Jump to content

AmosSwogger

Members
  • Content Count

    342
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

AmosSwogger last won the day on March 9

AmosSwogger had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

23 Excellent

About AmosSwogger

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Chesapeake, VA
  • Supporting Member Since
    08/07/2018

Recent Profile Visitors

2,059 profile views
  1. I'm using the two Anderson bailers method. I don't think it is necessary superior to any other method; just different (Jay's system works very well; I saw it in person at one of the Messabouts and it is very quick to fill and empty). Yes, you do have to remove the flapper in the reverse-mounted bailer (hereafter referred to as the scoop). It is very easy to remove; pliars and 10 seconds are all you need. Filling While sailing: filling with the scoop does not take long at all, even at 1 knot While motoring: very quick and effecient Not moving: slow (I open both bailers to speed it up, but it takes awhile). It will only fill the tank up to the waterline of the boat, so you will have to top it off after closing the bailers. I use a folding bucket. Any water spilled goes right out of the self-draining cockpit. Emptying While sailing: need to be moving above 3 knots. I haven't timed it, but it isn't quick. It won't empty the last inch or so of water, but I don't think that is a big deal. One disadvantage is situations when the wind dies down, you are moving slow, and you want to empty the tank. It can take a while. I need to buy a kayaker's hand pump for these cases; I think that would work well. While motoring: empties quickly and effeciently Not moving: only the portion of the tank above the waterline will empty (maybe 25% of the tank?). I need to get a handpump for these cases. I wouldn't change anything if I had to do it again. Yes, you need a handpump and bucket, but those are good items to have regardless of the ballast tank. I think the ballast tank is one the best features of the boat (love the low trailering weight), and whichever empty/fill technique you use you will be happy you have one. I hit some steep chop close-hauled in the middle of the Chesapeake Bay, put the water ballast in, and it smoothed out the motion of the boat. I was amazed at how well it handled the waves.
  2. It must have been a dead calm for them to do that much rowing. As I found out in the informal Messabout "race", the EC22 doesn't need much wind to move well. Congratulations to Alan and Paul; after some sleep I have a feeling they will enjoy attacking their calorie deficit.
  3. Looks like SOS is doing pretty good; as of Monday morning they are in second place (class 4). Given the light winds yesterday, I wonder how much rowing they had to do?
  4. I've been following your build; very impressed with your work.
  5. I'm looking forward to following your progress. Fair winds and following seas.
  6. Good choice, this is what I should have done if I had planned better. Hope your son fares well.
  7. Steve; I epoxied the toe rails in place. I wasn't confident that screws alone would be strong enough because I didn't make the cleat under the toe rail thick enough to get good thread engagment (I'm referring to the cleat on the inside of the cabin connecting the cabin top to the cabin sides). I screwed it down, removed the screws after the epoxy dried, then filled the holes. If it helps I used a bevel of 13 degrees on the bottom of the toe rail.
  8. Hand saws are great; no cords, less noise, lightweight, very effective, and less chance of cutting yourself. Perfect application Don. Thanks for the pics.
  9. There are multiple correct ways to fix this; I would patch the hole now with a replacement wooden finger: 1. Using a file, bevel the edges of the panel where you plan to apply the replacement finger for the purposes of increasing the contact area of the applied finger (in effect creating a minature scarf joint). 2. Bevel the edges of the new finger to roughly match the panel bevels. 3. Clamp a flat board (temporary gluing reference surface) to the underside of the panel. Use tape or plastic so the epoxy won't stick to it in the next step. 4. Epoxy the new finger in place and clamp it to the reference board. 5. When the epoxy dries, sand everything flush (chances are there will be some misalignment).
  10. Steve, my sprits aren't quite long enough to flatten the sails. I would reccomend making yours longer than the plans call for.
  11. I second the appreciation for the packaging and labeling of the lines. When I started rigging I didn't know the difference between a bed sheet and a mizzen sheet, without the organized kit I don't think I would have succeeded.
  12. Enjoyed the tour; thanks for posting it. I think your motor placement is going to work out very well; I think the boat will steer and respond better with the prop directly forward of the rudder (with the rudder more directly diverting the propeller thrust as compared to a transom hung motor). Another advantage to your placement is less (or no) chance of prop cavitation in waves.
  13. I will purchase that coupon from you; just name your price.
  14. Impressive work. Enjoyed the videos, congratulations Steve. Take a day off and celebrate.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.