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Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/2019 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    20190822_185801.mp4 20190822_185908.mp4 Okay, the trip begins. I'm in Spring Lake, Michigan, near my daughter's. Stayed out on the boat two nights, once in a corner of the lake and once under the bridge and up the bayou. Couldn't resist sailing under the bridge when I had a fair wind.... 20190822_185801.mp4 20190822_185908.mp4
  2. 2 points
    I hadn't realized what a challenge spaghetti lines in the cockpit were til I started practicing donuts (sailing tight circles around a buoy to improve boat handling skills. Get so you can do tight circles in 15 kts of wind to build your confidence. Still working on it.) I kept getting strangled, or tripped, or glasses torn off by spare lines as I ducked under to grab the far rail. I tried velcro tabs, but switched to this - a couple of washers with a stand-off between. Works better than the velcro for me, but still not completely satisfied. Here's how I'm locking the cabin - I've sleeved the thru-hole with some SS tubing to make it a bit more durable. I really like trailering with the sprits atop the masts - it's quicker to rig and the straps tighten up the masts while we're on the road. As nice as Graham's were, the layout looked like too much work. Mine look like pook, but they work ok and were simpler to make. So, most of you will be horrified by my anchor roller, but I like it. I think it weighs something close to 2 lbs, but that's a mere fraction of the weight of 15' of chain in the anchor locker. It keeps the anchor solidly fixed in place, and I can launch it from the cockpit. I keep it tethered like this underway and trailering. And I've just run a line back to the cockpit that I can use to pop off the tether. I'll 'arm' it before coming in to anchor and cleat the rode off at, say, 50'. Haven't actually used this yet, but from the cockpit I'll be able to ease up to the anchorage and let it go. Peg and I were recently in the San Juans. It was beautiful (altho the arrangement above would have been helpful). But 10' tidal differences are common here. This lagoon actually dried out to the rock you see on the right. We moved the boat before that, but I'd beached Deluge at high tide in the new spot in a direct on-shore 15 kt breeze, and really hadn't sorted out in my head how you do clothesline anchoring. In any case, I was going to need Peg to help me anchor, and nor could I figure out how to get off the beach with her in the boat. Here's the result - water wasn't high enough to re-launch til 5pm the next day. (We had a Great time.) I did eventually get something worked out: But here's how I plan to do it from now on. This may be risky, but seems to me the risk is fairly small for over nights - to use a quick link in place of the standard horseshoe shackle. With it, I can quickly change the configuration between shackling the rode directly to the chain (for regular anchoring), and running the rode thru the link (for clothesline). Regular anchoring: and for clothesline anchoring:
  3. 2 points
    Here's some decidedly vague info that may be a bit helpful. I obtained a masthead float from Alan and Graham last winter for my CS 17 MkI. I was going to get a kit, but they had one made up and basically sold it at cost (thanks!). I put it on the mizzen, even though they advised putting it on the main, since if I had put the extension tube on the main the outfit would no longer fit under my trailer cover. The recommendation to use the main was in order to get the greatest righting moment. I had to sacrifice about a foot of moment, I suppose, by moving to the mizzen. In any event, I do notice a slight added windage when stepping the mizzen. How much is very difficult to quantify. A "slight extra push"? Maybe? So I assume there is a corresponding *slight* decrease in windward performance, but I certainly have not noticed anything, and I have not noticed any visible signs like added mast bend. I take the float on and off each launching. It just takes a minute. It turns out the hardware store had a car air filter wing nut with a quarter-inch threaded bolt that fits perfectly, so I don't need to install a screw to hold it on, just twirl in the wing nut. The float has a name: Moby Turtle. I've also been very careful to make sure my masts are sealed. When I did capsize and turtle last year, one filled and one didn't. The one that filled had a 1/8" hole at the top that I had drilled and abandoned. That's apparently all it took to fill. So, having capsized and turtled and not wanting to repeat, I certainly feel safer with Moby T at the masthead, and it's worth the peace of mind for the negligible loss, if any, in performance and the added minute or less of setup time. Obviously the float is not the only option, given some of the other devices folks have found, but it is easy to use, out of the way, and does not seem to interfere with getting anywhere. Here's Moby Turtle at the mizzenhead. (Plus I love this picture.)
