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meester

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meester last won the day on January 21

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About meester

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Gaithersburg, MD
  • Interests
    Nimrod SoF canoe, puddle duck, Core Sound 15 in progress

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  1. Chick is right about keeping your weight near the center thwart, at least when sailing solo. Too far back, and the transom gets down in the water creating turbulence and drag. For my CS15, I made my first tiller too short and had to reach back to get the trim right. To compensate, I made my 2nd tiller too long. Too long is when it's awkward to shift across the cockpit when tacking and jibing. Also, if you make the tiller long, its easy to make it shorter. Not so, the other way 'round, I found. My tiller pivots up like the ones above. Sometimes it's nice
  2. Hi Steve, For what it's worth, this is my next build - the West Mersea Duck Punt. It's not an ultralight, but it can be cartopped and it is dead simple. There's no dagger/center/lee board or keel, and you steer with a paddle or short oar. You heel it over on it's hard chine to go upwind. https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/milgate-duck-punt/ Also check out the YouTube channel of "lurch1e" for sailing videos. There are plans in a couple of places online - the original design by John Milgate and a an incomplete stitch and glue developme
  3. @Thrillsbe"Toilet in a bag" by Cleanwaste. Available at Amazon, Walmart, and maybe other places.
  4. Hi Don, I'm enthusiastic about this topic. Dinghy cruising was really the adventure I had in mind when I built my CS 15. About shelter, I used fire resistant polytarp for my boom tent. I worried that if my tent caught fire, there'd be nowhere to escape to. I also bought a cheap mosquito netting shelter from Wal-Mart that I attached to the inside of the tent. I can roll up the tent walls and let the breeze flow through. I second the recommendation of http://logofspartina.blogspot.com Steve Early is a great photographer. Also Roger Barnes youtube videos
  5. Congratulations on your retirement and on your new project. Keep up posted!
  6. I put a lug rig on my CS15, and the mast is 16' birdsmouth out of Doug Fir. DF is relatively inexpensive and its reddish color looks quite nice. I used too much math to calculate and measure the taper. Now I'd go with a simple bent batten to get a nice fair curve on one piece and then use that piece as a reference to match the others to. It looks like your mast tube is already installed, so that answers the diameter question. In addition to the boom attachment, a lot of forces get exerted at the deck-level end of the mast tube. Reinforce with a solid core there too.
  7. Hi Don, I like the ideas from Ken and Reacher. Have you thought about a glassed fillet on the underside? Most of the other joints on the boat have fillets, right? Bob
  8. I'd like to gently suggest that the number of hours spent might not really matter if you enjoy the building. In fact, hours spent in the shop might even go on the reward side of your personal accounting. As for me, I loved building my CS15, I'm immensely proud of the accomplishment, and I'm really enjoying sailing it. Triple win!
  9. I have the auto-release cleats on both the CB and rudder on my CS15. Going aground is no big deal. There's a "click," I recleat the CB half-down and head for deeper water. The auto-release cleat would also forgive the unraised CB mistake and nobody would notice. Belt and suspenders: floating tenon inside and fiberglass on the outside. Go for a strong joint. I think KevinB's point about capsize recovery is a good one.
  10. Hi Amos, I love that organizer. I have been using a backpack with lots of internal pockets in different chambers, and it's awkward to find stuff. That looks like just the thing. It looks like there's about a half-inch pleat tucked into the side of each pocket to give volume. Is that right?
  11. “A spouse who will go camping on a boat with you is worth her weight in gold.” - Brian Forsyth We arrived at the ramp just before sunset, and I was nervous. My previous two overnight cruises were trial and error, with lots of little mistakes, lots of learning. But this cruise was special. This cruise would be the first for my wife Melanie, and I wanted her to enjoy it. This Spring Cruise was the big show, the final exam. Or at least that’s what I thought. When I asked her to marry me, I was pretty sure she would say “Yes,” but I had dou
  12. Hi David, Are you asking about huge skegs that would keep the boat upright at low tide? I have seen dinghy cruising stories from the UK that involve sailing up a river on the tide, drying out overnight and then sailing out on the next high tide. Looks like fun. Here's my philosophy. The purpose of the boat is to give you joy. It follows that the best boat design is the one that gives you the most joy. If you want to explore gravely beaches, and if fear of hull damage is taking the joy out of it, then go ahead and add skegs. You'll give up a little speed, but much
  13. Hi Tobias, Your Muckla is a handsome boat. I guess I just like dark-colored hulls. The Diablo and CS20 hulls seem similar to me. Anything beyond the effect of length of water line on hull speed is too subtle for me, but the CS hulls are known to be fast. The biggest differences I see are in the sail plans. Going upwind or on a reach, the sail is acting as an airfoil, and long, thin airfoils are more efficient (lift / drag). Gliders and airliners need high efficiency, and they tend to have long, narrow wings. Going downwind, the sail acts as a parachute,
  14. Geek alert! 316 stainless becomes magnetic when it's cold worked (bent, hammered, spindled, mutilated etc.) You can file a nice piece of non-magnetic 316 and pick up the filings with a magnet.
  15. Hi Don, It was great to see you at the messabout. I like those booklet charts too. I've been using them on the Chesapeake, just printing them out on regular paper and putting them into plastic sleeves in a 3-ring binder. After the outing, I draw my approximate route and keep the page as a momento. It's not as secure as your method, but I also have a waterproof GMCO chart book for backup. The one thing I don't like about the booklet chart is that the lat/long minutes are only marked on pages that cover the edges of the original paper chart. The few times I've gotte
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