it all (out of its bag) to the cabin roof (sail ties & all), then attach the snotter, topping lift & sheet to the sprit -- and (while standing on the "walking board") attach the halyard and start slipping the sail-slides into their track. The reefing downhauls have been left in place and are now hanked into their cringles. The leech reefing lines have not been moved since the last "takedown," so they just need adjusting. I've only been using this approach since late last season -- so it's not yet smooth out. But so far, I like it. And I've noticed advantages other than not having to mess with the leech reefing lines -- especially reducing the up [into] and down [out of] the cockpit with sprits and sails. Also, when Chessie is stowed on the driveway or in the garage, it is easy to lift each sail bag from the cockpit seat and move them onto their wall-rack in the garage. After Chessie is out of her garage I'll post some photos.
  4. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Jay asked about my "Walking Planks." Chessie is on her trailer in the garage -- so these were about the best pixs that I could get. The main planks are 2x12 (1.5" x 11.125"). They add some weight to the trailer, mainly on the tongue. But I find them very useful. The one on the starboard side is shorter so that the hinged tongue can fold all the way back against the side of the hull. You can see from the next photo that the planks don't add any width beyond the fenders. The planks are high enough so that (while standing on the plank I can reach high enough on the mast to slip the mains'l slides into the sail track. I can also reach to the bottom of the anchor well. Also, the forward ends provide a nice place to lay out either sail onto its open "sail bag," sit to change wet socks, or just a place to rest out-of-the sun (unless at high noon pointing south). Looking aft, this shows the walking plank that runs diagonally from the port-side of forward roller cross-beam back to the midship roller. When recovering and the boat's bow is near the center roller, I use this plank to walk back with the winch hook and secure it to the bow-eye. The plank you see to-port is the CB catcher. When trailering, I ease off the CB pennant so that the CB just touches the plank. I'm thinking that by doing that I've extended the useful life of the pennant. If the CB is "bounced" up by a highway jolt, it be stopped with a rubber cushion placed at the top inside the CB housing. This shows the forward end of that diagonal plank where it is secured to the cross-timber supporting the forward roller. The lumber is from Home Depot -- but not PT. And not their Douglas Fir (which is their best quality). Their clerks are usually helpful in helping me find nice straight pieces. Hope this helps you visualize the details of the "walking boards>"
  5. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    As soon as I finish Catnip I'll rip that 2x8 so it will have the trough x-section that I want. I'll also put a 60 degree slope on the aft end and (over the last 8" or so) deepen the [trough] sides so as to guide the keel's 3/4" half-oval into the groove (1/2" radius) at the bottom of the trough. And I'll try launching and recovering Chessie with the trailer backed only down the ramp so that the end of the trough is about 6" under water. That just might keep the trailer wheel bearings out of the water. Better yet, (looking at my diagram [posted on 2/16/2019]), I think I'll return the 12 foot 2x8 for a 16 footer -- and make it as long as it can be (and still clear the dip at the end of my driveway). Maybe I'll even be able to meet Graham's goal of keeping the trailer wheels dry! I'm considering covering the bottom of the trough with two overlapping (at the centerline -- knitted edges outboard) 10 oz 4" FG tape over the entire length. And treating the rest of the surface with some kind of penetrating oil. Maybe something like Tung Oil -- to resist moisture penetration and add a bit of lubrication. Maybe that'll be enough protection considering that it will be under the boat most of the time and in a garage off-season. And the surface could be easily retreated from time to time. Comments, anyone?
  6. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Wow! That's beautiful. If Chessie's 2x8 trough has too much friction, I just might have go the multiple-roller route. The last photo looks like you have the roller heights matching a keel profile -- is that right? Wouldn't you need to be careful to always have a safety chain or winch hook on the bow eye right up to the point of launch? The trough on "Tattoo's" trailer had a backward slope of 2 or 3 degrees -- which when added to ramp slope -- made her very easy to slide right off. I was careful to keep the winch hook on until we were in deep enough water. The extra slope also made cranking her back up harder -- but I managed it OK. For Chessie, recovery should be easier because the winch crank has two speeds.
