Jump to content

Hirilonde

Members
  • Posts

    3,282
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    176

Other groups

Supporting Member

Hirilonde last won the day on April 23

Hirilonde had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About Hirilonde

  • Birthday January 1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Wimauma, Florida
  • Supporting Member Since
    11/13/2020

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

Hirilonde's Achievements

Grand Master

Grand Master (14/14)

  • Reacting Well Rare
  • Dedicated Rare
  • Very Popular Rare
  • First Post
  • Collaborator

Recent Badges

344

Reputation

  1. Quote from PadrePoint's link: Disadvantages: The Buntline Hitch knot cannot be tied under a load and, after being heavily loaded, it is more liable to jam and be awkward to release than two Half Hitches. While a bowline cannot be tied under load either, it is virtually impossible to jamb it up so tight it can't be untied. I will always use a bowline for halyards and sheets.
  2. It's called a non-skid surface.
  3. I would never use any of the so-called penetrating epoxies. You can't fix wood. I would carve out all of the rot, then create a shape that I could fabricate a dutchman for. Then scarf in a piece of compatible wood. If needed I might use a little filler to fair it out.
  4. I would look here...............https://abycinc.org/page/StandardsSupp58
  5. Looks great. I will be anxious to hear how it holds up. Rot and delam certainly will not be issues.
  6. I found aftermarket parts for my surface planer and RO sander from these guys. https://www.ereplacementparts.com/?source=gaws&gclid=CjwKCAjw7cGUBhA9EiwArBAvoiHWmR6WzF9NTnSUH8OIk7yLIGxtM8i9yAV_KL2CmhNkrBuW7l0bShoC-GUQAvD_BwE
  7. Gonna have to borrow this one.
  8. I agree, and you can do that built to Jeff's specs and using 1/2" Balstic Birch
  9. The way we use plywood to make frames is not at all what plywood was invented for. I doubt there is any real testing done on it for how we use it. This being said, we know it can work well. I would think when it comes to resisting the forces to collapse a frame, the Baltic Birch is stronger than Okoume for any given thickness, it is also heavier. But if I wanted to torture plywood into the shape of a boat, nothing comes close to BS 1088 Okoume plywood. This is a lot like the strip canoes people build, always looking for a way to make them lighter. At what point is lighter not better than the strength sacrificed?
  10. I suggest starting a thread in the B&B section of the forum. Some members may not read this section. It will also be a thread you can post updates in and ask other questions.
  11. This makes for one of the best kind of posts in this forum. Critical thinking and sharing ideas, the best.
  12. Bah, Chick just wanted more boats to build.
  13. Tighbond III is like it's cousins and requires clamping and a tight fit to be effective.
  14. Following up to a reply from long ago regarding PFDs. Kayak PFDs, because of the high cut back, are also great for small sailboats, as one leans back against a combing in them as well. If you only want to have to own one, the kayak version seems best over all.
  15. I used solid bronze, drilled the holes myself. I bedded it in BoatLife LifeCaulk as I wanted to be able to remove it easily, which I have done once. The fasteners have plenty of purchase to hold it in place. UHMW plastic would work well. So would a thin strip of hardwood, it can be sacrificial. Some just do nothing and add a strip of hardwood when the wear dictates this is a good idea. I used brass on my kayaks, I see no reason not to use this on your 2 Paw. If you can build it, you can repair or modify it.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.