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Hirilonde

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Everything posted by Hirilonde

  1. I did my bushings in stages, measuring after the epoxy set, but not fully cured, until they were the correct size. I hate sanding any more than I have to and more than having to add wraps.
  2. The removable seat is for facing aft. If I wanted to face forward I would use the aft seat/flotation. It is slightly aft of perfect, but not so much that you would notice. It is located fore/aft exactly where I sit solo sailing, just aft of the middle thwart/mast partner. I wanted it to work with the masts still in place. And it works with the sails still raised, though for long distance I would take them down. Lubberly would be using an outboard.
  3. I am still pleased with the removable seat, the location and design of the rowlocks and the oars in general. I think I would make them 9' instead of the 10' Pete Culler's formula resulted in. I am still happy with the carbon fiber connection ferrules from Duckworks. I also have a canoe paddle mounted to the side of the centerboard trunk for use near the dock. It is quick and easy to access and use. That, and the fact that it is wooden and gave me another project to do after the boat was done. I find making paddles and oars very satisfying.
  4. I use my tiller extension on my Spindrift and Lapwing every time I go sailing, regardless of wind speed. The only time I remove them is to varnish.
  5. But does it float? Looks great, now the 2nd part of the fun.
  6. LOL, yeah. Was trying to condense what they do to a single sentence. This is the set I have................https://hardwickandsons.com/products/w-l-fuller-8-countersink-drill-set
  7. When I build a traditional plank on frame boat I use bronze wood screws with a frearson drive. I use my Fuller combination counter sink, clearance and pilot tapered bits adjusted to depth.
  8. Epoxy is very brittle and hard compared to wood, and it has no longitudinal strength like wood. If the stringers didn't break bending them, they would likely bend less than fair at these repairs. Either cut out the holes and scarf the pieces to get the length, or buy new wood is what I would do.
  9. 23 lbs? Mine weighs 32. Looks good, time to have fun. OK, building is fun too, time for different fun.
  10. Or buy a tapered bit designed just for screws.
  11. A pilot hole should be the diameter of the shank of the screw, not including the threads. In really hard woods, maybe even a tad larger. It not only makes puting in the screw easier, it reduces the compression the screw applies to the wood around it. This reduces the chances of a split occuring and allows the threads to cut into the wood better. It also reduces fastener fatigue. This is when screws damage the wood to the point they hold far less than they should/could.
  12. Fir plywood has few plies compared to BS 1088 Okoume, Meranti or Sapele. The plies in Fir have gaps in some layers. The wood does not torture in shape as well. There is actually quite a list.
  13. I had to make my 3 hole mast base plate for my Spindrift. I cut it out of a piece of stainless sheet stock.
  14. Kennnee, coming to another Messabout is on my list, but not this year. I attended the 1st one. I have thought about towing Uinen to one, but I don't really need that adventure at this point in my life. The internet has made the world smaller, but doesn't help us drag our boats around the country. Too bad our Lapwings are sooooo far from NC. I would love to see yours, show mine off, and compare builds.
  15. I did a couple wooden counter tops. In one case I just oiled the oak counter I made out of flooring shorts. It was now a 3 foot wide cutting board. It was still in use in my house when I sold it 36 years later. No one like varnish more than me, no one! (note exclamation mark here too) But for counter tops I use polyurhane. It is much harder than real varnish. And since UV damage is quite unlikely, repairs won't be an issue. Repairing UV damaged poly is a PITA. Some day they will probably invent the permanent bomb proof clear coat for wood. That day has yet to come.
  16. I like varnish, real varnish on just about everything wood! (note the explamation mark) Bristol Finish is a clear 2 part LPU. I despise the stuff for a couple reasons. It is harder to repair than 1 part polyurethanes, and they are a PITA. The gloss comes from isocyanates, like in solvent based LPU paints, so there is a health issue. Brushing it is risky, spraying it is outright dangersous without supplied air and a suit.
  17. hey Steve, You might want to start this thread in the B&B section of this forum. All those who document their B&B builds do it there. You will get lots of help and answers/ideas. I built a 9 Nesting, so the numbers you quote mean nothing to me. I can tell you that the bow, when nested is above the transom. So if that is where you are measuring from to conclude it doesn't seem to fit, I would not be alarmed.
  18. The rub rails on my Lapwing are made of short pieces scarfed. If you do a nice 8:1 scarf, I see no issues.
  19. Looks like it is for a bungee chord coming from a cover or dodger.
  20. I get the impression the Amanda was designed for its simplicity in building, specifically for the build your own exhibit at the WoodenBoat Show at Mystic Seaport. The participants can build the basic shell in the 3 days of the show, and finish it off at home. Unlike the Spindrift, there is no torturing plywood to shape. The folding process of the Spindrift can be tedious and difficult for first time builders. The down side to the Amanda is the bow entry. A Spindrift will handle sloppy waves better, will pound less as it can cut through waves better than the Amanda. Even with the same rig, I would think the Spindrift would sail faster, especially to weather. I would think the Amanda gets up on a plane under power quicker and easier, but will pound more in waves. All around, I think the Spindrift is a better boat, but that opinion is some what subjective.
  21. I tripped over this video, thought people could get a laugh out of the first part of it. https://www.facebook.com/watch?v=457291399753678
  22. He wouldn't need to. With some finagelling and jockeying around, he could use the jack stands to lift the boat off the trailer and keep it there. Then do the reverse and slide the trailer back under the boat. 4 Jack stands, with padding on the plates, placed at bulkheads where they meet the chines, in 2 pairs, would be where I would put them in the end for storage. Give me a lever long enough, and a place to stand, and I could move the earth.
  23. It is an add on. And if you don't like it down the road, cut it out and try something else.
  24. As a kid in RI, they were called Elvstrom bailers, after the designer, the great dinghy sailor, Paul Elvstrom. I have one in my Lapwing, definitely use it. https://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Bailers/Elvstrom_Bailers.php No matter what you use for bailing, there always seems to be a little water in the bilge. Even when you sponge it dry, it reappears. I installed floor boards in the aft cockpit of my Lapwing. I keep a small bucket on a tether, and a nice grout sponge handy.
  25. knee n. an angular reinforcing structure used when 2 members come together at an angle "Nautical Terms, Thompson Lenestey with Capt. Thompson Lenfesty JR I think that makes both of us correct Chick. Quarter knee is a little more specific in this case.
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