Don Silsbe

She is stunning, Jay. You must be so proud. I can’t wait to see her under way.

Actually, I’ll be bringing my Two Paw 8. Hope I can keep up. I get to sleep on Ted’s 17.3, though. Oh. And since Mark, Ted, and I are DCA members, we might also call it a DCA Rally. Hope you don’t mind.

This is where I am with mine. I glued the sections together with Gorilla glue, which was what Alan used on the first one. He had since recommended unthickened epoxy. But I had already boughten the glue, so what the heck. I forgot how it expands when wet— it oozed out between the cracks. But it sanded OK. I glued in the tube and fin. Today, I taped off half of the float, and applied some thickened epoxy to the cracks and voids. I draped the cloth, on the bias, over the float, and coated half. The glass cloth worked its usual magic. It confirmed to the shape, and only needed the slightest cuts at the very front and back. I am impatient. Tonight, I trimmed part of the float. I’ll trim the rest in the morning. It is going to be awesome!

@AmosSwogger— I just noticed that beautiful box you added to your cockpit. A brilliant idea. How did you cut the inside radius— a diagonal cut on a table saw?

@Steve W— I imagine, in the grand scheme of things, what we use to glue the foam together isn’t too important. The fiberglass/epoxy shell is the master bonder here. I’m with you— glassing this teardrop makes me nervous. I’m planning to affix the fin first, and bond the whole all at once(a half at a time). I just hope someone imparts some wisdom, or shares their experience, before I get to that point.

@Hirilonde— You jogged my memory. I now remember that I glued a strip of Ash to the poplar keel of my Two Paw. Duh! But while laying on my back, making adjustments to the new trailer for my Bay River Skiff, I noticed some bare wood on the keel. It is White Oak, so I’m not too worried for the immediate future. (She is usually stored dry, on a trailer.) But I may complete my wear test. Some time ago, I epoxied some fiberglass, nylon wenbing and Dynel to strips of wood. I always intended to test them, and compare the results. I still have the strips. I just need to find the time to set up and do the testing. No rush, since I won’t repaint the boat until the registration sticker expires in 2024. @mattp— I have a feeling that the webbing and Dynel are going to do well in this test.

@Hirilonde— I agree. I always applaud thinking out of the box.

My modifications to my Two Paw 8 are slowly taking shape. In priority, they lag behind spring landscaping, prepping for camping in a week, and final preparations for a little messabout I’ve organized. But I hit it a lick now and then. I’m working on the floatation tanks at the moment. I’ll open up the front seat area, and move storage to the side tanks. I’m also looking ahead to rowing seat changes, based on Tom’s Expedition TP8 at the last B&B Messabout. My rowing position is too far forward; his boat rowed much nicer than mine. Fortunately, I found a photo of his setup. I’ll use that as reference.

I just got my kit Saturday. Can’t wait to glue it up. Looks like Alan used Gorilla glue for the foam. I was thinking of Titebond III, but I’ll probably follow Alan’s lead.

@PadrePoint— yes. On my boat (see photo above), the stem meets the keel in a sharp corner. It’s not like the Core Sounds or Spindrifts, which have a curved lower bow. I’m not sure I can round this bend with hollowback.

I can see using sacrificial strips on the Two Paw. But how do I get the hollowback to round that sharp corner on my BRS15?

I’m beginning to see the value in adding a metal strip to the keel of my Two Paw and my Bay River Skiff. Here are my questions: 1) Where is a good source for buying it? 2) Should I use hollowback or half round metal, or something else? 3) Is brass OK, or should I stick with stainless? 4) What is the best way to attach it?

@PadrePoint— Yes. Sleeves are either a sock thanencloses the top of the mast, or there is a webbing strap that goes over the top. There is no halyard. Sails are slipped onto the mast from the top down. The sails are usually furled or rolled onto the mast, instead of taking them lowering them. Andy B would need a large grommet (3/4” I.D.) added to his sleeve, at least from what I can envision. On my boat, I do not have halyards, and the sail is furled. I just bought the masthead float kit. I intend to screw the shaft to the forward side of the main mast. It helps that the top section of my mast is wood, but this could also be accomplished with an aluminum mast.

I don’t think the Japanese engineers of these products have any idea how we use them here in the States.

I’m hoping for 10-12 “dips” per year. Hosing off will work with this trailer. The last was painted tubular steel. No way to hose down the insides of the tubing.

Last summer, I did a capsize test with my Two Paw 8, “Two Bits”. I found that she floated better with the temporary floatation tanks I installed. This spring, I’m building permanent tanks into the hull. Also, at the Messabout, I got to row Tom’s TP8. I was amazed at how much better it rowed than mine. His seat and oarlocks were further aft than mine, which made all the difference. I failed to get measurements of his. Is he on this forum? Is his boat available to measure? D3E001C0-368E-4CB1-B1F2-E29BFF56B100.MOV

Given the snow you had this past week, you’re gonna need to start a new thread entitled “Defrosting The Norma T”.

@meester. Glad you pointed out my little shin-jabbers. The aluminum plate was close at hand, and galvanized was not. The problem I have with using galvanized is that if I cut the end, it’ll rust. Suggestions? Also, what about all these nickel-plated fasteners? I used galvanized, where possible. But the trailer guide fasteners and all the OEM fasteners are nickel- plated.

Good point, Pete. But as a fellow engineer, you’ll appreciate the load distribution issue that I needed to solve as well. Right?

Here’s my fix. I believe it will work.

I believe it is from a bending load. This bow roller puts a downward load on the two verticals. This in turn tries to bend the 2x10 over the channel. I happen to have an aluminum plate that will be slipped in between the wood and the trailer. This will transfer the load from the vertical walls directly to the trailer. I’ll take a photo when I’m done.

Uh-oh! Guess I nee a little reinforcement.

I’m about to order a masthead float for my Bay River Skiff. Alan is working up a version that does not include the Starboard fittings. This is because the top section of my mast is solid wood. I will be screwing it to the front of the mast. Not sure if I’ll make the whole thing removable, or leave the metal tube on the mast. I could embed some threaded brass inserts into the wood. The same could be done on an aluminum mast with nutserts. While switching from my old painted trailer to a new galvanized one yesterday, I did a capsize test at the ramp. (I finally got to be a Ramp Hog, along with all the rednecks who have been doing this to me these many years.) Anyway, I got to prove to myself that the seat tanks actually do work. Time to get a masthead float.

I know that I’m touching Superman’s cape with this suggestion, but… When I installed the B&B hatches into my rowing skiff, I used these plastic hinges. They have been in use for over a year now, and get cycled all the time.

@Randy Jones— You must have the wrong person. I only run one battery, and charge it at home or at the campsite at the end of the day.9