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I have an Optima battery that I use on my Bay River Skiff, when I use my trolling motor. But it is WAY too heavy for a Spindrift. I also have a small motorcycle battery that I can use for small electronics and charging my phone. That is what I’d suggest for a depth sounder on a Spindrift.

Also, there are dinghy cruisers in the UK that put a car-sized battery in a box and use to to power a chart plotter. Like Roger barnes: https://www.dinghycruising.org.uk/uploads/7/6/9/7/76979649/my_seagoing_dinghy_roger_barnes.pdf

@Don Silsbe I appreciate the cost concern. I even sought out used hardware. I will never compromise on main sheet lay out. It is vital to me to relax and enjoy myself as well as a safety issue IMO.

@Hirilonde— One of the things I appreciate about Graham is is concern for cost. Those Ronstan RF-58’s now cost $75 apiece. The Clamcleats are only $11. I started with a pair of Clamcleats for the main, but didn’t like the restricted angle required to cleat the sheet. You had to line things up just right to get it in. I don’t know of anyone who uses them for the mainsheets.

I knew I would arrange my main sheeting that way before I bought the plans. In any real wind I must have the sheet coming to me so I can either hold it at the ready, or lay it across my leg at the almost instantly ready. Knowing I can dump the main in a split second means I can relax and enjoy myself. This is probably the only detail I disagree with Graham about.

Thank you all for the replies! That was VERY helpful. We have the lines now for the bottom paint, and can add the lines for the boot stripe. We want to put bottom paint on for two reasons: first, where we live, at the base of Puget Sound, barnacles attach very quickly to the bottom of boats. Second, we hope to do some lengthy cruises in this boat. (We have been cruising in a Scamp, so the CS17 will be spacious.) I'm going to look into that Devoe's Devthane 379. Mark, your boat is beautiful.

@Murray— Local Honey is a multi-purpose craft. I love sailing, but I also love fishing. I widened the hatches from standard, so I could store fishing rods into either compartment. She is a Bay River Skiff, the predecessor to the Core Sound series, and the first of Graham’s cat ketches. (I love this boat!) Here are some photos for you. Fishing Mode: Rowing Mode: Sailing Mode: This is how my First Mate likes to sail: And my favorite sailing posture, at least when my First Mate is lying so far forward. Note the revised sheeting arrangement:

I'm not sure this is relevant to a Spindrift, but......here's what I did on Skeena:

@Don Silsbe Interesting pic Don - your side hatches seem wide? We're looking after grandchild #4 while grandchild #6 is being delivered so I don't have access to plans nor me boat. Does that one hatch allow access to the two side compartments? I think the only pic I've seen of your boat. Forgot to add, we live in New Zealand.

Yeah, like Don, no bottom paint, for the same reason

Hey Don - only once sailed a CoreSound 15 that my brother in law built some time back. We went out in a stiff 20+ knots, puffing towards 25. Upwind was hard work, and yes I agree the main is sufficiently larger than the mizzen so that was the one you played, but I found holding both sheets in one hand and the tiller in t'other allowed tidy progress. I used his tiller extension so that hand was semi available to assist with major sheeting movements. BiL was best employed hanging on. (really hope he is not reading this...!) Downwind was however a great surprise. I was showing BiL how to balance a boat downwind by sailing on the leech of the main, with the mizzen out the other side and largely ignored. The tiller went light as a really solid puff hit - guessing close to 30 knots. BiL is not so experienced so I was thinking this could get interesting - but to my delight, the boat flattened out to a balanced plane and we had a fantastic ride. In that much wind, the waves were getting up - nothing serious but you needed to steer through them, and the core sound was totally manageable. So, no while I don't have much experience of a cat ketch, I got a taste of the potential, sufficient to attempt to build one.

Morocco! A few years since I was there - just loved the markets. What takes you there Dave? @Hirilonde It's not OCD, it's CDO - IT HAS TO BE ALPHABETICAL... from one who knows...

