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Jknight611 last won the day on January 1

Jknight611 had the most liked content!

About Jknight611

  • Birthday 11/01/1953

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    South Coast
  • Interests
    Flying, sailing, motorcycles
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  1. We have lowered both masts on my CS20.3, not hard at all, as long as there isn’t much rolling of the hull. (Water needs to be pretty smooth, just takes 4-5 minutes) We put on a show at a water front restaurant when we lowered our masts to duck under a train bridge in place of waiting till the scheduled opening time.
  2. Hi Don, PM the details please, I currently plan on an epoxy primer/Awlgrip system.
  3. Thanks so much everyone, working on masts now, maybe in a week or so I can show you what it looks like with masts up!
  4. And the name shall be “KALOS”. In the New Testament, Greek lexicon beautiful, handsome, excellent, eminent, choice, surpassing, precious, useful, suitable, commendable, admirable beautiful to look at, shapely, magnificent good, excellent in its nature and characteristics, and therefore well adapted to its ends genuine, approved precious And who doesn’t think their boat is all that!
  5. The hull is nearly completed, just some fiddly stuff to complete, another coat of varnish in the cabin, and touch up some paint. Masts are nearing completion. A few minor trailer things to resolve. Then on to a travelift so we can complete the Coppercoat and see the centerboard go up an down!
  6. Just about time to update my build photos of the Flinders project. I’ll be putting it on the trailer this week, then completing the masts. The big solar panel on the cabin powers the Torqeedo, there will be 2 on the stern rails to power the cabin house load. Someday I’ll take photos with all the clutter picked up…..no, that is my version of picked up!
  7. Hi Don, Thanks for the tip! The new hardware has a MUCH higher finish, (it’s shiny) and the galling issue has abated. I am sure being stainless it is possible but with the original hardware practically every fastener was effected. Fortunately my keel on the Flinders is attached with the gourmet hardware, 2 inches of fiberglass and a epoxy bed, any one of which should make the lead arrive the same time as the rest of the boat!
  8. Thanks Mark, I have been using Grainger with fairly good results. It is has been a problem getting quality hardware! Long drive for you but the Messabout is a great time!
  9. Hi all, in building our Flinders 246 I have developed a respect for quality hardware. I had used some stainless steel bolts from our favorite point and click online retailer that would break so easily I was concerned they were made of compressed pasta. I removed all the what later I found out was sold as 18-8 stainless. Replaced all the hardware on previously installed and found this wasn’t really unusual for galling/breakage of the chinesiem hardware. I replaced all the hardware with 316 stainless hardware, (still probably imported) the strength/cost ratio is favorable!
  10. Hi Steve, we have narrowed the name down to 23 different names, but yet may change our collective minds. So, not really!
  11. Thanks Ken an Joe, progress has been a little slo lately, many different excuses! But back on track!
  12. After all the priming an sanding I couldn’t figure out a reasonable way to paint all in one shot. So I painted the hull, will give the paint a day or two to get used to not being in a can, then drape the hull then shoot the deckhouse.
  13. Sounds like a reasonable scheme to me, the “art” of boatbuilding sometimes seems to be the art of injuneerin workarounds. Brush some unthickened epoxy, followed by thickened, glass, unthickened to fill the glass, epoxy primer who would know!
  14. I like the mount, very nice! Bronze is practically the perfect metal on boats. On your plan of removing the motor, I made a multipurpose socket on the transom of my CS20.3 with the intention of removing the 2.5 Suzuki when underway. I think that happened exactly twice, once still in the marina for a week long trip. Even the 2.5 Suzuki is heavy hanging over the transom, and the chance of dropping it or gouging the deck/sole with the scag. Just didn’t work for me!
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