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Hirilonde last won the day on November 27

Hirilonde had the most liked content!

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About Hirilonde

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Charlestown, RI

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  1. Hirilonde

    Building a Two Paw 8 for Trailer Camping

    This is a serious zoom in of photo to show the connectors. (1st photo) Aft piece is L shaped and mortised into the bottom creating a hook Fore piece is flat, is mortised flush to the bulkhead and has a space behind it mortised to allow the "hook" to slid in "Patches" are applied on the interior where mortises are done so that you don't end up with a hole. (2nd photo) The hardware itself is 1/8" SS flat stock cut, drilled and bent in the shop to Garry's drawings. It is bomb proof but susceptible to crevice corrosion, especially if left in the water like I did for 2 seasons. I like that the B&B stuff is plastic. Good luck fiddling.
  2. Hirilonde

    Building a Two Paw 8 for Trailer Camping

    As Alan would say, "it's fiddly". I used the predecessor to the B&B hardware know to early members as "Garry's nesting hardware" for my Spindrift 9N. I simply made the recesses, built the boat, then did the fiddly fitting of the hardware after I cut the hull in half. The recesses were a tad oversized to allow for the fiddling/locating. You may even need to tweek the depth of one or more recesses as well as finding the proper alignment for drilling holes. I don't think these boats come out exacting in dimensions enough to drill to a template before hand. I found an old thread of Garry's, but the photos were removed for house cleaning. Garry no longer hosts the pictures on his site. My boat is in GA, so I can't take any photos. Grrrr.
  3. Hirilonde

    Mistake with stainless steel fasteners

    When labor and/or the money to pay for it was of no consequence I would go so far as to polish the 316 SS fasteners on a jewelers rouge wheel. (we had one in the carpenter shop at work) No matter how good the SS, there will always be some crevice corrosion. Polishing is another step to filling in the crevices. For my own boat I would go with Mike's suggestion to use bronze. I like green. I don't buy anything from big box stores rattus, even for my house, never mind my boat. "Real" full service hardware stores usually stock good fasteners, or at least can order them for you. https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/main.do is my main go to if I don't already have a better source for something like this.
  4. Hirilonde

    Short Shot vs. Reef - Durability Test

    It is a must do for me on all boat projects that every exposed corner in/on a boat be softened if not rounded over.
  5. Hirilonde

    Core Sound 17 Mk 1 for sale in Melbourne, Australia

    Decisions, decisions, decisions, I don't know we deal with it.
  6. Hirilonde

    Ocracoke 256 hull #2 Build

    The more perpendicular to the sun, the more abuse it takes. Small radius rounds and corners go first. I'll be curious to hear from people who use such stuff a few years down the road. The repair process is what I am skeptical about. It has a nice "wow factor" to start with.
  7. Hirilonde

    STILL ON-->B&B Messabout 2018

    Nice pictures roam! Pretty boats! Probably my favorite part of visiting the forum is just looking at pretty pictures.
  8. Hirilonde

    Polycarbonate or Arcylic?

    It used to be that acrylics were just not strong enough, so their scratch, yellow resistance didn't add up high enough. It is no longer the case. Even overhead hatches are being made with acrylic now.
  9. Hirilonde

    Capt Bones Core Sound 17 Mk 3 #14 Kit Build?

    I have pivoting tillers on both my B&B sailboats. On my Spindrift I use a wing nut so it is easy to take apart for storage. But why would you want to pin it down? I find both stay down fine with just gravity.
  10. Hirilonde

    "Mackinaw Stonefly" launch

    Just got back from visiting my son in Saginaw and we took a day trip to Macinac Island. Nice graphics. Shortly after learning about SOF from Jeff and this forum I concluded I would love to build a canoe. I don't need one and probably wouldn't use it, but think the beauty is in seeing the frame, unlike a kayak. The other reason was because I would want to curve the gunnels up like you did and wasn't sure it could be done structurally well enough. So like even-keeled I too am curious of you could explain and/or show pictures of how you did it?
  11. Hirilonde

    B&B Preps for Florence

    What a mess Tom, sorry about your friend. But in all fairness, it isn't because of Florence, she just spread it. https://www.facebook.com/search/top/?q=river nc nasa polution
  12. Hirilonde

    Chick's Micro Power Cruiser Project.

    If I ever do another boat with a cabin (CS ? Mk3 or OB) I will use a very similar paint/varnish combo. Its just classic. Will probably do more than 2 coats of varnish though 😀
  13. Hirilonde

    Battery set up on CS17

    You may not think it is dangerous, but ABYC does. There is more to a safe shore power connection than you describe. I will defer to them. acreew, I would consider something like Steve mentions if a USB port charging is all you need. If you do go with a battery, then an in line fuse and wire sized to meet the amperage being used to your USB port is all you need.
  14. Hirilonde

    Battery set up on CS17

    That would be extremely dangerous. Only a proper shore power system should be hard wired in a boat for AC, including a reverse polarity switch. If you are charging your battery while the boat is stored on land you can simply use a remote charger and keep your electrical simple and just DC. What exactly are you looking for in a DC system on the boat acreew? Just a USB port? Running lights? Interior lights? Place a fuse block at the battery in line with the main wire to your fuse block or breaker panel for the boat. Total draw expected and round trip length of the wire will determine which gauge and fuse capacity to use. Then each circuit coming off the main will be protected by a fuse or breaker to match the smaller wire running to the plug or lights. http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/newsletter/images/DC_wire_selection_chartlg.jpg FYI, all of my advice is based on ABYC electrical standards.
  15. Hirilonde

    Battery set up on CS17

    Fuses protect the wiring, not the fixture or battery. All wires should be fused at the source of power to it and according to the rated amperage of the wire and the length of the run up and back. (gauge of wire and round trip length) Any wire originating at the battery should be fused within 8 inches of the battery with an in line fuse or breaker sized appropriately. If you run to a central hub, then all lines after it should be fused at the hub accordingly. An example would be an electric panel or box.

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