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Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .


Pete McCrary

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Dave,...

The interior battery box just sits over the battery -- and the 4-sided step-box sits over the interior battery box. Besides the holes in the top, there's no bottom -- and the back side only extends just below the top edge of the battery. However, the battery sits on the keel (almost the lowest point in the boat). There is no vent overboard. I'm assuming that shouldn't be a problem because the battery is not in a "confined" space. Would you agree -- or require a vent from the bilge to overboard?

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The battery's plastic "hold-down" base is held down to a 3/4" plywood sole (with four SS 3/4" x #12 PHWS). That sole is form-fitted and held to the keel with thickened epoxy. There's about a 1/2" space above the keel centerline and the bottom of the plywood sole.

The cabin sole has been cutout so that it fits around the plastic hold-down base. The bottom of the battery is about 3/4" below the top of the cabin sole. The bottom of the base is like a tray with about 1/4" lip around its edge (without any vent notches).

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The interior battery box has no bottom and simply slips over the battery and rests on the cabin sole. The sole has slots between its planks and there are limber holes under its cross beams.

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However, the cabin footwell under the battery and cabin sole is not vented. Dave, would you consider that a problem?

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Battery box/step looking good. I am concerned that your motor well will not allow the motor to tilt far enough to latch in the tilt position (Don't ask why I say that.) Also, is there room to screw the clamp screws down with our jamming your knuckles against the bottom? Just checkin"...

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Chick: The short answer to all Qs. Yes.

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Also, the motor shaft is vertical and can rotate 360 free of the transom.

post-4915-0-46519000-1467500117_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-72640900-1467500160_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-44031700-1467500221_thumb.jpeg HOW DOES ONE POST a "portrait" pix so that it's not on its side ??

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And I'm pretty sure that in all conceivable combinations of rudder, motor, and propeller positions -- they won't collide.

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A GREAT DAY FOR AMERICA !! And for working on "Chessie" -- which is really therapy.

Yesterday I fabricated and dry-fitted knees for support of the cockpit deck and hatch frames.

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ATTENTION: The beams at the edges of the hatch openings are INCORRECTLY placed. In their place will be Part # h8. I may relocate the beams to form a frame around the hatch drainage gutters. Haven't decided yet.

Next will be the remaining deck support beams. Now that that's done, I'll have to locate and mark 17 places where deck beams cross over (or "T") each other. And carefully cut-and-fit 34 half-notches. Then, maybe, she'll be ready for tac welding to lock all joints -- followed by filleting.

Any suggestions or "look-out-fors" ??

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"Chessie's" cockpit deck has been trimmed, dry-fitted, and the overlaps (at the butt joints) have been marked. I'll probably not glue her down until she's up-right after the turnover and glassing her bottom.

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Notice the transverse beams supporting the fwd & aft edges of the hatch drains. Without them parts #h8 were only supported by the cockpit wall and (after ducking) the deck itself.

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Next will be the cabin roof.

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HELP: Nautical rigging advice needed to assist in "Chessie's" anticipated TURNOVER.

Here's my planed procedure for the turnover:

I have 3 pulley rigs, each with a 6:1 purchase, rated at 400 lbs lift limit (1,200 lbs total). Two will lift the stern fitted with a "bow eye" on each side. The third will lift the actual bow eye on the stem. With two helpers, we will raise the boat high enough to remove her cradle. Then one of the stern pulleys will lift one side while the other side is lowered -- until the boat is at 90 degrees. Next, the bottom of the stern will be supported from the floor on a sawhorse. At this point the low stern pulley will be disconnected (snap hook) and reconnected to the higher side of the transom and its slack taken tightly up. The other stern pulley is then moved to the lower position. With both stern pulleys "snugged-up', they are then alternately eased and taken up such that the boat is rotated unil her bottom is up! Then all three pulleys together lower the boat onto staging supporting her at the stern (at the cockpit deck support framing) and the bow (thru forward hatch opening and up to the bunk top just aft of Blk 2).

The boat at this point (cabin roof on but cockpit deck and coamings not yet installed) the boat will weigh probably < 600 lbs. About 300 at the bow eye, and 150 each at each side of the stern. With a 6:1 purchase, then the pulls will be about 50 lbs for the bow man and 25 to 50 lbs for each stern man.

