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PAR last won the day on March 14

PAR had the most liked content!

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About PAR

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    Yacht Designer & Builder
  • Birthday March 20

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    Eustis, Florida

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  1. Is DuckWorks dead?

    It looks like DuckWorks Magazine has had some issues. Has anyone any information on this site? http://www.duckworksmagazine.com/
  2. Title and registration efforts in Florida are pretty easy for a home built. Contact the "Fish and Wildlife" department and arrange for them to come out for an inspection. They'll send an officer, who'll look her over and go over the paper work that'll need to be sent to Tallahassee. With the paperwork filled, you'll eventually receive a registration and title. USCG flotation testing has nothing to do with home built units, unless attempting to meet class and/or commercial certification requirements - read lots more paper work and yes, some testing, though usually a (NA supplied) stability booklet will do instead of incline testing. Where (part of FL) are you receiving this information?
  3. Chick's Micro Power Cruiser Project.

    There are some materials that just shouldn't be used on a boat and particle board is one of them, as is Masonite. Even encapsulated, they'll just piss you off in the end.
  4. About LWL line on plan

    The Vacationer is a design I know well. Being a flat bottom boat, you only need to level her side to side, then jack up one end, until the transom edge and the stem/bottom planking joint are about as described above. A cheap single line laser will cost less than $10 bucks, though a self leveling one, that produces both vertical and horizontal lines can be had for about $30 bucks.
  5. About LWL line on plan

    I've found the Vacationer will trim with the transom just free of the water, though this is highly dependent on crew location and how over built the boat tends to end up. With the skipper married to a wheel, she'll trim down aft a bit, maybe enough to have the transom just kissing the water. If looking for a good starting point for the boot stripe, level the boat side to side and jack her up at the bow until a laser level will touch the bottom plank/stem joint and the corner of the transom, at the same time. This is roughly level, but a bit heavy. Measure up on the transom an 1 1/2" and make a mark. Measure up on the stem/bottom plank joint about 1" and connect these two points with your laser level. This will be the bottom of the boot stripe. It's a real good idea to "sweep" this line with about an additional 1" forward and about a 1/2" aft. This simply means when you pull your tape to mark the bottom of the boot, about 48" - 60" aft of the stem you'll gradually raise the line in a nice sweeping curve up to the new slightly raised mark. The same is done at the stern, though start about 36" - 48" forward of the transom for this slight curve. This creates an optical illusion on the bottom of the boot stripe line, so she'll look like she's in good trim, when in fact she'll rarely be so. The top of the boot stripe line is treated the same way, but with a little more sweep in the ends, maybe as much as 3/4" forward and 3/8" aft. The reality in these builds, is the actual LWL may very well be all over the place from one project to the next. Unless you've had a real LWL, likely employed as a base line in the lines and construction drawings, it's just a guess, which isn't a problem. Build her well enough to get her in the water and mark, where it eventually turns out to be. Again, not that uncommon a thing and a "build to the work" not to the plans thing. You have two choices, build to the plans or build to what you have (the work). Building to the work always looks better, though will probably add (or subtract) from your bald spot a touch.
  6. Interesting solution Graham. I played with making something similar a few years ago, but went with a split ring (instead of captive ball) arrangement. It's funny how we approuch things. I was working through this on my old 35' CCA Lion Class, converted to yawl. I need a better way to hoist, douse and furl the mizzen mule, which was a sail I liked to use fairly frequently. I had a couple of different staysails and wanted a relatively cheap way to have everything attached, so I could hoist from a cockpit locker, dog down and runout pretty quickly. The drums I found commercially were either too big, quite costly or had too much diameter to be effective on the smaller sails I was using. Initially, I tried what I saw in a Karver bottoms up setup, but didn't like the lack of furling line exit adjustment. Eventually I made a drum that worked pretty well, once I got the friction thing worked out and a Ronstan 60 series swivel, for their code zero/drifter setup.
  7. Chick's Micro Power Cruiser Project.

    They are likely looking for some turtle soup . . .
  8. Chick's Micro Power Cruiser Project.

    . . . a distant memory? . . .
  9. Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    Don't mix in little cups, which just "masses" the goo and accelerates the cure process. Mix in a flat bottom, wide tray and spread it out as soon as it's completely mixed, into a uniformly thin sheet of goo.
  10. Action Tiger builds sailboat. With epoxy!

