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Showing content with the highest reputation since 06/06/2020 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    @Pete McCrary Thank you for posting your owners manual! Wow. Very organized and detailed. I've already picked up a few tricks that I can try on my Core Sound 20 Mk 2.
  2. 2 points
    Page 136 of "the book" covers bonding fasteners and resin bushing holes. https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/GougeonBook-061205-1.pdf An excellent practice for all hardware on a wood boat. If all bolts and screws are drilled, filled, and drilled then all the better for preventing water from getting to the wood and causing swelling which will crack an epoxy joint in no time. Especially watch out for fasteners into long pieces of solid wood such as the transom beam. For bedding compound I use butyl rubber and make a little doughnut of it around the washer of my fastener or on the contact pad of the piece of hardware. It oozes out nicely, seals the joint and does not harden. Same stuff they used to install windows in RVs. This much would least you for years and years. Store it in a plastic bag because it does dry out a little after the first year or so (like play dough). https://www.amazon.com/White-Butyl-Tape-Mobile-Single/dp/B07BJLHH24/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=butyl+tape&qid=1593041102&sr=8-5 They also make a butyl rubber caulk which is more pasty for bedding things with more surface area where the tape which is more or a soft pliable rubber would be too stiff to be squeezed by the fasteners. So for something like the Eye bolt I'd use butyl rubber or nothing because it would only leak into the anchor well or onto the deck so it doesn't really need to be watertight. Also be very careful when installing hardware not to crank down mindlessly on the nut our you will simply crush the wood and and thus crack the epoxy seal. I try to never use power drivers to install fasteners to the final tightness because it's so easy to over torque them.
  3. 2 points
    J, thanks for asking the question and you other guys for the guidance. I was just pondering the same task myself. What is the preferred non hardening bedding compound?
  4. 2 points
    J I am by no means a pro but the process of installing my bow eye or any other bolt or screw are to use a non hardening bedding compound, for bolts I drill the hole slightly oversized to allow the compound to fill the void, with screws drill your pilot hole screw in your screw dry remove fill the hole with compound also apply compound to the part to be installed and a little on the screw and install and you should have a little squeeze out. This should prevent any water intrusion and if you should need to make a repair at a latter time it will make it easier to remove the faster.
  5. 2 points
    You should see Graham Shortly. Here is a link to his spot Tracker. http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0rHV7uRsIrA70G3AZ0dslOpt3fiTW79jj
  6. 2 points
    We have the same 2.5 Suzuki on our CS20.3, some days it will start with 1/2 pull, some days 156 pulls are required..... I try to do absolutely the same procedure, but with varying results. I currently have a chicken bone tied to the tiller. After it starts it runs beautifully, just those first few revolutions.
  7. 2 points
    I still have painting to do, but "Mo-Bear" tasted water today:
  8. 1 point
    Out here on the Pacific coast, every day starts out with fog, light and variable winds. By noon it has jumped to 10 to 15 mph steady northwest or westerly, and by 4:00 pm winds are 20 to 30 mph. Almost every day out, I have started out with no reefs and finish up with both reefs tied in. On Wren (the Core Sound Mk 2) I don't look forward to my trip to the foredeck amid big ocean swells to tie in the second reef on the mainsail. I should have added jiffy reefing a long time ago, and now I will finally do it. I've watched the video that @Alan Stewart made of Carlita's jiffy reefing system (around 20 minutes in) but I don't have enough cabin top space to follow them exactly. Here are my ideas: Mizzen * same as in the video Main * instead of bringing the clew downhauls forward and then back down to the cabin, just cleat the clew points to the boom using clam cleats, one on each side of the boom (see sketch below). * I suppose I could add more control lines outboard of the hand rails, but it isn't my first choice. * Tack downhaul for both reef points since I use them every time I am out Since I'm leaving the clew downhaul on the boom, I have to have a system to manage the coils of extra line that are dangling there when I set each reef. I'm thinking about stretching a piece of bicycle inner tube as a rubber band just forward of each cleat and then stuffing the coil underneath after I'm done reefing. Are there any Core Sound boats out there with a similar setup? Are there any other ideas or variations I should consider? Photos and video of my sailing arrangements https://photos.app.goo.gl/C6ZMdpgNgzTRDAzL8 --Frank San Miguel, San Jose, CA
  9. 1 point
