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Don Silsbe

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Don Silsbe last won the day on July 19

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About Don Silsbe

  • Birthday 12/01/1948

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    Tryon, NC
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    Boatbuilding, Sailing, Fishing, Rowing, Weaving, Camping, Travel, Fly Tying, Woodworking, Gardening, and Lutheran Theology. (Thank goodness I'm retired!)
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  1. I understand what you’re saying about raising the sail. In a small boat, it is quite tipsy up forward. It’s certainly worth a try. What I like about wooden boats is that you can try stuff. If you don’t like it, you remove it, use a little filler and paint, and nobody’s the wiser. With regards to tiller lock, I did something like this on my boat. Only difference is that I put it underneath the tiller instead of on top. Works great!
  2. On a serious note, this video may be helpful to you.
  3. I want to apologize for this up-front. But my weird sense of humor is kicking in. The title of this thread is: ”Jack stands for a core sound 17” I just want to say: ”Don stands for a Bay River Skiff 25” Sorry
  4. I’ve been thinking about your question. You got a lot of good responses. But let me throw in my two cents-worth. First “cent”: I came across this video that might be helpful, at least for how to raise and lower the boat while it’s on the trailer. Second “cent”: Sailboats’ hulls are angled on the bottom. They are also smooth and slippery. I have concerns about using jack stands, especially if you’re talking about automotive jack stands. Since the jack stands are vertical, the bottom will hit them at an angle. The top of the jack stand could easily slip outboard. That’s why boat jack stands have a wider stance. And that’s also why the cradle idea is a better solution. The cradle kisses off to the shape of the bottom, and will not slip like a jack stand. No, I would never consider using jack stands, except for directly under the keel.
  5. I’m quite sure they won’t be on the plans. We all add little things like this to our boats for various reasons. Some suggestions were given here. But if you don’t like them, take them off. If you do, feel free to add more.
  6. @Andy B— I hear you! I am also a sucker for a lapstrake boat. I built an Annapolis Wherry for a friend. It made me want to sell my rower and build another wherry!
  7. @Jknight611—It sounds like you keep your sprits attached to the mast. Is that correct? Do you have any photos? I’d like to discuss this with you at the messabout. I’ll bet that Ted Johanson (Padre Point) would like to be in on that, too.
  8. @Randy Jones— I like the sound of that! But I’d be afraid of being sucked out to sea in the middle of the night.
  9. @Chris V— One trip to the messabout would answer it all. I’ll be there with my BRS15. Someone is always there with a CS15. And the Amanda and Spindrift 12’s are always there. You’d have a ball.
  10. I believe the Amanda pre-dates the Spindrift. I do know that it was modified/improved for the builds at Mystic. But I think you’re wrong on that one. You are spot-on, regarding performance. My BRS15 doesn’t handle a chop as well as a CS15, either. But for 95% of my sailing conditions, this is not a factor. ”Better boat” depends upon the way the boat will be used. In flat water, I’ll take the Amanda any day. But the Spindrift will be quicker overall.
  11. That’s the down-side to a d/b. They’re much simpler than a c/b, and take up less room. But they are not bottom-friendly. My approach is to let the d/b be the sacrificial part. It is more easily replaced and repaired than the trunk. So, I do “the rope trick”, and forget about it. Since you’re still building, this is a good time to beef up the trunk, to make it more impact resistant. A little glass tape embedded into a fillet at the lower-aft and upper-forward corners will help the trunk to weather the storm. Just make sure you don’t encroach on the d/b’s work zone. These king posts are also a great place to use something hard like Ash.
  12. A lot depends on how you plan to use the boat— all sailing, or as a yacht tender, or mostly rowing, etc. I’d like to bring the differences in hull shape into the conversation. I don’t have the plans for either, so much of this is based on the little amount of sailing I’ve done in both, and a lot of conjecture. I think the differences between the Amanda and Spindrift’s hull shapes are similar to the difference between the Bay River Skiff and Core Sound hulls. I own a Bay River Skiff 15. I chose it over the Core Sound because I liked the lines better, and had only planned to sail on flat water. I discovered the lower deadrise (angle of the “V” amidships) made for a very solid initial stability. I believe the same holds true with the Amanda as compared to the Spindrift. I have been surprised at how tender the Spindrift is upon entry. (This disappears, once under way.) I believe the Spindrift has a faster hull, however. I also think the Amanda is “fuller” in the stern, which makes it more amenable for outboard motor usage. Just watch Alan roar around another boat in this video taken at capsize camp. (Zoom up to the 4 minute mark.). That’s the Amanda under power! I know that I am touching Superman’s cape here*. I expect a lot of rebuttal from Spindrift owners. That’s OK. That’s what this forum is all about. I need to add that there is a fairly good chance that I might build either boat in the future! The nesting S9 would be a fine replacement for my Two Paw 8, which goes into the bed of the pickup truck when trailer camping. But the Amanda would be a finer replacement for my BRS15, in a few years, when I start to struggle setting the masts in place. They are both fine boats. If you can make it to the Messabout, B&B has both available for in-water evaluations. That will help your decision immensely. * I always reserve the right to be wrong.
  13. I have a basic anchoring question, and I’d like to see how you all handle the situation. When cruising in the coastal marshes of the Carolinas (and elsewhere), the tidal current reverses every 6.5 hours or so. This phenomenon does a fabulous job of pulling out your anchor, right about the time you’re getting into a sound sleep. How do you all manage this situation? A Bahamian Moor?
  14. Since the photo is here, and the question was asked— I believe the left side of this d/b is the forward edge, right? And here’s the video on embedding a nylon cord into the leading edge of your d/b. I now do this on all my rudders as well as c/b’s and d/b’s. It’s very durable. And when it gets really bad, you can always remove it with a heat gun.
  15. Steve— I would not be afraid to use baltic birch in the interior. It’s gotta be more dimensionally stable than standard lumberyard stuff.
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