Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

[Pete McCrary]

Drew -- I overlapped them ~ 1/2". I marked the keel every 24" and cut panels to 25". When I mark the edges when "dry-fitting," -- the trailing edge mark is on the previous panel, and the leading edge mark is on the glass. Before dry-fitting the next panel, I tape the top edge of the [just-fitted] panel to the other side of the bottom. After all panels are in place and marked on top and both sides, I then (starting at the stem) flip each panel over to the side not being glassed (their bottom sides up). Then (starting at the transom) I wet the area that is already marked to be under the first panel (plus about an inch). With the epoxy mix that remains, I wet the top edge of the next area. Then, back to the first area, I flip the Peel Ply over onto the wetted glass. When I've smoothed out about half the PPly, I tell the helper to mix the next batch -- indicating the number of squirt-pairs, depending on how much was left over from the first batch.

Because the beam is so wide, I usually need the helper (on the other side) to hand-over to me the PPly panel that I'm laying on the wetted section. Recall that the top edge is already fixed in place (with masking tape). It's pretty easy to just lay it down. I've learned that it can be moved easily and wrinkles removed with the palm of your hands. The squeegee needed for the final adjustments.

The edge of the overlapped panel leaves a small ridge which is easily removed with a scraper. Much easier to fix than a spot where adjoining panels don't quite meet. Hope this helps.

[PAR]

To eliminate the overlaps on those fabric sheets, wait until the goo has gone green and using a straight edge and new razor, carefully cut through both layers of fabric. Next mix up a fresh batch and lift the now rubbery edges, applying goo under them and press them down again. The result is fabric all on the same plane, no humps from the overlaps and a much easier faired surface.

[Pete McCrary]

Paul,...

How would you manage to cut cleanly thru the two overlapping fabrics and not nick the fiberglass?

[PAR]

It's a feel thing and not as hard as you might think, when the 'glass is green and the blade fresh. Usually I press hard enough to cut most of the way through and need to finish  cutting, as I'm removing the overlapping pieces. Even if you do scratch the underlying coatings or sheathing, the wetout of the seam to re-stick them down will easily fill any wayward blade marks. If you cut both the overlap and the underlying piece at the same time, they'll share a common cut line, which is really easy to align. You do need to peel up the lower layer and remove the small bit of cutoff, but a common way to have fabric joints, without overlaps.

[Pete McCrary]

A little more progress ...

Dry fitting the keel batten (anyone know the proper nauticle name?) and the SS half-ovals:

I wanted a graceful transition from the 1/2" ho to the 3/4" one. So I made a yellow pine wedge that straddles the 1/2" ho and would also be a support for the 3/4" one. They overlap one another the spread of a pair of screw-holes. The wedge won't be glued in place, but held firm by the convex top of the 1/2" ho and the concave underside of the 3/4". Of course all will be well bedded. The forward end of the 3/4" ho will be filed down so as not to snag on roots, gravel, sand, etc when being beached.

The edges modified between bottom planks and the transom:

In order to form a sharp trailing edge to the boat's bottom, I framed a trough at the 1/4" radius along the edges formed by the transom and bottom planks. The photos show the results. Any imperfections will be smoothed over with epoxy putty before applying the epoxy primer AWLGRIP 545.

Glueing on the 15' keel batten:

The aft end of the 1/2" SS ho tucks under the keel batten. So that it (the 1/2" ho) can be removed (for installation and bedding after painting) its aft 1/2" has been coated with paste floor wax. The dry-wall screws will be .removed tomorrow and be replaced with 3/16" dowels in each hole. The dry-wall screws only need a 5/32" hole -- but 3/16" was the smallest dowel that I could find. So, the batten has slightly oversize holes. The squeeze out was made into a small fillet on each side of the keel batten. Except for the tapered first 3', the batten is 7/8" wide and 3/4" high. It will be very strong and resist any side-loading that it may encounter.

Next, I'll rout out the CB slot and the openings for the Anderson Bailers.

[Pete McCrary]

Keel batten and prep for cockpit seat backs (coamings) ...

Sixteen little ducks (dowels) in a row ...

At this point only the inside surfaces are to be epoxied (just one coat using Peel Ply release fabric). If it's not too hot, I'll lay on the epoxy this afternoon.

[Pete McCrary]

I thought maybe that I'd skip posting this DUMB mistake on the forum. But a fellow builder may benefit from the lessons learned. At least the "tuition" for the lesson wasn't to expensive. Here's the mistake:

. I blamed it on poor lighting. And insufficient guidelines.

. The plan -- using the "cutout" material already glassed, both sides.

. The fix. Of course, both inside & outside will be smoothed over.

. The tuition. A lost day of progress!

Tomorrow's progress is already lost to continuing "health" appointments. But Wednesday we're expecting cooler weather.

[Drew]

Oops! To paraphrase and misquote - fiberglass and resin can cover a multitude of sins! Thanks for posting. Are you fitting one bailer facing forard and the other facing aft?