  4. 2 points
    As Deluge emerges from newborn to toddler-dom, it seems like time to update things a bit, with items that I haven't seen elsewhere but that seem to be working for me. She'd been in the water less than a dozen times when the CB pendant broke; an epoxy spur I'd left in the pendant path had shredded the line. I replaced it with one made of dynema after cleaning things up. I had to splice it in place, but fortunately it's really easy to splice the stuff. The challenge is the stopper knot - it's so slippery it's likely to slip off the end. The fibers, it turns out, are quick to absorb epoxy, so the solution is pretty simple. This is just an overhand knot I'd filled with epoxy inside a piece of PVC pipe. This didn't fit, so, gulp, I just ground it down till it did. I'm convinced it's plenty strong enough for the job. In fact, I don't bother with the fancy knot they tie on the internet for soft shackles, I just do this: The little rigging balls make nice 'stopper knots' and it's easier to make your shackle exactly the length you want it to be. I keep adding epoxy to the fur until it can't take any more, and I tie rigging twine at the neck to keep the epoxy from wicking down below the ball. It wasn't long after launch that I'd bashed my transom with the rudder, since I had no rudder stops. I just made a very simple set with starboard and they've worked well. These, or something like them, are now probably on the drawings: I've been impressed by how much the trailer and boat bounce around on Seattle's roads (they're often in terrible shape), and realized that the CB is bouncing around even more, secured only by the pendant (the CB slot doesn't align with my trailer bunks). So I put in a pedestal, capped with starboard, to keep the board from bouncing around when trailering. Graham used a fixed bolt to secure his main mast, and I got a couple of the one-legged nuts he uses for it, but it turned out to be easier for me to bolt the mast from the front. I can manage everything from the foredeck, and for whatever reason, it was easier for me to build. The T bolt was my first shot at silver solder - a mysterious alchemy that had long intimidated me. It was pretty much like regular soldering only higher heat. This is the aluminum receptacle - it's just tapped for the 5/16" bolt, and fixed in place with a couple of screws.
  5. 2 points
    I've been thinking a lot about everyone in NC and along the southeastern coast. I've been through my share of ice storms and big northern snow storms and even the famous Blizzard of '77 while growing up in Buffalo, NY, but I can't imagine that kind of uncertainty and damage that a hurricane brings. Please stay safe. Meanwhile, my punch list is getting shorter. I admit I sailed with my forward hatch held down by gravity. I stole Graham's clever idea and now she closes nice with a gasket. I used some cherry I had around for the gussets and an old maple 1 1/4" closet rod for the knobs and threaded receiver . I have a bit of sanding but I'm happy with the process. I used a Fostner bit to drill a hole hole big enough to nest the bolt head (knob piece) and the nut (part attached to hatch). I glued in the bolt and the nut with thickened epoxy. They weren't perfectly true to the center so I chucked the knobs in my drill press and used a rasp to get them nice and true and followed with sandpaper. A poor substitute for a lathe, but it worked well. I used a fostner bit to remove the paint off the inside of the hatch to glue in the receiver. Tonight I'll remove, sand and varnish. I have a night time X-country race, but I may get sailing tomorrow or Sunday. All in all it was a fun little project. My goal was to make sure the whole mess didn't extend below the hatch frame. My next step is to make a screen to Velcro to keep the critters out.
  6. 2 points
    My Ravenswood has been completed. My daughter finished hers, needs the final painting to look like an Orca and lines attached. No leaks!
  7. 2 points
    I'm writing this sitting on my CS17 - the original - anchored out in a protected bight in Connecticut near Norfolk. I want to echo a lot of what Steve said. I was drawn to b&b because of the the Everglades performance. I seriously considered another small cruiser, but when I read a user report that it didn't do so well upwind, ixnay. Plus its tabernacle was too tall for regular garages. So core sound seemed like the one. My wife and I drove to NC for vacation, met Graham and ordered one on the spot. The 17 has a lot of strings, and they're always catching on something, but when everything is in place, it's the sweetest 17 footer you could hope for. I had a long reach out today, the wind shifted, and I blasted back. Now it's time for boat and I to dine. Like steve, I'm so glad my path led to b&b.
  8. 2 points
    Tempting, Joe, especially since I bailed out tonight and head for dry quarters given the all day rain. And it would be great to see you and your cruising waters. But it's been so great to spend time with daughter and grandson....
  9. 2 points
    Heading out to Cockonoe last night. Got a late start, but thank you, GPS, made it thru the dark. Odd little voyage. (Photo by daughter)
  10. 2 points
    Taking action videos singlehanded is difficult, but here's a stab. I was on the great big pond at East Harbor Campground, Catawba Island, Ohio. Plans to go out on Lake Erie thwarted by headwinds, high winds, surf in channel. Speeds I'm reading are in mph, mostly 6-point-something. Note there's a reef in. Starting from hove-to. What a boat. 20190825_155747.mp4
  11. 2 points
    Small gear hammocks set in out of the way places work well too.
