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meester

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meester last won the day on October 17 2018

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About meester

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    Male
  • Location
    Gaithersburg, MD
  • Interests
    Nimrod SoF canoe, puddle duck, Core Sound 15 in progress

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  1. Hi David, Are you asking about huge skegs that would keep the boat upright at low tide? I have seen dinghy cruising stories from the UK that involve sailing up a river on the tide, drying out overnight and then sailing out on the next high tide. Looks like fun. Here's my philosophy. The purpose of the boat is to give you joy. It follows that the best boat design is the one that gives you the most joy. If you want to explore gravely beaches, and if fear of hull damage is taking the joy out of it, then go ahead and add skegs. You'll give up a little speed, but much joy are you getting out of that fraction of a knot? Are there other ways to solve the problem, say with fenders wedged between the keel and the beach? If you do decide on skegs, permanent, tough and durable? Cheap and replaceable? Cheers, Bob
  2. Hi Tobias, Your Muckla is a handsome boat. I guess I just like dark-colored hulls. The Diablo and CS20 hulls seem similar to me. Anything beyond the effect of length of water line on hull speed is too subtle for me, but the CS hulls are known to be fast. The biggest differences I see are in the sail plans. Going upwind or on a reach, the sail is acting as an airfoil, and long, thin airfoils are more efficient (lift / drag). Gliders and airliners need high efficiency, and they tend to have long, narrow wings. Going downwind, the sail acts as a parachute, providing drag. Parachutes (like spinnakers) tend to be fatter. Since the Diablo has this tall bermuda rig, I'd guess it might beat the CS20 going upwind, and the CS20, with its sail area split between two shorter masts might have an advantage downwind. Is speed your only criterion? The CS20's cat ketch rig offers advantages in ease of use. Tacking involves just moving the tiller. There's no jib sheet to winch in, and there's no boom to duck under. Speed is good, but I think stopping is often overlooked. The ability to stop and rest, think, and adjust is important for safety in my opinion. With a mizzen rather than a jib, you can haul in the mizzen, loose the main and the boat will weathercock right into the wind while you take a break. If you are interested in getting into the technical details, I can recommend a couple of books. In my book pile, "The Nature of Boats" by Dave Gerr describes a lot of the tradeoffs that go into boat design. "High Performance Sailing" by Frank Bethwaite is a technical treasure covering everything from weather to foil shapes. Having said all that, the best boat is certainly the one you can sail. Bob
  3. Geek alert! 316 stainless becomes magnetic when it's cold worked (bent, hammered, spindled, mutilated etc.) You can file a nice piece of non-magnetic 316 and pick up the filings with a magnet.
  4. Hi Don, It was great to see you at the messabout. I like those booklet charts too. I've been using them on the Chesapeake, just printing them out on regular paper and putting them into plastic sleeves in a 3-ring binder. After the outing, I draw my approximate route and keep the page as a momento. It's not as secure as your method, but I also have a waterproof GMCO chart book for backup. The one thing I don't like about the booklet chart is that the lat/long minutes are only marked on pages that cover the edges of the original paper chart. The few times I've gotten lost down the wrong creek, it was tricky to find my position on the chart from the lat/long on my GPS. Bob
  5. Hi y'all, I just signed up. I wasn't sure if I could make it but things look good now. Steve, I figure I'll stay on my boat, but I'll pack a tent along too. Are you looking for a shelter? Bob
  6. Thanks very much for the update. New Bern has been on the news a lot, but I've been anxious for news about B&B.
