Jump to content


  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


meester last won the day on January 21 2021

meester had the most liked content!

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Gaithersburg, MD
  • Interests
    Nimrod SoF canoe, puddle duck, Core Sound 15 in progress

Recent Profile Visitors

3,912 profile views

meester's Achievements


Collaborator (7/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator
  • Conversation Starter

Recent Badges



  1. Hi Guys, Just wondering if you oriented the glass cloth "on the bias" with the threads running diagonally across the fish-shape's spine or "straight" with threads going parallel to the spine and other threads going down and around like ribs? My experience is that laying the glass on the bias will conform to complex shapes well, but that the cloth gets a little harder to handle because it's so stretchy along the diagonal. Bob
  2. This is one of those "well, I did this other thing" posts. I decided on 1/4" HDPE plastic for a keel strip, because its cheap and I knew I would cringe over grinding away a metal strip on ramp pavement or whatever. I used G-flex epoxy and flame-treated the plastic to help the epoxy stick. I figured the plastic would be a little slipperier for launching and retrieving off the trailer, but I don't know whether that's actually the case. Three seasons- so far so good. Bob
  3. @Don Silsbe I'm not an expert in electrochemistry but I play one on TV. I got curious about how galvanization works. I learned somewhere that the corrosion protection in galvanized steel comes from having the zinc coating corrode away before the steel gets attacked. It's the same principle as a bolt-on sacrificial zinc anode, but in coating form. But I also I read on some galvanization vendors' websites that the zinc oxide forms a tight barrier that slows corrosion, which might explain why parts are galvanized after they've been cut and formed. And while I was googling around, I also learned that aluminum sacrificial anodes are available, so maybe aluminum isn't so bad. For practical purposes, it probably doesn't matter. How many times a year is your trailer going to get dipped in salt water anyways? Just hose it off when you get home. Bob
  4. I thought it might be the tightened nuts causing the crack, but whatever the cause, those plates will help distribute the load. The crack doesn't look like it runs very far back, so it might not be a big deal at all. Another approach to stabilize the crack might be to run a bolt or threaded rod athwartships(?) through the base board and two cheeks. Consider galvanized steel for the material in order to avoid corrosion at the junction of dissimilar metals. My shins already hurt thinking about those sharp metal corners sticking out just over the edge of the trailer frame. I'm a klutz and I have the scars to prove it!
  5. Wonderful. Delightful. Inspiring. This thread is giving me grins. Keep up the good work!
  6. Hi Don, Seeing you put the hooks on the tent rather than on the boat triggered a thought: How about holes drilled about 1/2" deep in the underside of the gunwale, and wire bungee hooks or similar on the tent. On the plus side, there would be no visible hardware. On the minus side, the hooks would have to be kept in tension to keep them from falling out. Bungees or ribs in the roof would work. $0.02 Bob
  7. Sometimes you just need a little batch of epoxy, and the pumps would squirt too much. I use a little pocket scale ($10 to $15) with a chart like this: https://s3.amazonaws.com/duckbbs/supplies/epoxy/epoxy_weight_ratio.pdf to measure out the resin & hardener.
  8. They're sold as kayak lashing hooks. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/RLECS-Lashing-J-Shaped-Boating-Accessory/dp/B082TTWCF6/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=kayak+nylon+hooks&qid=1632697601&sr=8-3
  9. Hi Padre, I have an unconventional rig on my CS15, so my solutions won't apply across the board. When I stop to camp, the lug flops down into lazy jacks. The tent hangs from the bottom of the boom and is stretched fore & aft between the main and the mizzen. Ties on the tent roof go up and around the boom & sail to hold the tent up and bundle the sail. Fiberglass rods (driveway markers) spread the roof and flex down to hold the tent sides in tension. The mosquito netting is a box-shaped net that I picked up from Wal-Mart and just tied in at the corners.
  10. I decided to sew my tent from fire-retardant material. Unlike land-camping, there's no fire exit on a boat. I installed nylon hooks under my gunwale to hold the edges down. My hull is dark blue and the hooks are black so they aren't too ugly IMO. Pro tip: Install any zippers with the handles on the INSIDE. Bob
  11. I tried vegetable oil recently, and it worked really well. I knew about using vegetable oil to help get adhesive and sticky stuff off of glass, but i found that it works pretty well with epoxy/skin. I dab on a little oil, scrub, and then use soap & water to get rid of the oil. I think the oil coats little glue globs when you scrub and doesn't allow them to re-stick. Waterless cleaner would be my #1 choice since that's what Gougeon Bros recommend, but in a pinch, there's always some oil in the kitchen.
  12. I wonder if the schooner sail plan is just the result of someone putting up the sails in the wrong positions. I built my CS15 to have a lug yawl sail plan. The configuration works well for dinghy cruising with a clear cockpit and convenient tent poles. I'm not sure what kind of information you're looking for, but I'd be happy to answer any questions. Bob
  13. Chick is right about keeping your weight near the center thwart, at least when sailing solo. Too far back, and the transom gets down in the water creating turbulence and drag. For my CS15, I made my first tiller too short and had to reach back to get the trim right. To compensate, I made my 2nd tiller too long. Too long is when it's awkward to shift across the cockpit when tacking and jibing. Also, if you make the tiller long, its easy to make it shorter. Not so, the other way 'round, I found. My tiller pivots up like the ones above. Sometimes it's nice to just push it up and out of the way. Drill, epoxy fill, drill and a 1/4 -20 SS bolt. Bob
  14. Hi Steve, For what it's worth, this is my next build - the West Mersea Duck Punt. It's not an ultralight, but it can be cartopped and it is dead simple. There's no dagger/center/lee board or keel, and you steer with a paddle or short oar. You heel it over on it's hard chine to go upwind. https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/milgate-duck-punt/ Also check out the YouTube channel of "lurch1e" for sailing videos. There are plans in a couple of places online - the original design by John Milgate and a an incomplete stitch and glue development by "Flo-mo." Let me know if you'd like more info. Best Regards, Bob
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.