  12. 1 point
    I usually just measure it into a cup carefully the ratio has a window of about 5-10 percent in my experience (I've never had any issues with paint mix ratio). I don't usually thin the 545 at all but it does start to thicken up in the cup after about an hour so I would mix a small batch, roll it on and then mix some more. It flashes off quickly and you can add another coat in about 30 min. You'll just about be able to start at one end and when you get to the other end you can go back to the beginning for the next coat. If you DO put in some reducer I would give it a couple of hours to come out of the primer before the next coat. 545 is a high build primer so it's good at this (building up a decent thickness). I don't usually bother priming anywhere i'm going to nonskid. This is nice on a bigger boat that you have to stand in while painting the cockpit because you can keep the sole unpainted (primed) while you work everywhere else then carefully jump out. Or better yet, paint the boat while on it's side for better access and also you won't have to worry about dripping condensation from your respirator into the paint or sweat if it's hot or dust/dirt. Unless you want a very high level finish I probably wouldn't even bother using 545 in the cockpit at all just so you don't have to sand it all smooth which takes a long time but priming is necessary if you're not ok with seeing a pinhole here or there. The primer will reveal a lot of imperfections you just can't see in the epoxied surface. I find the best tools for the 545 are a brush for corners and an 1/8" foam roller for surfaces. Here are some links for what we use http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/store/ For topcoat i would go with either the "hot dog" rollers or the same 1/8" foam rollers. The best advise I can give would be to sand the primer until you're happy with leaving it looking like that because the only thing that's going to change when you paint it is the color and gloss, any imperfections will still show as the topcoat is very thin. I've found that thinning topcoat too much for rolling and tipping is frustrating because I want to be done with 2 coats. If you thin too much you'll be putting 4 or 5 coats and no one has time for that plus you don't want to be sitting there with it for that long. I like to thin it minimally when rolling and tipping. Just enough that it will still level out after I roll it on and tip it with a foam brush. I would do some test pieces. Less thinner means it will flash off faster though so you have to do it like you would varnish. Do an area with roller, tip it then move on with your wet edge. DONT GO BACK. If you thin it more then you can go back to it over and over but you might have to do 3 or even 4 coats. If you thin it like almost water as some do be sure to put it on ULTRA thin for no runs and plan to do at least 3 coats It will usually flash off pretty fast though as long as you put it on thin. For the best finish (like on the topsides) you want to start at one end and finish at the other. You can't go back and add a bit to just one spot without creating a "patch" with edges etc that only you will be able to see. When I painted the inside of the Core sound 17 I did it mostly with just a brush because i put it on heavy and could just about get away with one coat. It flashed off fast and you couldn't go back but it was quick and I was happy with the finish. I didn't care about a few brush strokes here and there. It is a home made boat after all and I no longer aspire to a gel-coat production boat finish in the cockpit. Topsides are easier to be picky, cockpits i've become much more tolerant of imperfections after having done a few. When I say imperfections I mean glass tape edges, low and high spots and the occasional brush stroke or run not pinholes, cracks, crevices or anything that would collect dirt or prevent it from being wiped clean those I care about.
  13. 1 point
    I’m with Meester. I enjoy the process. I will add that it took me 15 months to build my BRS15. Please note that many days I only worked 4-6 hours on it. I was also repeatedly interrupted by “life”. But such is life. This winter, I decided to build a Two Paw 8. I figured it would only take a couple of months. Between laziness and “life”, it took six months. But I enjoyed the process, and wasn’t looking to save money by building it myself. It was fun to build, and I now have a sweet nesting boat.
  14. 1 point
    What jk said. Keep board and rudder down, lock tiller. Sheet mizzen tight. You'll be moving backwards, but sprits will be luffing on the centerline and cleats for reefing lines on sprits will be easily accessible without filling the sails. Dont forget to ease the snotter when easing the halyard and tightening the reef lines, then retighten the snotter once the reef lines are set. All my mainmast lines--halyard, downhaul, both reef lines and snotter--come back to the cockpit so I can reef from the cockpit while lying into the wind under the sheeted mizzen. Reefing the main is a matter of 30 seconds or less. That includes grabbing the clew reef line and yanking it forward in its clam cleat on the sprit. Reefing the mizzen is so quick that grabbing the sprit to tighten the clew reef line and cleat it is not an issue.
  15. 1 point
    Cool! I love "out of the box" thinking. I hope the results achieve you objectives. Please keep us updated.
  16. 1 point
    If I'm seeing this right then there is a king plank under that crack and god only knows what kind of shape that rascal is in. You do what you need to but I would take my router and run a 3/4in wide rabbet 1/4in deep the length of the crack (half the thickness of your fore deck ply if it is 1/2 in). I would then sink a couple of flat bottom holes in the rabbet to the top of the king plank to see if it has been touched and to what degree. If it looks OK then drying and soaking with epoxy would be my next step. 3/4 in batten bedded in epoxy to cover the seam. I would make sure the deck is soundly epoxied and fastened to the king plank. Nails- that's what I like to use -nice 1in long boat nails. If your ply panels aren't solidly attached you may see the epoxy disappear real fast when you soak the seam. Just be ready and keep your eye on things and stop up the leak (s) on the backside if need be. Make sure to fill up all the voids if you have any. Once when I was faced with de-lamination I resorted to drilling a bunch of 1/8in holes and then -using a syringe- I forced unthickened epoxy into the void until it overflowed. Good luck PeterP
  17. 1 point
    Wish I had thought about storing the boom on the mast. My forward window always leaked so I replaced it with a fixed port. After that the main boom would no longer fit into the Belhaven cabin for storage. Talked a friend into building a two piece boom using the fittings sold by Ductworks. It is too pretty to store outside.
