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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/18/2019 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    I have been designing the Mathew Flinders for myself for more than a decade off and on, long before we did the Mk3's. What I was trying to achieve was to design the ultimate small voyaging boat that could easily be trailed behind a reasonable size vehicle and yet be be capable of crossing any ocean. She had to be built tough and live well for two people with room for a third person. She is not intended to replace the mk3's as they are great boats, but for anyone who wants to go up to the next level. I went through hundreds of iterations till I finally got it and I am very pleased with final outcome. As you can imagine I am really excited to see her come to life with Jay and Carol. I started at 22 feet and it finally grew to 23'4" as I massaged the ergonomics. When Jay ordered the boat, I did a lot of thinking about his comfort plus I had some interest from people who are a lot larger than me so at the last minute I scaled her by 5% to give 6'4' headroom with the final length at 24'6". If anyone has to have 6'6" headroom they can raise the cabin sides. The trailing weight will be around 4000" depending on how they load it. I am still planning to build the 23'4" version. One of the things that I worked hard on was the range of stability. She has positive stability to 180 degrees which more than meets the EU ISO rules for ocean sailing. I have attached one of the many stability curves that I made with the red and blue curves showing a best and worst case vertical center of gravity. That is to allow for builders to make their own modifications and still meet the high range of stability. I was also able to calculate the Flicka A well known small cruising boat, @ 20 degrees for comparison.
  2. 3 points
    Show coat to check my fairing. A couple of spots that need some work but generally OK.
  3. 2 points
    Wasserboot, I did not know that they made anyone that tall. It is important that can sleep comfortably so I take back my statement that nobody would need a bunk that long. If scaled lengthwise another 5% the midship berths would be 2.16 and the quarter berth would be 2.774 and the length of the boat would be 7.825 long.
  4. 2 points
    Wasserboot, The berths on the MF246 are 6'9" or 2.057 long. The quarter berth is even longer. I would not scale it any more because the volume increases too fast. It could be scaled by different length , beam and height factors but it rapidly becomes a new design. You surely do not need any more length in the bunks so moving bulkheads starts to get more complicated. As for windage, less is always more desirable. I think that it is still a reasonable trade off as the extra power gained from the stability helps to overcome it.
  5. 2 points
    I sailed a Tartan 27 for many years. It was one of the first fiberglass designs, and it had a short heavy keel with a centerboard launched therefrom, similar to Matt. It was a really good design. The keel kept it upright, and the CB really bit hard upwind. It pointed well. I think this is a good approach for the boat designed for these uses.
  6. 2 points
    Wasserboot, I am glad that you like our MF 234 and 246. I think that she will be an excellent boat for your waters. We have similar conditions here in Pamlico Sound which is large and shallow. Alan and I went through a list of boats to add to our web site yesterday. Alan has taken on the web site and has done a great job but we have been overloaded with work lately but digging our way out so expect to see some changes soon. Yes we will be listing the plans on the site.
  7. 2 points
    Woo! If I remember correctly, Graham, you're taller than my 5'8" so I'd probably be as happy as you with the 23'4" design. Does it have standing headroom for you? It's hard to believe you've managed to get that much headroom into an attractive boat of that length - That tumble-home really does the trick to keep things in proportion. My 20 foot keelboat barely has sitting headroom! And is that a dagger board or a centerboard? Either way, with the board up it would be easy to anchor in the shallows and walk ashore. What's the air draft? I've got to get under a ~7 meter bridge to get to the ocean.
  8. 2 points
    Slight deviation from the plans from now as I require an elevated deck for fly fishing. Front deck has a freeboard around ankle height and lower one just above knees (for rougher water) - perfect. Went with a H90 20mm foam to try and gain some weight back due to the modifications. Deck panels were vacuum bagged on a piece of 30mm MDF board/table and beams using cryovac bag rolls.
  9. 1 point
    Hi all, at the 2018 Messabout, Graham mentioned his design of a 24 foot cat ketch that would be blue water capable. We were instantly interested! Our CS20.3 is a fantastic boat, quite seaworthy, fast, fun and easy to trailer about, but I am a big guy and the cabin of our Southern Express was “kinda tight” for me. We have a blue water boat that I thought would be a maxi-trailerable but after several very expensive moves I realized.......missed my goal. So, I have the pleasure of introducing..... Mathew Flinders!!
