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Hirilonde last won the day on March 8

Hirilonde had the most liked content!

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About Hirilonde

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Charlestown, RI
  1. Chick's Micro Power Cruiser Project.

    /em nods knowingly at Don and chuckles again
  2. Spindrift 10 build

    chuckle chuckle
  3. "There be whales Cap'n...!"

    Wow! There's a memory locked away for life.
  4. Rating the Coresound 20 Mk3

    I would build a Spindrift 10 in a heart beat if racing it was an option.
  5. A dodger for a Core Sound 20 Mk 3 . .

    The dodger on my old Renegade used snaps along the combing with an adjustable webbing (much like the sketch) at the very corner to keep the tension on the snaps to a minimum at this stress point.
  6. Spindrift 10 build

    If I had more material, I wouldn't think twice about it. If it is the housing/box then I would buy more material if I had to. If it is just the blade, and you don't mind wasting some time and epoxy, then try cleaning it.
  7. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    The key with oily woods is to clean the mating surfaces with a strong solvent immediately before bonding. I use acetone on Teak and White Oak and have never suffered failure. Acetone dissolves oils well and dries almost immediately. You can glue up within minutes, even in cold temperatures. Mill, fit, dry clamp, yadda, yadda, then clean with acetone and immediately glue up.
  8. CS17 mooring

    As a kid, and before strict regulation I used an old fashion cast iron radiator for a Blue Jay. Worked great. But then we had mud.
  9. Midnight wondering from the Ch. Mate

    1. Combined, total volume 2. No, it only really helps with high speed planing and a round corner is more forgiving of damage. 3. Any and all of the above. My Lapwing transom is Sapele BS 1088 ply. Thin material can be added at a weight cost. Where the end grain is not appealing, I do this..... (see photo) 4. Good question, not for me to answer. 5. Most of the solid wood on these boats can be almost anything. Some things should be hard as in gunwales. Most will be epoxy encapsulated, the rest can.
  10. OC20/B in Biloxi MS USA

    Are you saying you will use boards wider than 1 ΒΌ" wide made of 2 or more pieces biscuited together? No epoxy along the entire matted edge? Biscuits can help with alignment, but are designed to swell with water base glue. They can be used with epoxy, but won't swell. I just find that clamping on a true flat surface is key, and with pressure down onto this table flush and flat is achieved. Biscuits in this case won't hurt any. I just don't find them necessary. If you need to improve the glue joint by adding surface area, I choose a spline mortised into a slot in both boards. I have seen composite sheet (fiberglass board) ripped to width and used as the spline in a rudder.
  11. Painting

    I agree with both. My Lapwing is 3 seasons used and the S3 is still in great shape. It is not nearly as shiny as solvent based, but I like semi-gloss. As my boat is lapstrake I brushed the hull. I did end up painting the bilge in a 1 part poly as when I leave the boat outside during the summer some times the puddles I get, even with the bailer open can be an issue. Next time I will try the mini-roller. My Spindrift is Awlgrip, the entire hull is painted and then hard bottom paint on the bottom. I have left it in the water at the dinghy dock for 6 months with no issues.
  12. Spindrift 12 build log

    It is hard to see in the photo, but I mounted my rowlock block on the inside of the gunwale. This unfortunately means my oars rub on the bumper guard. If I had to do it again, and I might some day, I would fabricate a wider block that laps over the top of the gunwale and move the actual rowlock up and maybe outboard a little. My Spindrift was built as a tender and therefore I have this bulky fendering in the way that most don't have. By using the wider block, that sits on and laps the gunwale on the inside you would have a wider block and more glue mating surface.
  13. No 13-14ft options?

    I sail a Lapwing, 15'-8" and I don't think there really is a circumstance where I would need all 4 on the same side. 3 and 1 is the same as 2 and 0, and that along with being able to reef covers it all. Well, up to as much wind as you want to be out in. But all that said I consider both the CS 15 and Lapwing to be 4 person boats. After that it gets too cozy, though it can be pushed. The size of the people matters too. Your drawing appears to put the mizzen much further aft than Graham's designs. That may be why you see an issue with room for the helm.
  14. Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3

    Has anyone tried suggesting what Chick should build next?
  15. Meet Belhaven 19 - Clementine

    IMO, and for what little it is worth, I find that the prettiest cruising B&B design boat I have seen. Hmmm, a 20' Lapwing with a cabin?