  18. 1 point
    I like how you added that piece of rub rail on the inward side of your anchor roller to prevent wear, I like the cabin lock simplicity and I like your sprit saddles. I'm going to copy all of them tonight. Not sure where to get SS tubing. I might have some aluminum around. As for launching from the cockpit......put a longer piece of light line (3/16") right to the anchor shackle. Bring it back to the cockpit. With the way you have those stops you could angle it off to port easily. Put a cleat on the top deck just like the ones to starboard. When you deploy your anchor, this tether line goes right with it. I've been doing that for years, and other than the fact that that line can get pretty grungy in some cases, it has never seemed to interfere with the anchor. When you retrieve the anchor from forward, just grab the small line to bring aft and re-tether. That is some pretty country up there.
  19. 1 point
    Graham has a good point (as usual) and it is good to put the stability into perspective after seeing screenshots of the boat on it's side. There are quite a few mark 3's out there and no reports of stability issues. It is by all accounts a very stable boat and takes quite a lot of effort to capsize. I agree with Graham 100%.
  20. 1 point
    Thank you for the tips. I found some 5x5 BB. I am going to pick some up tomorrow.
  21. 1 point
    This morning I finished a new ground up weight study for the Core Sound 17 Mark 3. You can see the spreadsheet at this link. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1FdHRORADYjMWl-AEDNtsJI7Q4Dujp7n38PEjUZcsom4/edit?usp=sharing. If you would like access to copy and have your own version and add things let me know and I'm happy to share the file. All of the parts are in there in addition to our calculation for epoxy, masts, track, sails, sprits, ballast (both in and out) rudder and centerboard. I included 20lbs of hardware/rigging applied at approximately deck level. As some may know, we "re designed" the boat in 2018 with a slightly taller cabin. Basically raising the boat from the sheer line up by ~2 1/4 inches to accommodate the taller among us. The same alteration was made to the 20mk3. Here is the difference in scale. While Freds 17mk3 was one of the first, there is little difference between his boat and the 2018 model. The masts are the same height, the ballast is the same. Here is a pretty picture of the Weight study mode. All of the plywood parts are simple surfaces and the solid wood is is green. This model was used to calculate the center of gravity of the boat both longitudinally and the all important vertical center of gravity. Below, you can see the 17mk3's resulting CG calculation showing the all important VCG (vertical CG) with ballast in and board down as well as ballast in and board up as well as no ballast or board at all. This solid model was used for the calculation of flotation at various angles of heel. Note that the cockpit coamings are removed and that boat is somewhat simplified to just the sealed volumes. These calculations are based on sealed masts, and assuming that cockpit lockers don't leak. You can see that an outboard motor would not significantly alter the results because the CG of the motor would be very close to if not below the VCG in all cases. First I looked at the 90 degree case. I was hoping it would be still positive but it turned out just slightly negative. The difference between the VCG (red) and the LCB (location of center of bouancy) blue gives us the moment arm for either heeling or righting. In this case the VCG overtook the LCB by about an inch and a half so the boat is going to keep going over. In order to increase righting moment the only options here are increase buoyancy up high or increase ballast. Next I looked at the tips of the mast in the water. or about 97 deg. At this point we are still going over since now there is an even larger difference between the LCB and the VCG. You can perhaps see the difficulty. To put into perspective the heeling moment of -3300 inch lbs, a 200lb sailor standing on the tip of the board would be able to apply approximately 10,000 inch lbs of righting moment. Easily righting the boat. This was confirmed by Richard's capsize test last year. Also, seen here an 18 lb buoyancy float would prevent turtling with just a bit to spare. 18lbs is the size of the float we used in the latest capzise tests with Will's CS17. Now we look at the same setup but with the board up. Either it fell up or was up to begin with. With the same mast head float not we're on our way over....BUT The masts do provide significant flotation. In fact more than this 18lb float does at an angle of 105 degrees. I chose 105 degrees because that is about the angle that Richard's boat went to when he flipped his 17mk3 with the baord up in his 2018 capsize test seen in this video. https://youtu.be/s35CfcipAKo?t=206. The boat quickly came to rest with the mast underwater about up to the snotter connection point. Here we see that with a mast float the boat would not go turtle even if the board fell into the trunk as long as the masts were sealed. This doesn't solve the problem of how do you get the board back down so you can pull on it. I think the solution for that should be a "safety line" approximately 2' long that hangs from the trailing edge of the