All Activity

I studied forestry in a limited way at uni, and we used the terms conifer and broadleaf. So there are three different ways of splitting trees in to two groups! Poplar is a deciduous broadleaf, but not exactly a hardwood. Yew is a coniferous evergreen, but can be treated as a hardwood. And holly is a broadleafed evergreen, and again a hardwood. It's all pretty fascinating. Would make a good Venn diagram. Getting back on topic...I'll swing by my local builders' merchant and see if I can find any decent clear timber. I don't think I'll need to be too fussy about species from the sound

I agree with Dave said. It does look like our typical treated southern yellow pine which I have used many times for gunwales. What I like about it is that it will be better seasoned and is less likely to turn into a snake after it is ripped. After I rip the laminations, I look over every one and select the end with the straightest grain and mark it forward. I will select three for port and the three for starboard so that I know which way to cut the bevel on the bottom edge. The forward end has to take the most bending stress.

Aphers, since you are covering the entire gunwale with fendering I don't think hardness is an issue. The ad does not identify the wood used, but it is most likely Southern Yellow Pine. SYP, though a softwood, is harder and stronger than most. Find out for sure, but if it is SYP that looks like a nice way to assure you get good stuff. Milled products are usually made with good stuff. edit: I am not sure how many realize this, but the definition of a hardwood is decidious, and evergreen for softwood. It generally speaks to hardness, but not necessarily. Douglas Fir is hard compar

Are you doing the entire gain as one rabbit in each plank? It looks that way. I suggest half of the gain is rabbeted into each plank such that there is a rabbit on the outside top and inside bottom of all planks. edit: You can probably get away with it since you are building with epoxy. A traditional boat relies on the constant overlap for waterproof.

OK, here’s the plan, Stan. I’m gonna build a mock-up, to familiarize myself with this process, especially with using peel ply on the taped seams. Assuming success, I will commit to the process on the wherry. This boat belongs to someone else. They’re spending a lot on her, and I want it to be right. But this process offers many advantages, including a neat and clean build. It also keeps me from having to hand sand into a bunch of nooks and crannies. My ROS is wider than these panels, which forces me to sand them all by hand! Here’s Step One in my mock-up. Second coat goes on

OK shoot this idea down but it occurs to me that I have a readily available source of long thin treated softwood- the fillet strips used in decking projects to fill in the channel in the handrail. Typically sold at a finished size of about 12x45mm and lengths up to 3.6m. e.g. https://www.fourseasonsfencing.co.uk/shop/product/premier-handrail-fillet/ It is NOT a high grade of timber by any means, but it is treated for outdoor use and tends to be pretty clear. Crucially, I can walk in to my local merchant and pick some up tomorrow. My concerns would be th

Price?

One of my boat building ans story writing heroes, Rob White, built his lapstrake boats this way---pre-glassing the strakes.

Ted— I gave up downhill skiing for teo reasons. 1) Opportunities are limited in NC, and 2) The last time I went in MI, I started worrying about falling and breaking bones. When you do that, it’s time to hang them up! Chick— Yes, I’m trying to run with the big dogs. (Namely you.) Today, I worked on the gains (before to the left, and after to the right of the first photo), and started gluing up the mahogany gunwales. They’re lovely. I am deliberating over trying an alternate build process. Russell Brown of ptwatercraft.com does things differently. He pre-bonds

This is fabulous. Really looking forward to this build! Welcome aboard!!

I’m beginning to get the “winter without a project” thing in this new retirement reality. 😄 I’m glad to have Alpine skiing at Granite Peak starting up again tomorrow.

The snowy and beautiful trip home from my wife’s successful oncology appointment; they started being a regular part of our lives twenty years ago. I NEVER lose appreciation for every month and year we’ve enjoyed these past couple decades; they are like “bonuses.” The local ski hill (Granite Peak) opens for skiing tomorrow. I plan to be there. 😃

Thanks all!

OK thanks, I think that makes sense. So essentially I'm looking for a length of 2x4 as clear as I can find?

Chick is correct, the mk3 is a different boat.

That BoM is wrong for the S11n. It is correct for the non nesting version. I recall that the actual length is 11' 4" and rounded up to 12'. You need 3 lengths of 1x2. In the US a 1x2 real size is 3/4 thick and 1 1/2 wide. To keep the fair shape of the boat after it is cut in two, we need to laminate the gunwales around the boat in three layers. Allowing for the saw kerf after ripping 3/4" stock you will end up with about 5/16" laminations and will give you close to 1" thick gunwales, this is close to perfect for that boat. We typically use 2 x 4's, real size 1 1/2 x 3

The hulls are different enough that kit parts won't fit, but you certainly could do your own conversion to add a cabin. I did something like that to build Old Codger from a Jessy Skiff. It's not a sail boat, but the same ideas apply as for as the cabin goes. Maybe you can get some ideas from my build on the cabin. You could also get a set of plans for the Mk-3 to guide you, too.

Are a trying to keep up with me, Big Don?

Good Old 12' Generation III Porta-Bote with plywood seats. Handy utility boat/explorer. Had small crack in one upper transom fold so sealed all transom folds with flex tape in and out. Foam flotation on interior sides and seat tops, includes original aluminum factory oars, kayak-style dolly, & home-built floor panels. Folds flat to about 7" with seats removed. Easy to assemble. Hull weighs about 75# with seats removed. Well traveled, then In storage many years. No telling how many folds/unfolds she has left. Google Porta-Bote for more details. Now assembled. Sold as package only. Locat

A friend of mine wanted an Annapolis Wherry, and I was looking at another winter without a boatbuilding project. I offered to build it for her for an attractive price. She jumped at it. Long story short, I’ve received the kit from CLC Boats, and have just started the build.

Those are some mighty old plans you’re working with, Ted.

I began transferring the full sized drawings to poster board using carbon paper and a stylus, then cutting them out with a scissors. I used a straight edge when I could, but with curves, I found that my hand made wobbly lines. Things straightened nicely when using the scissors on the wobbly lines... kind of splitting the difference as I cut. I think that the templates being made will produce a good clear line on the wood for bandsaw cutting and drum sanding, better than if I hand-traced the curved lines directly from the plans to the wood.

Hello! that sounds like a question for Alan Stewart or graham, and welcome to the community mark

There are a couple of CS17s mark 1s out there for sale. Would it be possible to buy one and later upgrade it to a mark 3? I'd be willing to pay extra for the kit adjustment. Is this a terrible idea that's not going to save much time?

This CS-17 was completed in 2016 and rigged by the team at B&B Yacht Designs. The boat has always been on a covered lift or garage kept. Trailer included. Tom Yorkrown Va 757 869.4824