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Hirilonde last won the day on March 26

Hirilonde had the most liked content!

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About Hirilonde

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  • Birthday January 1

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    Cape Town, Western Cape, South Africa

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  1. I built birdsmouth masts of Douglas Fir for my Lapwing. They are a little heavier than aluminum, and IMO look stunning. I found Sitka, DF and Alaskan Yellow Cedar all meet the strength standards for the design Graham included in my plans. Sitka is hard to find and expensive, but the best choice for weight and fastener holding. Alaskan Yellow Cedar is next in weight and equal in fastener holding. DF is heaviest and also good for holding fasteners. It is also the cheapest in most areas. I used DF, couldn't get Sitka and ALC was considerably more money. Due to weight I wish I had used ALC, but not going to lose sleep over it now. The Lapwing specs call for staves 3/4" thick by 1/14" tapered to 3/4", which creates a 3" OD mast tapered to 2". Do your plans include the specs for birdsmouth? I found the 2 hardest parts of the process to be tapering the staves and assembly of 8 pieces in on shot. I tapered the staves free hand on my table saw after the birdsmouth detail was done. I then dressed that surface with a hand plane. I made the taper lines with a chalk line after clamping the staves true to 3 saw horses. There has to be a better way, but it worked. For assembly I made 2 half round concave forms for my saw horses to act as a mold to hold the pieces as I assembled them. Make your epoxy mix on the thick side and slobber both the square edge and the birdsmouth. You do not want any voids. Getting the last two staves, all slobbered with epoxy together was amusing to say the least. I used short pieces of line with loops in one end to tighten and hold the thing together. One line every 8" or so. Hose clamps are better, but I am a cheap skate. What a mess, both me and the work area. Plan accordingly. Make your mast a little long and then dress and plug the ends. Save both end cut offs to impress your friends. I cut doughnuts from each end to save. My desk top comp is in storage until I can go house hunting, delayed by COVID 19 after my 3 month trip to Africa. So it may be a while before I can show pictures of anything. I think the process was worth it. Your boat won't sail any better but it will look beautiful and lead to another well deserved bragging point. Make sure to summon up all of your patience before beginning, you will need it. Best to you in your endeavor.
  2. The fact that you didn't mention that your help was in your household is what inspired me to reply at all. Glad to read your explanation. Staying busy is key during this time, and we probably all agree working on a boat is the best way to do that there is. But I do think it is arrogant to say we need god's blessing. Some of us don't believe he/she/it even exists. We are a diverse and multi-cultural group who may have nothing in common but a love for all things boat. The only way to have religious freedom is to have freedom from religion. I will end with my favorite scripture: Matthew 6:5-6
  3. "Those who are remembered will live on forever" No better sentence of memorial could be said.
  4. Shouldn't your "extra help" stay quarantined also? And if god blessed America wouldn't it have been better to not let COVID 19 happen at all? And just as an aside, this is an international forum. If you are going to tell your god to bless people, it should be all member of all countries.
  5. What about a stopper block insert for sailing? Definitely have to retrieve board all the way to haul onto traliler.
  6. Mini 6.5s are required to paint their rudders and canting keel bright orange for easy spotting when capsized. Something to consider if you are sailing off shore or in races like the Everglades Challenge.
  7. With a conventional boom, you have a tack connection that is a separate piece of hardware. What about a guide for the down haul through a fairlead so that it acts similarly? That leaves just the peak slide/lug/slug/car to worry about. I had considered in in mast block instead of the hardware block we all use. But this only helps with a full sail, not reefed. I have no issue, but will consider adding a doubling car if it ever seems a prudent idea.
  8. I don't think I would trust even epoxy gluing these joints. With all of the twisting the joints deal with even epoxy would crack and come apart. I wouldn't ever dream of using screws.
  9. Camping has only 1 season. January through December. Not waiting required. When people asked why I would go backpacking in the White Mountains in winter I told them, no bugs. Boating on the other hand has a season. Solid water is hard on boats.
  10. Hmmm, so what does he sound like if he uses VHF to make a non-emergency call?
  11. I tried to find it there before I made my post. That is a great price, grab it.
  12. Wow, I went to Sherwin Williams and told them the same story. They recommended their oil based porch and deck enamel and told me they could mix it in any of the bazillion colors offered and would color match if I had a sample. It is what I use when the basics offered by Rustoleum won't foot the bill. My boats still float. I did 3 coats, though some say 2 is usually enough. I thin the first one and not the last 2. Paint companies today are quite good at producing to the proper viscosity. I don't mess unless I am using the paint as a primer and want additional penetration.
  13. Weird, I checked Jeff's site for plans, never saw a Flyfisher, but knew B&B had one. Live and learn
  14. I was tempted to use a rope fendering as well. And yeah, I think yours looks good too. In the end I concluded that I would likely be a clutz coming up and boarding my Renegade and I spent way too much time completely refinishing the top sides on her. In practice, I discovered that I was correct about being a clutz boarding. So many possibilities and damned because they are all related.
  15. Ah, good, more pictures. I didn't comment was because I didn't know which boat, or even really the full extent of the problem. No matter what, I would remove the old ones. Anything you could cobble together without doing so would be less than confidence inspiring. Using screws and epoxy together doesn't add up. Using screws as clamps to squoosh things together and hold them while curing never hurts. The only instance I can think of where both contribute is for things like outwales. Good screw fastening keeps the end from pealing away better than epoxy. So I always screw the ends and epoxy the whole thing. If you built according to speck, I see no reason to make them bigger, your issue was some kind of bonding failure. If you didn't build to spec, well, maybe you just found the problem. Clean the mating surfaces. Clean the mating surfaces. And then clean the mating surfaces. I would venture that not doing so, or insufficiently doing so is almost always the problem. Since flexing is an issue, nothing holds like bolts or glass tabbing both sides. But what ever you do, remove the old ones and start again.
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