Centerboard which can be pulled to get the board back down. Next we have the same 105 degee case but with the board down. This seems an unlikely case since as Fred's test showed, the board will fall back into the boat. A downhaul line could be rigged on the weighed board on a breakaway cleat to prevent this. This could be a better solution than dragging a line. Finally, how much mast float should we recommend? Well one calculation is based on the case of NO ballast and NO centerboard down. Which is not inconceivable if you were in the EC racing in light winds downwind . In this scenario I calculate that a 35lb mast head float would be required to prevent the boat from going turtle. This does not take into account any flotation provided by the masts. The boat is lighter without ballast which reduces the heeling moment even though the Vertical center of gravity has gone up to 23.5" above the DWL. A 35lb buoyancy mast head float is not too bad. Here it would be in scale. 27" long, 8" tall (to keep it within 4 layers of 2" blue foam), and about 10.5" wide as viewed from the front. The 18lbs float we built came in at right about 2lbs. Unfortunately a mast head tri-color such as the one Graham installed makes the addition of this float a bit more difficulty but not impossible. The floats "mast" is 3/4" aluminum tubing and it could be mounted to the front side of the mast on a pair of brackets and I think not interfere with a tri color. One final thought that has me leaning toward the larger float size is sailing the 17 mk3 in the EC at night with a crew member sleeping down below. However unlikely, a capsize then could trap the crew member in the cabin. Keeping the drop boards out when a crew is sleeping below would be a good standard practice. The larger mast head float would eliminate that concern with ample buoyancy when combined with the ballast. Remember the 17mk3 with ballast is still a lot more stable than the original 17 so I'm not trying to alarm anyone but we also don't want anyone getting water in their cabins. You can also see how vitally important it is to keep the weight down especially on deck. We might want to think about switching to the much lighter flexible solar panels as opposed to the heavier glass ones for example. We want to do a dockside test where we pull the boat over on it's side at the dock with all rigging in place, ballast in and board up. then use a fish scale to measure at the tip of the mast. Presumably the mast will be pulling down and we could directly measure the heeling moment as a check against these numbers. It seems like it could be as much as 19lbs based on my calculations. This is a test we should have done with Graham's boat but the only test we did was without sails. Adding MORE water ballast is of course another option but this is the problem with a shallow draft boat, the ballast is not very effective at 90 deg of heel due to the very short moment arm. An extra pound of lead on the tip of the centerboard would be more effective but the board already requires a fair amount of purchase. Making the board heavier is not very difficult but it also only works if it's down where as the mast float is always there.
  22. 1 point
    It has all begun. I’m lofting the frames onto poster board, these will get transferred to Baltic Birch once I have a construction space organized.
  23. 1 point
    We just got power back on about half an hour ago. We had no real damage and have almost got everything cleaned up. I am sorry to hear about Steve's oysters but glad that he and boat are okay. I hear that highway 12, the only road down the Outer Banks suffered some damage. Speaking of oysters, how did you fare Oyster?
  24. 1 point
    I used a Yakima foam block & strap arrangement for my car for a while. Even with tie-downs to front and rear I had a couple of scary moments on the freeway, and have upgraded to proper racks. I've also just installed straps to the bolt inside the engine bay for my car as per Andy's photo above, and the improvement over my previous makeshift fixing to bumpers & grille is unbelievable. 100% recommend.
  25. 1 point
    Wally: What a good grandpa you are! I believe that it would be very difficult to roll a boat with a beam of 36 inches. Has your granddaughter practiced rolling narrower boats? In any case she could certainly use a sprayskirt to keep water off her lap, but she would likely have to settle for a wet exit in case of capsize. If she is not expert at a wet exit, she should practice that under calm conditions, including popping off the spray skirt. And here is a word from the voice of experience: "Make sure that the strap at the bow of your spray skirt is on the outside." Another thought: Depending on the conditions of the waterways where she will be paddling, a Ravenswood Low Volume may be a better boat. Many, if not most, kayakers start out with wide, short recreational boats and, with a little experience, switch to a narrower, longer, and faster model. Have fun, Andy
  26. 1 point
    I'd like to gently suggest that the number of hours spent might not really matter if you enjoy the building. In fact, hours spent in the shop might even go on the reward side of your personal accounting. As for me, I loved building my CS15, I'm immensely proud of the accomplishment, and I'm really enjoying sailing it. Triple win!
