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Showing most liked content since 02/25/2018 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    All the sole (deck) hatches fabricated.
  2. 1 point
    I felt fortunate to get a coffee break. Was able to go home with lots of dust of various compositions and did not have to pay for any of it.
  3. 1 point
    Well, it did not make Dawn Patrol any faster, they already had the spinnaker but the top down furler certainly made spinnaker hoisting and dousing quick and easy so that they could use it even on short legs where they might not normally feel that it would be worth the effort or use it in more marginal conditions knowing that they could easily get rid of it. I have been lusting for a top down furler for a long time as I usually sail Carlita solo or with my dog. Mandy does not seem to care about that pretty red, white and blue asymmetric spinnaker. It was the price tag of around $1000.00 that discouraged me. They have been in use for large short handed boats for some time now but it appears that manufacture's cannot be bothered with those of us who sail small boats. I started to design one for myself. As I delved into how I was going to make double concentric ball races it occurred to me that I could just make a swivel and insert it into Ronstan's bottom up 60 series furler. I showed the drawing to Alan and said that I would make one for him for the EC, he just happened to have an R60 on Mosquito. We ordered up some torlon balls and I got to work on the lathe. What makes the top down furler different is that the furling drum does not connect to the tack of the sail. The drum is connected to a torque line that turns the top swivel so the top of the sail winds up first and starts removing that extra cloth from the middle of the sail before the foot of the sail starts to wind up. . The tack is attached to the second swivel which makes it independent of the furling drum. Bottom up furlers work okay for relatively flat cut sails but top down works better for spinnakers. The first picture shows our shop built swivel waiting for the torlon balls to arrive. I got lucky as we tried a spare length of dacron braid that just happened to be twice the length of the hoist. We tied it as a double line and it seemed to be about right. The shackle showed that it might foul or at least chafe on the sail as it rotated. I rounded out the shackle hole to reduce chafe and replaced the shackle for multiple wraps with a light lashing and eliminated the problem. Drum furlers won't work because they cannot hold enough line. You need the endless line that just has a single turn around the drum giving unlimited turns. They are also less sensitive to line alignment which allows the drum to out-hauled to the end of the bowsprit or in-hauled as needed. Here is the email that Alan sent the first night of the EC. spinnaker flying all day furler works like a dream. 14knots recorded. heard a sea pearl capsized have no more details. having fun. Boat feels old hat at this.
  4. 1 point
    For what it is worth Steve, I put a fillet up the inside corners in lieu of the timber quad and then laid double biased tape over that while it was still very green. I also drilled and epoxied quarter inch dowels through the sides and well into the front face. I have had the unstayed mizzen out in quite a strong blow (28 knot gusts) without any signs of trouble. Still, laying glass over the front face can't be bad, but I wanted mine to have a timber finish.
  5. 1 point
    Drew, I had the same question. Unfortunately that would only work to furl the sail in about half way and then it would bind up. Once the top half of the sail starts to wind onto the torsion line then the whole thing goes and the tack starts wrapping up as well. We found the best was to just keep winding and all the spinnaker sheets were taken up (wrapped around the sail) and all out of the way.
  6. 1 point
    Swimboy's post from Watertribe. Good seamanship in difficult conditions: “A small squall hit just as I was getting a bridge to open near Overhaul Inlet. Tacting back and forth, calling the bridge tender 4 or 5 times to respond, he finally started to open the bridge and as I had a controled jibe, a big gust pushed me over. With the high wind and tide, my boat slowly turned turtle and got masts stuck in the mud. Had to swim away from the boat to grab my waterproof bag with my phone, debit card, license, etc. and swam back to the boat. Police help arrived. I was not injured. The boat was turned back upright but it took 2 boats and 3 1/2 hours. Wind was still strong at that time. Got towed to Overhaul public boat ramp where I stayed for 2 1/2 days until I could get transportation. Thanks to all who followed and helped during this amazing adventure. A special thanks to Paula [Martel, of Watertribe] for all her help. I'll do a follow up on the expedition.”
  7. 1 point
    Very nice. Love those stools, even if they don't float well. What a great setup you have.
  8. 1 point
    Using plastic sheet or peel ply, I never need fill coats. I use the plastic sheet especially when doing repairs, because I can see through it. The solid plastic sheet forces all the resin to fill the weave. If you saturate well, and squeegee the plastic sheet (or peelply) all over, the resin will fill the weave, and when the plastic comes off there is a smooth, flat surface. No weave to fill. Peace, Robert
  9. 1 point
    Walt, I read your full tread and I did not realize that you used Sapphire, from the picture it looks a little more "royal blue" and I thought the Sapphire was a bit more purple-blue (if thats a thing!) but I am and was looking at a computer screen as the source of color so who knows.. hahaa, yours looks great. At this point I would settle for dodo brown as long as its finished! Thanks Hulsey
  10. 1 point
    This is true! I married a Long Island girl and have to wear a hoodie sweatshirt in my house because the ac is set so low. She practically never leaves the house May through October while I will be outside all day, it’s hot as hell sometimes but doesn’t really bother me.
