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Hirilonde

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Hirilonde last won the day on August 22

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About Hirilonde

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  1. Stainless steel is weird, at least to common "intuition". When it stays wet it corrodes. Water gets into the countersink of the hardware, behind the head of the fastener and dries slowly. During the wet period corrosion occurs, called "crevice corrosion". It can be caused by scratches as well. 316 hardware and fasteners is the best solution, but it will still occur. Another thing that can help is to buff the fastener heads and countersink in the hardware with a jeweler's wheel w/rouge. We actually did this at a previous employer's shop. For those who want a thorough explanation instead of my over-simplified version: https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/materials-science/crevice-corrosion I used bronze piano hinges and screws. They turned "patina green" and I like it.
  2. Nice photos, I enjoyed remembering the places. My summer cruise was often Stonnington, CT to the Vineyard and vicinity. It was these cruises that inspired the research and building of my Spindrift as a cruising tender. That was 13 years ago and I'm still here.
  3. My advice about adding a center trim piece is simply to cover the seam, provide a good way to seal it, and hopefully look good. It in no way makes up for any lacking structural issues. Have you crawled into the forward compartment with a flashlight to check on whether the plywood is separating from the king plank? Look for any signs of water having gotten in. Take pictures. As Peter has pointed out, there may be more to this than meets the eye. In my case, the trim piece is epoxied on merely to cover the seam and hopefully look good.
  4. 545 is really easy to paint on and has a hot recoat window long enough for most to do several coats without sanding. But make sure you sand it immediately after you are done applying it. It gets really hard in a few days. I sprayed the outside of my Spindrift with Awlgrip, great stuff when it can be done safely. No way I would stick my head into a Spindrift to paint unless I had supplied air. I used a one part poly inside and non-skid on the sole/in the bilge.
  5. I covered my fore deck seam with a trim piece. Mine was epoxied in place during construction. In your case I would use an adhesive bedding compound and screws. You should have a deck beam under the seam.
  6. You probably mean cubic foot. A cubic foot of fresh water weighs just over 65 pounds. So your statement is at least a good approximate. What people have trouble visualizing is how big that is. A 5 gal. bucket is 2/3 of a cubic foot.
  7. Scarfing is so easy it really shouldn't be a deal breaker/maker. Maybe on a canoe where it is exposed, but even then, a good one looks great.
  8. One paddling place that the "real" kayaks (15'+) do not fare well is narrow winding rivers. Turning radius there out weighs cruising speed/ease. Having used a FreeB in such a place it is a very viable design, even for an experienced kayaker. It is Jeff's only kayak that addresses this. It is wider because it has to be to float, and you just have to live with that for a cornering boat. Other than that, if she really wants to kayak, not just play around, build a real kayak. The boat should fit the need/want.
  9. Me too. I run aground in the salt pond/marsh I sail in all the time and they work well. (inlaid epoxy rope trick as well) Never had one trip hauling out, but it would. If I capsize the board will be down. KISS.
  10. Some times easier isn't the point. If trying to save plywood, then pre-lofting on paper allows for an efficient jig saw puzzle of a cutting layout. Occasionally, a tiny piece fits inside a large frame.
  11. I sat down and estimated what I would have to charge to build a Lapwing for someone. I used no accounting for space, electricity etc., just materials, supplies and gear, and half reasonable hourly rate as the pricing method. Fully ready to go, rigged, painted, trailer, sails, oars, I would need to get $35,000 minimum. I figure a real business would have to get much more. This is why I say you have to enjoy the build as much and the anticipated joy of ending up with a boat. When I was in business my accountant told me there are 2 ways to calculate price. 1. All direct costs, a share of indirect costs, profit = price 2. What the market will bear = price You want to charge the higher of the two, but will only get what the market will bear.
  12. I have the full roach with 2 full battens sails from B&B and like them a lot. I have been playing around with tapered wooden battens getting the top one to curve in lighter winds. I get great shape with them. I have single reefing and put it in at 15 kts. when solo. But without jiffy reefing I have had to sail back in 20 with full sails and simply had to sit out and pay attention. This is my 5th season and I can see little reason for owning a staysail. I wouldn't use it. I have a 2:1 ratio on both my sheets. The main is double ended and the mizzen gets the boost at the traveler/sprit end. But to be honest I see no reason not to have only one end on the main as well and get the ratio with blocks. Having the swivel block/cleat slightly off center is kind of like the centerboard. When you realize it doesn't matter in function you stop being bothered by the asymmetry of it. I made such a sail bag. It holds both of my sails flaked with battens in. Definitely a good route to go.
  13. I don't know anything about spraying paint. So no comment there. But I sure would dull that spear at the bow.
  14. Biscuits are for interior work. You want to use a spline and epoxy. If the end of the boards show, use a blind spline where the groove does not exit either end.As for steaming, kiln dried does not steam well, and the rule of thumb is 1 hour per inch. Not sure what you mean by "curl up'? Did the whole hatch distort as a unit? Another thought is to glue the boards for an' aft instead of across. Cover the hatch opening in plastic and glue the boards up in place following the slight curve. Then scribe and cut the frame to fit.
  15. Or use a strip of frp and forget about grain 😉
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