Hirilonde

A friend even uses a belt sander? I do it with a hand plane and a belt sander!

As to whether the sailing characteristics are much different, I wouldn't think so, but I don't really know. As for building, they require the same attention. Maybe the 15 requires a little less sanding, but not significantly less. My decision about size was based on storage space and launching as even a 15 would be big enough for my use. I knew I was moving to Florida for retirement, and garages in Florida are often 20' deep. My Lapwing on a trailer is 19' 8" long. The CS 15 on a trailer would be a tad shorter, and a 17 on a trailer is probably over 20'. Based on all of the build threads I have read over the years I think I can say that anyone with some patience, a little skill and willing to ask questions who find the idea of building a boat fun can succeed. I like to stress the fun part. If you are building just to try and save money you will find building a boat tedious and used sailboats in good condition are often cheap. I think the 2 best reasons to build a boat are: it is fun, and you can customize the details to your specs. I never recommend changing design details as you will likely sacrifice sailing characteristics as Graham and Alan have done a great job already. Even with the Mach 3s, which were designed to add siginificant comfort to a pocket cruiser, the boat had to sail well first, or they wouldn't desing it.

The kit and directions, as well as the support from B&B and here in the forum can't be beat. But I say you have to really want to build a boat. If you do, and you aren't afraid to ask questions, you can succeed.

The 50% thing is very important. By the way, your batteries should be fused within 12" of the battery itself on the positive side. The size fuse is based on the gauge of wire you run from the battery to the panel. On my Renegade I used a 30 amp fuse and 8 gauge wire. Fuses protect the wiring, not the stuff you are powering. Any electronics that requires fusing usually has it in the unit itself.

92 amp hour battery, aka group 27.

When the mechanics at the full service marina I worked at winterized boats they charged the batteries and diisconnected them from everything. These were mostly sailboats and up to 70', with multiple batteries of all types.

Rowing is a lot like sailing in light winds, it is better to go bow down and reduce wetted surface. I find that my transom is still above water if I am solo and rowing aft of the mizzen.

I toyed with that idea. I think the main 2 issues are that rowing with the sails up is desirable in no wind, which is the only time I row anyway. And the rowlocks need to be out of the way for sitting on the side deck and/or hiking when needed.

Where do you sit? Which way are you facing?

Until now, when my boat is in my garage, which I air condition when working in the shop, I stored life jackets, cushions, anything that could absorb moisture in my house, hanging up.

The fact that the bedding yellowed tells me it is likely a polysullfide like Lifecaulk or 3M 101. That you can peal it off hints at the same conclusion. There is no easy solution. You have to remove it all if looking good is the goal. I am always suspicious when I see goo in quantity on the outside, exposed. If something is bedded well at installation all ooze out can be cleaned before cure. It serves no purpose if the bedding is done well. It is often an after something failed application. I suggest removing the toe rail. Removing all old bedding, physically, there are no real solvents that will help. If you are doing any painting, do this next. Then last, re-install the toe rail with new bedding. So what to use? My bedding of choice is the one that yellowed on your boat. But the white just does not look good a ways down the line. Polyurethanes will stay white, but can be a bit tenacious. And some are "obscenely tenacious" , which I am told is a cool name for a boat. I use Sikaflex 291. It is a little more tenacious than I wish, but the least of the polyurethanes, and it stays white.

I also carry a paddle. It fits into brackets mounted on the port side of the centerboard trunk. For quick maneuvers/ getting away from the dock, it is easier than the oars.

I made a removable seat that fits a bit aft of the mizzen. It was located such that the rowlocks are not in the way of sitting on the side deck while at the helm. The seat fits in a side seat locker. The oars come apart and fit under the side decks when sailing.

I used wire both boats. I did my filets and tape right over them, no tack welds. I heated the wires with a torch and pulled them out with pliers. I find the sanding and cleaning that is saved more than worth a little hassle getting the wires out. I sanded/trimmed the edges of the tape. And then I went so far as to do all 3 coats of epoxy as hot recoats and didn't do any sanding till the end. I hate sanding and will go to great lengths to avoid it except when absolutely necessary. I don't skimp on sanding, but I want to be damn sure it is necessary first. If fairing is needed, it will come after epoxy coating.

This would be my first attempt to repair.