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Showing content with the highest reputation since 03/01/2020 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    I think I have found a novel way to self quarantine oneself.......mention to your friends that you are doing some sanding and getting ready to lay fiberglass. All the sidewalk engineers have disappeared😃
  2. 3 points
    Mini 6.5s are required to paint their rudders and canting keel bright orange for easy spotting when capsized. Something to consider if you are sailing off shore or in races like the Everglades Challenge.
  3. 3 points
    The Coast Guard has suspended their search for SailorMan, Jim Slauson. Even as the other participants celebrate their completion of the course it is impossible to forget this one that did not make it. Congratulations to the finishers and God Bless Jim Slauson and his family. Safety was one of the features of BandB boats that appealed to me. I think it is one of their strong suites. The capsize camps and development of mast head floats have demonstrated a continued commitment to safety at sea. However no matter how safe your vessel there is going to be a certain amount of risk involved. The skill and decisions of the crew have a huge impact on vessel safety, but the power of the sea can overwhelm even the wisest and most skilled mariner and founder the best boat. I have for the last few years carried a PLB in the center pocket of my PFD. To activate it I would have to remove it from the pocket, deploy the antenna and depress the proper button. There is a power and a test button of similar size located close together. I can accomplish this pretty easily on dry land, when I am well rested, during daylight hours so I can review the instructions on the back. However..... There is beauty and a unique satisfaction in going to sea in a boat you have made. Let us be as safe as we can and look after each other and cherish those wonderful hours on the water.
  4. 3 points
    I captured this photo from the Watertribes Facebook page. That is Alan dragging Southern Skimmer out from Chokoloskee as Dawn Patrol is coming in. Must be some wind out there judging by the reefs set in the sails.
  5. 2 points
  6. 2 points
    I didn't think "missing centerboard" either and I still don't. And it wouldn't make sense either as the up-haul line AND the pivot bolt would both have to be cut/removed for the board to be missing else we would see the board dangling by a line. In the picture of the boat after it capsized the view of the trunk I see as consistent with the board just being completely retracted. Even if there was a bumper installed at the top of the trunk I wouldn't really expect to see any of the board except maybe a glimpse of the very fwd part which I think i see. It's certainly a wake-up call to anyone who takes their boat out alone.
  7. 2 points
    Like everyone else, I've read the accounts and looked over the CG photos with a really awful pit in my stomach. I am really sorry for Jim under any scenario I can dream up to explain what went wrong. The mind begs to understand what happened, and I am completely embarrassed i hadn't noticed that the CB appears to be missing, and not just retracted. Granted, it's hard to imagine how the CB could drop out, but on my boat, at least, even without the bumper, the forward-most leading edge would still be visible from almost any angle with the board completely retracted - it's recessed maybe 3/4" from the bottom. Trouble with his CB might explain how he got so far downwind and off course, and perhaps suggests a way to explain his going overboard. Graham and Alan, I cannot imagine how hard this must be on you both. We love the boats you create - they're sound, seaworthy craft that we're proud to own and sail. Keep up the great work.
