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Thank you.. Such a relief to be done.

Wow, wonderful!

OK, so it looks like this project is done. The boat floats and does not leak. Sails look very nice. Thank you all for the support. We folded the boat on Sept 2024 and finished in July of 2026.

Epoxy always needed on everything everywhere. That's the best method. The epoxy is a barrier to moisture. Moisture makes wood shrink and swell. Shrinking and swelling causes cracks. Cracks let in more moisture. Full epoxy encapsulation of all wood is the best most long lived way. Okoume plywood is not very rot resistant at all. If it's wet it will rot in a couple seasons. The Gougeon Brothers built the adagio Trimaran in 1969 and she's still going strong. All epoxy and plywood bonded and i'm sure every bit is coated in epoxy.

Forgive the possible stupidity, but can someone explain some of these areas need epoxy? I'm thinking under the gunwales, seats, even the deck. It seems to me they get wet so little that primer and paint, or varnish, would be enough. What is the deciding criteria for whether epoxy is needed or not?

Thanks Alan

I wouldn't bother if it's going to get 10oz over it later but I am a fan of putting down 4oz on something if i need to finish it quickly but you still usually need a "fill coat" on top of the glass if you want it smooth. If you put too much epoxy then the glass just floats and you still get the weave. I find the best is to do a heavy coat on the bare wood and put the 4oz glass down and let it soak up the epoxy and let that set up then a few hours later come back and coat that again as a fill coat. OR use peel ply over the 4oz then it's a 1 step and done. It is heavier than 3 coats though. If the parts are flat on the table though you can just do a heavy flood coat but it's hard to know how much there is and easy to use a LOT. Sand the ply smooth with 220 before you coat if you want to try to do a one step flood coat for best finish else you could still get some wood grain/fuzz rough texture on it.

Gotcha. Thanks

Three thin coats of epoxy might be less epoxy than what you would need to wet out the cloth. Three coats of epoxy would have a better chance of full coverage with no voids

Getting ready to start my ECO 18 build For non structural waterproofing can one epoxy coat with 4 oz cloth substitute for 3 coats of epoxy? Thinking of using it on non structural applications ( under deck, frames, under gunnels, ) for waterproofing in addition to 10 oz cloth where needed.

My two cents: A. I have a staysail for my CS 17 Mk I. I've had it up in anger twice, once on the EC and once up north. 1. We put it up in light air on the EC and it added a knot on a DDW. My buddy didn't realize I had left the halyard unfastened and pulled it down when the wind came up. We didn't end up restringing it and never had cause to use it again, so didn't restring. I have since added some stopper knots. 2. I was solo on a long downwind run in light air. I was resolved to sail it. I thought, why not. I pulled it out, rigged it (lots of fuss, and Steve noted) and, lo and behold, my speed went up. I even jibed it! But I had plenty of time and plenty of room. So, I would add it for the EC, but consider it a light air sail. B. I was expecting to do the EC again in 2027. Seeing the success of some Core Sounds with spinakers in 2026, I went ahead and got a used Javelin chute on ebay, and a pole, and pole fitting just above the mast step on the main mast, and plan to put a double block (halyard and topping) lift high on the main mast, and maybe a down haul. Two turning blocks low on the main. I got a 7-foot pole from Forespar. I figured this would definitely be a light air rig only. There is plenty of downwind power in the two standard sails for anything beyond light air. Based on some driveway sailing, it looks like the chute would set well to wind of the main mast. Well, now it looks like my crew and I won't make the EC 2027 after all, so I don't know if I'll ever fly it. But that was the plan. Maybe on a light air day this summer I'll get to try it out. The photo is when I did a trial of the chute tacked in place with duct tape. The mast seemed to show no ill effects. Again, I stress, light air.

I don't recall the starter rachet failing to let go, but I do think I've had a bit of something like backfire when the motor had what I felt later was hydrolock because of too much oil in the sump. I found that the dealer had filled the oil very high. I now make sure the oil is never higher than halfway up the visual guage when the motor is upright. The dealer had put it clear up beyond the top of the guage. I also never store it on its side that says "this side up", because that seems to trigger oil into the cylinder, i.e., hydro lock. Go figure. I always try to store it either upright on a stand or "upright" lying down, by which I mean having the front of the engine facing down such as in the back of the car while traveling. They hydro lock from too much oil getting into the cylinder can be a nasty thing. When I took it to the dealer, he put it on the stand, diagnosed the problem, took the spark plug out, pulled the starter cable, and a slug of oil jumped 8 feet across the shop. (He then overfilled it again. Geez.)

