Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

[Drew]

Wow! Great progress and great ideas. Today I glassed my sheer strake into place against the bulkhead knees. The gunwhale taping is next now that I have check measured everything three times at least. Measure twice, cut once continues to be the mantra. Thanks for your inspiring pics.

[PAR]

I've measured twice, cut three times and still came up short . . .

[Chick Ludwig]

Paul, I've been saying that for years. How can this be?

[Action Tiger]

What about "Grampus" for the whale's name? Chessie and Grampus sounds like a bluegrass duo. Plus, grampuses are cute. Well, for cetaceans.

Peace,

Robert

[Pete McCrary]

The roof is on !!

Helpers Henry & Dale (neighbors) and Annie (my honey). I'm (third from left) explaining procedure before preparing the batch of thickened epoxy. We were scheduled to do this the previous afternoon, but canceled because of high shop temperature (98 degrees). Rescheduled for 8am today (outside at 71, shop 74).

I'd show a video, but I can't figure out how to load it on to this forum.

On the roof beams and inwales I put down a bead of thickened epoxy approximately (1/4" diameter). Small squeeze out around the outside edges. On the inside there was also a nice small squeeze out, no cleanup required. I mixed 6 pairs of squirts (B & B pumps) -- but needed two more in an extra batch. I figured I'd need 8, but was worried that an 8-sqrt batch would kickoff before I could lay it all down. I needn't have worried (temp @ 74 start, 78 finish).

Tomorrow I'll remove the plywood material that now covers the forward hatch and companionway.

[Drew]

Thanks for the pics Pete. I'm wondering why you chose to lay the roof on in one large sheet instead of cutting out the hatchways and using clamps along the hatch rails? I wold think that cutting out the hatchways after fixing would be more difficult than doing it before gluing. I look forward to hearing how the cutting out goes. You certainly have achieved a nice curve in the cabin top.

[PAR]

If you cut out the openings, before bending and gluing it in place, there will be considerably more unfairness around these openings. If you want a neat, continuous roof crown, it's best to glue down the whole thing as a single unit if possible, which will produce the fairest curves. It's easy enough to come back with a flush bit router or laminate trimmer and knock out the openings, with perfect precision against the carlins and opening trimmers, which removes material excess and ooze out goo too.

[Pete McCrary]

With one piece the "nice curve" comes naturally and [the curve] is maintained at the edges even after removing the plywood from the hatch and companionway openings. And, of course, the kit included the roof in two large half panels. I don't know how I would approach it if I were building from plans.

[Drew]

Good tips guys. Thanks, that is how I will do it too.

[Hirilonde]

The same principle of achieving fairness is employed in building nesting versions of the Spindrift and Catspaw.  The halves aren't cut apart until all of the components for achieving and maintaining shape are in place.

[Pete McCrary]

Here are photos of the cabin roof after removal of the weights and hold-down screws. And I have opened up the hatch and companionway. Next I'll perp the transom for glassing.

. An indepensible tool for rounding over and trimming.

Before building "Chessie" I didn't even know about this tool. If you are buying one, be careful that it has an attachment for "tilting" the base. Not all of them have that capability.

I used the tool to trim the roof edge flush and inline with the the "extension" of the sheer strake. I won't roundover this edge because I will have the toe rail outboard edge be an extension of the sheer strake. It will have a small bead along the lower edge as an optical illusion to hide any small misalignments. It will also create a shadow that makes the viewer think the rail is lower than it really is. It will be a robust toe rail, high enough for limber holes to double as tie offs for fender pendants. When I have detailed its xsection, I'll post a drawing of it.

The sheer strake -- cabin roof interface.

I have a beautifully straight & clear piece of mahogany that is (in-the-rough) 2" x 8" x 8'. I've been saving it (several years) for something special. Perhaps it will be the only brightwork on the boat. Comments and suggestions would be welcome.

[PAR]

A good laminate trimmer like that Bosch will be a toll you'll learn to love. I use this type of tool all the time. The tilting base option is a good upgrade and available for most palm routers.

