Don Silsbe

I will apologize in advance for adding confusion to your plan. Why are you glassing the outside? Three coats of epoxy and taped seams is all you need glassing just adds more weight. It all depends on the service the boat will be subjected to. If it is going to be dragged o to rocks a lot, then I’d go with Dynel, but that will really add weight. Some coat the bottoms with epoxy thickened with graphite powder.

@Murray— Those are floorboards that can be relocated up to fill in the forward area. I still haven’t sailed her yet, but I think my First Mate will appreciate them. The attached photo shows her favorite sailing posture. To me, they’re a little heavy and clunky. (The floorboards, that is.) I might replace them with prettier ones, but that will come after the messabout. (Still talking about the floorboards.)

Thanks for sharing this, Andy. I’m slogging away on my refurb. This is inspiring.

@Reacher— I love that compass! @Paul356— I like the box idea. I just might copy that one.

I’m already planning to buy a sheet of Okoume at the Messabout. I think I can build four replacements for less than half the cost of one of those plastic hatches. That’s my plan, unless someone here can talk me off the bridge.

@Paul356— You ran all your downhauls through one big fairlead. That’s brilliant! After all, only one at a time will be in tension, right?

The centerboard trunk is ready to receive the revitalized board. I just need to cut a pivot bolt to the correct length. One thing I did was dig into the seat hatches. This boat was built by Great Falls, and it was apparent right from the start that they had deviated from the plans. These hatches had no seals or provisions for them!Notice the lack of sides on the seat hatch. As I dug deeper, I found more discrepancies. The framing was all 1/4” plywood, with no solid lumber being used. Looks like they made a plywood box, and glued and taped it to the underside of the seat top. This is looking up from inside the tank. (I had to eat mushrooms and become small to do this.) The hinges were attached with machine screws and nuts. The nuts interfered with the framing, preventing a good seal, if you even tried to add one. I think the only thing to do is to tear this all out, and make it according to the plans. I wonder if I can insert the sub assembly into the hole. In the meantime, I will apply 3/16” weatherstrip tape around the periphery and between the nuts, to slow down water intrusion in the event of capsize. On a lighter note, I should be able to take her sailing in a few days.

Wow! She’s a big-un!

She moved along nicely. Pretty boat, pretty location. I’m sure you’ll be enjoying those waters in the years to come.

I’m back from my galavanting around. I have been spending time on my 17, finally. Today was a mixture of that and giving the travel trailer a good wash-down. The centerboard trunk is almost ready for the centerboard. I am adding the o-ringed puck pivot seal for ease of service. I’m half done with the masthead float. I’m also adding two pop-up cleats to the aft quarter, in hopes of eliminating the U-bolts on the transom. Those always seemed to snag my mizzen sheet, while tacking. Tomorrow, I’ll take photos. My first objective is to add safety features (plus the cleats). Next, I need to work on the seat hatches. Currently they are not air tight. I’ll be adding the boarding ladder next. That will make her safe enough for my peace of mind.

I’ve got a large off-brand model built in Spain. I will mount it somewhere forward of the mizzen, more in my natural field of view. It will be removable. Most of my sailing will continue to be daysailing on a reservoir. No need for a compass most of the time.

I wonder what the details are about polishing the Schaefer track. Anybody?

I like to minimize the amount of metal on my boats. I like to think that the cringle at the reef point is sufficient for the purpose. No clipping is necessary. The only metal I intend to have on my sprits will be the cheek blocks for reefing, and the clam cleats. Stay tuned to my refurb thread on this forum. By the way, I always reserve the right to be wrong. What I like about wooden boats is the ability to try different things, using filler and paint to erase bad ideas.

I removed the loops on the leech of my sails (at the reef points). I plan to change to the modern slab reefing setup, once I get the centerboard taken care of. I’ll probably go to the messabout with single reefs and peeling paint. Time will tell. I’ll keep you posted on my refurb. thread.

Two winters ago, I was privileged to be loaned PadrePoint’s Avocet for some winter cruising in Florida. This is how he and I set the boat up and furled the sails for the evening.

When I re-bed my keel strip, I will drill out the holes oversized, and fill them with epoxy thickened with WEST 404 filler. Then, I’ll screw stainless steel screws into that without any goop.

You’re scaring me with that last comment, Andy! LOL When I repaint Windependent, after the Messabout, I will do something along these lines. Unfortunately, she currently had NO brightwork, which breaks my heart. Some brightwork is good to have. I had a lot on Local Honey. Since she was covered with an opaque tarp, I never had a problem with peeling varnish. Every year or three I’d give her two fresh coats. That was it. Nowadays I use only two-part polyurethane for my boats. One-part poly just isn’t as durable against abrasion & scratches. Norkan in Warren, MI carries it. Don’t believe the web site: https://www.norkan.com/Norkan_Store/search/results?search_in_description=1&zenid=9loa7b2a5q6sjq7kdhu9r7iuu5&keyword=Devoe+379 They are not sold out. Call George Spiteri, and he will mix you up what you need. George Spiteri Norkan by Jon-Don 25200 East Street Warren, MI 48089 586-350-2340 direct 313-720-8565 mobile

What a project!!! I will be building alongside you, vicariously. I have several non-related questions. Please email me . Donsilsbe@gmail.com.

Nice job! Once the epoxy cures, you may remove the screws and fill the holes with epoxy. Their job is done. From now on, they only serve as a way for water to seep in and cause rot.

I wonder when this will be off the drawing board and into production. I might need this on mine, when I add the tabernacle.

@Andy B— You are spot on with that assessment. These guys are awesome! I just hope I can get this feature baked into my tabernacle installation.

@Dnjost— your c/b looks like mine did. Now, I need to reinstall it, once I get home from my travels.

@Hirilonde—That thought has definitely crossed my mind. I prefer a tilt-up rudder anyway. Dnjost is also right. With good hatch floatation seals and a masthead float, the area should be dry, except of rain seepage. (And there has been a little of that.). Not sure what I’ll get done before the messabout back there. Perhaps a makeshift seal and swing that rudder. Not an easy task, as it is glued to the rudder. Guess I’m gonna be Rambo with the chainsaw, power planer, and belt sander!

I share these images to ensure that we’re on the same page.

I agree, with one exception. A white bilge makes it easier to find things, if you do have access to that area.