Don Silsbe

By the way, my friend has two rigs for this boat. They’re both cat-rigged, but this is the smaller one. He has a larger rig, too.

She’s finally right-side up again. Time to sand down all that peeling paint.

Hirilonde is telling you that your terminology is incorrect. Your batteries each have a capacity of providing 92 hours of electricity at a load of one amp. If you had a 92 amp load, something would melt, catch fire, or explode. I just did some research for my own benefit, which I want to share. AGM and flooded batteries should never be discharged to 50% of capacity. Going below 50% reduces the life of the battery. What is 50%? That was my question! The answer is simple— 12 volts. If your voltage dips below 12, you’re shortening their life. The numbers are completely different for an LePO4, but lithium batteries are lighter in weight. For your application, you want the weight. So, when you check those batteries this winter, and the voltage nears 12.0v, bring ‘em home to charge.

That’s a good plan, Jonathon!

I remove mine for the winter, and I understand that’s not an option for you. My recommendation for you is to go to a Camping World, or other RV dealership, and ask them how they manage all the batteries in their onsite inventory. Go straight to the desk where they schedule service, and ask them. If I were you, I’d charge them fully before storing, and check the battery voltage periodically through the winter. When one gets low, you’ll need to bring it home for a charge. But find out what the big boys do with all their batteries out in the Nebraska winter.

Sorry for the delay. I had to check my facts. It is a Wabi 17, designed by Gilles Montaubin. In our cruising club, the WCTSS, we call it the Red Rocket. She is fast. The plans were hand drawn, and in French. Montaubin didn’t want to sell my friend a set of plans at first, until he learned that he was fluent in French. The writing on the plans also used some antiquated terminology (in French). In spots, Montaubin’s hand lettering was illegible enough that my friend had to call him several times (in French) for clarification. The entry at the bow specified contains a compound curve. When he quizzed Montaubin about how to do this in plywood (it is impossible). Montaubin’s answer was “you know how”. My friend finally figured it out— he needed to switch to the strip-built technique for that section. He did a fine job of blending the two. He has two rigs for her, one large and one small. This photo is the small rig. Would I ever consider building a Wabi 17? HELL NO! But she sure is pretty and fast.

A friend of mine devised this simple system for stepping his mast. It’s more of a funnel than a tabernacle, and there are no moving parts. c4ab4165-ecd6-4eeb-bbaa-3a4c9900d8cc.mov f87718e4-e7b3-4100-87ef-c36b9cf1e4b4.mov This is so simple and easy, I’m gonna give it a try. f87718e4-e7b3-4100-87ef-c36b9cf1e4b4.mov

Apparently. If the throwable cushion isn’t sufficient, I’ll make a removable seat. I hope not to row too much, anyway. I’ve got a Suzuki 2.5, and I don’t plan on doing the EC.

I just found this in Alan’s tour of Southbound. I think this is my answer on oarlock location.

Lube is good. Just be sure to not use petroleum-based lubricants on any plastic. It attacks the molecular structure, and will cause it to fail. By the way, Armor All is petroleum-based. My friends in the Chrysler Materials Lab can't stand the stuff, and they have the data to prove it.

She is outstanding! Way to go!

Getting back to the discussion about rowing. I don’t i tend to do much of this, as my Suzuki works great, when I have it aboard. But there are those other times. I just watched a video of a man ( William Highsmith) cruising in Florida in his CS 17.1. He has a set of oarlocks positioned just forward of the mizzen. What do y’all think about this arrangement?

@JeffM— I plan to cleat my reefing of the leeches to the sprits. What Graham did is clever, and worth considering for a cabin. But most of us, even cabin versions, cleat to the sprit. I agree that raising sails off-wind is difficult. I don’t do that. I always raise them headed into the wind. This is how I do it, if I’m away from the dock: 1. Point the bow directly into the wind, and quickly raise the mizzen. 2. Snug up the mizzen’s snotter & sheets, and cleat them off. The boat will naturally weathervane, if you keep your hands off the tiller. (We call this heaving-to.) Kicking the rudder helps, too. I like the centerboard down for this. I heave-to all the time, when sailing soli. I do this when I need something that’s out of reach, want to take a lunch break, or need to use a bucket for biological matters. 3. Now, with the boat pointing into the wind, you can easily raise and adjust the mainsail. Just be sure the mainsheet is uncleated, and free to let the sail luff. 4. To get under way, bear off the wind by reaching up and backwinding the main. Be sure to lower your rudder first. Off you go!

@musicmanx2— How goes the war? Are you figuring out that boat yet? If you still need advice, I’m planning to be in your neighborhood this March. Send me an email. Donsilsbe@gmail.com

Under $13.