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For one thing, it has a brushless motor, which runs smoother. The new blades have fancier teeth, too. No screwdriver to install them! And the baseplate is super flat and smooth.

A round hole in the side shouldn't need any extra reinforcement. Where does it say to put it in the top in the plans? Must be a typo. Defenitely put them in the sides.

Will post some updates soon. But right now I have a question about the aft seats and inspection hatches. I'm going with 6" inspection ports because we will probably use these areas to store small things on occasion since this will be our primary means of transportation. The plans call for these to be added to the seat tops, but I've also seen people add them to the sides, and this is my preference as well. Should I reinforce these areas with an extra layer of plywood, or some laminated stripes of wood, or am I over thinking this?

So, what makes the DeWalt make a smoother, better cut…. (since I use a similar Craftsman that I got for $5 from a church rummage sale.)

Im thinking about buying Torqeedo motor and maybe two batteries. I also looking at the Ecoflow power system with solar panels to charge all my equipment while out exploring the islands on west coast of Florida. Im trying to decide what size of Ecoflow power system I need to charge the Torqeedo batteries and other things like lights and phone and maybe a mini drone etc. Ive looked at the Ecoflow Delta 2 but it might be more then I need with its 4 solar panels. The River 2 Pro might be large enough with panels to do what I want and take up less space and weight is less. EF ECOFLOW Solar Generator RIVER 2 Pro 768Wh LiFePO4 Battery with 220W Solar Panel,

As many of you may know, I’ve been aching to build another boat. But the War Department wanted to know which boat I was going to eliminate, to make room for the new one. THE NERVE!!! Then, there was a person who wanted a trimaran, but was not in a position to build it. “Could anyone build it for me?” Long story short, I will satisfy my boatbuilding addiction by building a Seaclipper 16, and this fellow will get a boat that meets his needs. It’s a win-win! I’ll pick up the plywood and epoxy at the B&B Messabout, and get cranking. Fortunately, my bride realizes that I’m happiest when I’m building a boat. I already have the plans. This is gonna be “fun”! Here are some photos of the boat. The photo above shows how the amas can be retracted. (The starboard one is shown retracted.) This is one of the owner’s requirements. She takes a Hobie 14 sloop rig.

I tried out the saw today. It was incredible! So much smoother and cleaner that the old way. New: Old:

Congrats on a great choice of boat! I was thinking back to my build and 2 things I will always remember. 1. get help with the unfolding when going from 2D to 3D. It happens REAL FAST! 2. Check that the transom is tied in tight. If not, a hump will be seen in the last few feet of the bottom panels. Constantly check that all panels are fair prior to glass and epoxy. When time allows, I am going to do my next build. This fall, I am modifying my forward mast to accommodate a tabernacle as the bridge between me and the Atlantic has 10' clearance. photos will be posted of the conversion.

That’s fantastic! Keep us in the loop!

Update: I am going to the MASCF next week and staying until Monday the 9th. There are Lots of options for the rest of the week, but at some point, Amos are going to leave from his location near the north end of the Dismal swamp canal and sail our CS20.3's to the Messabout. We both looked at Graham's Delmarva trip for time and we think 4-5 day should do it. I'm praying for the weather to cooperate. I'm giddy.

Got it Tom thanks. I add a zero option on the sign up form. Good catch.

I used a Grizzly corded Jigsaw when I built the Suzy J. IT worked great, but the cordless revolution really was pushed forward by lithium-ion batteries. That DeWalt looks pretty nice.

Well, that was fun— NOT! It was worth a try, but it was not ideal. I guess I’m going to bite the. Bullet and get one of these. I already have enough batteries, so I can save a buck or two there. The Bosch, Rigid, and Milwaukee all looked good, too, but it would mean buying the battery, and having another battery charger laying around. Now, I just need to get some of those new blades…

We are planning on coming in on Saturday, so will not be attending Little Italy Dinner on Friday. Question on Dinner attendance does not have a 0 for persons attending, but since I couldn't bypass the question, I checked the (1) box. Just wanted to let you know. See you on the 21st!

Thank you both, again, for getting young kids out sailing. Way too many sailing blogs are basically "old man sails alone" stories. Nothing wrong with that, but even better if you can grab a local kid to join you. B&B boats are great for this--roomy, stable, and fast, plus easy to swim from. Keep up the good work!

Rather than starting a new thread called “Sailing Local Honey”, I thought I’d just drop this in here. Last Saturday, I took the next door neighbor kid for a sail. It was his second time sailing. This time, we had more wind, and it was delightful!

In the past, I have used my crappy Craftsman jig saw, cut shy of the line, and used a block plane to get to the line. I also do port and starboard sides simultaneously. I’ve built nine boats, and counting. Occasionally, though, I like to stand back, and think outside the box. “Might there be a better way?” Something caught my eye at Lowes yesterday, which turned on a light bulb in my pea-brain. So, I drove over to Harbor Freight, and bought this. This is what I mean about thinking outside the box. It might really suck at cutting curves. It might really suck in general. But the multitool worked like a champ, when relocating Avocet’s centerboard 10” forward. The experiment is going to cost me only $7.50. If it fails, I’ll probably suck it up and buy a cordless jigsaw. That’ll set me back about $200, but at least I won’t have to use that old saw anymore.

Hi Toni, are you still here in the forum? Did you build the boat? Dini here from Germany, thinking about building one myself. Liebe Grüße

G’day I use a jig saw with a laminate blade. It cuts Okoume really cleanly so I cut to the line, no finishing required. Also most panels are duplicated port & starboard so stack the plywood sheets & cut two panels at once. I marked out & cut all the hull panels & bulkheads for my CS17 in one day. cheers John

I used a worm drive Skill saw and left the lines. Then cleaned up the cuts with 6" disk and 36 grit paper. I made the two sides together and the bottoms together as mirror pieces. I have the plans with full size pattens. I'm painting and have no bright wood so it worked well for me.

But the chainsaw would be faster…. LOL

Bosch cordless jigsaw then a block plane.

Looking good and bringing back memories. I did my tape like yours. I did slide my tape just a bit to reinforce the bolt holes, FWIW. I think that first pic is at the stern. I knife can clean that joint up quickly. You aren't getting any strength out of that gap. After you add your fill coats you can fair it if you are going to paint it. "Don't let perfection be the enemy of good". In the end, after you've used her, none of this will matter as long as she's solid. Take Care, Steve

I’m leaning to using the jig saw. As I recall, the mini-circular saw was nice to use, though. I block plane all my lines, as I don’t trust my jig saw technique. Maybe one of these nice, new ones will perform better.

So I got the gunwales planed and sanded down fair. I then moved onto tack welding the fwd bulkhead in place and adding my first glassed fillet to one of the nesting bulkheads. I used peel ply on the tape to make my life easier for the next layer. After peel ply was removed, looks ok from a distance. A couple small air pockets up close though that I'll need to come back and fix. I drilled my holes through the nesting bulkheads prior to this step (and prior to installing the bulkheads into the boat) because I didn't see the note in the instructions about doing it after the bulkheads were glassed in. One question I have, is should the tape be fully covering the places where the bulkheads will be bolted through? If so, I'll need to adjust where I place the other layers of tape. The other question I had is: presumably the sides and bottoms should be taped separately, as it's impossible to make a piece of fiberglass tape round that 3D corner (without cuts). I did mine in separate pieces, with about a 2" overlap. Is that acceptable?