    I just received through mail my plans for the Core Sound 15. My Background: I built two small boats as a kid. ==> an 8 foot Glen-L three-point hydroplane (Tiny Titan)... I chose this as a project in 8th grade since my dad had a 5 hp Sea King motor. With some effort (letting go of the tiller and sitting up on the bow deck) I could get it into a plane. To use it in a nearby lake I built a little trailer with a 10 foot 4x4, a 2x4 cross piece, a broom handle “axel”, and a couple wagon wheels. I’d push it down the road a couple blocks and spend a few hours tooling around the lake. ==> an 11 foot Glen-L runabout TNT)... I chose this boat plan since, with saved money from bagging groceries, I had bought a 12 foot aluminum boat (with a 1956 30 hp Johnson motor and a trailer... I sold the boat but kept the motor and trailer.) I finished the TNT and started using it after finishing 10th grade. It did over 30 mph and could pull me waterskiing. (By the way, my son recently claimed my boat after it sat in the back yard for a couple decades. He had built a three cedar strip canoes and applied his skills to rebuilding the TNT. We then worked together on the 1956 Johnson that hadn’t been used since 1996 - but it did serve as storage compartments for chipmunks - and we will try firing it up soon.) Then came college, marriage, grad school, four kids, and a career. I’ve had many and various woodworking projects scattered among the years. No boats, though. After moving back to Wisconsin In 1995, my two sons and I were each paid $100 for playing in the summer city band. My brother-law-law (a boat dealer) called me about boat he took in on a trade... $300... an 18-foot 1978 Lund tri-hull (aqua blue... named Miss Tuhla... quaint) with a 180 hp Mercruiser in perfect running condition. My boys and I bought it. It was a fun family boat until the kids got married... and great for waterskiing. During the empty-nest years, I took the ASA 101 and 103 sailing courses plus an independent three-day cruising course in Bayfield, Wisconsin (Apostle Islands area in Lake Superior.) Fun, but chartering a 35 foot sailboat is just not within prudent budgeting. I retired as 2019 ended. Hmmm... time for something... what to do? I somehow stumbled onto the B&B Yachts website. After brief research, I decided to purchase plans for the BRS17... only $85. While looking over the plans and feeling rather intimidated (not really understanding the B&B building approaches and all the little unknown details) and having then also done more research, I decided to call in an order with Alan at B&B Yachts for a CS15... the entire set of kits: THE WORKS. I must say that Alan’s comprehensive set of 19 YouTube videos on building the CS15 is what gave me the confidence to make the full investment. I chose the kit route to have a finished project by late summer or fall (hopefully... my wife will want the garage back.) I think that the kit approach will provide me sufficient challenge. My CS15 kits are being assembled in April 2020... I’m looking forward to making the trip to B&B Yachts to bring “THE WORKS” kit home... I am ready for the boatbuilding project to begin. I decided that the speedier “end result” of a working sailboat, that I could call my own and enjoy with my family, was more important than taking on the laying out/cutting/fashioning of all the pieces... along with the fact that making the masts/rigging/etc. was beyond what I thought I wanted take on. So, from me to B&B Yachts... a big thanks for making this project available and (likely) making it possible for me to succeed.
  10. 1 point
    I have raised an lowered my masts on the boat. I had the entire rig off the masts, which made it easy. I would only want to do it on lfat water, but that was a desirable feature as there is a place I launch with a bridge. The tabernacles are pretty handy.
  11. 1 point
    Yes, Mike. Our city’s waste management contractor has a truck scale that we can use when traffic is sparse. There is a large digital sign on the side of the scale office that constantly shows the weight. I’ve weighed [separately] the trailer and trailer with boat [configured for cruising] — first, the trailer axle only, then lowering the tongue wheel (to the scale) and jacking the hitch off the ball to get total weight, the difference being the weight carried at the tow bar (tongue weight). I just photo the four weights since I don’t need officially “certified” tickets. There’s no charge if you don’t need a ticket. They claim accuracy of + or - 20 lbs. If you know (or with an educated guess) the “unsprung” weight of the trailer (i.e., axle, suspension, wheels) and positions on the trailer of the boat and axle — you can calculate the centers of gravity (separately, boat and trailer).
  12. 1 point
    As you know, there are some excellent examples of CS20.3 along the Upper Atlantic coast should you want to see a boat up close.
  13. 1 point
    Greetings all. The selling of Chessie is now under contract. Today I'm preparing her for delivery sometime this month -- removing personal items. However, she will be transferred intact with all safety and cruising equipment to an experienced sailor. I'm sure she'll be skifully sailed and well cared for. Building Chessie was as much a pleasure as sailing and cruising with her. For others who may be (or may consider) building a Core Sound 20 Mark III -- I'm attaching here her Owner's Manual (in three parts to keep file size reasonable) and Equipment List. My next project is a sailing Spindrift 10 (my boat #11). I just might have it ready for this year's MessAbout, if there is one. Prt one OWNER's MANUAL, pgs 1-12.pdf Prt two OWNER's MANUAL, pgs 13-24.pdf Prt three OWNER's MANUAL, pgs 25-35.pdf Equipment List.pdf
  14. 1 point
    I built sn 2 (Southern Express) and live/sail on the Gulf of Mexico, you are more than welcome to come sail with us. We have had 4- 5 adults in the cockpit on a rare occasion, it will do it. We can rig in 10 minutes without much rush, it is reasonably dry, we have taken green water over the bow but that is as rare as us having 4-5 adults aboard. It is a delight to sail!
