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Drew last won the day on March 18

Drew had the most liked content!

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About Drew

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    Canberra, Australia
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    Coresound 20 Mk3 #5 "Dragonfly 2"

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  1. Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

    Very impressive Pete. I think you have set a high standard with some very practical ideas.
  2. For what it is worth Steve, I put a fillet up the inside corners in lieu of the timber quad and then laid double biased tape over that while it was still very green. I also drilled and epoxied quarter inch dowels through the sides and well into the front face. I have had the unstayed mizzen out in quite a strong blow (28 knot gusts) without any signs of trouble. Still, laying glass over the front face can't be bad, but I wanted mine to have a timber finish.
  3. That makes good sense Alan. Your video is very helpful. It looks like it could be safely handled even single-handed so long as no spinnaker pole is being used. Thanks.
  4. CS 17

    Very nice. Fitting it to the boat or a nice coffee table discussion starter?
  5. Rating the Coresound 20 Mk3

    Thanks for the comments to date. I have made a request to Sailing Australia for a class based handicap and they have been helpful so far. Fortunately, my club in Canberra has two national inspectors as members so we have made a tentative date later in the year for measuring. The one issue that keeps coming up is the low centerboard to total weight ratio. I have said that, as well as Alan's righting graphs, I am willing to emulate the righting experiment and take the masts down to water level, but there is a bit of skepticism on that, arguing that it might not represent what could happen in a sudden squall (a la the incidents recently in the EC). I guess some people feel uncomfortable with water ballast as a substitute for centerboard weight. Comments from you guys, especially from Graham, about the potential effect of adding say 100lb to the centreboard mass in the form of a steel plate CB with a heavy bottom end would be much appreciated. I note that the Norwalk Islands Sharpies seem to carry a lot of ballast weight.
  6. Graham, would you get the same effect by shackling the tack of the spinnaker or gennaker to a separate point close aft of the R60 (but clear above the furling line) so the torsion line still operates separate from the lower end of the luff, thus avoiding the need for the swivel?
  7. Steve, I really like your joinery - you do nice work. Something to be justifiably proud of. I used a similar method to Amos, with real success. Suspended the bow with a block and tackle to a crossbeam in the garage and used two sets of tackle at the stern. After raising the boat we just rolled her over "with a little help from my friends" as the Beatles used to sing! We also put a lot of packing on the floor so we could rest the boat when we needed to, and then put her down onto a frame that we had prepared beforehand and clamped to the boat. https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/9779-aussie-cs-20-35-dragonfly-2/?page=5
  8. Rating the Coresound 20 Mk3

    Wow! You are truly amazing. This should b encouraging to all of us. I am about to submit the initial paperwork and will let you know the outcome.
  9. Rating the Coresound 20 Mk3

    OK guys, next question (Alan). I know the CS20 Mk3 self rights from over 90 degrees but have you worked out a self-righting index for them?
  10. Rating the Coresound 20 Mk3

    Thanks for your reply Alan. I will keep you posted on progress. Can you tell me the designed waterline length (DWL) as I can't find it in the plans data.
  11. Has anyone attempted to get a rating for their CS 20#3 to enable club or event racing? I am faced with the dilemma of whether to apply to Australian Sailing, the body that determines local rules and handicaps, for what is known as a class-based handicap (CBH). It is needed to participate in any point scoring racing and seems to be quite a process. If anyone has done anything similar and succeeded elsewhere the details could be helpful to me if I pursue this here. Interested to hear your experiences, especially those who have participated in events such as the Everglades Challenge.
  12. This drink of yours sounds like it could also be used as paint remover and/or to clean up bunny droppings off hardwood floors!!
  13. Rip sawing that length by hand requires grit and determination. Keep up the posts, I love your sense of humor and look forward to seeing this little catspaw afloat!
  14. Steve, I put some of that rubber mat with holes in it that you can buy from camping stores to use as a tent floor, about 3/8 inch thick on the bottom of the anchor well. I just remove it after each trip and hose it off and dry out the anchor well. To protect the top edge from the anchor chain I shaped a piece of rubber mat that I drape over the edge and hook onto my fairleads.
  15. Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly 2"

    Thanks Alan, I also like the tapered drop board, but didn't think of it at construction, so like Steve I have parallel sides. Regarding the size of the board, I have found a neat little stowage area inside the cabin, but this will vary from boat to boat. I really like the look of the design you have made but for now I will continue to experiment with the solution I have done. Providing a range of solutions might help a number of people to find something that works for them.

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