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@Docpal— That’s a nice tent! I went with a lower cost one-man Kelty. I don’t have the courage to buy an inexpensive tent. Been there, done that in the scouts. We’ll see how she works next week, hopefully.

I am leaning towards a tabernacle on my Lapwing 16 build. Years ago I dropped the mast on my Flying Scot when I was stepping it. Wanting to avoid that unpleasant experience, a tabernacle seems like a good idea. Anybody want to chime in to talk me out of it or give 2 thumbs up. Thanks. Ken

That looks like a great tent… and premium quality. It looks like it could work… perhaps it’s too long. My guess… I won’t find one for $22.50. Thanks.

I have also tried a few solutions for the open cockpit style of boat. "Petunia" My CS 17 has a trunk cabin so I didn't really need one on her, but her Sister, Daphne , a Drascombe Dabber yawl, IS an open cockpit design so I tried using a Scottish "hoop" tent ( Vango F10 Xenon UL Tent ) which works VERY well since I also have two masts on Daphne as tying off points. Plus this is a double walled tent as rigged so there is little/NO condensation on it's walls...And one could either keep it's existing bottom intact if they had platform/ sleeping boards in place, OR cut out the bottom of the tent and have a VERY tall interior space. I have more room in the hoop style tents, than my domes. Some versions have doors at both ends.

I watched a video in which Nick Schade skins his boat with polyester and paints it with latex paint. I'd much prefer working with latex rather than alkyd, yet in this forum it was stated that latex won't work well or at all. Comments?

Some Experimenting, and my Solution I’d already tried out a free standing tent that I have, seeing how it might fit into the back of the boat. (I didn’t take a photo of this try.) Ehhh… I don’t think so, especially since the tent has a side entrance door and how would one manage that when the tent goes from one inwale to the other? A tarp-type tent might be better and I continued my search for ideas. I had recently fashioned a sleeping platform that included the aft seats. I had a couple empty days last week so I fiddled around with a couple tarps to see if I could come up with a workable idea for a tent that could support an overnight on the water. It seems this is the predominant approach used in small sailboat camp cruising (camping ashore is always a good approach, too.) I bought a big cheap Harbor Freight tarp (green) that I could cut up for a pattern. I began my experimenting by putting the mizzen mast in the forward step (in the bow thwart) and lashing the longer main sprit to the mizzen mast (while pulling the mizzen sprit up and out of the way; not sure what I could do with the sails.) Then I began some approaches of draping the green tarp over it, even making a brace to support it. I liked the standing headroom and roominess that resulted… but I envisioned a lot of challenges in making this work. I have a couple 20’ tie down straps that could be tightened around the outside of the hull to provide a place to tie the tent into. Hmmm… I don’t know. Do I really want to try making a tent pattern here? How ‘bout a more open-ended approach with a smaller sized tarp? (I use this grey tarp to cover my pop up camper in winter and it’s close to what might be needed.) Again, I liked the height and roominess and assumed I could fashion a way to tie it down to straps going around the outside of the hull. Maybe a little better than the big green tarp? Maybe use a mosquito net over a sleeping bag net inside… but would the open ends help with rain possibilities? Fashion and attach end flaps? Use a one person bivy tent under this to protect from rain? (I didn’t take a photo of trying a bivy tent; plus it needs anchoring on either end to stand it upright.) Ehhh… Extend the top of the tarp with another horizontal brace for more coverage? Ehhh… Pull everything back and over the transom for at least an overhang fore and aft of the sleeping platform? Just not doing it for me, even with some cutting and sewing. Time to again check out some small tent possibilities on-line and with Amazon. A new small tent listing appeared on Amazon that wasn’t there earlier… and it’s only $22.49. It has a “bathtub” floor that could manage rain water in the bed platform and the access door is on the end (I hadn’t yet found a small tent with these two features.). I ordered it. When it came, the tent was assembled and placed into the back on top of the sleeping platform. Yes, the sides are squeezed some to make it fit, causing the floor to be bunched up a bit… I kinda shoved the floor material under the side decks… but, yes, I think it could work. The sails could be flaked over the sprits (and lashed) and raised out of the way by the two extra halyards. Plus, I liked how this keeps everything open in the front cockpit. There is enough room in the tent to lie comfortably, well, making use of the diagonal (I’m 6’5”.) The corners of this free-standing tent can be lashed to points in the boat to manage wind. I decided that THIS will be my solution for now. I don’t think I will plan more than an overnight or two next summer, a new experience to try out.

No, just one pass with the needle. Two might look better but the stitching isn't really noticeable. If you do it right the stitching doesn't really show. Nothing wrong with sinew for sewing. I just don't like working with thread better. But I started out using sinew and it worked.

Murray- I agree. The fir is definitely a prettier wood. I did all of the trim in my house doors and the kitchen cabinets in fir. I like it. Ken

War a beautiful colour Doug Fir is.... AYC is a lovely timber, but the colour ain't as nice.

