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  1. Yesterday
  2. If you want to learn all about it, see "USDA, Forest Service Handbook No. 125, Bending Solid Wood to Form, 1957." See link below: https://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/usda/ah125.pdf
  3. Bad idea. Some woods bend well and some don't and cedar is one that doesn't. White oak is the best. Maple worked well for me too as you know. There are a few others that will work but these are what I have used. As a side note spraying water on it does nothing. It is the heat that makes in bendy, not water. You don't want extremely dry wood but again the heat is the reason it bends. We use steam because it will not get hot enough to burn the wood, not because of the water.
  4. Last week
  5. Thanks Riggs. Today another test run !. Think we matched the perfect prop for this boat . 3 x 16 x 21.5" Cruising speed of 23Kn (26miles) at 3650 rpm and burns 17 liters of fuel per hour Top speed (WOT) 45Kn (51.8 miles) at 6150 rpm A total trip of 36Kn (41miles) in 2 hours burned 28 liters of fuel . Think that these motors and this boat are super efficient ! Now the boat rides very stable at all speeds. Very happy and satisfied with all the results and thanks again to Graham !
  6. You will find it way too brittle to bend around such a small radius. You would also need to make it much thicker to achieve the needed strength even if you could bend it. Hardwoods both bend easier and achieve needed strength with much less thickness. Oaks, of all woods bend the easiest, especially if green. But many hardwoods will do the job.
  7. Wow Lotus. She looks wonderful. Congrats on an outstanding build
  8. Is it possible to use my leftover western red cedar to build a laminated coaming? I have the first round of cedar on the template and it made a lot of noise as I heated, sprayed with water, and bent the cedar around the form. Not sure if I can find maple to make one like Jeff recommended in the video on Youtube.
  9. There was some questions about electrical systems. I'm not sure mine is totally complete. I may add a pump for the ballast, and that would indeed add to the needed capacity, but so far so good. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRdDjnZ5T8c
  10. Thanks, Tobias. Just a simple little boat, but maybe it will meet the need for a boat to take camping.
  11. Hi Chick, I'm so glad, that youre posting again some build. Really looking forward for the next steps and the finished boat. I missed your reports lately..... Go ahead! Tobias
  12. Core Sound 20 for sale. Includes trailer, full mooring cover, two sets of sales - second set personally designed by Grahm Byrnes to increase sail area by 25% - used only four times. Construction personally supervised by Grahm Byrnes. Stay sail included. Kit would cost approximately $6,750 plus freight and you would have to build. Boat, trailer, sails, cover - all excellent condition - also includes four cycle four HP Tuhatsu outboard motor (essentially brand new - only one tank of gas run through this motor), delivery can be arranged. Boat located in Buffalo, NY area. $10,000.
  13. For a different purpose, I use "Squiding line", which is the same or similar to braided fishing line. Available in Dacron or nylon in a range of strengths and very strong.
  14. Tango Skiff 12 Build log notes. #6 The first picture is foam poured all the way up front. This, along with the wooden construction will keep the bow afloat. Next is the stern seat top set in place. It will be removed to pour foam in the cavities in the after plane. Finally, the bow deck is glassed in.
  15. I have a large spool of some sort of braided line that I have used for all my client boats. I like it best because it is strong enough I don't have to double it up to pull the skin really tight. I have looked for a supplier for something similar for a long time and have given up. Just can't find anything in small spools I can sell. But, the line I sell doubled up works. Sinew will work. Braided fishing line works. Nothing magic there, I just don't use nylon based because of the stretch.
  16. I used braided Spectra fishing line. Extremely strong and still a fine thread like material.
  17. I used this for all of mine: http://www.kudzucraft.net/Rope-and-Thread/Stitching-Twine.html ...but it's out of stock... I can't think of any good reason braided line wouldn't work for sewing, but I would want to make sure it's something that will melt with heat after you tie off and snip the tag ends to discourage the knots from slipping loose over time.
  18. I am nearing the point where I will start sew in on the polyester covering on my longshot. I was wondering what the opinions were on the choice of thread. I have a large supply of artificial sinew, and thank you to whomever recommended purchasing two rolls for us rookies. I also read that braided fishing line is good to use. I was wondering the thoughts of the group. Thanks
  19. Build of #24 spent a couple of hours going over all the information out there on the internet and your recommendations and came up with a 50 watt semi-flexible solar.panel, 30amp charge controller, and a 35 amp-hour agm battery to start off my power supply if I need more storage the batteries are small enough I can add an additional one quite easily. The next thing will be the switch distribution panel, more time on the internet
  20. Mike, Thanks for the heads up. I'll be correcting this soon. Some of the images slipped through the cracks.
  21. Earlier
  22. Thanks one and all. I think I’ll go ahead with thickened epoxy sans fasteners.
  23. On the CS 20 page there is descriptive text but the pictures being referred to don't show up.
  24. Hi Scott, I’m interested in taking on your project. Can you give me more info about the overall design concept you had for this boat: rigging, etc. thanks, Errick Michigan
  25. Time to catch up with y'all. Tango Skiff 12 Build log notes. #5 The center take apart bulkhead has been installed. The after planes are finished, ready for glassing. I’ll finish most of the glass taping at one time. Framing has been added around the aft seat/stowage boxes to attach the seat top to. I still have to glass tape the boxes in place. There is another little bulkhead forward that will have pour foam ahead of it. The bow platform is cut and set in place temporarily. We’re getting close to flipping the boat over to glass the bottom.
  26. Graham will probably chime in here but go ahead and beat him to it since I know what he will say. He prefers to simply sands the back of the flange and glue it to the bulkhead with thickened epoxy. I haven't seen this method fail yet and it makes a perfect seal. You could add bolts after the fact if you wanted but why bother. Probably just as good would be to just glue it on with 5200 and no fasteners. I can speak with experience that with this method the plywood will rip out before the hatch does so screws or bolts seem pointless in that case also. If you DO want to be able to remove the hatch then bed it with butyl rubber caulk and then use bolts or srews. DONT use butyl rubber tape, it is far too thick and you'll never get it to squeeze down.
  27. There are 2 issues to be aware of that I have encountered with these inspection ports. 1. Do not use a polysulfide bedding compound. It will release. 3M 101 and BoatLife LifeCaulk are polysulfides. They do not work with most plastics. 2. When you fasten the rim over bedding it will likely not seat flush. The fasteners will pull the rim tight and spaces in between may bow out. I suggest adding clamps between fasteners until the bedding cures. Try not to over tighten as you may squeeze out too much of the bedding and lose the water tight seal. I try to stay away from strong adhesives like 3M 4200 and 5200 because removal later can be damaging. But in this application it really is a better than most option. Get it right the first time and clean up well afterwards. Masking or cleaning before cure both work.
  28. Building bunk tops and storage lids
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