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Pete McCrary

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Pete McCrary last won the day on February 21

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About Pete McCrary

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/30/1934

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Manassas, Virginia
  • Interests
    Small boatbuilding, sailing, cruising, woodworking, history ..
  • Supporting Member Since
    09/13/2019

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  1. Had not thought of the washer idea — but I’d like something I didn’t have to think about. Not concerned about mast rotation — a key notch in the step prevents that anyway. And I’ve thought about tying the mast as Dave suggests. But again, that’s just one more thing to remember. With a tube, and the worst happens (boat “turtles”), the mast just slides out — but only so far because the vang and reefing lines are still “stop-knotted” behind their cleats. And even if the sail is stowed and boom still hinged to the mast, the boom will be in a crutch (aft) or held up by th
  2. I haven’t sailed Seabiscuit much — in fact, just once, at the 2020 Messabout. However, I’ve been thinking a lot about what might be problems for a solo sailor. Like lowering the sail as the wind starts getting out-of-hand. Seems to me it could be a challenge: just two hands, and (skipper forward), simultaneously handling the halyard, sail (needing encouragement to come down), and zipper (unzipping). I have some ideas on those issues, which I’ll try out in the drive way or in shallow water this spring. But for now I've been concerned about a separate potential problem. As const
  3. As an observer and Chessie's builder, I am certainly proud of the performance of both crew and boat. For sure, future events will be challenging and exciting. May I offer another observation as part of the post event "critique"? Upon launch, and later views of the sails, I noticed that (with no reefing) the heads of both mains'l and mizzen' were not snug up against the halyard pully at the mast heads. They were about 6" to 8" short of maximum height. The downhauls should be trimmed and cleated after sails are at maximum height. In my humble opinion. That would create more cle
  4. Not too late for most of the job. The first application was just for the bottom panels. Their concave surfaces made smooth application a bit more difficult. Today I’ll do the rest of the interior — seats sides and tops up to the gunwales. . QUESTION: How soon after applying the fairing compound should the clear epoxy be applied? Before the “thin film is set”? Immediately? Thanks for the suggestion.
  5. Thanks guys. I hadn’t thought of using the scraper. I’ll sharpen up the scraper and use it tomorrow and give it another day to cure before using the 80 grit.
  6. Some “fairing” advice, please. I just (2pm today) spread thickened (peanut-butter stiff) fairing compound to smooth out the edges where 3” FG tape was used to strengthen joints at the keel, chines, etc. I did this for the Two Paw 7 several years ago — but don’t remember the timing sequences. QUESTION: With shop temp at 65 degrees when applied and kept above 55 degrees overnight, would 10am next day be too early to sand smooth with 80 grit? Or, should I wait another day or two?
  7. I figure that even with the bailer 6” off the keel line, nearly all water will soon be ejected because seldom is the boat plumb upright. Just a few weight shifts and/or sheet adjustments will slosh around the water [enough] to get the last drop out. And with that 6” offset I need not ever have to remember to close the bailer for either launch or recovery. I noticed the check-valve “flapper” (which had to be removed) when I installed a reversed bailer as a scoop to fill Chessie’s ballast tank. I wondered how effective it was in preventing “back floe” at slow or no speed?
  8. Thank you Aphers. That answers a lot of questions. I'll be installing the mini bailer. Probably off the keel line enough for it to miss the trailer's roller -- just aft of the center thwart.
  9. Spring is almost here and Seabiscuit’s just about finished — and I haven’t decided if I should instal the mini bailer. I think it would be most useful if the skipper had shipped a lot of water over the lee rail while sailing aggressively in a breeze. He could easily extend the bailer and quickly eject the water. The same with water from a downpour. Question #1: With the flotations in the bow and under the long side-seats — and after the boat is “righted” following a capsize by its solo skipper, could the result be that water in the cockpit is high enough so there would be outflow
  10. That's amazing! Good thing that the hatch boards were in place and [I assume] the hatch cover pulled aft and closed. If either the boards not in place or the hatch not pulled closed, then would not the cabin have ingested much more water -- even to the point of you (and crew) not being able to "right"-side-up the boat? Have I got that right? If so, wouldn't it be VERY IMPORTANT to always sail with boards in place and hatch pulled closed -- especially in gusty or strong winds? If you (and crew) couldn't get her upright, wouldn't you need professional salvage help at g
  11. Steve, right after you managed to bring Skeena upright, what was the level of water in the cabin? Also, in the cockpit? I’m wondering if you had to bucket-bail real fast to keep ahead of water coming in thru to top of the busted cb housing top and/oh the cockpit scuppers? Years ago my Crocker carvel planked keeled sailboat was bottomed by a spring low tide (at her slip) and as the tide returned, water solely came in the low scupper into the cockpit and over the companionway sill (the keel keeping the boat tilted and the scupper low) — resulting in the boat fully swamped but float
  12. About the forward hatch position — I’d keep in mind that the reefing pendants (I recall only 3 {or 4?} for the shallow reef) need not be tied immediately in order for the reefed sail to have the desired effect. They function mainly (on a loose footed sail) to tidy up the sail’s foot and reduce windage. They can be left loose until all other lines are tended and the helm adjusted for a steady course. The two aft ones can be tied while standing in the companionway — and maybe even a 3rd one (can’t remember for sure ?). I rigged Chessie’s mains’l (as per one of B&B’s drawings) w
  13. Steve, I just re-read [more carefully] your historical note on the June capsize of “Skeena.” And I recall being amazed that the CB cut right thru the hard foam bumper and continued right on to split the top of the CB housing. However, after more consideration, it shouldn’t be quite so surprising. Eighteen pounds of lead at the end of a 4’ leaver-arm, falling in an arc of 90 degrees, will concentrate a tremendous force (at the end of the arc) as it hits the foam bumper. And, you probably tapered the trailing edge (of the CB and lead tip) to a fairly sharp edge. That edge would h
  14. I think Dave has it right. If you want to separate the tubes for transport, you'd never insert the tubes while any epoxy is not yet cured. Dave made his bushings one layer at a time until just a little too big, then sanded down to a proper fit for steadiness and ease of separation. My procedure was to wrap (modestly tight) the smaller tube with FG tape (end secured with masking tape) until the thickness was just the ID of the bigger tube (measured with a "mic") -- then [I would] lay out the FG on bench (surface covered with packaging tape) and wet it thoroughly with epoxy. Then
  15. Now that Seabiscuit’s oars are approximately 7’ and can be slipped under her midship thwart, they need to be made secure for road transport and vigorous sailing. So I fabricated a pair of “jam cleats” (? nautical name suggestions please ?) shown here: They’re made of 1/2” maple pivoting on 5/16” carriage bolts each held in place with two 1” ss washers and a nylon lock nut. The nuts allow adjustment “just-so” the jam cleats may be rotated outboard and under the thwart — like this: Notice the stowed starboard-side cleat’s foot just showing under the the thwar
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