  8. 2 points
  9. 2 points
    You cannot go wrong if you follow the waterline method that Alan illustrated for putting on the WL and boot top. It is one of the most critical cosmetic components you will add to the boat, get it wrong and the boat will look sad. The most common mistake that I see is that the boot top is measured up the slope of the hull instead of vertical. On boats that have flare forward at the wl or have a counter stern, it causes the boot top to look narrower at the ends giving the boat a frown rather than a big smile that says "look at me". If you do not get the boot top right, leave it off. On high sided boats it will make the boat look longer and sleeker. The proportions of the boot top have to be just right and are different for each type of boat and freeboard height. We give the dimensions on our boats as to where it should be. As Steve said do not put it too low . Small boats are almost never in perfect trim and the water is rarely flat. Small ripples will make the water appear higher on the boat than it is. If you put it exactly on the DWL, part of it will usually be underwater. I prefer the scum line to be on the bottom. I prefer to put the waterline on with the boat upright as there is always some sag or catenary in the string or tape and it could look hogged if it is put on upside down. A tiny bit of rocker in the WL always enhances any boat. I long ago gave up on the string method because you have to do the job twice and best way to put the tape on fair is to pull the tape out a long way as you lay the tape on the hull, why not use the straight edge as a guide? As the illustration shows, put on the stern straight edge on first because you can measure it accurately at both chines to make it truly level to the boat athwartships. Remember to position the straight edge down by the width of the tape. Then position the forward straight edge at the right height forward and make sure that it is in plane with the aft one. It makes sense to do the boot top right after you mark the WL because you have the setup and it will be more accurate than trying to re setup later on. 1" masking tape works great and it is easier to apply if you have help because the tape will slide down especially forward and you do not want that to happen. I put a step ladder or sawhorse etc to anchor the aft end of the tape positioned a foot or two beyond the stern so that I will have enough length as I pull the tape in to the stern. I want the tape pulled out for the whole length of the boat parallel to the boats CL with the lower edge kissing both straight edges and held vertical. I do the bow first and holding the roll out a couple of feet forward of the forward straight edge, start moving the tape inwards with the bottom kissing the straight edge while trying to keep some tension to reduce sag. As soon as tape touches the hull have your helper touch the top edge of the tape and continue touching the as you move inboard. When you go around the chine forward there will be a bridge where the tape will hit the bottom 6" to a foot forward of the chine, this is normal, keep going until you reach the bow. If it looks good you can pat the tape on to the hull pushing the bridge horizontal to keep it fair. While you are concentrating on three things at once it is easy to get the bow wrong by rotating the tape on the vertical axis causing the tape not to be straight. Just pull the tape back out for as far as you need and fix that section. Only after you are happy with the line should you pat the tape down to the hull. Repeat for the stern half and do the other side. If you are going for the boot top follow the directions for setting up the short angled straight edges. Taping the boot top is identical to the Wl with one exception. For the WL you want the top edge of the tape to touch the hull first. On the boot top you want the bottom edge of the tape the touch the hull first. This can be accomplished by holding the tape roll horizontally and rotate it as you move it along the straight edge so that it touches the hull with the bottom edge. This sounds more complicated than it is. While a laser is a valid method and appeals to the gearhead, you still have to put on the tape smoothly and when you factor in where to remount the laser in space to get the right curve to the boot top and get it exactly right again for the other side of the boat is harder or less accurate where as the sloped straightedge method is mathematically correct. Do not forget to really press down the tape edge that meets the paint or the paint will bleed under the tape messing up your beautiful work. I usually run the blade of a putty knife along the paint edge of the tape and run my thumb nail into any tape joins that will make a tiny bridge. Or you can spring for 3M's fine line tape.
  10. 2 points
    Here is a test slide Graham just made. Destructive testing to follow.
  11. 2 points
    Great of you to post. I agree the 17 (mine is a I, not a III) is a terrific boat, but one that can absorb as much knowledge as one can muster. I've only had one "scary" jibe. And why was that one a slam instead of a flop? Dunno. Still learning after 3 yrs. (See previous.....)
  12. 2 points
    Regarding the knee separating from the transom. I had an old Thompson 15 lapstrake outboard with a 30 hp motor that had the same condition. That knee was only held by screws, no epoxy. I relocated the failing screw into good wood, used thickened epoxy in the joint, and everything was still holding together when I sold the boat 5 years later. My inclination would be do a similar fix on your boat. Run the saw blade through only where the joint has separated to clean up the surfaces. Then shim/epoxy, or just epoxy, and get a good screw in place. I would leave the rest of the knee untouched because it is holding.
  13. 2 points
    The reason I ask these questions isn't because I need, or necessarily even want an answer. They are questions I ask of myself to help in making such decisions. My only recommendation now that you have answered is to use your answer to help you come to a conclusion. If a balanced sailing rig is secondary, and it was for me, I still could not live with anything except the best available rig. No matter how seldom I sail, it must be well, or my rendition of well, what ever that is. You have to weigh your requirements against the resources available and the costs of them. Now that I have completely confused you, good luck deciding 😉
  14. 1 point
    Just published this video in memory of Sailorman aka Jim Slauson who sadly was lost this year during the EC. If you are not aware, please read this article.