  27. 1 point
    When I built my CS17, over 10 years ago now, I got into the habit of keeping a rough tally of boatbuilding hours. At launch it was just under 500 hours but could have been 20% more. This was only time actually building/sanding etc. I didn't include any time for planning/getting materials/sharpening tools etc. Also I knew I wasn't planning on a mirror finish. It was my 5th build so I was practiced. I planned the timing of the build to maximize efficiency in my small garage (only 19 ft long and not so wide) by building all the small stuff first - rudder /tiller/centreboard/masts etc. If you want a mirror finish then add hundreds more hours. 10 years down the track with a few dings and paint touch ups I'm glad I didn't bother. Ps No kits back then. HTH Cheers Peter HK
  28. 1 point
    They wish. You also have to figure in cost of the kit, epoxy, etc., shop expenses, sails, trailer, rigging. Maybe $1/hr net for labor?
  29. 1 point
    Check-out these folks to get your motor from. Free shipping, great prices and service. https://onlineoutboards.com/collections/outboard-motors
  30. 1 point
    Definitely the 20". I'm using the 15", and it works pretty good, but it does cavitate unless your weight is all the way aft. I need to deepen my cutout to lower the motor so the prop could achieve a better "bite" in the water. Pete tried the 15" and shifted over to the 20" for these reasons. As far as HP is concerned, 2.5HP has been more than enough for me. It pushes the boat 4-5 knots at 1/4 throttle. I have had to motor up a narrow channel against a strong wind (with water ballast and overnight gear) and it performed well. It sips fuel.
  31. 1 point
    The Roller Trough design (by Graham) was proved today to be practical and effective. I'm convinced it's a huge improvement over the three-roller concept. Measuring the keel heights above the fore and aft cross supports as existed for the previous setup -- I fabricated new supports so that the tops of the rollers would support the keel at the same heights. Those heights needed to be duplicated so that the bunks would not need adjustment. In the first photo Chessie is being lowered onto the keel rollers. The trough is supported only at each end. The u-beam is so stiff that there is little flexing. My weight (~ 187 lbs) on the beam (over the mid-crossbeam closed the 3/8" gap (between the bottom of the trough and that crossbeam) by only ~ 1/8". Chessie rolled right off her trailer without any assistance. In fact she started her roll while I was still in the pickup -- but was restrained by a device for that very purpose (see next three photos). Water was over the wheel hubs this time. Next time I'll launch and recover with the top of aft roller just at the water's surface. The force needed to crank the winch was much reduced. With both the winch hook and safety chain released -- I was concerned that the boat could just roll off the trailer before it should. And if I kept either engaged, there could be such tension that would make disengagement difficult or impossible. So I fashioned the line shown above that can be released even if under stress. By pulling on the release pin of the snap shackle. And the released loop slides thru the bow eye as Chessie rolls into the river. The Roller Trough is a very nice concept and design by Graham Byrnes. Many thanks to our designer. FOLLOW UP EDIT Morning-after inspection reveals: 1. That after a launch and recovery and a 30 mile shake-down road trip -- Chessie settled into the Roller Trough nicely so that now her keel is in contact with all rollers EXCEPT #6 (just one position from the center roller which is just over the mid-crossbar). I think that the load is spread over 12 of the 13 rollers as well as the three cross bars. Chessie's ride on the highway should be much easier on her keel. Maybe, after a time, the keel roller system will settle down a bit and #6 may eventually also be in contact with the keel. 2. There are no hold-down fasteners at the mid-crossbar. However it shares in the load. 3. You can see no space at the aft end of the support and the trough at the mid-crossbar. The aft edge of the support is rounded to lower the load concentration. Later, I may fabricate a wedge to spread the load further. 4. The forward roller. The crossbeam (a pair of 2 x 6s) showed slightly more deflection when under load. 5. The aft roller. The trough is held to fore & aft the cross bars with a pair of 1/4" hot-dipped lag bolts at each end.
  32. 1 point
    It’s been a typical hot, humid summer and Labor Day is hopefully a welcome change. Unfortunately I haven’t sailed but twice this year, instead focusing my limited energy on the boat building. Internal framework came together nicely and have had lots of opportunity applying epoxy fillets and sanding down mistake after mistake. I’m grateful my learning curve is being applied to areas of the boat that will be seldom seen! A huge boost came when Amos reached out and volunteered to help me fit and install the cockpit, centerboard and numerous bulkheads. His guidance and hands on support were deeply appreciative and helped me get over a small mental hump in the build. His willingness to help speaks volumes in of itself, but I think it shows the general esprit de corps of this B&B builders forum.