  10. 1 point
    Yes i think i am only 200cm not 202 anymore. The disks in the spine get thinner the older i get. Perhaps we just wait a little bit and shrink to fit the smaller boats…
  11. 1 point
    There are a few others of us on this forum in the 2m range (I was but I am shrinking). I think we are the standard others aspire to be. And I appreciate Graham's and other designers willingness to adjust boats to fit!
  12. 1 point
    Yes i wish i would be made a little bit shorter. It is even not easy to get shoes in Size 13. Only Rubberboots and basketballsneakers… 😉
  13. 1 point
    We have all the bulkheads in place that define the structure of the boat, I am 6 feet 3 inches (191 cm) and I have plenty of room everywhere. There is a huge amount of storage, and still have 66 gallons on fresh water, the holding tank is properly sized too. The icebox area will be insulated with 4 inches on the side and 6 inches on bottom and still have a generous area for the cold plate and refrigerated area for two. The 2 main berths are a comfortable sitting height when in the settee mode. We have had much larger boats that were more cramped in the “hi useage” areas.
  14. 1 point
    Peg and I attempted to sail out of Boat Harbor, Port Townsend a while ago with Deluge (CS17.3), which involves negotiating a very narrow channel bordered by a jetty, in our case, with the wind on our nose and no outboard. Short story is we foundered and hit the jetty - and retreated, (which involved me jumping overboard and pushing us back out into the channel). After a quick review of the boat, I figured our egos took the worst of the damage. The CB leading edge had a few scrapes, but the hull seemed fine. I've since had the boat out in a 15-20 knot crossing of Puget Sound through some nasty chop in which the hull took a real pounding. Again - all good. Today though, I just discovered some delamination on the cabin sole, and a hairline crack on the outside of the hull - hopefully discernible in these photos: About 4 " to the right of the keel you can see a hairline crack. The inside, 2nd photo, shows the delamination and broken fibers. My plan is to sand about 10" square around the crack on the outside, then layup a 6-8" square of 10" fiberglass cloth, feather the edges, and paint. On the inside, this may be overkill, but I'm thinking I'll sand out and patch the delamination, then layup a layer of kevlar over the entire, exposed, cabin sole. We were drifting when we hit the rocks, never really able to get way on. I suspect the damage occurred when the keel, which must have ridden up on a rock, slipped off of it, bringing the weight of the hull down on the rock. Pretty sure the ballast tank was full, so that's a lot of weight. Does my approach seem reasonable? Better ideas? While I was under the boat, I also discovered this: I haven't gotten the board out yet, but this is definitely a failure of the butt joined centerboard segment I'd added to bring the length up to current specs. More on this after I get the board out, but for now, my plan is to sand it back well beyond the segment and tip, and lay it up possibly with a light weight kevlar and a light weight glass over the top of that to keep from going crazy managing the kevlar. If this happened during our jetty mishap it certainly wasn't visible. But perhaps we weakened it? I embedded several carbon fiber rods I had laying around the shop before laying up the board - I suspect they're what's holding it together at the moment. Again, let me know if you have any thoughts or advice on my repair. I'm not really in a mood to build another entire CB unless Alan or Graham think I need to. Fred
  15. 1 point
    Thanks guys, I did call them up and they said they would try to send them to me! I sent them an email and am waiting to hear back, is this the best email to reach them at bandbkitboats@gmail.com? I am waiting to hear back. I don't want to be obnoxious, but wanted to make sure my email went though ok haha. I am very excited to get out on the boat.
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Joe, A wood centerboard is the most expedient way for the home builder to make. On the MF I wanted the toughest board that we could make. By machining two half molds out of MDF, it gives Jay a simple way to to lay up a solid glass board that should be practically indestructible. There is no wood to swell and there is no need for a lead tip. Not to mention that it will be a perfect foil. We made the rudders on the big cat this way and they have been through a fair bit of abuse so far without any issues. If Jay can get his to pop out of the mold without damage, you could lay yours up in the same molds.