My rigging problem is this: The setup is not convenient for each pulley to have its own "cleat" to which its pull line may be belayed. Each pulleyman will have to continuislly keep a steady 25 to 50 lb pull while others move things around. With my Compac Eclipse the x6 mast raising pulley had a cam cleat as a built-in part of the movable pulley end. But I don't have anything like that. SUGGESTIONS and/or ideas WOULD BE APPRECIATED from fellow builders who have faced and solved similar challenges. I'm thinking of something like what is used to tension tent lines, or a knot that can be made on a line already under tension to another line under tension.

ALSO, I would very much appreciate any critical comments concerning my proposed procedure for "Chessie's" turnover. Do you see any "dead ends"?

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Just throwing out this idea for your consideration.   How about using the eyes as anchor points?  Do the anchor points need to be somewhere separate from the hull for some reason?  

 

Consider prusik knots for a slip-grip knot that would allow you to adjust and hold the different tackles.  The prusik is a climber's knot that is/was used to climb a rope.  See http://www.animatedknots.com/

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I suggest that you set up whatever system you have in mind and then just lift the boat a few inches and set it back down.  That will tell you a lot about whether you're using the right purchase, etc.  When it comes time to flip a project I think people (myself included) get a bit intimidated at first, but these are actually fairly light boats.  If you do a test lift with maybe a partial roll you'll see what you're up against and when you're ready to go it will work.

I helped the Stewarts move Dawn Patrol (CS20 #103) from the basement to the trailer.  The boat had to go out the door into the back yard, then around the side of the house and over the fence and up the hill to the street where the trailer was waiting.  We did it all with muscle power.  Lots of people showed up and milled about for a while then we all grabbed hold of it and carried it away.  Somewhere there's video of the event.

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Pete, congratulations on the rollover milestone!  If you are so inclined cruise through our build thread for CS20.3 sn 2 and see the system we used.  Looks cumbersome but it went quick and easy. It is big but not that heavy.  If fact on the final roll from inverted to upright, Carol and I did it  in about 45 seconds, with no drama.

 

Be completed in time for this year's messabout?

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I've found rolling over small boats (like this one) is much simpler if a single tackle is employed, rather than multiple tackles. It's too hard to hoist uniformly, with several people pulling on stuff. Instead of tackle, consider rigging up a trailer winch on a homemade gantry or even through a snatch block on the garage rafter. It can hold the boat at any height without someone complaining about how heavy it is. With a strap hoisting near midship, you can tilt one end up, pivot the whole boat around and over stuff, etc. With with multiple hoist points, you're married to how it must be moved, rotated, etc. A cheap trailer winch is $20 and can easily handle your boat at this stage. Lag it to a wall stud and rig a turning block on the ceiling or a gantry.

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Jay,... It's hard to say. Hopefully !! I work some every day, but don't push it, keeping it fun. I'm actually hoping to have her sailable by September 30 (the MASCF in Saint Michaels). And, of course, the B & B Mess-about in late October.

She could show up in her underware.

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Beginning to look more like a boat that has a cabin.

I'm using Peel Ply over neat epoxy for the underside of the roof panels. Photo shows the Peel Ply laid on with the cure at the "thin-film set." After an over-night cure, it peeled right off. A beautiful finish.

post-4915-0-38980900-1468847389_thumb.jpeg This required 5 "pumps" of epoxy with the B & B pumps.

post-4915-0-10289900-1468847698_thumb.jpeg A very nice dry fit.

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I just wanted to see what she may look like inside the cabin with half the roof on.

Today the other half gets done -- and then both will be joined (on the garage floor) with four butt blocks along the centerline,. I may be ready by this weekend to have the roof on permanently. Then, I think, I should be ready for the rollover.

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Rollover? I thought you said you were having turnovers? Well, I'm not coming if there aren't any pastries! :)

You are doing fine work, Pete. The exciting thing is I just scored my own CS, so there's a chance I may see this thing in person at a Messabout, now that I just HAVE to go.

Keep on chugging. Ha. Chugging. Get it? Trains, y'all. Geez, I'm dumb. I'm going to work.

Peace,

Robert

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