Don Silsbe

I’m having some boatbuilding fun today! I’m reinforcing the motor mount, inside and out. Somehow, I thought the inside work would be easier to do while she was inverted. Not so sure now! LOL

She’s flipped!

A table saw top also works, but it is too small.

Today, she is together enough that I got to climb aboard for the first time. Still lots to do, but she’s coming together.

Here is a photo of the bungee retainer loop. My friend uses the tail of the bungee as a handle. Eye straps are nice, but they require more hardware. They also require the sprit to be longer. Depending on how much extra length you have, your sprits might not be up to the job. Plus, if the end of the sprit extends too far aft of the mainsail, the tip of the sprit may strike the mizzen while tacking. This can happen on my Bay River Skiff. Not sure about the Core Sounds. Here is an eyestrap on the end of a sprit. There is one on either side of the sprit. The sheet clips to the bottom one (shown), and the clew of the sail clips to one on the other side (not shown). Please send your email address to donsilsbe@gmail.com. I have something to send you.

The subject mentions keeping rain out. You will not keep rain out of the boat with the masts so low to the boat. Been there, done that. You need to devise a way to prop those masts up high enough to keep the water from puddling. For me, that means at least 12”, and more like 18”. Everybody has their own special way of doing this.

Richard— When you assemble the c/b trunk, we all know that it is “inadvisable” for it to contain any twist. The best surface for doing this is a granite countertop. They are super flat. You’ll need to clear that with the War Department, but I’m telling you that it works like a champ.

This is what I do.

If you’re just looking for a little protection underneath that carport, all you need is a poly tarp and some parachute cord to tie it off to the trailer.

A friend of mine uses a hole like that for a small loop of shock cord. This gets stretched around the clew of the sail, once it is threaded onto the point of the sprit. The loop of bungee cord ensures that the clew remains attached to the sprit. The points on my sprits are a little longer than this, and I’ve never needed the bungee retainer loop.

I doubt it. I suspect that the block attached there originally, but they moved it forward a foot or so. The mizzen sheet starts by being tied off to the becket on the end of this block, which I circled in green. From there, it goes through the block that is attached to the transom. After that, it goes through the main portion of the block with the becket in it (in this photo), and forward to the block at the forward end of the sprit. From there, it goes down to the center jam cleat.

The decks and akas have been glued up now. Dry fit: Glue-up:

What I love about these boats, and wooden ones in general, is that you can try stuff. If you don’t like it, change it. Just fill the screw holes, sand it, and give it a swipe of paint.

If you look at the second video I sent you, at the 38 minute mark, you will see how this all connects. The difference being that your hook remains on the sprit instead of the mast. I prefer to keep my snotters attached to the masts, instead of on the sprits. It really is a matter of personal preference. With the way it is on your boat, the only drawback is that you must reeve the snotter through the blocks every time you rig for sailing. When they are on the mast, you simply clip the snotter to the sprit. I suggest going with what you have for now, and consider changing it after you’ve sailed her for a while. Both work perfectly fine. It’s simply a matter of convenience.

I use 16 mil poly tarps to cover my boats. I weigh them down with gallon water jugs filled with water, and attached with S-hooks. The 16 mil tarps are heavy, but last longer than the thinner models. Even these are only good for about three years, before they start leaking. This is why I recommended Top Notch.