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Don Silsbe

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Everything posted by Don Silsbe

  1. I’be always been leery of the 5:1 product. The epoxies I’ve used on the past have been sensitive to keeping the proportions precise. I’d be afraid of being off when there would be a big squirt of one, and a little squirt of another. But I’ve not worked with the 5:1. It’s not worth it to me to invest a lot of money to try it out. I’ve had good results with MAS, West, Raka, System 3, and B&B. West seemed to have the most odor, followed by MAS. But they all worked. I could not tell the difference in the final product. Don’t waste time worrying over the epoxy. Save that energy for the paint decision.
  2. @Mike Vacanti— Yikes! That is expensive. That inspires to get creative. I wonder how many pounds of floatation is recommended for a 15-17’ boat? Oh, I see. 30 pounds. That equates to just under 0.5 cubic feet of foam. Hmm…
  3. Good choice. It will allow you to sail longer in life. I suppose I’ll be a victim of the old adage— “Old sailors never die, they just get a little dinghy.” Or maybe I can find a nursing home with a boat dock. (Monday morning black humor. LOL)
  4. She’s looking fine, Mark. The boat, I mean. And I did try heaving to with blades up. It didn’t work for me.
  5. You’re starting to scare me, Randy Jones. Just joking. Actually, I love it when people think outside the box.
  6. Losing count is irrelevant, if you alternate between A and B. You know: 1 A, 1B 2A, 2B 3A, 3B I think you get the idea.
  7. I use these for mixing micro batches of epoxy. I got a sleeve of them at a drug store
  8. I think the float would be more effective on the main mast. My anchor light is on a pig stick that I raise up my mizzen.
  9. There are a lot of boats on the water that have been built with B&B epoxy. It works well, and is reasonably priced. I’ve also used Raka epoxy, which is lower in price. They make up for it in shipping cost, though. I have two routers. My 1/2” router is cumbersome. It stays on the router table. Most of the time, I reach for this little 1/4” baby router. Alan put me onto it, when he used it on that Core Sound 15 build video. It’s all you need. And you don’t need a fancy table saw. A friend of mine nut a Spindrift 12 using a little 8” table saw. And be sure to watch Eric Blake’s video on epoxy on the Offcenter Harbor website. And Bill Thomas’ series on building the Fox canoe also has great techniques in it. Russel Brown’s technique using Peel Ply is worth considering in areas that you may varnish. I used that technique in my last build, a CLC Annapolis Wherry. https://youtube.com/shorts/-zDRrK8SfZo?feature=share Otherwise, I’s stick with glass tape and a good random orbital sander. Don’t sweat the small stuff. Ask us questions. It’ll turn out great. Your biggest problem with this build will be sorting through our assorted recommendations, and choosing the one that’s right for you. Enjoy the process!
  10. That’s right, Weezer, we all make mistakes. What makes one skillful is how they manage the mistake.
  11. We did, thank you. Hope you did the same.
  12. I can only see two downsides to putting a tabernacle on your Lapwing. Graham mentioned the mast rotation factor. Also, the tabernacle adds “visual mass”, and I prefer a cleaner looking deck. But, if you’re comfortable with the aesthetics, and adjust tour rig for no mast rotation, then go for it. The convenience would probably worth it.
  13. Alan has put together an index of build logs off this forum. Unfortunately, it’s buried on page 5. I wish there was some way for it to be pinned up at the top of page one. Try this link: Also, if you enjoy watching videos, and don’t mind spending the money, there are many excellent boatbuilding videos on offcenterharbor.com. Russel Brown’s series on mastering epoxy is wonderful. He is meticulously neat with his epoxy. His method differs a little from what most of us do (as in Alan’s videos). But he is so methodical. The plans come with instructions that include a list of recommended tools. A small block plane is all you need, not a power planer. I wouldn’t be without my random orbital sander that attaches to my shop vac. And your respirator should have cartridges for organic vapors. All are available at lumber yards. The biggest tool you need access to is a table saw. They are used for cutting up gunwales and cleats, and making the cuts for scarf joints. Where do you live? Maybe one of us is nearby, and can look over your shoulder from time to time. Finally, B&B is the best place to buy your supplies and hardware from. But they don’t carry paint and varnish. Painted surfaces require much less attention than varnished. We’ll get to brand names later. Welcome to the forum!