  33. 1 point
    I get insomnia sometimes. The worst thing to do is look at your phone. But last night I did. I'd posted an edited video of my first sail on Skeena with Helen on FB in a group called "Pocket Yachts and trailer sailors". The post got a lot of responses, but the last one was "Why did you decide to use B and B Yacht Design?" Talk about not sleeping. My mind was racing as to the path that led me to "Skeena". I decided to write it down while fresh in my head. Let's start with my first introduction to B & B. I always watch the Everglades Challenge Spot tracker map during the event. I think a lot of adventure sailors are aware of this race. My wife always says "Watching the Dots again?" It's a goal of mine to enter someday. Obviously the Core Sound series of boats has done really well there. We all know that. Meanwhile, I've had a cat ketch rigged Sea Pearl since 2007 and while I love the boat, it's lack or recover-ability in a knock down makes me uncomfortable in a race like that. I pick my weather window with local sailing trips and in a long race like that you lose that control. That said, I've never swamped her or even come close and I've sailed her in some tough conditions. But I know being sleep deprived makes you do dumb things. So I rooted on the other Sea Pearls in the race (yes there were some epic capsizes) and the Core Sounds because of the rig. In 2010 I went to the MASCF in St Michaels , MD. If you haven't gone, you should. There is a gunk-holing event out to Wye Island and the first year I did it in my Sea Pearl. A Core Sound 20 joined us. I believe the builder was named Brett. He was throwing crab pots while sailing and I remember marveling that that was possible, both that he had the room to store them and the stability. I didn't get a close look at his boat thought. At the actual festival I studied other Core Sounds and decided that they looked like too much work. I did catch the boat building bug and ironically picked a Spindrift 11N as my first build. I thought this was a good "started project" to see if boat building was for me. She turned out to be fun to build (the plans were just the right kind of complete, not paint by number, but everything you need) and speedy to sail and then I was back to thinking about a replacement for Wildcat, my SP21. I'd started doing more adventure sailing. I'd joined a bunch of folks that I met at the MASCF and we sailed around the Chesapeake, 1000 Islands in NY, a trip to Maine and I was also doing a lot of solo trips. I got to thinking how nice a cabin would be, mostly so I'd have dry storage and be able to stay out longer. But the boats I looked at mostly had deep drafts (If it draws more than a foot it was rejected) or had complicated rigs that took a long time to rig (30 minutes or more - rejected) or didn't look easy to single-hand (my experience favored rigs with a mizzen) or were heavy (over 1000# rejected. Towing heavy stuff isn't fun, sucks gas and is scary) or was too big to build in my basement or too high fit in my garage. Boats I considered were the Bolger Chebbaco (no data on how well they sail and no support from current plan supplier), Norwalk island Sharpie (I still think she is pretty, but you could only buy an expensive kit), Welsford "Sweet Pea" and a few others. But nothing was just right. And then one day while I was at work Graham posted a 3-D rendering of what he and Alan had been working on. I was immediately smitten. It checked every box. The right rig, shallow draft, big self bailing cockpit, lots of storage, seaworthy, fast. And while I favor a more traditional look I though she was attractive enough. I especially liked the full width cabin. The rest is chronicled well in this thread, but I couldn't be happier. Now that I've sailed her a bit I'm even more convinced I picked the right design. I had some personal misfortunes (lost my Dad, father in law, and business partner of 27 years) while building that slowed things a lot. And there are a few things that were a bit under developed in the kit (hatch, motor mount) but the support has been excellent both here on the forum and from Graham and Alan. I can't imagine how much more difficult and less fun things would have been without this community. I made plenty of mistakes and there are a few things I'd do different if I did it all over again, but I'll link this to the FB question and consider it answered.
  34. 1 point
    Put a floating tenon in the joint. Nice and fat - 1/2" by 2" +. Epoxied in. PeterP
  35. 1 point
    Congratulations to you both, Amos and Lara. Well done.
  36. 1 point
    I stuffed a piece of foam I cut from a old kick-board and shoved them in the back part of the forward end of the coamings to prevent things from sliding backward. Those cabbies are really handy. I'm not sure about plugging them permanently. I'd guess if you ever turtled (not likely) having that flotation that high might be problematic. I'd want to get Graham or Alan's blessing first. As for oars I'm with Amos. I'm will eventually get to that. I didn't want to cut down the coamings as I might be tall enough to not need to. In the meantime I have a three piece collapsble SUP paddle that worked pretty good in my one time use of it. I tried a regular canoe paddle and it was too short. I'm going to put some clips on the port side of the cabin roof to hold it so it's handy. My plan when I make oars is to use the DuckWorks carbon fiber connectors to make them two piece. For storage I'm going to put a port in the left aft bulkhead. To store the oars, remove the port, slide the pieces into the aft storage and then once they clear the seat hatch, slide them aft and then close the port. In theory this should work, but I think my oar length becomes limited to the storage locker length which I think is 5.5 feet. I'll measure first.
  37. 1 point
    Amos, that is great. A boat deserves a name and naming after a significant female in your life is a long established tradition. It's interesting that everybody I sail with refers to their boat, no matter what the name as "her" or "She".
  38. 1 point
    Extremely informative videos Alan, keep them coming I'm right behind you in the build of my CS MK3. I just fitted my anchor locker deck and cut my forward inwales and cabin top stringers.
