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Jknight611 last won the day on September 28

Jknight611 had the most liked content!

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About Jknight611

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  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 11/01/1953

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    South Coast
  • Interests
    Flying, sailing, motorcycles
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  1. Hi all, we traditionally sail our CS20.3 before and after the Messabout but this year..... she will be resting beside her big sister, (brother?) while we solicit B&B expertise pouring the lead keel for Mathew Flinders. probably should resurrect the Flinders thread with some fresh pictures.
  2. Gravel in the buckets looks like it works good, I filled a bunch of food grade buckets with fancy O ring lids with water, and you know what happened. 10 buckets, one failure. 5 gallons is a lot of water!
  3. Me too, I tried to dye my epoxy white for the water tanks on the boat I am currently building. Didn’t work for squat! On my Core Sound I bought Sherwin Williams paint called Tile Clad to paint the under deck areas, it is epoxy based 2 part and it 4 years of hard play still looks good. I am going to paint several areas on Mather Flinders with Tile Clad, good stuff.
  4. A picture is worth a thousand words, particularly on this topic, I will roll my boat out tomorrow and raise the masts and snap some photos. I never go forward to reef, by the time it occurs to me to reef, the foredeck or forward hatch isn’t where my plump butt needs to be! Gravity likes me enough that if solo, my weight that far forward really upsets the stability. This is the 27th version of my reefing system and it seems to work the best of the previous 26 attempts. If I sheet the mizzen down tight on centerline, board full down, it just kinda gives up and stays bow on the wind. The mizzen is easy to reef, standing forward of the mizzen tabernacle. Photos tomorrow if it would help anyone.
  5. Steve the boat looks great, and I see it sails beautifully too! We have removed our gps on Southern Express, the mast head wind indicator seems to be much more accurate, always points to the destination! My reefing “system” is very similar to what Paul said... my criteria was to be able to reef the boat standing in front of the mizzen tabernacle. The main has 3 downhauls at the mast then ran to the port cabin top. The main halyard has one red thread woven through it for one reef, so I release the main to one thread at the cleat on the cabin top then pull the reefing line, followed by the first reefing line (green tracer) on the sprit, the second reef is the same (except for 2 red threads woven through the halyard) and a red reefing line on the leech. I have only reefed to the second reef on the main once. All my reefing lines have “S” hooks and stay attached to the sprit to be quickly hooked to the kringles on the clew. The “S” hooks hook to the luff kringle as the sail is fed into the track. Only one downhaul on the mizzen clew, easy to move it up as you reef, still the same 2 lines with “S” hooks for the mizzen leach . I made little bags for the reefing line to be stored in when we trailer, other wise after a brief trailer ride the reefing lines become macrame! Hope that gives you an idea of our “ sail reduction system “ I reef the main pretty soon, the boat (and Carol) likes the boat to stand up.
  6. Your boat looks great! I really like your anchor roller, I have a Ronca anchor and you look like you have the best anchor roller. I believe it would work perfectly on the Mathew Flinders. I leave the sprits with the mast, I use several pieces of pipe insulation to isolate the sprits from the mast. We have trailered our boat likely 20,000 miles with no ill effects I can see. It does make rigging ridiculously quick and I never found a really suitable spot for the unattached sprits. I made a zip on cover that covers both masts, keeps the reefing lines from becoming a big rats nest. I leave the battens in the sail and just zip the sail into the same sail cover we use......well as a sail cover.
  7. Hi Mark, when we poured the one for my boat, we built plywood the mold “vertically “. Put a layer of green sand then held the wooden mold in sand vertically adding sand layer at a time. Pack the sand with a wooden dowel and hammer as you continue to fill the mold. Once the mold is full, packed as tight as possible. Then pull the wooden pattern from the sand. Make darn sure the sand is dry then pour the molten lead into the mold. It was surprisingly smooth, it took very little prepping afterwards to bond it to the bast of the centerboard.
  8. Joe, looks fantastic! Thanks for the photos
  9. Mark, the centerboard is the tool that helps ya go upwind. Not sure why you want it bright, the only time I see mine is maybe once a year when I drop it for a visual inspection. ( I use it to pinstripe the Gulf of Mexico ).
  10. Well, I use topping lifts, so convenient when we reef, just harden the topping lift, let the halyard drop to the marks on the halyard then pull the reefing lines, release the topping lift, then tidy up the sail as you wish. Prevents the sail gathering in the cockpit while you reef without the topping lift holding the sprit up. When we trailer, I pull the sprits to the top of the mast with the topping lifts, then pull the snotter tight to hold the sprit parallel the masts. Once the masts are lowered and in their crutches, a couple pieces of foam pipe insulation prevents chafe with several bungee cords. We trailer with the sprits in place, and use the sailcovers to keep the sails protected in the cabin. All the reefing lines remain on the sprits or mast, and a full length cover over the masts and sprits help prevent the reefing lines from becoming a macrame class.
  11. Fantastic Steve and Family! Just gets better from here on! Ya got a great boat!
  12. Congratulations Steve! Looking forward to seeing the video! Fun times ahead!
  13. Mark, so far the only resemblance I noticed is they are both cat-ketch rigged sailboats! I hope it performs similar to our CS20.3!
  14. Mark, I have a ski boat ballast pump in the port lazarette my CS20.3 with a 3/4 inch bronze thru hull the aft port side of the centerboard case. I also have a 3 way diverter valve in the locker with a small hose to rinse the cockpit and clean the occasional fish. 4 years later still working fine. I plumbed it with pvc pipe but if I did it over I would consider pex, to eliminate some fittings. The gentle bends of the pex probably flow better too. I didn’t use a thru hull shut off valve, seemed to be overkill. Where my intake port is there is so little hydrostatic pressure, and if it totally failed the locker might get 4 inches of water in it, didn’t seem necessary. I do have to watch using the centerboard as a depth sounder, it gets muddy then the ballast tank gets muddy and it is I PIA to clean out.
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