Hirilonde

@Don Silsbe I appreciate the cost concern. I even sought out used hardware. I will never compromise on main sheet lay out. It is vital to me to relax and enjoy myself as well as a safety issue IMO.

I knew I would arrange my main sheeting that way before I bought the plans. In any real wind I must have the sheet coming to me so I can either hold it at the ready, or lay it across my leg at the almost instantly ready. Knowing I can dump the main in a split second means I can relax and enjoy myself. This is probably the only detail I disagree with Graham about.

Yeah, like Don, no bottom paint, for the same reason

I am in Morocco, so watching videos is tedious. I found the top 2, full length fiberglass battens too stiff for light to moderate winds. I spent a lot of time playing around with Maple, making them of various thicknesses and tapering to thin from a few inches aft of the leading end back to about 1/4 way aft. I am not usually OCD, but when it comes to sail shape, bah, even the rest of the boat, I am a fanatic. I am pleased with the result. The amount of bend can then be adjusted by the tension applied by the Velcro strap holding them in. If you want more info I can post pictures when I get home.

I added floorboards to my Lapwing in the aft portion of cockpit. Not for support, but to stay above the bit of water that always seems to be present. I never put them in my Spindrift 9. No real need, and added weight I did not want. It is easy to turn the boat over if any water, unlike my Lapwing. BTW, I did not glass either boat. I did not want the added weight. Light is faster.

I can plane my Lapwing in just under 15 kts of wind solo. I start out on a broad reach and hike out as I head up a little and trim in accordingly. I have hiking straps in the aft cockpit. I believe the Lapwing has less wetted surface than the CS 15. It has a rounded hull and it seems it has more rocker. So I would venture that the Lapwing is faster in light winds.

I used System 3 for my entire Lapwing except for the deck and transom which are varnished. Because I stored my boat outside on the trailer at the marina where I worked during the summer, it often had a small amount of rain water in the bilge. This caused some pealing of the paint on the inside of the bottom. The System 3 has stood up well every where else. I switched to a 1 part poly for the bilge, and eventually the entire interior.

I like Baltic Birch plywood for stuff like that. 1/2" or 1/4" depending on what size the items are. I would use phenolic resin glue, aka white, yellow wood glue. It is cheap and more than strong enough.

That would be what I would go with based on my past experiences.

I carved 7' oars for my Spindrift 9. I find them just right. Pete Culler's book says I should make 10 footers for my Lapwing. I find them too long, I think 9' would have been better.

I have done much the same as Don. Grab my cooler with ice and drinks, maybe some snacks, and off I go. Everything else was stored and ready to go. Even added a drawer under the center thwart/partner for the small stuff.

I switched numbers after buying the plans. When I ordered my sails I had plans #20. I switched the sail numbers later.

Take your fenders in you landlubber!

Your assessment of performance is right on. Yeah, the Lapwing makes meeting people at the ramp really easy. I have yet to find any need for an outboard of any kind. I am patient in very light wind, and as you have noticed, a Lapwing can be moved in them. It all boils down to how often do you expect to be becalmed? And can you row that far (what ever that far is for you), do you want to have to row that far? There is a freedom not having power on board.

I use https://www.onlineindustrialsupply.com/ Their product is as good as any, and decent prices. All sand paper loads, especially when sanding epoxy or oily woods like Teak. Using an old sneaker sole helps remove some of the clogging and extends the life of each disc a bit.