Murray- Glad you took the time to look at the video. I always appreciate constructive input. I have sailed Lula a few more times and have fine tuned some technique. I agree with Don that the mizzen doesn’t need as much attention as I would have thought. Still playing with snotter tension but haven’t messed with the battens. One of the wonderful things about sailing is you can be chill or obsessive and still have a good time. I vacillate between the two. Looking forward to your observations when you get some time on your Lapwing. Dave - Morocco sounds pretty exotic. Would like to see your boat pics when you return and hear about travel in Morocco.

Samantha, This may be faster for you. Click on How best and it all should come up.

Samantha, If you search "how to apply the perfect waterline" this should come up. It will help if you read all the post (9 I think). Designer Members Supporting Member 1.7k Website: http://www.bandbyachtdesigns.com Location: Vandemere, NC Posted March 21, 2020 (edited) Amos, We do, here is that link. Edited March 21, 2020 by Designer fix it

Jacking up an end could be a good approach. Never thought of that. My floor is level enough that I could have used it to make a straight line along the sides. The dimensions from bow to waterline and transom to waterline should be somewhere in the plans and a bit of math would reveal appropriate and relative heights of bow and stern from the floor. NICE to see your progress on your build.

Most of us do not use bottom paint, since we trailer our boats. Bottom paint is only necessary if they remain in the water for a length of time. I’d use Easypoxy on the whole boat. I hope everybody else following this thread either concurs or disagrees with me for Samantha’s benefit. As far as waterline goes, jack up one end or the other to make the boat’s waterline (per the plans) parallel with the floor.

I am in Morocco, so watching videos is tedious. I found the top 2, full length fiberglass battens too stiff for light to moderate winds. I spent a lot of time playing around with Maple, making them of various thicknesses and tapering to thin from a few inches aft of the leading end back to about 1/4 way aft. I am not usually OCD, but when it comes to sail shape, bah, even the rest of the boat, I am a fanatic. I am pleased with the result. The amount of bend can then be adjusted by the tension applied by the Velcro strap holding them in. If you want more info I can post pictures when I get home.

I added floorboards to my Lapwing in the aft portion of cockpit. Not for support, but to stay above the bit of water that always seems to be present. I never put them in my Spindrift 9. No real need, and added weight I did not want. It is easy to turn the boat over if any water, unlike my Lapwing. BTW, I did not glass either boat. I did not want the added weight. Light is faster.

We decided to put System 3 Pennant Primer on first, which is all done and looks pretty good. I think we are gong to go with Seahawk AF33 for bottom paint, and Pettit EZPoxy for top coat. The big quandary right now is how to figure out where to put the waterline, and therefore where to stop the bottom paint. We have looked at the plans, and see the line drawn on there. Our upside down boat is not particularly level right now, so we are not sure how to proceed. Any suggestions?

Why has nobody answered you? I’ve sailed an Amanda once, and bottom flex was not noticeable. I suggest saving the floorboard thing for later, if you feel its necessary at all. Core Sound 15’s and 17’s have 1/4” plywood bottoms, and do not flex. I think you’re gonna be fine without them. But nicely oiled cedar slats really set off a boat…

@Murray— I started with the mizzen sheet running up the sprit, but changed it back to the recommended way. After talking with cat ketch owners (and designers), I learned that the power is in the main, and the mizzen is secondary. constant tweaking of the mizzen is not necessary. I focus on trimming the main, and then adjusting the mizzen mainly for balance. Again— this is not a Laser. She will be fast, but not as touchy to tweaking as your Laser. Have you sailed one of B&B’s cat ketches yet? A few moments at the helm will help you understand a lot. Where do you live? Who can you snag a ride with?

There is a world of difference in how and what you do on a Lapwing, compared to a Laser. Your Lapwing will be used for pleasure sails, perhaps with friends and family. Having access to all those wonderful floatation/storage areas will allow you to take and store PFD’s, snacks, water, sunscreen, rain gear, etc. I have a Bay River Skiff with two hatches. I wish I had installed two more. Once they’re in, they are a non-issue. You’ve done such a fine job on a time consuming build. Don’t rush to the finish line. Take the time to fit her out well.

Sail a Laser for longer than you care remember, they ain't got a lot of storage - but you make do - even with three back to back races well offshore...! But I guess one hatch under the rear to go with one up forward will be useful. Easier to do now than later too.

Sharp eyes! Yes they are a fabulous tool.