I was going to post a pic of a beautifully(?) painted white hull today. I really was. But, well it turns out Don was right. I was listening to a Pink Floyd song (yes, that dates me) , a long board with a bit of 80 grit on it in hand. I knew I would be getting close to the wood, but stepping back I saw a couple of spots where I had actually gone right through. But there were still some shiny spots nearby too. A gloss finish and a long board is a very sobering experience. There were a few other little dings I was mostly aware of, a few I hadn't seen so... I kept going... Now most of the wobbles seem to have gone - until next time huh Don? So now I guess I'll fill the dings, and put another gloss coat on. And sand that back. and repeat...? No, I think at some point you have to accept there are going to be imperfections, mistakes even, and remember it's a boat to be sailed, not an heirloom, not a piece of fine furniture. Summer is coming up, I want to get on the water - and there's still a lot of work to do. Delighted to read there is a kit coming... it might be a bit unadventurous but as Dave noted, the Lapwing is a perfect dayboat, so maybe, I can sail this one while building a second... Not sure what the marital committee would have to say about that, but forgiveness is a wonderful thing!

This may be a question for Jeff. I'm about to try your "new" technique for the main deck seams. a) After completing the seam, do you go back down it a second time to fill the stitching on the alternate side? Nick Schade runs two needles simultaneously so that both sides are filled in. b) In the video you use embroidery thread. Reasons for or against using artificial sinew instead? Thanks

I have been doing some work on the masts. The 10:1 scarfs worked out well. I cut the birds mouths but made a rookie mistake on the mizzen. Thought I could get one mast done before dinner the other night and rushed my set up. Long story short, the staves are slightly narrower than they should be but I am pretty sure it will be ok. Woodworking has a way of keeping me humble. The next is tapering the staves. I gave it a lot of thought and decided my track saw would be the best way to do it quickly and accurately. The set up took some time but then each taper takes less than a minute to cut and yields a pretty perfect taper. I did one mast so far and will do the other one later today. Well, maybe I should do it tomorrow as it is getting late and I should learn from my mistakes! I put the mizzen together without glue to check the fit and it seems pretty good. Years ago I built a 20’ strongback on wheels for my strip boat builds. It has been really handy for building these masts so far. I have been noodling on the best way to glue up the mast and the strongback will be a key player in that step as well. I am waiting for some epoxy to show up here before I can do the assembly. Won’t have it until mid week so I might start cutting wood for the centerboard. The weather here has been pretty lousy or we would be doing some short trips on Rosie. Glad to have this project to work on in these wet British Columbia days.

This guy walks up and tells me him and his wife have the Cat anchored and they have a Youtube channel and would I answer a few questions......they cut out the B & B promotion......

Of course I’m right! LOL.

That’s right. When someone is in the stern, I move to the bow. Yes, they are airtight. Most of the boats include these in their builds. It helps if you are good at origami. LOL They are a little complicated. But I like them so much that I added them to my rower.

Steve and his boat make an appearance is this video about 9:45.

I was thinking about the smallest Yeti, not what was in the picture. Yes, they can get pretty heavy. Those hatches would be the ticket to create storage under the seats and I assume that they maintain the flotation properties and keep things dry. Don it looks like you have two rowing positions in the two paw. Not ever having owned a row boat before is that for when/if you had another passenger in the boat?

I’m planning on arriving Wednesday afternoon. If I can get some last-minute stuff done, I’ll sleep on my boat Wednesday and Thursday. For the weekend, I’m moving ashore to my traditional large encampment. Others are welcome to pitch their tents on another side of the shade awning. This is what it’ll look like on Friday.

Well, I like the way you think! But coolers tend to be a bit heavy for these small boats. And my Yeti weighs as much as a large dog. But anything is possible, within reason. The lads at B and B have come up with some nifty self-sealing hatches for those seat tanks. But the simplest way to go is with an Armstrong hatch. These work like a champ. B and B might even carry them. I have both on my Bay River skiff. https://www.fisheriessupply.com/armstrong-nautical-round-watertight-compression-deck-plates

Here is a question for those who have built one of these. Would there be enough room in the rear near the transom to drop in a cutout for a cooler or fuel tank? I have a penchant for storage places so that nothing is without a place, also in the event of a capsize I don't want to lose everything.

It would be really great if I could get storage at Lake Julian. This year when I checked it was full, so I will continue to try, but plan on using the Tanzer to get out on the water while I build the new boat. Based on the feedback, the standard version would be the winner hands down. Good to know that I could tow the boat with little issue at some point. However, I suspect that after I get more experience and a few years down the road my needs may change. If I am going to take the time to build a boat I plan on keeping it for a long time and would love to get the grandkids on it to teach them as well.

What Don said! (lots of free advice on this forum). If your Tanzer is a 16, with some pre-rigging you can get rigging time down to less than 30 minutes, and if the sailing club has parking the boat can be left rigged on the trailer and you can put on the sails and be in the water quickly. I did that with my Tanzer 16 and was sailing more quickly than for any boat I have owned since.

If it were me, I’d join that nice little sailing club now. Lake Julian is a nice little lake. Then, I’d buy an old beater temporary daysailer, just to get on the water fast. If you start building one (which I LOVE doing), you’re gonna lose a whole year. That’s my bad advice for the week!

I think whatever approach you decide you would have the skill to make it happen. For me, the real key to gaining needed skills was going through Alan’s video series (on B&B’s CS15 page if you haven’t seen them yet) in which he demonstrates a LOT of the building processes for B&B boats. And, good luck with certifications.