  18. 1 point
    Have made some progress lately on internal members, centerboard, and centerboard trunk. Don't have the internal structures glued-in yet, but I finished the centerboard trunk piece today so I think that will come soon! Have coated both the inside of the centerboard trunk, plus the entire centerboard, with graphite + epoxy mixture to try and minimize friction / binding in the rotation of the board. It starts off very shiny and the sands down to dull grey.
  19. 1 point
    We have been working on Mathew or Matt when things are going well. Every thing in the cabin is dry fit, and when we walk around in the cabin it is amazing the available space. Here is the planview of the interior and a profile view.
  20. 1 point
    I think he built it to get in and out at the ramp before launching to do stuff. 😎
  21. 1 point
    Chessie's Reboarding Ladder is finished, installed, and in-the-shop tested. Here's what it looks like. Stowed. Deployed. Notice that I followed Paul's advice and applied "no-skid" to both steps. Left foot on bottom step -- torso mostly under water. Ready to raise up. Raising torso out of the water. When in-the-water I might have to use both feet on the bottom step. Left leg fully extended and torso completely out of the water. Left foot just off the bottom step ready to raise it all the way up and over the transom. Almost there. Approximate force diagram for just one side of the ladder. I consider 116 lbs sheer stress on the hinge is modest and will not be a problem for the strap hinge (well bedded) with #12 X 1" SS FHWS. For the dry-fit I used 3/16" line. It felt inadequate for the full 200 lb weight. I went with 1/4" -- and it feels much more stable with less stretch. Complete on-the-water testing at the end of the month.
  22. 1 point
    The second annual Capsize camp is right around the corner. Scheduled for the 20-20 (weekend after next). If you can't make it to the shop don't worry! we'll have another one with more advanced warning. The schedule will be the same as last year which was basically sail around and capsize your boat as you like! We hope to demo version 2 of the mast head float as well. -Alan
  23. 1 point
    Steve- It is always a good idea to step back and see all the great work you have done. I struggle sometimes trying not to think of all that I still have to do. It can overwhelm. Nothing like taking on a project like this to make you feel so good and then so bad sometimes. A while back I had a life changing incident and was told I wouldn’t ever finish my boat. Seeing her in the water meant more to me than I ever imagined. When you step back and see the reflection of the water in that beautiful hull you might forget some of the dust and aching arms. But don’t forget completely or you might build another boat..... Your boat is gorgeous and the only one in the world just like it. You created it and money can’t buy that!! Cheers, Ken
  24. 1 point
    Beautiful design! Reminds me a bit of some keel centerborder that are used here on the german and dutch north sea coast where you have to deal with the shoal waddensea and the deeper but sometimes rough north sea. Do you intend to put her on your website with some more specs and drawings? Are plans available? Could be a perfect boat for the time when retirement comes near…
  25. 1 point
    Glorious Fantastic job. Enjoy the Good Times ahead
  26. 1 point
    Here are photos of the ladder parts: Notice the center knots haven't been undone -- and that the beginning & end of each knot has been marked with masking tape. Also, starboard & port so they won't be accidentally switched (hole placements not perfectly symmetrical). Here is a closeup of where the two frames are hinged on the 5/16th rod.
  27. 1 point
    I spoke with Graham a year or so ago about the Matthew Flinders design. Graham told me that while working on the CS17 MK3 design he became interestied in the design challenge of building as small as possible while preserving performance, safety and function in the class. The CS 17MK3 and CS 20 MK3 are winners in their class so I was intrigued when I heard that Graham and Alan had begun to focus on a live aboard. I have long dreamed of owning a live aboard but whenever I have sailed one they have not seemed right. They felt to big. That seems to fit perfectly. I am very pleased that you and Carol have taken the lead on this project. I know it may at times seem overwhelming, but from what I have seen you two are more than up to the task. I hope you will keep us posted. It has been long enough since my last build that I think I am ready for another. Joe
  28. 1 point
    Mark, I am sure the CS20.3 will work perfectly for you. My wife an I have spent as long as 2 weeks on ours and it worked out pretty well sailing the coastal area. My sailing instructor told the class “ sail the smallest boat you can afford” . Took me a while to figure that one out but he is absolutely correct. The CS20.3 has proved to be quite seaworthy, our sailing area is the GOM and I have never had the slightest concern about our boat. The Mathew Flinders is a Graham Byrnes design. Mathew Flinders was a English cartographer in the late 1700s that charted the Australian coastline, Graham’s homeland. Alan has done a magnificent job converting the design to the huge pile of parts, that so far fit together perfectly. Boy there is a bunch of parts! We are standing bulkheads now, and I’ll post some more pictures in the next day or so.