  15. 1 point
    I found another good video of Blue Duck: 20200618_174534.mp4
  16. 1 point
    A sailing group called the OBX130 is organizing a sailing trip starting from Bath, NC June 14-20. This trip is ideal for Core Sound boats. Members here might be interested, come join me! So far there are two boats committed to the adventure; myself and the organizer. There are no signups, no fees, and feel free to do all or just part of the trip. "The Inner Banks 130 Proposed route for June 14 - 20 adventure. Boats will launch at Potter's Marina, Bath, NC and will overnight at a nearby anchorage. Monday morning we will hoist the sails and depart for Washington. Washington has a free City dock available, a nice anchorage and a beautiful waterfront park. For those brave enough, you can visit Bill's Hot Dogs for a special experience. Tuesday, we will sail east to the town of Bath with a stop at Goose Creek State Park. Bath has a free State dock and several anchorages. Bath is a beautiful little town with plenty of history and room to move around without bumping into people. Wednesday will be our longest day covering about 40 miles, ending with our anchorage in South River. South River is full of nature and we will also visit the remnants of an abandoned village and cemetery. Thursday will be spent exploring South River and sailing to Oriental where we will overnight in Greens Creek. Friday, we will return to an anchorage near Potter's." If you are interested search out the Facebook group "OBX130", or if you don't have a Facebook account, just let me know in this thread and I will take it from there. This a very informal and flexible trip/adventure. If you want to meet us at a particular village and/or anchorage, that is fine.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I finished this paint job today. You need to know up front that I was not as particular with this job as I have been with my boats. The previous job was sloppy— there was a lot of “good enough” in it. And I don’t know that I will ever use Rustoleum Marine Topside paint on mine. Don had three cans of it. So if it doesn’t concern him, it shouldn’t concern me. That paint, by the way, is simply the standard Rustoleum minus the rust inhibitor. It is high gloss, and is easy to work with. It is the fact that it will be as soft as butter that I won’t use it. I am interested to see how the green off-brand polyurethane works out, especially as relates to abrasion. I think the problems I had with it in the interior were because I was thrifty with my addition of Penetrol. Penetrol and the foal rollers were the real winners in this trial. What got me started on these rollers was this video. They do not tip off, they only roll. This winter, I will repaint the Epifanes yellow on Local Honey. So this little green boat was in preparation of that.
  19. 1 point
    Need to shut down the store for a few weeks starting July 8th. Need to have a little work done and my doctor has STRESSED light duty for 6 weeks! No exceptions. Assuming no surprises I should be able to sit in my office chair, pack boxes, print labels after a couple of weeks. Maybe less. My wonderful wife is going to do the heavy lifting for me. So we will be opening back up as soon as we can. Might be a bit slower than normal shipping though.
  20. 1 point
    Scott, Yes, same as usual.
  21. 1 point
    That is exactly what I did. I didn't dream it up, I believe Graham did. It might have actually been in the plans. I put holes through the quarter knees for the traveller as well.
  22. 1 point
    I bought a reposessed PWC trailer for $300. It’s perfect for an 8-10’ boat. Check Craigslist. Here it is with a 10’ skiff on it.
  23. 1 point
    I just drilled a hole through the bow just below the breast plate and epoxied it like the rest of the boat. No hardware at all.
  24. 1 point
    With your stem taped inside and outside you don't need anymore glass tape there. Glassing the top of the backing block on the other hand provides additional compressive strength and ensures water resistance. Lapping that glass onto the ply of the hull helps distribute the stress load. Moisture ingress is a potential problem here. Drilling oversize holes and making epoxy bushings before putting the eye in is an excellent solution. PeterP
  25. 1 point
    That’s a real bright idea; intended pun!
  26. 1 point
    @Hirilonde— I have several Redtree and Corona brushes. But this “Amber Fong” that I bought at my local Benjamin and Moore paint store is becoming my favorite. (See opening photo.) Best of all, it costs about a third as much as the badger hair brushes. If this boat had a lapstraked hull, I’d have to use a brush. These foam rollers are wonderful. (Opening photo)
  27. 1 point
    What a joy to be able to sail together. Thanks for sharing the photos and video.