  15. 1 point
    Sometimes, shooting a screw through your hull is the only way to go. I especially love it when I’m cutting that hole in for the Anderson bailer. When asked why I did it, I told people it was to let the water out!
  16. 1 point
    Put another way, if you glass the outside with cloth then you dont need tape on the chine. The cloth does the job. The keel needs 2 layers so overlapping the cloth does the job. Any stainless piano hinge will do the job. Short screws to attach. You might have to grind the tips off to keep them poking through or use longer screws and... drill, screw, remove screws, cut and gring them down, reinstall. Ive been wanting to try those rubber hatch closures lately. Or a hasp and staple latch. Maybe like this. https://images.app.goo.gl/yHu2tkTiAtrBq9Ny6
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    Thanks for the pics. Looking good from here. On the chine joint we only specify a single layer of 10oz tape because the fiberglass reinforcement only needs to be as strong as the thickness of plywood it's reinforcing. So in the case of the chine joint a single layer is sufficient because the side panel is only 6mm plywood. In the case of the keel joint, we are joining two layers of 12mm plywood so we use 2 layers of 10oz tape across the joint due to the added strength needed to match the strength of the plywood. On the outside of the boat the required glass is the same as the inside so when you sheath the exterior in 10oz glass all that is required is a single layer over the chine (don't forget to make it smooth and rounded for the glass to wrap the corner well). When you get to the keel line, overlap the keel by about 1 1/2" this way when you glass the other side and do the same overlap of the keel you now have the required 2 layers of glass on the exterior of the keel joint.
  19. 1 point
    Kinda interfere with your trailer keel rollers, though.
  20. 1 point
    This discussion has me thinking that I want to make my stopper block lower in the box. This would cause the c/b to always poke out of the slot a couple of inches— enough, maybe, to grab onto it if I were to turn turtle.
  21. 1 point
    Thanks everyone for your helpful suggestions on how best to strike a waterline on my hull. I think I will go with the B and B tape method. I plan to flip my boat right side up and mark the waterline then flip it back upside down and paint the bottom. Hopefully this method will give me the best looking waterline possible.
  22. 1 point
    I used the B&B technique and it worked very well. The natural sag of the tape works to your benefit. The B&B plans should have drawings and instructions how to do this. It is a little confusing reading about it, but easy to do once you get started.
  23. 1 point
    The masking tape method looks interesting and I might give it a try sometime. I marked the waterline on a friend’s CS 17 using a laser level and it worked out well. The boat was blocked fore and aft so that the level registered to the design waterline marks on the bow and stern as taken from the plans. Then the boat was leveled side to side. The laser line was traced onto the boat. Then the laser level was raised 2.5 inches and the upper line was traced. The “as painted” line was wider at the transom and noticeably wider at the bow due to the slant of of the hull at those points. If you try this method it is important to trace the laser line onto the hull continuously or with a mark every two inches or less. Otherwise connecting the dots will not give a true curve. And I recommend a self leveling laser (Bosch has a good one for a reasonable price). The laser has a pendulum to compensate if it is set on an uneven surface. As for waterlines in general. It is standard practice to mark the waterline and bootstripe higher than the actual waterline so the boat looks like it is floating high in the water. And, since the waterline stripe will naturally appear to rise toward the bow and stern (being farther from the eye) some builders actually paint the line closer to the water at the end points so it appears flat to the water. An example of this is building a strip canoe, in which the strips are bent downward slightly toward the ends so the canoe doesn’t look too “smiley” when viewed on the water. That is my 2 cents. I did not put a waterline stripe on my boat. But every time I take the boat out of the industrial Menominee River I have to wash a waterline stripe off of the boat.
