Mike Vacanti

Todd, Holy cow, thanks for sharing your harrowing story.

Here is a video that shows one way to do this. This channel has a lot of interesting boatbuilding videos. Mark a waterline on a dinghy

On the CS 20 page there is descriptive text but the pictures being referred to don't show up.

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There is a German company that markets an auto-inflating masthead float that might keep the boat from turtling. It's not cheap but it would greatly reduce the windage compared to a solid float, auto-inflating masthead float

Peter mentioned a breakaway cleat, here is a great example available through Duckworks

Here is a description of a poor man's CNC: DIY NACA foils

When I wrote a reply to your thread right above the box where I typed my response there are several editing buttons. One of them controls strike-through. Simply select the text that you inadvertently enabled strike-through and then click the strike-through button. Edited: I tried to go back and edit my post and I notice that the strike-through button is not available when editing an exisiting post.

Is the filler oil-based?

Man, that is a really good looking boat...

I stand corrected, I saw a picture on the Ronstan website that showed a lashing through the center and I incorrectly assumed that was the only way to rig the block. I too much prefer lashings, they are much quieter than shackles.

I don't think the block on your mizzen sheet is rigged correctly. The lashing should pass through the hole in the center of the sheave.

What a beautiful boat, I really like that color.

Kennneee is right, what you already have may work just fine. Just don't paint the whole boat to test it out.

I'm pretty sure it's not blush that causes the issue. I scrupulously cleaned the cured epoxy before applying the primer but it still never dried. I've read explanations for the problem but can't explain it myself.