  7. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    I keep thinking of jobs for "Chessie," even though she's still in the garage. Spring fever, I guess. Alan and I have exchanged a few emails and ideas about problem-rollers on our trailers and the damage they suffer from the loads they support. Less than 3sq" of hard rubber (on three rollers) supports as much as 1,500 lbs of weight. And much heavier loading when the trailer hits highway bumps! Alan is considering a loading trough instead of rollers for his CS20.3. That reminded that the trailer for Tattoo (my CLC PocketShip) used a trough -- and it worked like a charm. Here are several pixs: Notice how high she sits on the trailer. Tattoo had a straight keel/CB and I worried about the load shifting on the trough -- thus the 2x3 cheeks. When recovering, Because the trough had to be so high (on the trailer), Tattoo's straight-stem wouldn't easily go over the end of the trough -- so I had this roller to ease the stem over the edge. The trough was lubricated and that made launching very easy. I kept the hook on to keep her from sliding off before the trailer was in deep enough water -- then unhooked her. With a little backward motion and taping of the breaks -- she just slid right off. So I've decided to replace the rollers with a trough made from a 12' x 2 x 8. It's not PT. The Home Depot clerk warned me that if PT it would warp as it dries out. I stood on the middle (11 ft span). That 197.6 lbs displaced the center down by 2.875". Here's the design sketch of the trough x-section. I don't plan any cheek strakes. I think the keel will be held firmly in the center half-round (1/2" radius) cut -- which is a good fit for Chessie's 7/8" keel protector covered with a SS 3/4" half oval. My plan is to mount the trough on blocking that will replace the existing rollers. I'll firmly attach the ends on blocking at the heights of the replaced rollers. And I'll install blocking under the trough at the position of the third roller such as to LIMIT the downward deflection to just 2". Alan provided me a profile of the keel that I used (on an exaggerated verticle scale) to determine how much the deflection should be UNDER a line pulled between the fore and aft ends of the trough. Here's a sketch of how I did that. We think that when loaded, the CS20.3 will easily displace the trough to closely conform it to its own keel -- distributing the load over the entire length of the trough. Perhaps not evenly -- but certainly without any high concentrations of load. I think the boat will have a much gentler highway ride. And launching, and especially recovery, will be easier. Here's a sketch of the geometry of a typical recovery. This shows a ramp of 8 degrees of slope. The trailer has been backed to the point where the water just comes to the hitch ball. And the boat has been manouvered into position where its keel (just aft of the stem) is touching the trough. Then the skipper can step from dry ramp surface onto the trailer's running boards -- walk down a "walking" plank with the winch hook and secure it on the bow-eye -- and return to the winch to crank her up the trough. The angle of the winch cable and the still-floating stern ease the force required. Or, so I say. We'll see. Notice that we souldn't need a roller at any point. Also note that the trough need not be lubricated except on about its fward two-thirds. I haven't started the project beyond this phase -- critical comments and suggestions are welcom. PS -- I'll cut that half-round groove with a 50-some year-old Craftsman molding bit on a 50-year-old Cradtsman table saw. That all folks.
  8. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    Almost ready for the turnover! Looking aft ... Looking under the aft seat ... Looking forward ... A stack of styrofoam cut to fit tightly under the covered part of the mid-ship seat assembly ... Next will be filleting all inside corners and final assembly
  9. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    More progress on Catnip. The aft seat has been framed (dry-fitted) and flotation tanks have been permanently enclosed. Just need to fillet the outside corners. The hole in the port-side tank is for a 4" deck plate shown here. I thought the out-of-sight space would be useful for dry storage. Rather than have stuff bounce around throughout the inside of the tank -- I bought a removable ditty-bag that is easily removable. And today I dry-fitted the forward seat. Next will be the midship seat.
  10. Pete McCrary