  24. 1 point
    Graham and Alan. Based on your surprise at my breaking of slugs suggests to me you have insufficient experience for destruction testing of sail slides. Perhaps you should send samples to me, a professional destroyer of slides, for a full range of trials. Bones
  25. 1 point
    This is going to be hard. I can't cut all these boards out! Cutting boards is fun! I can't lash this thing together! Lashing is a blast! How am I going to cover this? Skinning is a blast! How am I ever going to paint this? Painting it the best! This was a great way to spend a cold winter. I have always wanted to do this and the forum, especially Jeff Kudzu and Hirilonde made it easy. The project had creativity and allowed for changes. Following the book, videos, and forum it came together better than I had expected. I took it out today and it was amazing! To sit in a craft I made in the middle of a lake on a quiet March day was breathtaking. From start to end it was a fun journey. My thanks to the forum for ideas and insight. Thank you and happy paddling!
  26. 1 point
    Soon! It’s about the only thing I’ll be able to do. I’m married to a Quarantine Nazi.
  27. 1 point
    Hirilonde had it right.
  28. 1 point
    Pete has designed the neatest boarding ladder on his CS20.3 Chessie. It is compact, doesn’t look like a jungle-gym and comparatively easy to build, most importantly easy to use. I R&Ded at the Messabout but with Mathew Flinders my CS20.3 is enjoying a vacation.
  29. 1 point
    Looks like a good solution Graham. Not everyone will need this but those of us crazy enough to want to take our boats out while quadruple reefed and gybe in 25 knots might!
  30. 1 point
    The boat was upright when the CG found it. Rotor wash from the helicopter capsized it.
  31. 1 point
    Quite a few midnight toasts were made and tears shed for him around the late nighter table last night. We didnt know him well but he was still one of our own. Everyone knows the risks but no one expects to not go home.
  32. 1 point
    Well said, Joe. RIP, Sailorman.
  33. 1 point
    Now you can have more pleasant dreams.
  34. 1 point
  35. 1 point
    Camping has only 1 season. January through December. Not waiting required. When people asked why I would go backpacking in the White Mountains in winter I told them, no bugs. Boating on the other hand has a season. Solid water is hard on boats.
  36. 1 point
    The Watertribe tracker has been down for awhile. There is an alternative site Raceowl that shows Alan and Paul crossing Florida Bay. Greybeard in the bright yellow CS17mk3 has been at Cape Sable for awhile. I can not find a position for Dawn Patrol. What has happened to Sailorman is a bit of mystery. He seemed to be drifting for several hours and now his tracking device has not updated for 25 hours. I believe the CG was called and initiated a search but I do not know the status. I hope everyone is safe out there.
  37. 1 point
    Well, I did the dirty deed. I think it came out well. Time tell me how well this repair performs. If it fails, I will do the more radical repair. Now it’s on to varnishing
  38. 1 point
  39. 1 point
    Yes, hopefully Sailorman is okay!
  40. 1 point
    Alan did do well cutting behind Cape Romano. It looks like he has almost made it up Indian Key Pass. Dawn Patrol is just approaching the Pass and I believe the tide has begun to Ebb.
  41. 1 point
    I'd go with Reacher's idea, and I think it's what Ken had in mind, too. Clean out the separated gap a kerf-width, fill with really thick epoxy and a shim if needed, and install a fresh screw. Your transom, knee and motor plate look quite strong.
  42. 1 point
    Don, I hate that you're the only one commenting on your post. I'll offer a suggestion that I haven't actually tried in the real world so take it with a grain of salt. Maybe you could make a saw cut between the knee and the transom (preferably not a powered saw) to cut out the gap to a uniform thickness. Then you could insert a shim of the same thickness as the saw kerf. This would still leave a joint that connected the end-grain of the knee to the long-grain of the transom, so the weak end-grain joint could be reinforced by a glass patch on the surfaces of the parts (maybe you could wrap one layer of glass around the knee to stabilize the opposing surfaces of the joint). If I haven't expressed myself well I can try to sketch the idea.
  43. 1 point
    From all of my years observing other boats, and especially where they paint the waterline, I have concluded that a vast majority put it too low. If the bottom is anti-fouling, I observe almost everyone paints it too low. I would rather see some bottom paint, than slime on the topside paint. Your situation is cosmetic. I still like it higher than most. It never seems to look poorly. You might find in the end that you actually like your decision. Getting closer.