  29. 1 point
    Chessie's recent encounter with a scary microburst has jolted me to build a reboarding ladder based on photos posted by Alex on 12/25/2015. Here are pixs of it "dry fitted" to the transom: First in its stowed position. Next -- it's deployed. The bottom step is about 16" below the water line. That step is about 11" wide and I should be able to place both feet on it. That will allow the strength of both legs to raise myself outn of the water and step onto the aft deck. The frame is white oak and the treads 1/4" and 1/2" marine ply. Hinge leaves are 1" X 2" X 1/8" SS with 3/4" yellow pine blocking behind the transom. The steel rod is 5/16" threaded SS. The ladder will be field tested July 27 at the Corsica River 77th Annual Regatta hosted by the Corscia River Yacht Club. Report and more photos to follow.
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Hey Murray. I did all 3 coats in 24 hours, hence hot re-coating. The only glass is the tape used on interior inside corners as per plans. Cloth on the exterior would be a disaster due to 14 overlaps in the hull. Add to that my goal is almost always to stay light. Hope this helps and feel free to follow up. Very few of these have been built and only 3 I know of have been documented in this forum. There hasn't been any discussion on the Lapwing in years. Tom Lathrop, who conceived the boat is still active in the forum. In case he misses this thread update I bet he wouldn't mind a pm if you want some insider info I may not be aware of. Oh, and thanks for the compliment. Dave
  32. 1 point
    Yep, I have several fillet tools and a gloved finger, but still need to sand or scrape before placing tape unless working green. Then after the tape is on and fill coat applied I can still feel bumps and edges that I know will appear through the painted surface. So I like the round scraper better than the sandpaper and dowel approach. The straightedged scrapers work very well for taking the selvage edge off FG tape, but there are still detectable edges so I have been fairing them. The little round scraper is working well for me in final finishing the inside curve. At my skill level, I like tape better than cutting strips, pulling threads, using peel ply, etc. Along with Alan’s videos and others on YouTube, check out Russell Brown’s videos on OffCenterHarbor.com to see a master at work. I am not there yet and probably never will be. The 10-foot Rule applies to my boats…
  33. 1 point
    Bee doing a little more on the OC20-B dry fitting the gunwhales, decks and fore deck. made some hatches and am generally just beavering away at it. I have a little bit of concern over the profile on the fore deck but i think if i remove it and cut away a little more on the shear right up by the bow it should sort itself out. My wife say's i am just over thinking it but i am sure there is a little and i mean little run of. The first second and third pictures show it. The forth is my new helper sleeping on the job
  34. 1 point
    Outstanding. Great construction of a great design. Very happy for you and B&B.
  35. 1 point
    NO, I DID NOT , BUT IS HOLDING ALL RIGHT
  36. 1 point
    I BOUGHT THE RAVENSWOOD KIT FROM KUDZU CRAFT. IT COMES WITH A PLYWOOD COAMING. I LIKED THE IDEA OF SEWING THE SKIN TO THE TO THE COAMING BUT NOT THE EXTRA WORK FOR BUILDING THE LAMINATED COAMING. THIS IS HOW I DID IT.
  37. 1 point
    Congratulations on launching Rosie. She just looks beautiful, specially floating in her element. Egbert
  38. 1 point
    Ken, BRAVO ZULA!