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    I did not mean that the entire foredeck should come off but only back to the main bulkhead. How much damage is actually done to the beams in addition to the kingplank is not shown and will probably be clear when you have full visual access. The forward part of the foredeck would be buckled if there were damage to the stem/bow area so I doubt that is the case. I devised the router technique to remove a large damaged plywood panel from a 24' trimaran some years ago and the interior frames and stringers were not affected at all. After installing a new panel and fairing it in, the repair was invisible. I'd expect the same success with your boat. How much of the foredeck needs removing will be clear when you get into the job. There is an obvious point at the forehatch shown by Graham that will be easier if there is no damage beyond that. The bad news is that we sometimes break our boats. The good news is that, since we built them, we can also fix them. No boatyard bills involved.
  13. 1 point
    This year Spawn had a crew of 2. In a previous year they did have a crew of 3.
  14. 1 point
    Did not have time to look at this but 1/32" is nothing in the brackets. The boat will flex more than that.
  15. 1 point
    My wife says that "Jazz Hands" is my last boat. But maybe if she saw this............outstanding!
  16. 1 point
    Very nice, Ken...amazing, actually. You're gonna love her for a long time.
  17. 1 point
    That is really nice. If I ever switch to power, that's one of my likelies. Especially seeing the work you've done.
  18. 1 point
    You must remember some of the information in the MSDS is lawyer driven and also on legislation. For example a test conducted in California lab rats (for example), which were force fed epoxy molecule elements daily for a month, might show a proclivity toward a certain reaction, cancer or illness potential. This doesn't mean it's the case with the casual user or even the professional that also swims in the stuff, but if you start eating goo on toasted rye bread every day, you might have some issues. In other words, some of the information is published, "just in case" (read law suits) and possibly for reasons not as simple to understand.
  19. 1 point
    The American Heart Association recommends the song “Stayin’ Alive”. No joke! And I want THESE ladies performing CPR on me! (Or my wife, of course.)
  20. 1 point
    Thanks Graham. I assume you aren't taking Carlita? My wife always says "Are you watching those dots again? I don't get it!"
  21. 1 point
    Personally, I like toe rails bedded, because it requires a caulk line which is easier to paint/varnish against. It also means you can remove it, clean up any dings and nicks, re-varnish to perfection and reinstall over more beading. I find this neater to do, but it all depends on you. The toe rail will be more waterproof and durable if it's 'glassed place, but varnishing is more difficult as are repairs, this way. If I 'glassed it down, I'd likely paint it instead of varnish, which can look nearly as good and is much easier to maintain. I did this on a buddy's 40' power yacht a few years ago (refinished the whole exterior). Only the rail cap (really nice mahogany) was left varnished. The rest of the bright work; cabin top trim, windshield frame, grab rails, bases under ventilators, etc., were painted a similar brown as the rail caps varnish. He didn't even notice I painted them for a week, when I got a call about "you painted my varnish . . .". "Yeah Pete, I painted your varnish, but you didn't notice for a week and it's a whole lot easier to touch up the paint or even redo the paint than the varnish, so do you want me to strip them down and apply more varnish, or" . . . Having owned this old wooden cruiser for a couple of decades and applied many gallons of varnish, never being fully satisfied with the quality of the finish or it's longevity . . . he understands now.
  22. 1 point
    Today, Catnip's cradle completed. I've tried to keep it simple. It's made to be clamped (or screwed) to my work table. The table is an ordinary 8' folding table, raised ~ 7" to "workbench" height and with a piece of 3/4" x 30" x 96" plywood added to its top. For this project, I've also added a 1/2" x 44" x 96" pressed-woodchip board. This makes a heavier work table. The cradle is made of a 1 x 8 x 96 "straight back", two lengths of 2 x 4s, and 12mm pressed-woodchip hull-bottom cross-sections. I had planned to use the shipping-crate pressed-woodchip panels -- but they were just 6mm. The assembled cradle weighs in at 18 lbs. The pieces. The setup. Assembled and ready for use. But with a small problem. I made the inside dimension between the hull-bottom cross-sections at 48". However, the cross-sections require bevels: 12 & 10 degrees, forward and aft respectively. The higher (outboard) edges should be separated by 48" per the plans. Relocating the cross-members only requires backing out six 2" dry-wall screws. The height of the cross-section is set at 3.5" (scaled from the plans) which should allow Catnip's bottom (at lowest point) to just touch the straight-back. The slot (and notches) were cut to accempodate the 3/4" keel. Now, the fun part starts.
