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  2. Buddy of mine wrapped my dads fiberglass canoe around a rock on the one class 2 rapid on a creek we paddled. Fortunately they were swimming and not in the canoe or it could have turned out much worse. But the skin on the SOF will rub through very quickly. I have tried it and if you are bumping bottom in current, you are going to have to reskin VERY quickly. Sliding over a down trees is much different that being pushed by a current over rocks.
  3. Yesterday
  4. I have a BRS 15, and also wonder about this. I rarely run with the c/b all the way down. My mizzen is “just filled” most of the time. Wouldn’t it be easier to modify the hole in the seat, rather than the step?
  5. This is the point in the build where it is easy to rush, and go sailing. Three extra coats of varnish are hard to do when you know you could be sailing. Resist temptation, and do a fine job (as you have been). Hope we get to meet this fall at the messabout.
  6. Thanks! This has always been the mysterious part of the build. My Rustoleum is doing OK, but I have noticed some chipping here and there. It is very bad where the mast bears down on the seat or deck. I thought there had to be another way.
  7. Congrats on the new crew-member! I'm in the same boat, literally (well, almost) and figuratively, as of seven weeks ago. His arms are still too short to reach the oars, but I'm sure he'll be shuttling me around before too long.
  8. Holy smokes! It’s been more than 2 months since last post and want to provide some pictorial update. Truth be told progress has been steady albeit slow which I attribute to the social isolation protocols and unexpected lack motivation. Although for me boat building seems to have been a sound constructive activity to remain semi-isolated, I’ve often felt guilty as friends, neighbors and acquaintances undergo job losses, financial struggles and other effects of COVID-19. The impact has been difficult on all of us, some more than others and my heart saddens for those who have experienced loss and continue to struggle. I have faith we, as a nation will overcome these crises.
  9. For a while now, I've noticed that my CS 20 doesn't point very well compared to other boats (including other Core Sound boats). It could be they way I sail her, but I suspect it has a lot to do with excessive weather helm. To get a balanced helm, I often raise the centerboard a bit and luff the mizzen. On a hunch, I took a level to the main and mizzen while the boat was moored in a quiet marina to see whether the mizzen is raked too far back. I discovered that the rake of the mizzen is considerably more than the main. I calculate that a three to five degree difference would move the center of effort back 6" to 10", but I'm uncertain how much of a difference that would make in weather helm. I'm not looking forward to rebuilding the mizzen mast step, but if I decide to do it, I'd like to feel optimistic that it will make a difference. Has anyone observed this in their Core Sound boats? Thanks, Frank San Miguel San Jose, CA CS 20 Mk 2 Wren Mainmast rake: Mizzen rake: Calculations:
  10. Yes, Completely agree, I have dedicated rodeo boat for class 2 and above, mainly have to deal with 30 cm and below that come up unexpectedly. Just wondering what your lengths were on the stingers?
  11. While fiddling with some hardware I discovered that a Harken 073 eyestrap fits and slides surprisingly well in our sail track. I always have a couple of them in my handy repair kit and with a bit of lashing cord I can quickly make a repair and be back on my way if I should ever have a slide or two fail.
  12. I'm not sure how it will work on your rig with the tabernacle, but since my main mast steps thru the deck, I'm able to leave the two reefing downhauls lying with extra slack on the deck (with the hooks in place). Then when I hoist the main, there's no extra tension. I pull the slack out of downhauls once the sail is up. You're right that it all adds some minutes to setup and requires some care, but for me the peace of mind is worth it. So is the knowledge that my little ship is properly rigged.
  13. Thanks, I was hoping to hear that! The addition of a tiller clutch has really made a difference in self steering at different points of sail. Depending on the intensity of the wind, I can even self steer close hauled.
  14. Sorry about not wrapping this up sooner. My shop built slides tested worst of all even though I had a larger cross section. After I looked up the mechanical properties it was obvious why as it was nowhere near as strong. I was surprised that the slides that come on our sails tested better than the ones that we buy domestically. Who knows where any of this stuff originates from anymore? We then searched the web and found the perfect slide right under our noses. It is a slide made out of stainless steel and coated with teflon for low friction. It looks exactly like our regular slides but black. It is a bit pricey at around $12. I am not going to rush out and change Carlita's slides, as I have said bfore that I have never broken one. On bigger boats like Jays MF246 with larger sails and forces I will use them at the head and tack and at the reef points.
