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meester

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meester last won the day on May 21

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    Gaithersburg, MD
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    Nimrod SoF canoe, puddle duck, Core Sound 15 in progress

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  1. I can't tell whether your block-hook-wingnut rig has this problem, but it's essential that the tiller "lock" doesn't actually lock the tiller. It should just add friction - so you can move the tiller if you need to. I use just a cord with a wrap or two around the tiller. It's not perfect, but it works well enough for me to leave the tiller alone for a minute or two. The next level would be to add some bungee to maintain tension. Running the halyard back to where you can release it is a great idea. It's important to add blocks and cleats to keep it tidy, though. Bad things can happen if your halyard gets tangled with the main sheet or your feet or something.
  2. The Amanda's lug rig has a shorter mast - roughly the length of the boat, I think. That could make a difference if you have storage constraints. For the kind of sailing I like to do, the ability to raise and lower the sail allows me to take a break from sailing without enduring a flogging sail or going ashore. In the Spindrift's favor, you can't beat the zip sleeve for simplicity. That's about all I can think of in terms of technical differences. There are minor differences in performance that won't matter unless you are racing. Aesthetically, I think lug sails are just way cooler, but that's me. Choosing the design is a fun part of the build process. Ultimately, I think the purpose of the boat is to give you grins. If your eye just keeps coming back to one or the other design, you might want to pay attention to that. There's no wrong choice. (Except maybe a PWC - that'd be wrong.) Enjoy! Bob
  3. I suggest keeping it simple. Wear rubber boots in cool weather and use a bailer when necessary. A little water slopping around in the boat is not a big problem. Also, the more gadgets I bring, in my CS15, the more stuff there is to trip over with my enormous flipper feet. Bob
  4. @Mark Rendelman If I remember right, broadcasting on marine band frequencies is OK from the water, but not from land. (Except for the exceptions) Could that be the "illegal" issue? Bob
  5. Did we miss the question about the dagger board? It goes in with the dull, rounded edge in front and the sharp edge trailing - like an airplane wing. About downhaul tensioning, it should be just tight enough to smooth out the crease that runs from the forward end of the yard to the aft end of your boom (throat to clew). On the same post as your dagger board question, the second photo shows creases of this type. See also https://www.storerboatplans.com/tuning/lug-rig-setup/what-is-that-crease-in-my-lugsail-how-to-diagnose-and-fix/. with my balance lug, when I get that crease to pop out, I can feel the sail really catch the air. BTW, if you take raise the sail almost all the way up the you'll be able to see where you're going under the boom. Leave a few inches at the top to allow the yard to swing easier. Enjoy! Bob
  6. Hi Guys, Just wondering if you oriented the glass cloth "on the bias" with the threads running diagonally across the fish-shape's spine or "straight" with threads going parallel to the spine and other threads going down and around like ribs? My experience is that laying the glass on the bias will conform to complex shapes well, but that the cloth gets a little harder to handle because it's so stretchy along the diagonal. Bob
  7. This is one of those "well, I did this other thing" posts. I decided on 1/4" HDPE plastic for a keel strip, because its cheap and I knew I would cringe over grinding away a metal strip on ramp pavement or whatever. I used G-flex epoxy and flame-treated the plastic to help the epoxy stick. I figured the plastic would be a little slipperier for launching and retrieving off the trailer, but I don't know whether that's actually the case. Three seasons- so far so good. Bob
  8. @Don Silsbe I'm not an expert in electrochemistry but I play one on TV. I got curious about how galvanization works. I learned somewhere that the corrosion protection in galvanized steel comes from having the zinc coating corrode away before the steel gets attacked. It's the same principle as a bolt-on sacrificial zinc anode, but in coating form. But I also I read on some galvanization vendors' websites that the zinc oxide forms a tight barrier that slows corrosion, which might explain why parts are galvanized after they've been cut and formed. And while I was googling around, I also learned that aluminum sacrificial anodes are available, so maybe aluminum isn't so bad. For practical purposes, it probably doesn't matter. How many times a year is your trailer going to get dipped in salt water anyways? Just hose it off when you get home. Bob
  9. I thought it might be the tightened nuts causing the crack, but whatever the cause, those plates will help distribute the load. The crack doesn't look like it runs very far back, so it might not be a big deal at all. Another approach to stabilize the crack might be to run a bolt or threaded rod athwartships(?) through the base board and two cheeks. Consider galvanized steel for the material in order to avoid corrosion at the junction of dissimilar metals. My shins already hurt thinking about those sharp metal corners sticking out just over the edge of the trailer frame. I'm a klutz and I have the scars to prove it!
  10. Wonderful. Delightful. Inspiring. This thread is giving me grins. Keep up the good work!
  11. Hi Don, Seeing you put the hooks on the tent rather than on the boat triggered a thought: How about holes drilled about 1/2" deep in the underside of the gunwale, and wire bungee hooks or similar on the tent. On the plus side, there would be no visible hardware. On the minus side, the hooks would have to be kept in tension to keep them from falling out. Bungees or ribs in the roof would work. $0.02 Bob
  12. Sometimes you just need a little batch of epoxy, and the pumps would squirt too much. I use a little pocket scale ($10 to $15) with a chart like this: https://s3.amazonaws.com/duckbbs/supplies/epoxy/epoxy_weight_ratio.pdf to measure out the resin & hardener.
  13. They're sold as kayak lashing hooks. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/RLECS-Lashing-J-Shaped-Boating-Accessory/dp/B082TTWCF6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=kayak+nylon+hooks&qid=1632697601&sr=8-3
  14. Hi Padre, I have an unconventional rig on my CS15, so my solutions won't apply across the board. When I stop to camp, the lug flops down into lazy jacks. The tent hangs from the bottom of the boom and is stretched fore & aft between the main and the mizzen. Ties on the tent roof go up and around the boom & sail to hold the tent up and bundle the sail. Fiberglass rods (driveway markers) spread the roof and flex down to hold the tent sides in tension. The mosquito netting is a box-shaped net that I picked up from Wal-Mart and just tied in at the corners.
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