Jump to content

Hirilonde

Members
  • Content Count

    2,964
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    136

Hirilonde last won the day on June 20

Hirilonde had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

265 Excellent

About Hirilonde

Supporting Member
  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Homeless till pandemic ends

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. That is exactly what I did. I didn't dream it up, I believe Graham did. It might have actually been in the plans. I put holes through the quarter knees for the traveller as well.
  2. It is going to be a heavy boat with those woods. But if you think added strength will be worth it. The skin is the weak part, not that it is particularly weak. I can't see any advantage to the Maple. Douglas Fir isn't that much heavier than WRC, well, not as much as the Maple.
  3. I just drilled a hole through the bow just below the breast plate and epoxied it like the rest of the boat. No hardware at all.
  4. The only other thing I would add is that there may have been some grain run out. Though the failure from that often occurs during the bending into place.
  5. I have found that you need a really soft, fine bristle brush for tipping as the paints are much thinner than house paints and such. The obsessive painter will spend a lot and get badger hair. For my Lapwing it wasn't an issue for me. As the boat is ship lap planked in the classic style, semi-gloss and a few brush line was not an issue, but a goal. For all of B&B's other designs this cheapskate would buy badger hair. I have no desire to buy painting equipment, learn a new skill and deal with the health hazards of spraying.
  6. Nothing beats breathing air from some where else. I would love to have a supplied air system for painting with solvent based LPUs.
  7. You had me with the first sentence Paul.
  8. I would add a step between 2 and 3 above. 2b. flush out with alcohol - this will absorb any moisture and clean out any oils and contaminants. 5. Screws and cured epoxy do not add strength to each other. That does not mean don't use them. Some times you need a clamping force in a place you cannot get a clamp. If I use a screw as part of installation I have no issue leaving them in provided I can bung them or fill in over them and then seal. Or just pull them after and fill the divet.
  9. Yes. Yes to epoxy for the reasons stated. Yes to clamping methods and that snug is all you need with epoxy. Yes to protection. Epoxy messes don't clean up later. All I would add is to use some filler to thicken the epoxy. I would use wood flour with a little coloidal silica aka Cabosil and West System 406.
  10. Very pretty! My wife has been saying that she doesn't want to go sailing any more. But that she might approve of us having a power boat. I just might have to work on her to build an OB 20. I will use your pictures as part of my sales pitch.
  11. I glassed the corner from garboard to trunk on my Lapwing. Of all of the B&B plans the Lapwing is the least detailed and least updated. Graham designed the boat for a friend who didn't need any details and when he published them for sale I get the impression he just threw in stuff from other plans. The boat was never intended for a beginner anyway. It showed glassing over that corner. I was glad to hear in Graham's reply that is isn't necessary. Of all of my issues, the centerboard fit was the most tedious to get right. I have had to sand, by hand most of the resin and glass off. Now the fit is near perfect, it slides freely with no play at all. My point I guess is that if Graham says you don't have to for your model, don't. All of the calculating and measuring goes down the toilet, or it is based on the added material, and the rest of the fit is sloppy.
  12. I can't see the damage well enough to evaluate.
  13. If the foot of the sail does not tighten when the snotter is, then the problem is that the mast block is too high. If the leach is loose and and the snotter is tight then the mast block is too low which is what I think you describe. If both the foot and leach are loose, then the only cause I can think of is that the snotter isn't tightened at all or there is another issue yet revealed. When it comes you removing things, there is no bigger fan of preparing for it than me. When it comes to attaching lead ballast however, I don't think it is humanly possible to attach it too well. The most likely time for it coming off is dangerous. No, I did not build Pilgrim. edit: Hmm, you are saying your sprits might be too short in another thread. Sprits too short and snotter not tight have exactly the same result.
  14. I have some thoughts, but going to wait for the photos.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.