Hirilonde

The 50% thing is very important. By the way, your batteries should be fused within 12" of the battery itself on the positive side. The size fuse is based on the gauge of wire you run from the battery to the panel. On my Renegade I used a 30 amp fuse and 8 gauge wire. Fuses protect the wiring, not the stuff you are powering. Any electronics that requires fusing usually has it in the unit itself.

92 amp hour battery, aka group 27.

When the mechanics at the full service marina I worked at winterized boats they charged the batteries and diisconnected them from everything. These were mostly sailboats and up to 70', with multiple batteries of all types.

Rowing is a lot like sailing in light winds, it is better to go bow down and reduce wetted surface. I find that my transom is still above water if I am solo and rowing aft of the mizzen.

I toyed with that idea. I think the main 2 issues are that rowing with the sails up is desirable in no wind, which is the only time I row anyway. And the rowlocks need to be out of the way for sitting on the side deck and/or hiking when needed.

Where do you sit? Which way are you facing?

Until now, when my boat is in my garage, which I air condition when working in the shop, I stored life jackets, cushions, anything that could absorb moisture in my house, hanging up.

The fact that the bedding yellowed tells me it is likely a polysullfide like Lifecaulk or 3M 101. That you can peal it off hints at the same conclusion. There is no easy solution. You have to remove it all if looking good is the goal. I am always suspicious when I see goo in quantity on the outside, exposed. If something is bedded well at installation all ooze out can be cleaned before cure. It serves no purpose if the bedding is done well. It is often an after something failed application. I suggest removing the toe rail. Removing all old bedding, physically, there are no real solvents that will help. If you are doing any painting, do this next. Then last, re-install the toe rail with new bedding. So what to use? My bedding of choice is the one that yellowed on your boat. But the white just does not look good a ways down the line. Polyurethanes will stay white, but can be a bit tenacious. And some are "obscenely tenacious" , which I am told is a cool name for a boat. I use Sikaflex 291. It is a little more tenacious than I wish, but the least of the polyurethanes, and it stays white.

I also carry a paddle. It fits into brackets mounted on the port side of the centerboard trunk. For quick maneuvers/ getting away from the dock, it is easier than the oars.

I made a removable seat that fits a bit aft of the mizzen. It was located such that the rowlocks are not in the way of sitting on the side deck while at the helm. The seat fits in a side seat locker. The oars come apart and fit under the side decks when sailing.

I used wire both boats. I did my filets and tape right over them, no tack welds. I heated the wires with a torch and pulled them out with pliers. I find the sanding and cleaning that is saved more than worth a little hassle getting the wires out. I sanded/trimmed the edges of the tape. And then I went so far as to do all 3 coats of epoxy as hot recoats and didn't do any sanding till the end. I hate sanding and will go to great lengths to avoid it except when absolutely necessary. I don't skimp on sanding, but I want to be damn sure it is necessary first. If fairing is needed, it will come after epoxy coating.

This would be my first attempt to repair.

@Andy B My deck triple fair leads are made of Teak and all I did was varnish. I considered making sleeves out of copper tubing, but haven't really had the need. I did this for the halyard on my Spindrift instead of a block. As I have a luff sleeve. the only real use for the halyard is reefing, and as it is a small mast/sail combo, it works fine raising and lowering for reef and full sail. Oooh, bronze, I am jealous!

And the epoxy didn't accomplish anything. It was covered in waterproofing with UV protection.

No it didn't. Your varnish protected the epoxy. And if you had let the varnish go, you would have had damaged epoxy. The epoxy would be far more work to repair than varnish.

I don't think I would epoxy. I have a small yellowed spot on my transom of epoxy. I am afraid to try and sand it off as I might go through the outer veneer and totally ruin my transom.

I never epoxy wood (just plywood). I can think of nothing to gain doing so. I did epoxy the Sapelle plywood deck and transom of my Lapwing before varnish, but not so sure it really helps any. if the varnish is not kept up, the UV will get to the epoxy and yellow it. Repairing this really sucks.

No, I ended up building a swivel ring to make stepping easier. I have yet to use it. I am 3 weeks out from total hip replacement surgery, so haven't sailed in a while. Hoping to try the new method out this fall or winter.

I like unique and meaningful names. I went through a soul searching to come up with mine, it was fun. I chose Uinen. She is the protector of inland waterways in Middle Earth. Tolkien mythology. You're having fun getting the boat in shape. I say building or refitting a boat has to be fun or you need another hobby. Bet you can't wait to sail. Keep having fun, that is what it is all about.

Brass, bronze and stainless steel are all close on the galvanic scale. I used SS screws for my solid half oval bronze chafe strip along the keel of both of my boats. if you are going to use screws, I would not use 4200 or anything related. Screws and glue do not reinforce each other. I used polysulfide bedding and screws. I can take mine off if I need to. 4200 is obscenely tenacious.

@Andy B You can route the number into a piece of wood and epoxy it into the boat in some out of the way place where it can still be viewed, like in a locker.

You seem to be busy already, but I highly recommend a tilt up tiller. If I have company in the aft cockpit, I can duck under the tiller tacking. It also allow access to my aft hatch.

Not sure what went wrong, but here.

I would use one screw to locate it properly and snug it down just enough to get squeeze out of the epoxy all around. When cured I would pull the screw and fill all the holes with epoxy, or counter bore the holes and bung using epoxy. You mention cleaning and sanding, this cannot be over done, it is the key.

Do you mean the piece that the but of the mast fits into? If so, it is called the step, or mast step. Mine has no screws, it is simply epoxied in place. Some choose to use a screw to test the location first. Once it is deemed in place, the screw locates it for the epoxy job, and then is removed and the hole filled. Screws and glue do not reinforce each other. If there is a force great enough to break the epoxy then the screws will almost surely fail immediately after.