Pete McCrary Posted July 25, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 I've worked out a concept for "Chessie's" turnover and/or lifting on/off trailer or storage and/or maintenance, etc. it's a two or 3 pulley system. Paul (PAR) suggested the two-pulley, centerline method. The three pulley method was suggested by [i think] Steve. On Saturday, with help from son Jim, we drilled three rope-holes thru doubled 2 x 12 rafters, positioned over the centerline and each side of the transom. The position of this rafter (along the front edge of the pull-down ladder frame) is such that the bow eye is about 9" outside the plane of the front of the garage. So that the "pull" at the bow eye will be verticle, I'll have a "standoff bracket" over which the pulley support rope will hang. The photos should give a pretty good idea of the setup. Shown next is the outside concept: The next photos show how the bitter end of the rope holding the outside pulley is secured to the garage roof rafters. Note that the maximum pull is < 400 lbs. The horizontal thrust on the standoff bracket will be something like 40 lbs. The rope is about 5/8" diameter. The inside pulleys will hang from loops formed by the 5/8" ropes passed thru the holes drilled thru the rafters. These photos show the ropes hanging from the rafters (loops not yet tied). The position of the centerline "eye" on the transom will be about 9" above the keel. Alan sent me that position based on the CAD calculation of the boat's centerline balance axis (bow eye 19" down from top of stem). That accounts for all the plywood parts but not the yellow pine cleats, etc. With this setup two people should be able to lift or roll "Chessie." The pulleys have a x6 purchase and are rated to lift 400 lbs. Even when finished (empty and w/o masts and rigging) she should be < 800 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted July 25, 2016 Report Share Posted July 25, 2016 Man, you are crazy awesome! I hope I can shake your hand one day. I so much enjoy your thread, because we are so different about our methodology, and I learn a lot of neat stuff from your process. You are great at documenting, too, which is something I've been studying for my own upcoming build thread here. Have fun with the flip! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted July 26, 2016 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2016 Cockpit framing now all dry fitted. Next I'll remove the three deck panels and permanently glue in place each framing intersection. Then glue on the cabin roof and glass the transom. She should then be "ready to roll." Pretty hot here -- 99 to 100 in the shop. No work after about 11 am. But I start early before my honey fixes breakfast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted July 27, 2016 Report Share Posted July 27, 2016 Pete, It was 75 degrees at 0600, the time I can reasonably bang and whatnot. Overnight low,is projected to be 83. I'm outside under the tree with a fan and mist until about 1300. I'll try to go back out about 1800, but it'll still be a gallon of water an hour. I'm thinking I may take a nap tomorrow, wake up and start glassing my boat around 2000-2100... Boat is looking good, brother. The more I pore over my plans, the more I like those cockpit seat hatches. They are slick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted August 6, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 Almost ready for putting on the cabin roof. Today laid on the first coat of AWLGRIP epoxy primer on the undersides of the cabin roof, the bridge deck, and my shelving for the space over the forward locker. You'll notice that I taped off the faying surfaces that will contact the deck and roof beams. There will be a "fiddle" on the aft edge -- like Chick's, it's from Lowes. First thing tomorrow I'll lay on the 2nd coat. No sanding if done < 24 hrs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted August 6, 2016 Report Share Posted August 6, 2016 Keep up the good work, Pete. Ger-r-done. Southern Breeze is anxious to meet Chessie. B&B messabout maybe? How about our Southern Appalachian Messabout next year? And maybe we could meet somewhere between H'ville and Manassas for a little cruise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