  39. 1 point
    So, this is what I’ve been doing of late. It’s a digital drawing with “colored pencils”. Sorry for taking the initiative to draw it without asking, but here it is. Peace, Robert
  40. 1 point
    Thanks, Yo. I HAVE been doing boat stuff, too. Keeping the small, well used boats in fighting form takes time away from jumbo. Haha. And, I keep scribbling... Peace, Punt Painter (Yes, the grey pic IS upside down...)
  41. 1 point
  42. 1 point
    Well it’s been a few days now and I have been working on the tabernacles, and the center board contour, the tabernacles are done as far as possible until the installation. the rudder is ready for glassing, after talking to Alan Stewart I was told that they will shoot for August 20 to ship the kit. Till then I will continue to make parts that I will need to use.
  43. 1 point
  44. 1 point
    Went to the DMV and actually got my paperwork today. Skeena will be in the water this weekend one way or another. I have a few modifications on the trailer to make and add the rubrails but basically she is done. I made a decision I like and want to share. I decided to add a bungy to keep the aft hatch closed. Pics: No latch! A couple of screw eyes. One to tie to and the other to allow the bungy to be long enough to not run too tight. Doesn't seem to interfere, and the hatch will be always shut. Easy to hold open with your boat shoes or shop slippers! Should be a full report Monday!
  45. 1 point
    Hi all, at the 2018 Messabout, Graham mentioned his design of a 24 foot cat ketch that would be blue water capable. We were instantly interested! Our CS20.3 is a fantastic boat, quite seaworthy, fast, fun and easy to trailer about, but I am a big guy and the cabin of our Southern Express was “kinda tight” for me. We have a blue water boat that I thought would be a maxi-trailerable but after several very expensive moves I realized.......missed my goal. So, I have the pleasure of introducing..... Mathew Flinders!!
  46. 1 point
    I've tested four coatings that I had in my paint cabinet from various projects. Ace polyurethane, Minwax polyurethane, Minwax spar urethane (which I think is another term for polyurethane), and Man O' War marine spar varnish. All the coatings worked with the 9 oz material. I'm going to go with the Man O' War varnish, my paint store mentioned that the spar varnish will be more flexible than a interior/exterior polyurethane. So it could be that Zar and Coelan are maybe the only two coatings not compatible with the 9 oz material.
  47. 1 point
    The weather here has been very lousy. I don't have the boat waterproof enough to leave outside, so work has been a bit slowed because I need to roll it out of my garage to put the masts up. But my dumb mistake on the mizzen tabernacle is almost over. My son Teddy helped me tip up the mast and mark it's proper location. I made a little template to rout the mast step into the base and routed the base last night........it came out nice. If fits snug and I think by this weekend we'll be past this self made problem. Unfortunately I'll be gone for a week on a family vacation out west and momentum will stop until I get back June 3rd, but I'd like to get past this before I go. I have a trip scheduled to go to Lake Champlain. At the rate I'm going it might be with my Sea Pearl, which is frustrating. Between work, HS track meets and honey-do's, time has been scarce. On a real positive note my good friend Doug bought me a oil lamp. Here it is hanging in the cabin. Up in Maine last year on his Cornish Shrimper we used his lamp to take the chill off the cabin. I'm super excited to have this aboard. Last night I snuck out in a totally dark garage to light it and it really makes a cozy cabin. I know y'all southerners don't need any heat in the cabin, but up here the evenings get cool and on a small boat this is the ticket. Thank you Doug!
  48. 1 point
    After a first time kayak adventure last year in a plastic sit-on kayak, I knew that I'd have to get to get my own but for less money and better performance. I also like to build things. Being an airplane mechanic that has worked with vintage planes, finding Kudzu Craft on the internet was all I needed to lock-in my decision. The laminated coaming and floorboards are still in-work but since it just came off the strongback, here are some quick FROG photos. Since I started, I scrapped my initial bow, Stern and fwd coaming support frame. Through the magic of CAD, a laser cutter and reading this internet forum, I was able to attempt recreating the grandeur of newer Kudzu cockpits while retaining the elegance of the original design. I do not recommend or condone altering the design though due to product liability, safety and respect for the designer (sorry). The stringers are wrc finished with spar varnish. The grey frames are saber-saw cut bb ply coated with polyurethane epoxy and the ply with the charred edges are the laser pieces finished with spar varnish. More and better photos to follow after the coaming is done. In Arizona, grass isn't plentiful in yards. Thanks for all the support this community and Kudzu has provided during this build.
  49. 1 point
    I wouldn't be able to build a boat like this without the help of this forum (and people like Jay who let me look at his boat in person). I think my next build will be a Moccasin!
  50. 1 point
    When I do the edges of tape, I take a light swipe with a 7" disk sander, to knock the raised edge flat and flush(ish) with surrounding fabric behind it. Next I take a smear of fairing compound down that edge with a squeegee, plastic applicator or putty knife. This gets 90% or more filled and I knock it flat with a block or long board.


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