Don Silsbe

Those pliers are called lineman’s pliers. I have my dad’s pair. He was an electrician, not a lineman. @Ted Johanson Don’t forget the two 1/4” locator holes in the bulkhead pair. Those four holes will ensure perfect placement for your Quick Connect hardware.

If I understand your first problem correctly, then we have experienced the same thing with our Suzuki 2.5. I was teaching my wife how to use the motor, including starting it. As she pulled the starting cord, there was sudden, intense compression. This yanked the cord out of her hand so violently that it broke her wrist! (Ever so slightly, but still…) I’ve had it yank out of my hand on occasion, too. When I pull it, I pull with more authority than my bride. I also prepare for the sudden resistance by allowing it to slip out of my hand when it happens. In other words, I’m coping with the condition because this motor is otherwise awesome.

The foam decking will be very nice. Why don’t you consider the purple? It would be striking! LOL I have one question: You have the semi-elliptical openings cut into the side coamings just aft of the cabin bulkhead. How do you keep the mud daubers out?

I just realized that my last entry on the boat renovation showed a very shabby-looking area forward of the centerboard trunk. @Don Ulrich did not receive the boat in this condition. After I bought Southern express from Jay, I finished painting this area. We then met in South Bend, Indiana for the handoff.

@Don Ulrich— The dodger is a nice addition, especially as a starting point for a cruising tent. Love the smiling faces. Is that an auxiliary power device in the port side oarlock?

@Eric Miller As you already know, I’m not attending the event this year. Our summer plans got changed around a bit. I mention it here for everyone else’s benefit.

I would consider adding a couple coats of epoxy to the bare wood spots. Allow it a few days to cure before varnishing. Also, rinse off the blush before applying any varnish., even if you don’t see it. Yes, the varnish on the transom looks to be rather thin. I’d be adding 3 or 4 coats (or more) of spar varnish (not polyurethane) that contains a UB inhibitor. Once you’ve applied the first coat, the remaining coats are super easy. You just swipe it with a Scotchbrite pad, vacuum it, swipe it with a tack cloth, and apply another coat. Wait a day, and repeat.

Adding ‘glass to the board is the way to go. Taping wood strips was a temporary fix. When my sheets get out of kilter, I simply grasp both ends, uncleat them both, and haul them in. No need for precision here.

@Reacher— That’s the intent, but I haven’t tried it that way. When I do, I want someone observing the swing of the locking bolt. It might not clear. I used it again yesterday, engaging the latch after the mast was up. It worked like a champ.

What a great project! Y’all are going to love that little boat.

@Reacher— I used a simple stainless steel butt hinge. Nothing fancy.

Looks great, Amos!

On my BRS 15 I had telltale windows added to the sail. I was used to trimming my sails with telltales located about 10” behind the mast. On my CS 17, the new sails came with telltales on the leeches. This is the conventional way, these days. If the ribbon is sucking behind the sail, ease off on the sheet. A windex at the masthead is a beautiful thing, when I’m inclined to crane my neck up to view it. (I do have one.) In light air, I clip a length of mag tape from an old cassette to the foot of the main or mizzen. It’s easier on the neck. Sorry, no photo.

The varnish finally cooperated. I’ve been working on another project, but first, a story. In January, I took this boat to Florida for some winter cruising. The first time I ever rigged and launched her was on a lake in central Florida, solo. I had a nice first sail. I beached her near the ramp at the end of the day. I took the locking nut out of the main tabernacle. Slowly but firmly, the mast lowered itself while I was lying on the deck. It pinned me like a wrestler. I lay there, arms and legs flailing, calling for help. I was helpless! A fellow boater came to my rescue. Something needed to be done. I’ve been working on a solution ever since. Graham sent me his solution, which required 3D printing or machining. I needed something simpler. It took three design iterations (actually three and a half), but I now have something that actually works. I wanted something I could deploy from the cabin top. To activate it, I hook the ring on the top of the bungee onto the screw. The latch has plenty of strength for holding the mast upright, while I reach down to attach the bolt at the aft end of the tabernacle. This is a closeup of the working end. I have a couple of links of chain at the bottom, so the tension can be adjusted when necessary. You might notice that there’s a section of angle aluminum on the underside. This stiffened it up, eliminating some pesky flexing. To release it, I simply flick the ring off the screw.

Here is the ultimate solution. I saw this on a friend’s boat today. Should work like a champ, as long as you have deep pockets. But this is a good thought starter. I believe somebody here will find a thriftier solution.