celticsailor Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Pete, your shop looks awesome---thanks for sharing pictures of your boatbuilding progress. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Fellow builders and those considering building a Core Sound 20, Mark III. Persons considering whether to build a boat often ask: How much time will be required to complete the job?? A question not easy to answer. But I have information that may help a builder (or potential builder) make an fair estimate considering his own circumstances. This is not meant to bore you -- so skip it if you are past this issue. I'm mostly retired and manage to put in about 2 to 3 hours a day on building "Chessie." I started in April 2015 with the hull already fabricated with Blks 1 & 2 installed and the transom dry-fitted in place. Also, at my request, B & B's schedule was such that they were able to fabricate [for me] both the main and mizzen masts. This has saved me considerable time. From April 2015 I've worked almost daily EXCPET for a total of about 10 weeks that had to be devoted to family matters and semi-retirement work requirements. Originally, I had hoped that if I could put in 4 to 5 hours daily, then I could have her ready for the October 2015 Mess-about. It just wasn't possible. Now, I have diminishing expectations of having her [at least] in her underwire for this year's Mess-about at the end of October -- about 2.5 months from now. I'm still hopeful, but not overly confident. That's because I made a list of remaining tasks: BEFORE-TURNOVER TO-DO LIST (made list on August 1, 2016) ... Approximate sequence .. ___ Foredeck beams -- trim, glue in place. ___ Roof beams under foredeck -- trim , glue to side panels. ___ Fab temporary support column at Blk 2. ___ Cabin roof: __ permanently glue down cabin roof; when cured, __ remove plywood material from the hatch openings. ___ Transom: __ prep edges all around, __ apply glass & epoxy. ___ Install transom "bow" eyes; OR, a centerline "rollover bracket." ___ Install pulleys for turnover lifting rig. Do this whenever HELP is available. ___ Design and fabricate "cradle" for inverted hull. ___ CenterBoard: __ complete the CB rigging, __ sand, glass the CB & its weight. ___ Remove tabernacle. MAKE HER "BOTTOMS UP" !! ___ Bow eye: __ Remove, __ Replace (just before next rollover). ___ Permanently mark top & bottom of waterline boot. ___ Glass & fair all surfaces; then __ prime & paint waterline boot on sides of hull, __ install CB & both Anderson Bailers, __ Fab both keel battens; then __ permanently glue to keel, __ bed both half-ovals to keel battens. __ prime and paint the transom and also the hull (but [paint] only above the waterline just "up to" the sheer). __ paint the waterline boot on the transom. __ IF the bottom is to be painted, do it now. MAKE HER "RIGHT-SIDE-UP" !! ___ Photograph her and apply for Hull ID Nr and Virginia Registration Numbers. ___ Replace tabernacle (permanently). ___ Foredeck: __ fab stem knee, __ install foredeck, __ install anchor roller. ___ Complete & install cockpit hatch tops. ___ Neat epoxy undersides of cockpit coamings and caps. ___ Install cockpit coamings and caps. ___ Assemble cabin roof components: __ forward hatch w/ solar panel, __ garage, __ companionway hatch __ fab the drop boards. ___ Fab & install toe rails. ___ Rub rails: __ bed & screw in-place the wood rails, __ bed the half-ovals. ___ Glue down footwell sole. ___ Glue down ballast tank top under bridge deck. ___ __ glue down cockpit decking, roundover footwell & motorwell edges. ___ Mizzen: __ fab & install the partner and thwart, __ install heel (setting rake at 2 degrees). ___ Fab sprit booms. ___ Prime & paint: topsides, decks, roof, rudder/tiller, sprit booms. Etc. ___ Install portholes. ___ Road-transport requirements: __ main & mizzen masts cradles, __ design trailer / boat interface, __ fabricate trailer bunks & rollers, __ load boat on trailer: __ road test, weigh & determine "tongue weight" (before Sea Trials), __ design & fab off-trailer storage cradle (for off-season storage). ___ Install all deck hardware and sailing rigging. ___ Install all ground tackle. ___ Prep OB motor for sea trials. ___ Design and install electrical system. ___ Contract for cabin cushions. ___ Contract for "dodger." SEA TRIALS ... (October 15 target date !?) ___ Arrange for photo & video shoots ... ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ITEMS DONE (after 8/1/2016) !! ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ ___ Index (w/drywall screws) roof to cabin beams and the sheer inwales -- all 4 corners ++. ___ Remove cabin roof. ___ Apply epoxy to (bare) surfaces of the 2 permanent roof butt blocks. Use Peel Ply. ___ Remove forward locker shelving (over & under). ___ Remove tabernacle -- apply packaging tape, replace (dry fit). ___ Vacuum inside of cabin. ___ Mark level of cushion tops (+ 3" above bunk tops). ___ Remove blush in cabin above level of cushion tops. ___ Tape faying surfaces on underside of cabin roof (use 2" tape). ___ Mark the top & bottom of the waterline boot. ___ Epoxy underside of all 3 cockpit deck panels. ___ Epoxy butt blocks to aft cockpit deck (2) and (1) on the portside deck. ___ Tape the faying surfaces on the underside of the bridge deck (use 2" tape). 