    You must remember some of the information in the MSDS is lawyer driven and also on legislation. For example a test conducted in California lab rats (for example), which were force fed epoxy molecule elements daily for a month, might show a proclivity toward a certain reaction, cancer or illness potential. This doesn't mean it's the case with the casual user or even the professional that also swims in the stuff, but if you start eating goo on toasted rye bread every day, you might have some issues. In other words, some of the information is published, "just in case" (read law suits) and possibly for reasons not as simple to understand.
  11. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Nice looking stuff there. 50 - 70 MPH winds, that's just a summer thunderstorm around here, without the 20,000 lightening hits per hour, to add to the enjoyment.
  12. 1962 Sea Skiff restoration

    Yeah, Thiokol was the first generation of polysulfide and worked pretty good, especially in continuous immersion applications on raw wood. 3M-5200 is a polyurethane and though used by many, I don't recommend it in this application (long term immersion), unless the seam can be continuously compressed during the full cure process (a few weeks). I've seen the polyurethanes peel or easily pulled from a seam that had a bead applied by a caulk gun (no pressure). You should have mentioned it. I have a good way to open up the seams and cut the rivets or clenches at the same time. A fine tooth hacksaw blade, maybe with some tape around one end to make it more comfortable is the ticket. You wedge open a seam just enough to slide the blade it, then, using the lap as a guide, slowly cut through the goo, until you find a fastener, which of course you quickly hack though, just to continue on to the next. Some of these used screws into the frames, so you'd switch to digging out the putty and backing it out. The nice thing is the lap is also cleaned up in the process and it helps to use a slightly dull blade (interestingly enough), as it's easy to get too aggressive with a sharp one and dig into the laps. With just a portion of one seam missing the goo, you still have lots of friction and moisture gain to keep things fairly tight, from surrounding goo and fasteners, so not as much of a surprise to me. Repairs on these old laps is where I cut my teeth, as no one in this area wanted to touch them, because they didn't know or understand how and why things were done the way there were, along with the perception they were tough to redo. The goo wasn't a glue so much as a sealant, to absorb plank movement with moisture gain/lose cycling. It's still a traditional lap method, with the fasteners and lap friction making it tight. The goo just helped longevity and the perception they leaked more than other methods. Plank end landings on the stem are a common area of trouble with these puppies as are the garboards, which get worked more than all the rest of the planking, plus get oil soaked under the engine(s). The broad strakes (next out from the garboards) also work loose, though not at the rate of the garboard. Lastly is the sheer strake, which gets moisture trapped behind it from the clamp and side deck, causing rot. It took me years to figure out all the nuances of these old lap strakes, but once you understand the why and how, repairs become much easier. If doing a more extensive repair (the whole bottom for example), I'd epoxy the seams, but for repairs it's better to just do it the way it was originally. Lastly, you should find a thin string of cotton, buried in the bottom of the rabbet on the stem and keel. It's pretty important it goes back in.
  13. CPR Training !

    Cadence is one of the things that's changed over the years, but anything uniform at 110 to 130 per minute will do. Any good dance song will do, as will marching music if this come more easily, both at typically 120 beats per, which is fine. Most go too fast, with the excitement of the events around them (people yelling "help them", ambient noises, distractions, nervousness, Adrenalin surge, etc.). The important thing is to remain as calm as practical and focus on the task. If you do it right, you should break into a sweat pretty quickly.
  14. 1962 Sea Skiff restoration

    What did you use in the laps? Given the age of your skiff, Chris Craft used polysulfide (3M-101), which is ideal for underwater seams on non-encapsulated timber or plywood. If you did encapsulate the replacement planking, polyurethane will do (3M-5200) if the boat will be trailer borne and not spend extended time in the water (a week or more). If it's to be berthed for extended periods, polysulfide is the choice.
  15. Action Tiger builds sailboat. With epoxy!

    You don't need to acknowledge compliments, your work does fine all by itself. Once epoxy is hard, though still chemically reactive, sanding it is much more an airborne particulate issue than an absorption through the skin concern. This said, certain areas can be overly sensitive to cured dust, like armpits, the groin and other typically sensitive to the touch, thin epidural locations. Hair spray in these areas can seal the pores temporary and make you smell like a French hooker for a few hours. Baby powder (talc) is nearly as effective, but sweat washes it off quickly. Retail products like "Liquid Glove" and similar also can seal the skin, so these areas don't get dried dust impacted into the pores. Of course, a Tyvek suit is handy, but tape the sleeves closed under the gloves and maybe the neck too, just to be sure, if you've found yourself to be sensitive to certain brands. In the end, once you've become sensitive to a brand or epoxy as a whole, stop and give yourself 2 or 3 months off and switch brands. Most will recover and can move on again, with renewed adherence to procedures with a new brand. I've only met a handful of folks that haven't had success with this recovery approuch, but they also admit to swimming in it for many years on the job. I personally believe that if you have enough exposure, with less than admirable procedures, eventually it does enough damage that you just can't go back without a full EV suit and respirator system. In most cases, it's the additives in the hardener that cause folks the sensitivity. In some, it's the base resin type used by the formulator, but 90% of the time it's the hardener. FWIW, West System 205 hardener is one of the most common ones that comes up in conversation, with folks that have become sensitized, which may just be a statistical thing, as they are the industry leader, selling the most goo. The other one that comes up a frequently is Fiber Glass Coatings Inc. goo. I know they've come up with newer formulations in recent years, so this may have changed, but I haven't compaired their MSDS sheets in a few years.

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