[Pete McCrary]

Yes, two Anderson Bailers. Graham assures me that the head created by 3 knots [forward] will "easily" fill the ballest tank to overflowing -- even though the footwell sole is above the waterline. That's a lot better than topping off by reverse bailing!

Here is a photo of the repair.

. Good as new !!

This mishap could'v been much worse than just the loss of a day's progress.

[Ken_Potts]

Very nice!  It's admirable to own up to a mistake in the first place but it's another thing entirely to demonstrate a graceful recovery.  We all do it but not everyone admits it.

[Chick Ludwig]

Welcome to the "Oops Club", Pete. Good recovery. Maybe we should all compare our "Oopses" to see who has made the biggest.

[Jknight611]

Well my biggest ooooops on my build is when I very carefully glued and taped the forward cabin sheer upside down.   As I started installing the cabin sheer, something just didn't look quite right.....  

 

How many .3s will be at the Messabout?  We will arrive Thursday afternoon....I think.

 

Jay

[Action Tiger]

I had to look up that word. Mistake. Strange word. Never made one, so I had no idea what it meant. Har har. Haw haw. Shoot, if I were a lady, I'd be called Miss Take! Hehe.

Pete, you remain awesome. Period. The admission, the repair, the attitude. We don't just come here to learn the technique of building boats, you know, but sometimes the other skills. You are a fine teacher, Pete.

Now, about that whale... Puff? Kind of train themed, kind of whale themed. I'm thinking of how a whale exhalation looks sort of like a steam train... Plus, Puff and Chessy, Chessy and Puff. Either way it sounds pretty okay.

My boat is shy one chunk of glass, but the Queen Mixer decided to open a ghastly wound on her thumb pad. The good news is, mine ain't near as complicated a finish as yours. The bad news is, as soon as I finish my boat, there's another waiting! Tough problems, eh?

Peace,

Robert

[Chick Ludwig]

Gosh! I've made so many oopses that I can't decide which is worse. Or I can't remember...

 

Actually, the worse ones were back in my fiberglass boat building days. Like forgetting to add the m.e.k.p. to the resin. 

[Pete McCrary]

Here's one that should be a warning to new builders. This gave me a big scare !!

At the start, while building the CB trunk, I kept a 2 x 4 x about 36" (measured thickness 1.5") in the slot. Nevertheless, after cutting the slot it was obvious that the width was not a constant 1.5" !! Here's the profile going aft every 8" :

1"+ 17/32 @ the fwd end

1+9/16

1+7/16

1+5/16

1+9/32

1+5/16

1+7/16 @ the aft end

It's 3/16 shy of 1.5" (at the center). That scared me! I first noticed the problem when routing-out with the trim bit: the sides of the left-over center cut-out were not parallel. If I were to build another -- I would have temporary spacers in place for the insertion of the module (to be removed after the cut-out).

So, I dry-fitted the CB. She slips right in with about a 1/16" to spare (i.e., 1/32" each side) !! That's good news. I wish I had a had a little more leeway (in the slot) just in case the CB (or CB well-sides) might "swell" a little.

Graham thinks it'll be OK without trimming the CB. He mentioned that the manual recommended that temporary spacers be added before insertion of the module -- but I missed that. However after having built 8 boats (4 with CB trunks), I shouldn't have needed a warning. As an after thought here is my concept for the temporary spacer:

Next I'll finish the trimming required for the Bailers, roundingover the CB slot, and their final edge treatment with epoxy and glassing.

PS -- Robert, I like "Puff" as a name for "Chessie's" mascot !!

[Drew]

I really enjoy being part of this group - thanks for all of your contributions. Rather than take over your thread Pete, I will post an update on my thread.

[Jknight611]

Hi Pete, enjoying your build thread.  I made exact spacer for my project's centerboard trunk, with the intent of removing then while the boat was inverted, just after I cut the CB slot.  Well guess what was firmly bonded to the inside of the trunk. 

 

 

Experience, something you gain......right after you need it!

 

Jay

[Pete McCrary]

Jay: Was it bonded all the way to the top? Or, did you only have to cut and trim it loose near the slot?

[Pete McCrary]

Tomorrow I'll epoxy & glass around the roundedover CB slot [edges] and cutouts for the two Anderson Bailers. Then I'll just about be ready for priming and painting the hull up to the bottom edge of the sheer strake.

But I've never had any experience using any kind of "bailer" (except bucket & sponge) and much less installed one: QUESTION for others who have: Which would be the better choice going forward,

A. Permanently install the bailers now, carefully bedded (masking the exposed parts when priming and painting);

OR

B. Prime and paint now (masking their cutouts when priming and painting) and install after the bottom is finished with painting.

Before any priming, I'll epoxy the glass (piece shown in photo) on the routed out bare plywood and (when cured) cut away the central space and bolt holes. Suggestions and comments would be welcom.

[Alex]

.