8/7 Apply AWLGRIP epoxy primer (2 coats) to: __ underside of cabin roof, __ underside of bridge deck, __ top of shelving over fwd locker, The one encouraging thing about the list is how many things I've gotten done just in the 6 days since the list was made on August 1st. But I'm not going to push it. My boatbuilding must remain fun. BTY, is any of you see that I've left out something essential, please let me know. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted August 7, 2016 Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Good Grief, Charlie Brown!!!!! You just scared me to death! If I worried that far ahead, I'd never get ANYTHING done. I'd be too worried about ALL that was left to do. I'd be too busy making lists. List of to-do's, list of plywood parts, lists of hardwood, lists of hardware, lists of lists... I like to plan one job at a time, them plan the next. I admit that I do make a list when I get right down to the last few jobs, just to be sure that none get forgotten. You are right about "boatbuilding must remain fun." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted August 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2016 Chick, Actually, with this list just 2 pages long, I feel like that I can now see the light at the end of the tunnel !! It'll be fun moving items down to below the "items done" on the last page. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Just my ADD talking.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted August 8, 2016 Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 Oh, no, I think lists are awesome. I can't make them, but I can follow them. My whole life is stream of consciousness, and my lists look like my mind. My lists always look terrible (well, the writing or script is always impeccable) and make no real linear sense, but my wife is an organizing fool. I mean, amazing at squeezing any process into a series of logical steps. We discuss stuff, she makes a list and I have a good tool to follow. Only for something major like the frolic or CS. The rest of the stuff I do can tolerate random flybys. Peace, Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted August 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 8, 2016 I plan to prop up an up-side-down "Chessie" with supports under Blk 2 and the cockpit just aft of the hatches. Here's a sketch of my design concept: . Not to scale !! Alan assured me that the Blk 2 and its roof beam would safely support more than half the boat's weight [at this stage], but I decided I'd feel more comfortable with a little back-up. So I fabricated a column supporting the centerline of the roof beam over the aft edge of the locker. Here are a few photos. . Looking forward. . From above looking aft. . The foot of the column. . The head supporting the roof beam at blk 2. The fore and aft pedestals will be joined so that the whole thing can be moved around on the shop floor. The foreword lift point of my lift rig is just outside the plane of the garage door -- and I must have a way to move "Chessie" back into the garage. I'm getting at least one and often several things done each day. One day at a time -- I just don't know how many more will be needed. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted August 12, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Getting ready for the rollover !!! I decided that it would be easier to paint the cabin interior now, instead of after the rollover. I just about hate painting! Especially if I have to bend over, reach overhead, kneel, stand on my head, fight off cramps in confined spaces, etc. ..... So, ... I'm doing the cabin interior now. Only the surfaces that will be above the 3" cushions that I will have made for the bunks. By the way, the bunks will not have any lip to keep the cushions lined up on the bunks. That will be accomplished by the cushions themselves. There will be 5 cushions, each with a slight wedge shape. The most aft cushions will be constrained by the hull sides, Blk 4 and the water-ballast tank. The fwd cushions will be constrained by Blk 2 and a 5th cushion wedged between them. There will be no "cording" between the cushions -- only on the edges against the hull, bulkheads, and footwell. Any one of the cushions may be easily removed for access to the hatches in the bunk supports. In the photos you'll see