  7. Hi All, This past weekend, I accomplished a long-term goal to go on overnight adventures in my boat. I took the Mellimac for a two-night cruise with the Shallow Water Sailors, (www.shalowwatersailor.us). This was their annual Spring Cruise, and nine boats sailed on the Little Choptank River near Cambridge MD. I wisecrack that I'm still looking forward to sleeping on the boat, 🙂 but it was really not that bad. I may never trust an air mattress again. Here are some pictures of the boom tent that I came up. But wait, there's more! It's also a boat cover! I needed a tent, and It'd be nice to keep my gear dry when trailering in wet weather. Do I really need two big canvas things? Here it is in boat cover mode at a hamburger stop on the road. ... and in tent mode. I messed up on the bow section and had to improvise with different material, and then messed that up too. The main roof and walls are flame-retardant polytarp. The roof is suspended from the boom and mizzen using 4 battens -- six-foot driveway markers from the hardware box store. The tips of the battens are held in pockets made from tubular nylon webbing and pulled downward by cords that anchor under the rub rail. I need more tension along the eaves to prevent sags, but good enough for a first shot. It makes a nice bachelor pad and the neighbor kids enjoy it too. The walls flip up to make more of a shade shelter Overnight on the water, I kept the mizzen sheeted in with the snotter tight, and the whole rig stayed steady pointed into the wind. There were light breezes and a few little showers, so the tent didn't get a real stress test. There are bugs to work out and some thinking to do, but overall, I'm happy with the design. Bob
  8. Hi "Ribs," Like you, I put some time and effort into my first fairing board. Then I realized that it'd be good to have several fairing boards on hand with different grades of sandpaper. I ended up being very happy with dead simple fairing boards that are nothing but rectangles of pink insulation foam board. I used adhesive sandpaper that comes in rolls, but it's the same idea as your split sheets. The foam is stiff, but flexes over the curves and it's very light. It worked for me to grip the boards across their edges, but I'll admit that might not be comfortable for those with smaller hands. My 80 grit board gets used a lot where I used to use a rasp for rounding off corners etc. It works faster and the big pink board is way easier to find! Bob
  9. We had a CPR course at work, and my class partner (also named Luanne - go figure) saved her husband's life with CPR about a week later. Get trained.
  10. If the Spindrift rudder gets carved into an airfoil shape, wouldn't you end up removing some of the oily material?
  11. Hi Paul, There is a lot of information and demonstrations online, and lots of ways to get the job done, especially when it comes to starting and finishing off. Turns out that it's almost the same as making lace, except for size and machismo. I think I got started learning from this fellow at the MASCF a couple years ago. I didn't use the jig though, I just used a gauge card -- a thin slat about as wide as net square. https://youtu.be/HfB1XjhYPP0 You can buy netting needles, but making the needle out of a coat hanger is crafty. This video also has recommendations on the twine. Later videos in this series teach the flying dutchman method, which is supposed to be really fast. https://youtu.be/CZfWCyv1eFo My first attempts used twisted nylon twine, and it was too slippery. The knots just came loose and the net turned into spaghetti. "Bonded" netting twine has a polyurethane coating that helps hold the knot. I used a tar-coated nylon braid. http://a.co/9UIHH2c. This was too sticky to use the flying dutchman method. Much easier to explain in person, but PM me if you have questions. Bob
  12. Hi All, Here's a little progress on my winter projects. First, I learned to make netting and I have made nets that go under the decking to hold gear. There's bungee cord across the top and the bottom row is made with smaller loops so that it can be pulled tight. I'm also working on a tent, and I put up a rough draft mock-up to check things out before investing in good materials. The basic idea is to suspend the boom and yard in a lazyjack system between the main mast and mizzen and then hang the tent below that. In the mock-up, I just put the quick & dirty "tent" on top of a suspended spar. There are 4 x 6' fiberglass rods (driveway markers) that hold the roof and then I would add side walls. It could be a lot of windage, so I am also thinking that in a storm, I'd lower the stern end and tie the roof right down to the deck. Thanks to Steve W for describing something like this to me when we were at the messabout. Bob
  13. Wow. Wow. Wow. Gorgeous work. What are the rings around the bases of the masts? I'm guessing they are drip deflectors? What are they made of? Congratulations and Happy New Year, Bob
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