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Steve W

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Steve W last won the day on September 19

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About Steve W

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  • Birthday 09/12/1961

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  1. I have no worries about having a thread within a thread. I'm learning!
  2. "In any kind of blow the boat sails away on you and holding on to the end of the sprit is a real fool's errand. " I haven't sailed Skeena in a situation that required reefing yet. Close, but not quite. I was able to flatten the sail to de-power. But I wonder if the problem you are having here is because your heave to technique might need adjustment. I have been sailing a cat-ketch Sea Pearl for 12 years. One of it's novelties is that you can sheet in the mizzen and it will walk straight backwards while the main flogs itself right on the centerline. It's while doing this you can walk forward to reef the main. But in order to do this you need to pull up the lee-boads and the rudder. Without doing that, if the boat backs up and gets even a little cross ways, you better be ready to un-cleat the mizzen. I believe there has been capsizes caused by not following this protocol. Last fall at the messabout I had the privilege of sailing Pete's boat "Chessie" and I briefly tested the technique and it sure seemed like the same behavior, only easier. A SP is very tender while the CS seemed so docile in comparison. I cam home excited. I'm anxious to get Skeena out in more wind to test, but I'll let you know. My plan all along was to rig the boat like the simpler plan with cleats on the sprit. Put her in "Cat-Ketch Irons" as described above (C-board and rudder up, mizzen sheeted hard) and then tend to the main. It will require me to poke my head out of the fore-hatch or go forward over the cabin roof to move the down-haul hook. Hopefully we'll get some good wind. We've either had too much or none for much of my sails.
  3. Cool! I love "out of the box" thinking. I hope the results achieve you objectives. Please keep us updated.
  4. If it falls within your travel plans, youre more than  welcome to park Skeena in our driveway or yard during your travels. If your interested send me your email and I’ll send you my address and you can google map if it meets your needs. I’d love to crew for you and Pete especially since I’m building a boat I’ve never sailed.