that I've taped off the 3" below which will the be bunk cushions. These surfaces will never be painted. And because they are not subject to UV damaging sunshine, the last epoxy coating will be left as it is. The prep -- sanding, wiping, taping,... Took about 3 to 5 hours. The next day I laid on the 1st primer coat. I started at about 8 am and finished (all taping removed) at about 11:30. Most of the painting could be applied with a roller from outside the hull by reaching over the sheer strake. When finished, the shop temperature was at 93 degrees (high humidity) and the heat index at 107 degrees (according to the radio). Note: they always exaggerate! I didn't measure (or even estimate) the square footage, but the 1st coat required an entire quart. They are predicting high temps the next several days. So I've decided to prep (sand -- wipe -- tape) in the early am on Saturday. Then do the 1st coat (of paint) early Sunday, another prep on Monday, and the final coat on Tuesday am. That's almost a week just to paint the cabin interior. Next will be gluing down the cabin roof. Or, more interesting, fabricating the CB with its 17 lb lead tip which must be available while she's "bottoms -up." Getting closer and closer. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Action Tiger Posted August 12, 2016 Report Share Posted August 12, 2016 Man, Pete, you are humbling and inspiring. I always like the moment paint ties it all together. It looks really nice in there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Getting started on the CB ... Glueing on the Pb casting for the CB tip: . The set up. . Getting the faying surface level, side-to-side. . It's pretty close. . Just a tiny gap at the trailing edge. . Thickened epoxy applied. . Leading edges lined up. Next I'll review the procedures for glassing each CB side. While the epoxy is curing on the CB I'll start prepping the transom for its glassing. Then the cabin roof -- and she'll be ready for the rollover. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted August 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Before I restart work on the CB, I thought I'd let the epoxy at the lead casting / CB joint another day to reach greater strength. So, I took up a "little" job that took nearly all day. Here is the result: The fiddles are presently screwed on. The shelving is removable but more likely they'll be more or less permanent. Just aft of the center of the shelf I plan to hang a rod (spanning port to stbd) for clothing, towels, curtain hiding the shelf as well as the locker. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted August 15, 2016 Report Share Posted August 15, 2016 Summer Breeze really likes your shelf. She wants me to add a shelf on either side in that same area for her portable radio, I-pod, c/d storage, etc. I told her I'll get to it soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted August 16, 2016 Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Put a few weep holes along the lower portions of your fiddle, to prevent puddles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted August 16, 2016 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2016 Thanks, Paul. Hadn't thought of that. Two would do -- at the aft corners. "Chessie" will seldom be perfectly level (side-to-side) and the fwd edge and centerline fits aren't that tight. BTW, that locker hatch "just" clears the bottom of the shelf so that it can be opened all the way resting against Blk 1. And the mast-bolt also just clears the top of the shelf. I'm not bragging. It's all accidental! I didn't even think of those issues when placing the shelf supports. Rarely does Murphy's Law work in reverse. . Forward edge of hatch just clears bottom of shelf. . So that when open it can rest on Blk 1. On the photos below you can see that above the aft part of the locker top, there is open space up to the cabin roof. I plan to use this space as a sort-of closet to hang clothing, towels, etc. My "honey" volunteered to hang a curtain on the aft side of Blk 2. She suggested that it could be drawn apart from the middle and tied off at the edges. It would also hide stuff on the shelf like toilet paper, Rx bottles, etc. I thought it a pretty good idea. . I need a name for my little whale. Any suggestions? Now, all this comes apart for staining and other finishing touches. It won't be reinstalled until after the second rollover event. Next, just three tasks before the first rollover: finish the CB, lay on the cabin roof, and glass the transom !!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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