[Pete McCrary]

Here's my concept for "Chessie's" toe rail. The drawing doesn't show the "bead" that I plan to cut (for the full 8' length) close to the bottom edge of the rail where it meets the sheer strake.

Comments, suggestions, etc. welcome and invited. Especially as to material. I'm presently planing on using mahogany. It would be about the only thing that I would finish "bright." It would look pretty -- but would it be too brittle or soft ??

[Ken_Potts]

   Hi Pete,

   If you're going to use the drain holes to secure fenders you might think about making them a little larger.  Once you subtract the saw kerf from the holes you'll end up with a drain hole that is only about 5/16" high and it might be difficult to thread the fender line through.

[Pete McCrary]

Thanks, Ken. The 3/4" diameter holes will not be subject to a saw kerf. The stock for the pair of toe rails will already be ripped to a xsection of 1.375" x 1.25" and will be clamped together for the drilling of the 3/4" holes. Besides the fact that a kerf won't subtract from the size of the hole -- the half-circles will meet at the roof line perpendicularly. For further ease (to a 1/4" fender pendant) the 3/4" hole will be rounded over (on the inboard side with a router) before unclamping the stock. I suppose the hole on the outboard side will have to be rounded over by hand after cutting the angle for the outboard profile. I've always used 1/4" line for fenders. However, the holes will have a length of 1.25". Considering all this, would you still recommend a larger diameter hole?

[Ken_Potts]

   If your fender lines are single-braid, allow enough hole to fit the back splice (or eye splice or whatever).

   If your fender lines are double-braid and are burnt at the ends to stop them from fraying, the end of the line will probably still be a little thicker than the middle.  Your 3/8" hole should still be big enough, it's just a question of how easy it will be to thread the hole.  I bet rounding the edges over as you mentioned will be sufficient but if you have the time and inclination you could mock up a single hole and see what you think.

   Don't trust me - I'm not an expert and I won't have to live with the results if my advice is bad.   Actually, having seen both my work and yours, I should be asking you for advice.

[Pete McCrary]

Actually trying a 3/8" semicircle with roundovered ends is a great idea. And easy to setup. Thanks, Ken.

[Pete McCrary]

"Chessie" is ready to be rolled. It's setup for Saturday am. Here are a few photos of the support pedestals. It went together today. Pretty simple. When she's right-side-up I'll disassemble it for future use.

The last pix shows Annie and me with our first GREATgrandchild. We now have 5 and another expected in February.

"Chessie" is equipped with 3 "bow eyes"; one on the stem and two on the transom. She'll be rolled using a set of 3 pulleys, each with a x6 purchase. They will be set up tomorrow.

[Pete McCrary]

Getting ready for the rollover set for Saturday morning. I know many old timers say it's not such a big deal -- but to me it is. I don't want any mishaps. I'm going with the three pulley system mainly because with it I can manage a transfer to/from the trailer by my self. Same for setting her on her cradle for off-season maintenance or repairs.

Here are pixs of the setup:

My rollover crew will be my oldest son, Jim, and helpful neighbors. Jim is to become a grandfather in February. His first son, Joe McCrary, is a second year resident physician in Portland, Maine. He and his wife, Dove, are expecting our 6th GREATgrandchild in February. Forgive me for excessive pride ...

. Doctor Joseph McCrary, at home, ready for duty.

[Pete McCrary]

"Chessie's" rollover crew assembled at about 9:30 am, Saturday, August 27. Here they are:

Some of the crew: Brenda Wine, Henry Felber, Annie McCrary, Dale Wine.

Jim at the bow, Dale and Henry at the transom.

She's part-way over.

Above: forward pedestal, aft pedestal, mid-ship floor clearance, & ready for glassing prep. The floor surface and pedestal bases were waxed before the rollover. She slides ok on the floor with a heafty push. No back strains.

Dale, Henry, Pete, and Jim.

We were finished by about 10:30. All went well.