AmosSwogger

Nice progress; it has been fun seeing your boat coming together.

Good to hear that the pour went well. How did you get the keel into the trailer?

Thank you for the pictures and video Joe, the race sure was fun. By the way, if anyone wants to win a sailboat race, forget about sail trim, tactical buoy roundings, or starting line tactics. All you have to do is get one of your family members on Joe's boat.

I've been rigorously training all year hoping to beat you in the race, and now you deprive me of that chance?☺️ Seriously though, sorry to hear you can't make it.

Coming along nicely Jay, thanks for the update. This design is turning out great.

Nice job Mark, glad it worked out for you.

I agree with Chick (not that he needs my agreement!). I have used plastic resin glue as well in furniture building, and it is a great product, but why use it for boat building when a superior product is available? Even if you use plastic resin glue for some components, you will still have to use epoxy for wetting out fiberglass anyway, therefore putting you right back in the temperature constraints you were trying to avoid. What kind of space are you working in?

My favorite time of year. I'm thinking of arriving Thursday afternoon/evening and anchoring out for the night. Any interest in a short cruise/excursion after the Messabout?

Enjoyed seeing all your improvements; thanks for the pictures.

Definitely the 20". I'm using the 15", and it works pretty good, but it does cavitate unless your weight is all the way aft. I need to deepen my cutout to lower the motor so the prop could achieve a better "bite" in the water. Pete tried the 15" and shifted over to the 20" for these reasons. As far as HP is concerned, 2.5HP has been more than enough for me. It pushes the boat 4-5 knots at 1/4 throttle. I have had to motor up a narrow channel against a strong wind (with water ballast and overnight gear) and it performed well. It sips fuel.

I'm not sure how well the boat rows. I do plan to row the boat, but I do not have oars yet. I plan on building my own two-piece oars utilizing a ferule from Duckworks. I left the coamings open. I do store stuff in the forward end of the coamings.

Finally got around to naming the boat. She is "Larissa", named after my wife who helped build her. My wife's name is Lara, which is a shortened version of Larissa.

I'm stuck at work and you decide to torture me with a sailing video? Have mercy on me.😊 In all seriousness though, keep the trip reports and pics/video coming; enjoy your adventure.

Very cool Mr. Action Tiger. Always enjoy your posts.

As far as the non-skid, I only applied it on the cabin top and cockpit sole. I have found when I get up in the morning, the seat tops are slick from dew and quite slippery, but I am not going to apply non skid there as it would catch on peoples clothing. I just wipe them down in the morning with a sponge. You may want some non-skid on whatever you step on to get down into the cabin. I plan to apply some on my step. As far as supporting the sprit, this what Mr. Graham posted about a year ago : "I cannot tell a lie, I have been using lifts on Carlita. Rather than rig special topping lifts, I already have enough clutter, I have been using the mizzen staysail halyard for the mizzen lift. On the main I am using about 4' of 5/32" line with a small S-hook at the bottom attached to the forward side of the mizzen mast at the right height so that I can slip the S-hook thru an eye at the aft end of the main sprit. The main lift tends to be self centering and stays put when I tighten the main sheet. If the mizzen starts to dance around at anchor I run a line thru the spinnaker block on top of the coaming aft over to the sprit. This triangulates with the lift and mizzen sheet and the system is rock solid. If it got bad enough to bother the main sprit I could do something like I do with the mizzen."