  14. I saw this about a year ago. It was good to review it. Thanks, Ted.
  15. @Andy B— Thanks for the feedback. I just keep looking at all those Roger Barnes videos. He looks so snug in his little housie. Doesn’t need to go outside to make coffee or anything. I just need to work on my sewing technique. It’s gonna take at least one zipper. Hmm…
  16. This is what I learned from sleeping two nights with my BRS15 camp-cruise setup. 1. Doing this in the rain would be miserable. All my cooking was done outside, unprotected. And the tent would get drenched by taking it up or down. At very least, I need more towels, to sop up the water. And maybe an awning. 2. I did a lot of crawling around on my knees. Not ideal, when you’re over 70. 3. With the tent back that far, it would be difficult to fire up the Suzuki, and make adjustments to your anchorage. 4. Access to my “stuff” was limited. The starboard seat hatch was easily accessible. Accessing the port hatch required exiting the tent, and crawling around the forward end of the tent to the port side. If I had bought a tent with two doors, this would not have been a problem. 5. All my cooking gear was under the starboard side of the forward panel. That was OK, but not ideal. The tent and sleeping stuff was to port. The yoga mat ended up being as hard as a rock. 6. I did not capsize, but I took on a lot of water, motoring upwind and back to the shop. My gear remained “dry enough”, but made me think more about waterproof storage. I had purchased two small dry bags at Cabelas on the way to the messabout. They kept my clothes nice and dry. If I plan to go out for more than two nights, I need more of these. 7. Most importantly, this trip taught me the value of organization. The first night, I anchored & made camp across Chapel Creek. I could not find my phone anywhere, and my bride was expecting me to check in with her. I motored back to the dock (see note #2 above), to look for it in the truck. Nope! Finally, Sean, the guy in the trimaran called it. IT WAS RIGHT WHERE I ALWAYS PUT IT! It was in a little pocket at the aft end of the c/b trunk. But that was beneath the elevated floorboards, and not too accessible. Duh! So, the first night of “camping” was at the dock. Sorry for the long epistle, but I learned a lot on this trip, and wanted to share my lessons learned with y’all.
  17. I am about to start Chapter Two of this camp cruise setup. After two nights aboard at the 2021 Messabout, I’ve decided to abandon the one-man tent concept.. I’ll list the disadvantages below, even though I listed them in PadrePoint’s thread on this subject. Long story short, my tent has been sold to a Boy Scout friend. He got a great deal. I’m buying more coated rip stop nylon, and I’m making a full boat cover. This could get interesting, or it could be a disaster. Time will tell.
  18. @Hirilonde— I’m currently refurbishing a boat for a friend that did not use epoxy as a sealer, I think I caught it in time, however. Your treatment on the grips is interesting. I might have to try that. So far, I’ve not treated them with anything except the “oils” from my hands. @Aphers— I agree totally with Hirilonde, except for the sealer part (hulls only). Oars should only see varnish, and never on the grips.
  19. Chick used to have one. Maybe we can all work on this together.
  20. Yay! Use my email address to access my PayPal account, donsilsbe@gmail.com. Please send your snail mail address to me via email, and I’ll get these right out to you. Thanks!
  21. Storing a car in the garage? How odd! And, as an alternative, you could store the CS17.3 at my place. I’d be happy to ensure that it is in working order, by sailing her for you in the off season. No charge for storage, either!
  22. I’m tryin to consolidate my hardware stores. I love Ronstan’s Orbit series, and use them all over my boats. But I have five blocks that I will never use, so I’m selling them to anybody interested. Two of the cheek block show that I’ve attached them to something, but honestly, I don’t think they’ve ever seen the pull of a line. (3) Orbit 30 Cheek Blocks (2) Orbit 30 Blocks (Lashing) $10 each, plus shipping, or buy all five & I pay the shipping. The cheek blocks go for about $18 online, and the lashing blocks for $16. On the lashing blocks, you can utilize the hole as a becket.
  23. @Steve W— Hah! I did a stellar job of that on my skiff. I can only imagine.
  24. There are two schools of thought regarding epoxy under varnish. You may well have woken the sleeping giant. I like it, but it has a down side. Every several years, varnish should be stripped off and redone. If the base is epoxy, it’s not so easy. On the other hand, what about all those strip-built and varnished canoes? Are they all wrong? I would not do it on your masts. The wind and snotters induce a lot of bend into the masts. I’d be concerned that the epoxy-varnish would check. I’d just use varnish. Your masts are gorgeous, by the way.
  25. @Joe Anderson— Thanks for the video! It is just what I needed, to fend off Three Foot Fever. I’ll work on my seven point list instead. After all, we engineers eat problems like they’re candy.
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