  44. 1 point
    Balvar: If you want a kayak, definitely consider one of Jeff's skin-on-frame designs, but, like Dave says, think about plywood if you want a Jon boat. Try the link below for a whole bunch of easy-to-build plywood designs by Jim Michalak. For a jon boat, check out "Pole Punt" under the "Paddleboats" category. But while your at it, look through all the designs. You might find something else that meets your needs or scratches an itch that you didn't know you had. Have fun, Andy https://www.duckworks.com/jim-michalak-s/122.htm
  45. 1 point
    Many thanks for the link to the video. We are nearing that point, and a video is worth 1000 words. I think we will glass the deck before tackling the hull, to get the glassing mojo warmed up. Currently finishing making drawers and some storage ideas for the laserett, and the ever glamorous rebuilding the head pump. Graham and I discussed an end plate for the rudder so I layed up a 1 inch thick fiberglass foot for the rudder with the intent controlling the hi an lo pressure water flow, like the current trend of winglets on airplanes. Cabin top is nearing complete, insulated deck and cabin “should “ help with condensation. I keep delaying applying primer in the cabin, want to make durn sure all my ducks are in order before I start that phase.
  46. 1 point
    Time flies gentlemen. Here is Teddy, the cute kid sailing the Spindrift 11N in the link in my signature, who turns 18 next week, this past August sailing Skeena.
  47. 1 point
    Well, the cabin is coming together, the insulation is in place an looking good. I am in a quandary on the hatch on the cabin top, originally I wanted a butterfly hatch simulated, I mean it would look like a butterfly hatch when closed and open similarly to a regular hatch, but after visualizing the cabin I am leaning towards a “store bought “ hatch. One of the funs in boat building is you have choices! My remedial hatch frame is completed, and the one I built backwards sure looks good, other than being...... well who hasn’t built 2 lefts an no rights. Glassed the rudders ( a big un an a little un). The core is Airex PXC is super strong, light, rigid, waterproof, chemical proof, nuclear weapon resistant and the absolute work of the devil! I sanded the mill marks and rounded some areas....... I will be scratching for a week! Never imagined it was that nasty to work with.
  48. 1 point
    You will need two long battens struck horizontally across the bow and transom at the height of the water level. They should be long enough so that line pulled across the top of them and parallel to the boat centre line will touch the extreme width of the hull. Mark the three points: where the string touches the hull and the two points on the battens. With two people - pull masking tape across the sticks and watch it pull a perfect line on your boat. With one person - I stick the tape at the mid point on the hull an pull one way and then go back and pull the other half. Take note that the upper edge of the tape will be the bottom of your bootstripe. Graham likes his bootstripe to have an upward tick. On the 17' the stripe goes 2.75" -1.5"- 2" bow mid stern. The 28' goes 6" -3" -4". The smiley effect helps cover up out of trim flotation. Figure out your stripe ratios. For example let's go with 5"- 3" -4". Meaning that the stripe will be 5" wide at the bow, 3" amidship and 4" at the stern. What you need to do now is to rig up two ramps -one in the bow one in the stern. In the bow fasten the inboard end of the ramp 5" up from the horizontal batten at the centerline. The other end will slope down so that at the mark you made earlier it is 3" above horizontal. Do the other ramp going from 4" to 3". Now pull the tape across, - it should touch the hull 3" above your lower tape at midpoint -stick it to the hull and walk the ends up the ramps. Pay attention and go slow because now you will be pulling a curve so the tape needs to be tweaked up in a gentle arc rather than a straight line. Let your eye be the judge - as always. The actual positioning of the boostripe is an individual choice. Should the waterline go through the middle of the stripe, should it be just above,a bit proud of it in anticipation of heavy crew? So many choices, so many opinions. Good luck with it. PeterP
  49. 1 point
    Great illustrations. I remember Graham saying that the boat doesn't even need to be level. Set the aft straight edge so that it is correct at each transom corner---even with the boat not level. Then set the front straight edge parallel with the aft one. You can get back a little way from straight ahead of the bow strait edge and "eyeball" it to parallel the aft one.
  50. 1 point
    Graham (or Alan) sent me the following four diagrahams. I'm building a Cs20.3 -- so I assume they apply to the 20 footer and not the Cs17. But I'm not sure. Maybe these will help.

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