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Hirilonde last won the day on October 2

Hirilonde had the most liked content!

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About Hirilonde

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  1. I never tried, so I have nothing to add on the through wood part. I was just commenting that the angle issue might be dealt with by the choice of transducer. Personally, through hull doesn't bother me. They come with plugs as well as the ducer, and keep a wooden damage control plug handy. Plumbing through hulls with poor or no seacock are what scare me.
  2. Some transducers are designed to be placed on an angle. And they have a range that they work in. There might be a simpler solution.
  3. Red is down haul and black is snotter? So your down haul is direct haul? (no advantage) I think you will find the extra block to come back up adds some friction. Hopefully not too much, it is a tidy install. You can always add a pad eye and make your down haul 2:1 without disturbing your new feeds. I did on my Lapwing.
  4. Hey Adrian, and welcome The Baltic Birch plywood available in the US from your neighborhood is great stuff. I have used it for cabinets and the frames of SOF kayaks (see Kudzu section of forums) It is really heavy compared to Okoume. I have never really tried to torture it into the shapes needed for B&B boats, but I bet it is hard to do, if possible. Our Poplar core Birch faced cabinet plywood I would never use for a boat. I know nothing about your local Poplar or the plywood it is made into. Yours, if made like the Baltic Birch, could be very fine stuff. All that being said, B&B boats are designed to be built with BS 1088 plywood. Also, there have been some very clever people building some great boats making due with what they have. So I surely don't want to discourage you. Your opening sentence sounds like a determined person would say, and determination along with this forum has produced many a fine boats. I will say that your non-BS1088 plywoods are far superior to most available in the US. You will get some more replies, some may have specific experiences that may help you. Good luck and have fun.
  5. Looks good. Hmmm, are we going to accept FOSH instead of FROG?
  6. What a sweet combo! You may never come back from that first cruise.
  7. I have hollow bird's mouth Douglas Fir masts. I like everything about them except they are a bit heavy to step. I still do fine, but I can see the day I won't want to lift them any more. My next set of masts are possibly going to be thin wall wooden masts with a carbon sleeve epoxied over them. Graham says he has done the math, and this will meet spec. Another thought I had was to build a thinner wall aluminum mast and epoxy the carbon sleeve over it. Would this be strong enough? I figure by plugging, the sealed sleeve and epoxy it would make the mast water tight. Then by bedding all hardware to the epoxy it would end up very light and float. Does anyone with knowledge of carbon, epoxy and aluminum have any thoughts on this?
  8. I can think of no reason what-so-ever to use anything but epoxy. Glue with it, fill with it, fair with it and seal with it. (Then sand a lot, but that was coming no matter what route you take.) PS, I built my Lapwing over the winter in a tent in RI.
  9. No matter what you put up there, it will be ugly. There, I said it. Frowley, that is the least ugly solution I have seen so far.
  10. Because a piano hinge uses so many screws, you could use aluminum screws.
  11. That was my guess. It looks just like one.
  12. ......................And a sharp chine has more surface area and lift onto a plane. Damned because it's all related. Yup, that's a good summery of the situation.
  13. Ah, well, that resolves a lot of issues.
  14. I would take everything through finish sanding while it is a wide open space with few nooks and crannies. I would not prime anything, too much added or repeated work. Compartments can be primed inside (I didn't bother) just before the top goes on if you think that helps.
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