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Showing content with the highest reputation since 01/14/2025 in all areas

  1. In the past I have struggled with glassing fillets due to the strings at the corners of the glass strips and having three pieces of glass merging into one corner. I did a few experiments and found that rounding the end of the piece of glass eliminated the strings and made for neater better epoxied corners. It does add about a minute of work to each strip in total. But I think it saves a lot of time fussing with the corners and or sanding later. For me this seems better.
    3 points
  2. Here are some photos of the tiller construction and finish:
    2 points
  3. I'd be very tempted to go with an EP Carry motor. It's less powerful but has a number of advantages in this case (small Spindrift dinghy). You can take the motor with you pretty easily if you're worried about it being stolen. The motor is in the top not the pod so no worry about striking bottom and damaging the seal of the pod. Downside is the motor needs to be protected from rain/salt water. The prop is easily replaced and the bevel gear is easily replaced. Can use any battery even a very small one just what is needed. No need for proprietary bulky battery. I've never had the chance to try one but i think it would be ideal for cruising. Might not quite hit hull speed but other than that. I believe they also came out with a larger version recently.
    1 point
  4. I guess I should amend that: 1 quart of primer, 1 of color. But if you're using primer as a fill coat, then you'll probably want two qts of primer to make sure you have enough to paint, sand, paint, sand, etc. Btw, I used Jamestown's deck paint for the floor inside, the paint with the grit already in it. Worked swell. I repainted those areas 7 years later with the same stuff, still worked swell.
    1 point
  5. I can do two coats on the hull of my 17 Mk I with a quart and still have some left over.
    1 point
  6. I still have a lot to do on the interior, but I did make it to Florida. I really love sailing this boat. IMG_6994.mov
    1 point
  7. Hi Tim, thanks for asking. Sadly the big boat didn't make it through. But we are afloat again on a different boat, and we got the Spindrift back! I've just been experimenting with a standing lug rig on it, I'll post about that when I get round to it.
    1 point
  8. We've had LOTS of cold weather including several days in a row with subzero temps. I haven't checked the boat in over three weeks, both battery banks read 12.5 so all seems to be going well. It was slightly above freezing today so I charged for about two hours. I appreciate everyone's suggestions. I don't think I'm hooking up an electric snow machine any time soon and as much as I'd like to come out to North Carolina for some winter sailing, I think I'm stuck here 'till spring. I hope my log isn't too distracting. Stay warm out there!
    1 point
  9. And, I really appreciate those access ports in the sole of the cockpit. A few cups of water get into the compartments during a season but I’m easily able to sop the water out by reaching in with a rag. I leave the ports open during winter storage.
    1 point
  10. She looks Awesome!. hmm that color reminds me of another boat...
    1 point
  11. She is looking great. Don't forget to take some on the water picks when you end up someplace warm!
    1 point
  12. 1 point
  13. David, Good evening. I am building my second Core Sound 17 MkIII. I sold my first boat, tried a Precision 18 which was a disappointment, so now I am building a second boat. My daughter is building a pocket ship. It has been a slow project for her due to work. It seems like a good kit. It does not have the room of the Core Sound. My wife and I like the Core Sound since it feels very secure, stable, and manageable in a variety of conditions. Our other boat is a Wayfarer Dinghy. The Core Sound is the boat we sail to relax and to do over nights. We don't want to conquer the world, just get away from it for a while. I am biased but I think with good reason. I hope this helps. If you have questions please ask. Regards
    1 point
  14. Bumping to add to the firehose idea. Split type 1 size C euro firehose in half along the creases using tin snips. Sanded the inside with my permagrit block. On the (pine) gunnels, added 10mm thick self-adhesive foam rubber. Using contact cement and a plastic hammer, glued the hose all the way along (don't forget some extra gunnel on the transom). This has held up perfectly for several months of cruising. Doing it again, I'd blunt the bow a bit more and add more padding, as that's often the parking brake . I'm really happy with the glue solution as I wanted to save the weight (and effort) of hardwood gunnels and/or rot-proof fasteners, while still making it removable. Build thread has more photos
    1 point
  15. Hi David, Yes, the Belhaven has a lot more interior space than the CS17 mk3. I positioned an updated CS20 mk3 which has more cabin height than the 17, on top of our newly updated Belhaven and sliced off the outboard couple of feet so that you can see the space difference on center and at the quarter beam. The B19 is green. The CSmk3's were designed for beach cruising and events like the Everglades Challenge where you need to be able to row. The water ballast can be added or subtracted to enable beach launching, be lighter for light air performance and towing with a smaller vehicle and sail in very skinny water. I have dragged Carlita all over the country with a 1.9 liter vehicle. The Belhaven was designed as a normal trailer sailor and has more freeboard and a shorter cockpit. There is no bridge deck making it easier to go below. The bunks are about 4" higher making sitting a bit more comfortable. The plans were drawn way back using 2d CAD making it not accurate enough for CNC cutting. We have been updating her starting with 3d modeling her hull. The cabin was raised a couple of inches by one owner so we raised the freeboard by 2" while we were at it.
    1 point

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