I've got a 2.5 that I've never had anything like that happen. I keep it attached to the boat while towing and on a stand when the boat comes home. I wonder if there is an issue with the motor due to oil or gas lock form storing on it's side.

I'm going to post this here before announcing to the larger group, just in case someone can join Raid Erie last minute. I have extra dock space for anyone who wants to attend last minute. If you're unaware, this marina lets multiple boats use the same slip, as long as the total is under the dockage feet. The catch is I have only 15-16 feet available. I have a CS-20 and a 36' slip. In the off chance that you want to bring a CS-15 or Lapwing 16, or any other smaller boat, let me know ASAP!

Planning to store the boat in the garage so that solves that. Big Garage = fewer problems

Those pliers are called lineman’s pliers. I have my dad’s pair. He was an electrician, not a lineman. @Ted Johanson Don’t forget the two 1/4” locator holes in the bulkhead pair. Those four holes will ensure perfect placement for your Quick Connect hardware.

If I understand your first problem correctly, then we have experienced the same thing with our Suzuki 2.5. I was teaching my wife how to use the motor, including starting it. As she pulled the starting cord, there was sudden, intense compression. This yanked the cord out of her hand so violently that it broke her wrist! (Ever so slightly, but still…) I’ve had it yank out of my hand on occasion, too. When I pull it, I pull with more authority than my bride. I also prepare for the sudden resistance by allowing it to slip out of my hand when it happens. In other words, I’m coping with the condition because this motor is otherwise awesome.

The foam decking will be very nice. Why don’t you consider the purple? It would be striking! LOL I have one question: You have the semi-elliptical openings cut into the side coamings just aft of the cabin bulkhead. How do you keep the mud daubers out?

Thanks!

I never got much out of the staysail and no longer carry it. I found it more effective to reach higher without the staysail and jibe back and forth as necessary.

I have a Mizzen staysail for Skeene, my 20.3. It has successfully been deployed twice. The problem is that it's range of use is limited, and the time and complexity it takes to deploy, and douse discourage me. But those two times were pretty great and justify it's presence. I went from a bob and bake situation to real movement, even though I wasn't going in any direction I really wanted. I would like the bowspit setup, but i haven't commited to it's complexity.

My Core Sound 17 Mark 3 does not have the bowsprit. I would like to add a light wind sail and could use some advice from the group. I am hoping to do the Everglades Challenge and a light air sail means more sailing and less rowing of my 17. Should I add A) the bowsprit, backstays, halyard, furling hardware and an asymmetric spinnaker OR the mizzen staysail halyard and the mizzen staysail? The bowsprit option is sexier, more sail area, and perhaps the better technical choice. Its also more expensive and a much bigger project. The staysail is easier to add and keeps the boat simpler without stays. Alan previously told me he did not know of a 17 Mark 3 with the staysail. What do you think I should do?

I think there will be a time you are happy with the extra push. Storm coming or strong head wind for example. Something else I highly recommend is use only nonethanol fuel. You will not burn enough fuel in a season to worry about the added cost and you will actually save money because you won't have to clean the carburetor when fuel sits in the tank for a while.

Thanks, Tim. So even though I'll seldom go past half-throttle, going briefly wide-open occasionally will take care of it?

A boating mate was over looking at progress. "It's going to be a piece of furniture" was his comment. "So important to get the shadow lines between the rich dark timber and the white gloss deck spot on...'. Or it will be gloss when the next coat goes on. So a bit of head scratching, and a couple of hours sanding I hadn't counted on, and now at least the coamings fit agreeably against the inside of the decks. It really good to get someone who has done it before and knows some of the pitfalls. Of course, when the gunwale goes on it will be the same thing again on the outside of the decks, but now there are only 8 pieces of wood to glue to the boat.... then paint. and sanding. and more paint.