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Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .


Pete McCrary

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Chessie's the train mascot, remember? Or am I dis remembering again? I do get a lot of sun.

And, for the record, Chick, it ain't all that far. Compared to the moon. I like to keep things in a positive perspective. :) If I get my choice of driving partners, it ain't but three easy days. Y'all drive watch and watch, too, right?

That's all a LOOONG way away fro me, though.

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Curious. Are you going to highlight the butt blocks or disguise them? It might make a nice faux king plank effect the way you laid them out if they were slightly different color.

Either way, you are getting close!

Are you the type I am, Pete, to dally while you work and daydream to the future day you look up at those roof panels while you're reading a good book in a little shower anchored in some cove somewhere?

Gosh, that is going to be a charming little retreat.

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Making progress. This weekend my son will help me install the pulley lifting rig in the rafters of my garage over "Chessie." At this point I'm almost ready to put on her roof. Here are pixs of the "dry fit."

post-4915-0-95329400-1469058138_thumb.jpegpost-4915-0-82988500-1469058173_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-09876000-1469058289_thumb.jpeg An inside view. Almost touching everywhere.

post-4915-0-22396600-1469058377_thumb.jpeg Showing the "fit" at the aft portside corner.

post-4915-0-42366100-1469058470_thumb.jpeg Showing the "fit" at the tabernacle.

I'm getting pretty excited and thought I just might "get ahead" of myself. So, I made this list. Those of you that have done this before -- please let me know if you see a "dead-end" or something missing that later I'd wish I had done earlier.

BEFORE-TURNOVER TO-DO LIST ...

Approximate sequence (start 7/20/2016) ..

x = done

1...x Index (w/drywall screws) roof to cabin beams and the sheer inwales -- all 4 corners ++.

2...x Remove cabin roof.

3...x Apply epoxy to (bare) surfaces of the 2 permanent roof butt blocks. Use Peel Ply.

4.... Remove forward locker shelving (over & under).

5.... Foredeck beams -- trim, glue in place.

6.... Roof beams under foredeck -- trim , glue to side panels.

7.... Remove tabernacle -- apply packaging tape, replace (dry fit).

8.... Vacuum inside of cabin.

9.... Mark level of cushion tops (+ 3" above bunk tops).

10... Remove blush in cabin above level of cushion tops.

11... Tape faying surfaces on underside of cabin roof (use 2" tape).

12... Apply AWLGRIP epoxy primer to underside of cabin roof (2 coats).

13... Permanently glue down cabin roof -- when cured, remove plywood material from the hatch openings.

14... Install pulleys for turnover lifting rig. Do this whenever HELP is available.

15... Fabricate movable platform for shop floor extension.

16... Mark (permanently) the top & bottom of the waterline boot.

17... Complete fabrication of the CB and its rigging.

18.... Remove tabernacle.

19.... TURNOVER !! Then glass, primer, paint, install CB & Anderson Bailers, etc.

POST-TURNOVER TO-DO LIST ...

a... Replace tabernacle (permanently).

b... Epoxy underside of all 3 cockpit deck panels. Use Peel Ply.

c... Epoxy butt blocks to aft cockpit deck (2) and (1) on the portside deck.

d... Tape the faying surfaces on the underside of the bridge deck (use 2" tape).

e... Apply AWLGRIP epoxy primer to underside of bridge deck (2 coats).

f... Etc. ...

More pixs later as I go alone.

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If electing to roll her over with multiple tackles, I'd suggest just two, one at the bow and one on the centerline at the transom. This will permit you to hoist and rotate without having to adjust anything. Simply put, once you hoist both ends up to a height the sides will clear for rotation, you just rotate, instead of having to work the double transom tackle as you rotate, like you need with a 3 point attachment. I did this on a powerboat recently. The transom was varnished, so I couldn't install a temporary eye for this, so I made a simply clamp on the transom centerline, that took an eye bolt. A length of 1x2, an eye bolt and a couple of clamps was all it was. The aft tackle was an engine hoist attached to the eye bolt, which was placed just above the middle of the transom, which is were I figured she balance out pretty well. The front of the boat was hoisted with a come-along. Once boat was high enough I could spin it nearly 360 degrees along a horizontal axis.

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I like that idea, Paul. But I may have a problem with hanging a single pulley over the centerline (at the stern) because a pull-down ladder (to the garage attic) may be in the way. Maybe I can figure a "workaround." Look into it this evening. Thanks for the suggestion.

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The first three items (on the Before-Turnover To-Do List) were finished yesterday afternoon . .

post-4915-0-44925700-1469098279_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-11076000-1469475716_thumb.jpeg

Of course, once the roof is permanently epoxied to the cabin framework, then the plywood and butt blocks in the spaces for the companionway and forward hatches will be removed flush with the framework.

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Three lengths of 2x4, some plywood gussets and a pair of legs, can make a down and dirty gantry to dangle a come-along or tackle from. I can't tell you how many of these I've made over the years, usually just a quick "crutch" to solve a problem, like hoisting a motor out of a bilge, swinging a boat's bow over a trailer, etc. You're a boat builder, be inventive . . . :)

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Paul,...

Upon inspection and measurements, I can hang a pulley on the CenterLine over the transom of the boat if it is moved slightly out of the garage so that the bow eye is about 6" outside of the plane of the front of the (wooden face) of the garage. It will be easy to have a beam protrude out the front side of the garage (at the level of the attic floor) just 6 or 7 inches. Won't need a gantry. Thanks for your suggestions.

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Pete, I'm watching your build with great interest and as usual I really appreciate your photographs and chronicles. I hope you finish by the MASCF as I plan to be there, but I'll also be at the B & B messabout with my S11N to be your photographer!

 

Anyway, I am curious as to the need for butt blocks on the roof panels. Couldn't you just tape the portion forward of your hatch and keep that extra 3/4" of headroom and have one less corner to bang with the noggin?

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Steve, my "to-do" list keeps getting longer. I'm less confident about making the MASCF. If she's sea-worthy, I'll the there even of she just has her underwire on or not fully rigged. I have lots more confidence in making the late October mess about.

Glassing along the centerline won't preserve the crown of the roof when it's bent to the roof framing. The butt blocks are just 1/4" and the edges are softened with a 1/8" roundover bit -- not much intrusion into headroom.

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Jay, I'm doing the cabin roof and bridge deck UNDERSIDES with white epoxy primer on a table before installing either and before the rollover. I'll mask the glueing surfaces -- so that when she's inverted I'll again have gravity on my side when painting the roof and deck beams and the nearby [previously] masked areas. I hate painting, but I'm determined to do a good job. Wish I could contract it out. Some years back I asked for an estimate from an auto repair guy -- but his price was just outrageous !!

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