  28. 1 point
  29. 1 point
    I have found that you need a really soft, fine bristle brush for tipping as the paints are much thinner than house paints and such. The obsessive painter will spend a lot and get badger hair. For my Lapwing it wasn't an issue for me. As the boat is ship lap planked in the classic style, semi-gloss and a few brush line was not an issue, but a goal. For all of B&B's other designs this cheapskate would buy badger hair. I have no desire to buy painting equipment, learn a new skill and deal with the health hazards of spraying.
  30. 1 point
    Nicely taken picture showing pretty design lines. I’m using similar paint scheme. Wishing you full and steady breezes.
  31. 1 point
    Yeah me to but my wife and i are thinking very hard about buying a live aboard sail boat in the UK. I see the Med in my future so it is not all bad
  32. 1 point
    Have a wonderful trip. It would be great if you can post a trip report and let us know how it went. You were right the paint did dry.
  33. 1 point
    It’s all a matter of personal taste, Ben. Here’s an interesting two-tone paint job a friend of mine did. The gunwales, quarter knees, and breasthook are all painted, btw.
  34. 1 point
    Well, I DO wipe it off first! I wonder if my hot breath could ignite it?
  35. 1 point
    Be careful Dave...unless you secretly want to build an OB26.
  36. 1 point
    I would add a step between 2 and 3 above. 2b. flush out with alcohol - this will absorb any moisture and clean out any oils and contaminants. 5. Screws and cured epoxy do not add strength to each other. That does not mean don't use them. Some times you need a clamping force in a place you cannot get a clamp. If I use a screw as part of installation I have no issue leaving them in provided I can bung them or fill in over them and then seal. Or just pull them after and fill the divet.
  37. 1 point
    I would 1. Clean the joint with a vibrating saw, thinnest blade, to get what ever “nonboat “ stuff in the open joint out 2. Blow out the stuff with high pressure air hose (dry air) 3. Inject it with thin epoxy, let it soak a few minutes then inject some slightly thickened epoxy 4. Clamp it with lots of clamps, without a lot of pressure, don’t want to squeeze the epoxy out. Just eliminate any voids. 5. I think I wouldn’t use screws, just my preference. it’s fixed....
  38. 1 point
    Very pretty! My wife has been saying that she doesn't want to go sailing any more. But that she might approve of us having a power boat. I just might have to work on her to build an OB 20. I will use your pictures as part of my sales pitch.
  39. 1 point
    Took it out for a sail and (unintentional) capsize test. Oops. Lesson learned, I need a bailer bucket. 8 knots, gusting the gust got me, I guess. What a blast. Once I dragged it to shore I walked it about a half mile to the landing.
  40. 1 point
    You are correct the sprint is low and not long enough to flatten the sail as needed. Especially under full main. I agreed the keel coming loose would be a bad thing.
  41. 1 point
    Dear Mr. Chair: If causing an unfair curve is a concern, you can carve a little curve into the butt block. But I think that you will find that less curve is needed than you might think. As far as clamping, consider lashing, cable ties, and/or screws. If you use epoxy glue, you don't need a tightly clamped joint, as the glue will fill the gaps. Remember to put some plastic sheet (e.g. plastic bag) between the stringer and the skin to avoid gluing them together. Have fun!
  42. 1 point
    Looks like it could be repaired with a butt block. The two butt blocks shown were used in the original construction in lieu of scarf joints. They are the same scantlings as the stringers they are joining.
  43. 1 point
    Well if it works, yes! Congrats.
  44. 1 point
    Excellent idea, Thrillsbe. Thanks. Great looking boat. I’ve seen it in a good number of videos and photos.
  45. 1 point
    Dave has the most useful location for a wind indicator. I now use the mast main head which is the most accurate and best. I needed racing help on lakes when first starting sailing and made a small one mounted on the bow. Not the most accurate wind direction but better than yours and allowed great vision which showed wind changes well and was in the line of sight without looking at the sun or causing neck pain.
  46. 1 point
    (Home) Ok, all you finely cut pieces and parts. Ya’ll wanna get into that nice garage space (vacated for a while by my wife’s car)... and PULL YOURSELVES TOGETHER?
  47. 1 point
    Can’t think of a better way to be social distancing. Enjoy!
  48. 1 point
    You don't have to convince anyone here that you are off to a great retirement. Have fun.
  49. 1 point
    Minor update... I've been super busy moving cities and changing jobs so no boating over the winter, but I did get a tiny spot in Wooden Boat Magazine!
  50. 1 point
    treywil I too am from Chesapeake. Would love to stop by meet you and check out your build.

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