  5. Todd, as the time gets closer I will tighten up my plans. I'm heading to St Michaels for the MASCF for a whole week. Skeena's first big adventure. Sailing around the Choptank river until Wednesday. If the conditions are right I'll sail around to St Michaels but if not I'll haul and tow. I'm doing the Wye Island trip. A college friend is joining me. If you haven't been to the MASCF you should find time. I'll come home for two weeks and then I'll be back on the road to Vandemere! I may leave the boat somewhere south if I can. We'll see. But when I'm at the messabout I'll probably need crew. I owe Pete a sail as he was gracious to let me helm "Chessie" a lot last year. But he'll probably need crew too! That will be the end of my sailing season probably. It snows not long after that!
  6. Pete, I'm still pretty agile, but I am reminded that once when I was buying a canoe and asked how much it weighed. Salesperson said "62 pounds, but it gets 10 pounds heavier every 10 years". I didn't get the joke back then but I get it now. I hope I'm in as good shape as you when I get your age. I have one line over the stern and the bow strap to undo. I put on my mast fly and push up the main mast. I walk forward holding onto it to steady myself. I step down into the cockpit locker (one foot) and put on the wing nut thingy. I did grind a sort of dome on the end of the bolt to make it self aligning. As I walk back to the stern I pull up the mizzen mast on it's tabernacle. Jay was singing from the Mizzen Tabernacle Choir about it's advantages. He was right. It's pretty great. I used to muscle up the masts on my Sea Pearl and it was OK, but this setup is super easy. I rigged a short line with a couple of snap hooks. One fits on the mizzen snotter eye strap and the other to the main sprit, holding the sprit horizontal. I have a mizzen staysail halyard that I use for the mizzen sprit. I'm guessing by now I'm less than 5 minutes in. I pull the sails out of the cabin (no bags yet!). I marked a Z on the tack of the mizzen to identify it, so next I clip the clew to the sprit and start threading the sail on. Those plastic mast gates are awesome. I tie in the halyard. Repeat for the main and launch. I leave my motor on the boat. I opted to support the boat by the two bunk boards moved into match the longitudinal bulkheads and support the centerboard. I have forgotten to pull the centerboard up on launch so I wrote "centerboard" on my wind indicator. I'll probably forget both someday. Anyway, I'm still trying to improve the process. Paul, that seems clear. I opted for the simplicity of having just one tack hook for the main and mizzen that I move higher to reef. So no problem there. My challenge is that the reefing lines for the aft part of the sprits are tied to the sprit, go up through an alternate clew grommet, back to a small reefing block and forward to a jam cleat. It's 4 lines that need to be removed and stowed. My sprits don't fit below in the cabin so I can't leave the sails on. I've decided to stow the sprits on top of the masts during travel, but in order to remove the sails to stow in the Cabin, I have to remove the four reefing lines. I'm looking for a way to speed that process up and also not have so much clutter on the deck. I did have an "ah-ha!" moment when I realized how nice a sail shape you can get with a reefed sail!
  7. I spent another great day sailing up Conesus lake yesterday. The wind was light, but I wanted to get a chance to test the long shaft Suzuki 2.5 I added. I had bought a short shaft and while the cav plate was below the hull and it performed well, if I went forward the whole transom lifts a bit and the prop loses it's bite. I had a friend who is buying the SS motor and I got a new long shaft model. What a difference. It's quieter and even going forward to the anchor locker the prop stayed in the water. I crashed through some big powerboat wakes without a problem. I wish I had thought about that before I ordered the motor but the next builder will know. My question of the day is what to do with the reefing lines. I have gotten my act down and I have the boat rigged in a short time. I'd say already less than 15 minutes. But the reefing lines need to be threaded and run to the cleats. My question is do you always rig them and if so where do they stay when the boats on the trailer. Anyone have a system worked out?
  8. What are the black guides on the anchor roller made of?
  9. I like how you added that piece of rub rail on the inward side of your anchor roller to prevent wear, I like the cabin lock simplicity and I like your sprit saddles. I'm going to copy all of them tonight. Not sure where to get SS tubing. I might have some aluminum around. As for launching from the cockpit......put a longer piece of light line (3/16") right to the anchor shackle. Bring it back to the cockpit. With the way you have those stops you could angle it off to port easily. Put a cleat on the top deck just like the ones to starboard. When you deploy your anchor, this tether line goes right with it. I've been doing that for years, and other than the fact that that line can get pretty grungy in some cases, it has never seemed to interfere with the anchor. When you retrieve the anchor from forward, just grab the small line to bring aft and re-tether. That is some pretty country up there.
  10. Alan and Graham, Thank you for taking all the time to answer all of these questions. I am very impressed with the sailing characteristics of Skeena. Sunday I sailed up Sodus Bay on Lake Ontario. I told my crew we should get 2/3 of the way upwind to Sodus point and we could motor the rest of the way to catch the Bills/Jets game at 1pm. At 1:04 we walked into the restaurant just in time for kickoff, having made it under sail alone. Amazing performance. I recognize the design challenges. I am comfortable for day sailing and short overnight trips not changing anything when I can watch the weather window. I built the boat mostly stock. I do have some of the things Alan mentions (solar panel, masthead anchor light, anchor roller (yikes!)) that puts weight higher. For longer trips where the weather isn't predictable enough, I'm planning to make some changes. putting hinges and latches on the bunk lockers. I can see all the contents running all over the cabin in a knockdown. Using the WB more. Being careful how I load gear. Adding the mast float. I think it will have to go on my mizzen as my main has a windex and 360 nav/anchor light already. How do I get one? I also think Graham is right in tempering hysteria. I think the being prudent with the mainsheet in hand and reefing properly is still prudent. Steve
  11. A couple of questions. Would you expect similar results with the 20.3 How do I make my masts float? I followed the plans and rivited the track, but I am sure that the mast isn't water tight. Pool noodles? I always thought a square foot of air supported 62 pounds. Am I wrong?
  12. I've been thinking a lot about everyone in NC and along the southeastern coast. I've been through my share of ice storms and big northern snow storms and even the famous Blizzard of '77 while growing up in Buffalo, NY, but I can't imagine that kind of uncertainty and damage that a hurricane brings. Please stay safe. Meanwhile, my punch list is getting shorter. I admit I sailed with my forward hatch held down by gravity. I stole Graham's clever idea and now she closes nice with a gasket. I used some cherry I had around for the gussets and an old maple 1 1/4" closet rod for the knobs and threaded receiver . I have a bit of sanding but I'm happy with the process. I used a Fostner bit to drill a hole hole big enough to nest the bolt head (knob piece) and the nut (part attached to hatch). I glued in the bolt and the nut with thickened epoxy. They weren't perfectly true to the center so I chucked the knobs in my drill press and used a rasp to get them nice and true and followed with sandpaper. A poor substitute for a lathe, but it worked well. I used a fostner bit to remove the paint off the inside of the hatch to glue in the receiver. Tonight I'll remove, sand and varnish. I have a night time X-country race, but I may get sailing tomorrow or Sunday. All in all it was a fun little project. My goal was to make sure the whole mess didn't extend below the hatch frame. My next step is to make a screen to Velcro to keep the critters out.
  13. Good Luck B & B crew. Thinking about you.
  14. So Graham's estimate of the value of a nice model means they worked for about 10 bucks an hour. Smile everyone and get back to sanding! 😁
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