    A Two Paw 7 build, "Catnip" . .

    Building Chessie's 7' dinghy "Catnip" has been quite here for a'wile. But I recently managed to get the cleats beveled and glued in place for the aft seat and flotations tanks. Here are the beveled cleats glues in place: Next showing the port-side tank cover dry-fitted. With such a lightweight boat I decided to tilt her so I wouldn't have to fight gravity [so muxh] when laying down a big fat bead of thickened epoxy. Next will be the forward seat.
  11. Pete McCrary

    Taylor and Alan's CS-20 MK3 #15

    The changes Alan and Taylor (and B & B's design) have incorporated into their #15 CS20.3 are really great improvements -- design and fabrication. Especially the tank assembly, icebox, battery stowage & step, motor well, and cabin roof beams & the assembly of the cabin roof structure. And the mizzen tabernacle! For my Chessie stepping the mizzen is a challenge -- but so far manageable. But at 85 I'm not sure how many more years I'll be able to do it solo. Ditto for raising/lowering the mainmast. The icebox makes the best use of that starboard-side space. Question: Will the lining have an outboard drain so you could use block ice? In the same port-side space I've found that the box drawers work very well -- especially for stowage of galley type things: stove, wash basin, cooking fuel, towels, spare blankets, etc. The drawer is easily removed for access -- but keep it light weight. But the rails have to be installed before the sheer strakes, cockpit deck, & sheer cabin roof panels are installed. Almost impossible [to do] afterwards. I use the space--under for spare-water bladders (doubles as more ballest down low). The surface over the battery box is useful for a galley stove or wash basin. Just forward of the step (over the battery) is the only place (in the cabin) with unlimited head-room. If the hatch (on Chessie) opened just a little more -- it would make standing [at that spot on the cabin sole] a little more comfortable for washing, shaving, etc (using the garage top as a counter top). Also for reefing the mains'l, scanning the horizon, etc. If you spring for a dodger, be sure to have the canvas guy provide for a zippered opening in the panel over the companionway. My guy didn't want to do it -- saying it might not be water-tight. But I insisted, and he has agreed that it was a good idea. Very little leakage -- and what-of-it, if the hatch is easily closed. I really like the motor well. It puts the OBM out of the way and there is still lots of stowage in the other cockpit lockers -- as well as under the mizzen partner for fuel & water bottles. But I'd do it just for a better looking boat. Just hate that ugly look at the stern. I would try to mount the motor (now an IBM?) on a faux transom that can be raised/lowered on a track. On my Whitholz 17' Catboat (built by Cape Cod Shipbuilding) the OBM was mounted on a faux transom outboard of the actual transom. Raising and lowering was done with 1/4" line and x4 tackle. No reaching way overboard to tilt heavy motor out on the water. I really enjoyed the video. On another posting I'll bring up issues that you might want to address with respect to trailering.
  12. Pete McCrary

    STILL ON-->B&B Messabout 2018

    Greetings fellow mess-a-bouters, A fun evening on Saturday! With Chessie on level ground, retired early planning on a 7am Sunday departure. But nature called at about 4am -- really dark as a "black hole" after the moon had set, but very bright stars. On the road by 5am and home safe by noon (333 miles). Here are some photos of the good times: Steve at Chessie's helm. McCrary at the helm. Friday was very nice sailing. Saturday too, with more wind and some rain. Two old guys and two youngsters. Pre-race maneuvers . . After the start. Thanks so much to Alan and Graham and all at B & B for hosting such fun events each year. By-the-way, the left-over lasagna was delicious! Chessie and I will do our best to be there next year.
  13. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    One more essential for Chessie: a Masthead Light. The Coast Guard requires a 135 degree forward facing white light when under way by power at night in addition to the other navigation lights (port-red, starboard-green, aft-white). This is sometimes called a "steaming" light. It's supposed to be mounted (something like) at least one meter above the top deck. Recent rule changes suggested that a 360 degree light (like an anchor light) could be used as a substitute. Chessie has such a light (removable) that is mounted on the starboard side of the cabin roof at Blk 3. It can "telescope" to a height of almost 8' clearing well above the dodger and/or a furreled sail. However, if Chessie motored at night, the 360 degree light would blind the helmsman looking forward. So, I needed a "steaming" light on the mainmast. But the only times I've cruised at night was for an early departure (or late arrival) for a crossing -- and I've only needed to do that twice in 10 years of cruising. So I've designed and fabricated a steaming light that I can keep stowed and mount it on the mainmast only when needed: The "claws" are 6mm marine ply, the separator & mounting bracket is 12mm marine ply. The claws flex just enough to firmly clasp the assembly to the 3" diameter mainmast. This last photo shows the light pushed onto the mast in its transport position. The assembly will be kept [up and facing forward] in position by a 10-32 machine screw tapped into the aluminum mast just below the height where I'll want the light. The power cord will be a flexable "roll-up" cord used for household vacuum cleaners. There's a dedicated 12v power outlet in the anchor well on Blk 1. The whole thing (light assembly with cord and plug) will be stowed in a canvas bag or cardboard box -- probably in the forward locker between Blks 1 & 2.
  14. Pete McCrary

    Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Attention: NEWS ABOUT "Chessie" - - For an overnight or two, extra water is needed for cooking, washing, etc. So, with shelf-space available on the forward locker's top, I fabricated a bed (and hold-down strap) for a standard 2.5 gal water tank with its spigot conveniently over the edge of the locker. As a solo sailor I often wish for a helmsman to steady Chessie's course into the wind while I raise/lower sails, anchor, etc.. So, I purchased a Raymarine "Tiller Pilot." Here's the setup: Not shown is its stowed position which is along the side of the starboard cockpit coaming with its push-rod resting in a notch installed over the transom. The tiller pilot is stowed (whenever not in use) by lifting the push-rod off the tiller extension, retracting the push-rod and simply rotating the assemble aft and dropping the retracted push-rod into its knotch. Also, not shown is the "push-pull" on/off switch installed on the starboard side of the footwell. The Tiller Pilot has its own fuze protected circuit. So whenever the main on/off switch is on, the TP is available for use. Chessie has a new motor: a Honda 4 long-shaft with a 6 amp charger. The charger was considered necessary because of the considerable electrical requirements of the Tiller Pilot. Also, the battery charging from occasional use of the motor pretty much substitutes for a solar panel. The charging circuit is fuze-protected but "unswitched" so that whenever the motor is used -- the battery is being charged even if the main switch if "off." For shore-side use there is a separate charging connector (on the outside of cabin bulkhead [Blk 3] and weather-protected under the port-side cockpit coaming -- also fuze-protected and unswitched. Shown here is the happy owner on the first "sea trial" for the OBM. Also shown is the tach-hour meter installed. Its display is a liquid chrystal requiring very little energy. Its input is simply a wire (the end of which is) wrapped around the spark plug lead held in place with a very small cable tie. Switching between "hours" and "rpm" is by a "toggle" button at lower-right on the module. Cost < $50. The tachometer allowed me to discover that the maximum rpm was only about 3900 -- below the rated 4500. Turns out that the dealer delivered the 4hp with the wrong prop -- a 7-7/8 d x 7-1/2 p. We replaced that with a 7-7/8 x 5-7/8 prop. Now she reves up to over 4500, developing a full 4 hp. Pushes Chessie easily up to 5.5 knots. Next is Chessie at her slip next to the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. She was attending the 35th Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival. We had a very nice sail on Friday. The last photo shows the skipper showing off (Look Ma, no hands) that Chessie balances very nicely and stears herself. Notice:: the tiller pilot was NOT ENGAGED. See youall at the Messabout on Friday.
  15. Pete McCrary

    STILL ON-->B&B Messabout 2018

    Steve,... I plan to arrive Friday am after an overnight at Big Mill Bed & Breakfast in Williamston, NC. I'm overnighting it there also Sunday on the way home. It's just an hour & a quarter from the B & B shop -- but it takes a big rough edge off the.trips to/from home. I'd welcome you aboard Chessie for the sailing activities. We could trade off at the helm -- each of us getting experience with the CS20.3. Maybe we could get Alan to demonstrate some good techniques. But I'll cancel if the weather predicts NASTY. Keep fingers crossed.
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