  15. No update on the color scheme, sorry (the interior is still Pre-Kote white) but I've put Mo Bear to use a few times now and I'm very pleased with her performance. She looks good and rows even better!
  16. The mainsail reefs are mostly complete. Getting the four new lines set up properly will increase the time to launch, but hopefully I’ll improve. First few times I kept getting lines tangled. I used bungee to collect the coils of extra line but I think Velcro will be even faster. Those two extra downhauls make it harder to raise the sail. It already take a lot of force because of the stainless steel tracks so the extra effort need is noticeable. I really have to pull to get that sail up. (Sail track lube helps a little). Has anyone here upgraded their old SS tracks to the new aluminum extrusions?
  17. Most don't even use fiberglass for white water. When I was 18 I wrapped an aluminum canoe around a rock on the Saco River in Maine. Serious canoeists mostly use Kevlar composites for white water.
  18. Hey Alan- Did you guys ever do this testing, reach any conclusions, release new sail slides, etc? If newer, beefier sail slides are recommended, would be happy to buy some of them
  19. Then you looking at a the wrong style of boat. SOF are not suitable for white water. You need to be looking at something else. I NEVER recommend SOF boats for white water. That is a recipe for disaster.
  20. I think im going to try treating my mast tubes with an alodine cromate conversion coating. They make a "clear" alodine coating. This is a chem process like used on unpainted small aircraft. Or as a treatment before painting. The chemicals are a bit icky but its just brushed on or dipped and then rinsed off. The regular alodine leaves the aluminum a golden color which i dont think i want. If it works then i wont paint them just leave metallic. I spoke to a guy recently who was in the mast and later aircraft business and this is what they do. There are lots of youtube vids on it mostly for prepping homemade aircraft for painting.
  21. Noted that the weight increase will be a factor, using the wood I have on hand as it is free and readily available. The other consideration is that the rivers here in southern Alberta tend to have a good deal of white water. As I plan to do extended tripping, I think the safety factor outweighs the weight consideration. Goon note on the skin, thank you, I will be ordering it soon from KUDZU. Recommendations on what weight would work best?
  22. Last week
  23. @Alan Stewart— what do you plan to useon your CS20? Devoe 2-part poly? What about primer?
  24. A lot of people use a Bowline. I don’t lole it, because it is large, and the bitter end comes off at right angles. I prefer the Poacher’s knot. It is strong and compact. https://www.animatedknots.com/poachers-knot That’s what I use on double braid. More often than not, these days, I’m making a Brummel splice in Amsteel. That’s the slick way to go. https://www.animatedknots.com/brummel-eye-splice-knot NOTE: the top two photos belong at the bottom. I can never seem to manage my photos in this forum! The first photo is a Poacher’s knot. The second photo is a plain Buried Brummell. The third photo is also a Buried Brummell. Sorry, but besides having a snap hook in the loop, I also have a Ronstan Shock Block. (These are awesome, by the way.). This was one of my snotter experiments. The line is 5mm (I think) Amsteel. The fourth photo are my lashing blocks. When you said “lashing”, this is what my mind jumped to. I use lashing blocks or Shock Blocks on my boats, except for the centerboard system. The final photo is a Double Poacher’s knot. I’ll stop now. I hope that there’s something in here that you might find of value.
  25. Week 10 — Days 44 & 45 The finishing stuff is taking a long time... (and I’m wearying of all the various forms of messy and sticky. 😄) In the past couple days the decks were trimmed and sanded. Two coats of epoxy were applied to them. They are sanded again and awaiting planned coats of varnish. The two thwarts were installed. I added the gunwales and stainless hollowback rub rails. And, I did some other miscellaneous things. Completion of the hull is just around the corner after the varnishing process. (I will then need to complete the actual sailboat stuff: centerboard installation, rudder assembly, and mast steps.)
  26. I have raised an lowered my masts on the boat. I had the entire rig off the masts, which made it easy. I would only want to do it on lfat water, but that was a desirable feature as there is a place I launch with a bridge. The tabernacles are pretty handy.
  27. I have always done such lashings with waxed twine aka seizing twine. My sails have loops at the clew, why snap hooks, what ever they are?
  28. Is there a suggested "proper" way to lash the snap hooks to the sail clew. Every-time I look at mine I think of the old Boy Scout knot rule.........if you can;t tie a good one, tie a lot of them. I have also had my square knots loosen that I tied in the chord supplied by B & B. Surely there's a trick to be learned.
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