  39. 1 point
    Wow, that is fantastic. I've dreamed of doing the Great Loop and that looks like a perfect boat for that. Congratulations on launch.
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Sounds like the water ballast saved the day. Thanks for sharing Pete.
  42. 1 point
    A severe test for Chessie -- She gets an A+ . . My compliments to Graham and all at B & B Yacht Designs! With a nice weather forecast I launched Chessie on Thursday (June 13) from Leesylvania State Park for a two-day cruise. Then, when anchored at Pohick Bay getting ready to prepare dinner, a fisherman came by and warned me of bad weather expected. I checked my smartphone and the outlook was very different from what I expected. This was about 5pm and the sky looked nice and we were 10nm from the launch ramp. I decided to abandon the cruise and head for the ramp expecting to arrive by about 7pm. However, at about 1/3 the way rain and wind set in. Fortunately we were close to the middle of the Potomac where it is almost 2nm wide. Quickly the wind picked up and the heavy rain reduced visibility to the point I couldn't see either shore. In fact I couldn't read the compass or see any details on the GPS -- even the bow of the boat was hard to see. Upon launch I had already topped the ballast tank. Thank goodness! The worst of the wind was easily 40 knots, probably gusting to 50! The Honda 4 (long-shaft) was wide open and making better than 5 knots (when wind at 15 - 20 knots). But it wasn't enough to keep Chessie into the wind. The sails had been furled & sheeted midship and all made ready for the worst. But when we were blown sidways to the wind, Chessie was on her port beam and I was at the helm (starboard side) trying to hold on (OBM also on starboard). My guess is that she was (in the worst gusts) almost 80 degrees over. When the gusts eased a bit, she would come up a little and off her beam slightly. The mainsail became mostly unfurled! I thought then that she would go-over! But the mainsail didn't get into the water and the cockpit coaming never shipped any. However, the footwell scuppers couldn't keep up with the rain and water was about an inch or so deep in the footwell. It was all very frightening. I had never experienced anything like it. I felt very helpless -- all I could do was "hold on" and stay at the helm and try to bring her up into the wind. When she was sideways to the wind and healed way over, she was beyond any control. As things began to lighten up and visibility returned, I could see the lee shore in sunshine. It was much closer than when it all started. It all lasted about 20 minutes (probably less) until the wind reduced to 15 to 20 knots and the rain reduced so that I could see all shores. Curiously, there was no lightening. But all over the area the cloud formations were strange and omnimus. Into the 15 to 20 knot wind and chop, Chessie would make a little over 5 knots at full throttle (4,700 rpm). The tide was probably helping a bit. When the mainsail became unfurled, I thought that the sail ties had been blown off. But when finally on shore I found that they were all (4 or 5 of then) bunched up at the clue. That didn't happen to the mizzen. Home by 9pm. Inspection this morning shows NO DAMAGE -- and the cabin and everything that was stowed DRY! I wouldn't want to experience it again, but Chessie (and her designers) deserve an A+ !! PS -- Annie is thankful that "I'm home safe" and grades Chessie with an AA+. Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad
  43. 1 point
    I have been wanting to do this for a long time to speed up my packing up and unpacking the boat but other jobs had priority. I watched Jay packing up his rig and he inspired me to get it done. I measured the gap between my two masts in their trailing position which turned out to be 1 1/4". The main mast being in the tabernacle puts the track down and head aft. I elect to stow the mizzen mast with the track facing up and head forward. This makes the masts about level athwarts where the crutches need to be for stowing the sprits even though the tracks are on opposite of the mast. This is because the mast diameters are apposite where each of the sprit crutches need to be. I made the crutches out of 3/4" ply and it takes about 3 feet of 1/4" shock cord for each crutch. It takes just seconds to move the loop of shock cord under the masts while gathering the rigging and passing over the top of the sprits and putting the loop into the slot. There is no tendency for the crutch to fall over and the setup is very firm when both shock cords are secured. Like Jay and Chick, I leave all of the lines attached except for what I need to undo to remove the sails. Where I differed is not pulling the sprits up the masts but let my snotters go to the stopper knots. This puts them on the deck making the masts easier to lower. If anyone wants I can email them a pdf of the crutch shapes, they can adjust it to their mast stowage setup. I have not sealed them yet. I will pad the bearing surfaces when they are coated.