  23. 1 point
    Yeah, life can be tough here in central Florida, but someone has to do it. This winter we had one morning in late December where it got down to 32 degrees for about 45 minutes and two days in early January with near 32 degree temperatures for a few hours in the wee morning bits. Very occasionally we'll stay in the 50's during daylight. It's not uncommon to have 50's at night, though this year not many days at all, with general lows in the low 60's and daytime highs several degrees over the average. Today was 82, and tonight a cold front will drop in, so maybe we'll touch the 50's for a couple hours, but I'm not holding my breath. Tomorrow will be close to average for a change, but then back to higher than normal temperatures, until the weekend, where we'll get back to the averages again. All this said, I've still had to get things done with some cool weather, if occasionally and these heaters work good. I also use them to accelerate curing, which they do quite well too. If you can raise the ambient temperature by 20 degrees during the cure, you'll half the cure time. Another 20 degrees higher and you'll 1/4 the cure time, so it can offer benefits other than cold weather accommodation. So, if you have a goo that needs 12 hours to cure hard enough to sand lightly, take it to 115 degrees under a tarp and it's cooked in 3 hours, which a big difference. I often work with slow and supper slow formulations and this permits long setup and working time, but waiting for a cure, so I'll cook it and get the best of both worlds.
  24. 1 point
    Hi All-Finally got off my butt to take some pics of ROSIE. I have most of the cockpit seating and storage complete. The interior cabinetry is mostly complete. I am waiting for some material to arrive so I can spray the cabinet and drawer faces. Hope to have them complete this week. The interior painting has begun. I cut the window and port openings in the pilot house sides a couple of days ago. I love the new open look and how it makes the lovely profile stand out. It is the small details that add up to a pleasing look. Graham’s artistry really shines with little things like small changes in the oval port size in the forward cabin. They get slightly larger as you look aft. Something that might not be obvious but makes a subtle difference. The galley is coming along nicely. I bit the bullet and splurged for a WALLAS diesel/kerosene stove that doubles as a cabin heater. The countertop is plywood that has been coated with a very cool product from DAICH COATINGS. It has stone imbeded in the 3 part system and makes a really nice counter. Thanks to Henry Hassel, one of the BLUEJACKET builders for that recommendation. I plan to build the cuddy cabin roof soon and begin final exterior paint and deck coating. Unfortunately the pilot house sides and aft bulkhead will have to be removed to extricate ROSIE from the shop. Now only 9,090 details left! Ken
  25. 1 point
    Here is Sumer Breeze with her new ownwers, Dale and Kristi in Florida.
  26. 1 point
    Incremental gains...plywood gussets for the centre frame cut out. Centre seat mocked up. Almost done glueing parts together. Started fairing the interior just a little, taking down the high spots from runs here and there. Stern seat has a pretty good curve to it so I'm weighing it down to flatten it a bit. Need to tape the bulkheads in place but probably won't get to that right away. Need to assemble the centre frame; will probably glue it up in place with saran wrap etc between the frame and the hull so I can keep it free until the fairing is done. Need to think about the bow seat a little; it has to incorporate a mast collar so that'll take some effort. I guess there's no point in just listing everything left to do...I'm only half done at this point and have been at every stage so far and expect to be half done at every subsequent stage as well. Don't even want to imply a planned launch date yet.
  27. 1 point
    Here is the child improved oil finish to the ply I was talking about, lubed it up pretty good! I decieded to just make my rudder out of laminated fir as I had some good looking stuff from a trim job I had done a while ago. I much prefer to plane/work solid wood where possible. it came out good I think, I followed the bevel lines very close, very satisfying running a plane. got the seat top finial cut and the boom laminated ready for shaping. I ordered Interlux Brightsides in Sapphire Blue for the hull and Matterhorn White for the interior, Interlux Pre-Coat as primer. The water line will be Matterhorn white. See how it goes....still much to do! I wish I had cut a better radius on the optional aft bulkhead, I regret it every time I look at it from this direction. Looks like Stewie's head from Family Guy
  28. 1 point
    Chick, it’s clear. Nobody can tell it’s missing. Peace, Robert
  29. 1 point
    The four ounce will suck up much less epoxy— half as much?
  30. 1 point
    1. yup 2. I quit a couple years before I built mine. 3. yup 4. yup I towed my 9N for 5 years cruising. I loved sailing about the harbors in the late afternoon/evening with a cocktail. I was almost always the only dinghy to sail into the dock, just some kind of satisfaction in doing that. Have fun building. Oh, BTW, I see no pictures either.
  31. 1 point
    This is what Ted Brewer calls "Difficult Design Decisions" and isn't imposable, but things will have to be sacrificed. Board boats will be the shoalest, but well require much form stability to carry a good spread, which will lead to a harsher ride in some conditions and other compromises. Frances's bigger sister Leigh may be what you're after. In this size range of yacht (30' LOA) there are many choices, which include standing headroom, robust construction, shoal draft and a good performance envelope. I'm not sure how shoal you want, but the compromise needs be understood. Flicka, Frances and Leigh are all shoal and have standing headroom. To make them more shoal, you'll likely have to give up something else, like windward ability or comfort in a confused sea way. Make a few lists of the things you need. One list of the perfect world yacht, including all the things you'd like to see in this yacht, cost, effort and equipment be damned. Another list of only the things you can't live without. This will be a shorter list. Then after much soul searching you'll develop a third list, the one that will most closely reflect your desires. This will afford you a chance at finding a yacht that fits you. You'll find after making the lists (there will be several, when all is said and done) that many of the things you wanted going in, turned out to be less important (once you realize what you'd lose in return) to you then other things that maybe weren't very high on the first few lists. Good luck . . .

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