  44. 1 point
    i used this technique on my ravenswood with nylon cloth, good results not that difficult. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ogpa14Xo1yk
  45. 1 point
    Sorry, I'm not much for social media, so pretty much any excuse is good enough for me not to post something, but it turns out that Deluge did make it to the water the other day. I'd say she's been pretty impatient with her owner for quite a while now, and pretty much took off like a shot from the boat ramp. Being new to the boat, and new to sailing a ketch, it was a bit of work for us to keep things glued together as it were. We sailed right out into 15 to 18 knots, just minutes after I'd declared to Peg - 'Ahh, let's just skip those reefing lines - there's no way we'll need those today.' I was expecting 10 or less, but the boat managed it all without so much as a ruffled feather and sailed just beautifully. We had no bucket, so couldn't fill the ballast tank all the way full, but even at that, the ballast helped quite a lot. We had a compete blast - what a great boat! I was surprised how stressful the very first trailer trip was. Neither of us have ever trailered anything before, let alone a boat. We had a few mishaps -- best not to go into the details -- but in the end all made it home safe and sound. Here are a few flicks. We went out again the following day with only 5 knots of wind (reefing lines in) - a lot less excitement, but just a gorgeous day on the water. Lake Washington is around 73 degrees at the moment. We really had a lot of fun, returning to the ramp around 7 pm feeling all perky figuring we had The Coolest Boat this side of the Cascades, when a family comes sailing up in their red Amphicar. The only one of those I ever saw was in a Popular Mechanics magazine at least 55 years ago. Happens every freaking time I get feeling all perky and puffy. On another note, we're heading to the Port Townsend Wooden Boat festival soon, and I've been hoping, Graham, I'd see you there. I'm doubtful though, since I haven't seen that Carlita's registered. I just learned today that we'll be on display in the courtyard, which is pretty much the center of the festival. Either we won some sort of lottery or I'd say the festival administrators must be pretty interested in your boat Graham - I hope like hell there aren't too many glaring and embarrassing quirks in my build. If you're not going to make it out - please feel free to send us any promo or marketing materials you feel like, and we'll rave about B&B all we can. I'd love to put a couple of those B&B decals you have on Carlita on Deluge... If anyone else is in the PNW and can make it to the festival, please come find us!! Thanks Graham, Alan, and all the B&B gang for a really great boat. fred
  46. 1 point
    So after a rather nasty week. ( I had to put my hound to sleep due to her fear of thunderstorms which has been ongoing for 4 years, she was getting very destructive and my wife and i were hostages in our own home. ) Nuff whining The Boat has been turned over which was a task in itself but only due to my gravel driveway. Turning it over was not very hard but the piano dolly's i had under it did not do well when they ran of the plywood onto the gravel. That being said it is done and i am very happy with the end result. I think we had a bout 9 or 10 body's . here are a few pic's I think this might be the largest 20' boat i have seen and is starting to look right sexy like
  47. 1 point
    When you apply the epoxy on flat areas, be sure to "squeegee" it. I use the plastic squeegee that you buy for spreading Bondo. When possible as on horizontal surfaces, just pout the epoxy on and spread it around with the squeegee. Go back and forth until the glass is clear, then move the resin puddle on "down the line".
  48. 1 point
    Drew,... I think because it's useful in-cabin stowage. In the Cs20.3 the bunks are 7' 6.5" long and my legs won't even reach Blk#4. I considered the space aft of the bunks to be very hard to access -- so I fabricated drawers in which I could keep galley equipment and other stuff. See my posting at: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/9727-battery-base-pull-out-galley/ Also, if I can't stow the drop boards up under the deck between the fwd hinged hatch and the aft sliding hatch, I'll have shelving up under the cockpit deck between Blk#4 and Blk#5, port and starboard. Each shelf will be a distance under the deck such that two drop boards could be stacked. The other shelf will be useful for things that are kinda flat -- like charts, log books, etc.

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