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Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3


Chick Ludwig

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Ok guys, let's get back to some boat building talk. I'm looking for input on a couple of things. (Well, actually all part of one issue---kinda.) I'll explain.

 

The mainmast (Foremast to you politically correct types.) is very close to the bow. My anchor will be hung on a short bow sprit, and anchoring and docking will be carried out from the forward hatch. There is not enough room on the fore deck ahead of the "hole" that the mast foot swings down into to have a mooring/anchoring cleat. (I'm sure that there is a proper name for this hole, but I dunno.) A vague thought is to have the anchor on the sprit at an angle so the anchor rode can come along side the "hole" to a cleat farther back. If I would run it directly back along the mast tabernacle, it would interfere with all of the sail control lines coming to turning blocks mounted on the deck at the back and either side of the mast.

 

Included in these is snotter, down haul, halyard, reefing pennant for the first reef, and boom topping lift. These will all be led aft to the cockpit. As you can see, it's gonna be a mite crowded up there...

 

Any and all suggestions gratefully accepted---even dumb ones.

 

Your boating friend, "Stumpy".

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The mainmast on a ketch, even a cat ketch is still the mainmast. A foremast suggests something bigger is aft of it. As to your rigging, I don't like everything leading into the cockpit. It just creates a rat's nest, so I usually terminate the stuff that'll be used once or twice underway to the front of the cockpit on a cat or the mast on a sloop. This would mean halyards, flag hoists, lifts and ground tackle lines would be out of the way forward, with the sheets and other common sail control lines in the cockpit, such as down hauls, Cunninghams, vangs, etc. You might consider going under the deck, instead of on top. A simple sheaved exit box or turning block arrangement works.

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Jay, yeah, that's what I had in mind.

 

Par, I'm thinking of the terminology as used on sharpies as developed on the Pamlico sound and other places. Anyway, I call it a mainmast and others probably do too. Just like to stir things up. I like my controls on my boats led aft as I stated. I've never experienced a rat's nest as long as everything is layed out carefully like I had on the first Summer breeze, my CS-20 Mk-2. There won't be flag hoists, cunninghams, or vangs on this boat, and I will use the lines that are there, with the exception of the topping lift, often. I single hand and don't intend to crawl over or under the deck if I want to mess with the lines to control sail shape or reef. The anchor will be handled from the forward hatch as stated.

 

Seems like I took pictures of everything except how I led my lines aft. These are all that I could find. On this boat, there was room for the dock line/anchor cleat on the deck directly behind the mast and bowsprit. The sail control lines led from turning blocks on the tabernacle and through fairleads on the cabin top. I think you get the idea. On the Mk-3, there is a forward hatch to avoid, but i think I can achieve the same results.

 

post-1823-0-16685500-1443149025_thumb.jpg post-1823-0-40180800-1443149066_thumb.jpg

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 and I will use the lines that are there, with the exception of the topping lift, often

To avoid too many lines running aft from the mainmast on my CS17 I put the topping lift adjustment on the boom. There is a fixed line from mast top which attaches with a snaphook to a line from the end of the boom which, after going through a turning block, cleats along the boom. There's plenty of adjustment after fiddling a bit with the length to get it right (and also to make it at an easy-to-reach height when rigging the boat for launch). Might be worth thinking about.

Cheers

Peter HK

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Thanks Peter. Yes, I have considered that, but I also use the topping lift to pull the sprit all the way up to where it is against the mast. Then I lower the mast and sprit as a unit and secure them together for trailering. Guess I do everything differently from the world.

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I use my anchor roller for running the line, then tie around the main mast as well. It's worked wonderfully!!!

 

The clothes line was a little harder, and I wished I had real cleats aft on my boat. What I've done for temporary cleats is used pins in rowing positions, or ran line through pin holes, to create loops for a more secure solution.

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Well folks, here I go again...

 

I'm selling the Spindrift 12 that I bought from Scott, but never finished. I'll repeat the ad that's in "classified" so ya don't hafta go there. I had gotten all of the parts, sails, etc. from B and B in anticipation of finishing it before getting my CS-17 kit, but the kit was ready first. 

 

Spindrift 12 hull finished except for some minor details. I bought it with the intent of finishing before beginning on my CS-17 so I'd have something to sail. Good plan, but it didn't happen!

 

All hardware, aluminum mast tubing, new sail with zipper reef from B and B, etc. are included. All for what I have invested. Galvanized trailer is available and I prefer to sell the trailer with it, but will sell without. I'll get pictures when the rain stops!!!

 

Boat and the rest, without trailer, $1300.00  Trailer $350.00.

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Mike, the trailer would be good. It has not yet been set up to properly fit the boat, but I think the boat would do fine just tied down. With my new "stumpy" finger injury, I'm not able to actually work on anything yet. Right now the boat is upside down on saw horses, but I can get it onto the trailer when needed. If you're interested, just let me know and bring plenty of rope.

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Here are some pics. I couldn't turn the boat over but you can check out what an S-12 looks like on the BandB website.

 

post-1823-0-71443700-1443563385_thumb.jpg  post-1823-0-13756000-1443563387_thumb.jpg  post-1823-0-49966900-1443563388_thumb.jpg

 

With the trailer winch stand moved forward and the boat right side up, the boat will be forward and balanced correctly over the axle. The hull is covered with glass, and finish coats of resin are smooth and fair. With very little more work, it will be ready to be scuffed-up and primered or painted.

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Chick,  I'm interested.  When I first met you and the original Summer Breeze back in Havelock I mentioned that my co-worker and I were thinking about building a Spindrift for her as 'practice' for my CS20mkII.  Well all the excitement about the new M-mkIII's have left me a bit breatless and we never got started on her Spindrift.  This seems like the perfect solution.  I'll talk with Amanda in the morning and get back with you sometime tomorrow.  I would send a PM, but I haven't quite figured that out.

 

Sorry to hear about your duel with the saw, but don't sweat the loss of a piece of finger on your non dominate hand.  I've been missing the last two joints on three of my left hand fingers for the last 63 years or so and it's really no big deal.

 

Mike

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Thanks guys. To answer "inquiring minds". I was running a short board through the saw with the blade set at 45 degrees. The far side of the board started to lift off of the table. My reaction without thinking was to reach across with my left hand to push it back down. The board kicked back and my hand went with it. Just stupidity---well, maybe not stupid as much as a bad, non-thinking reaction. I knew better, but just automatically reacted the wrong way.

 

Robert, it was my "spare" hand. Yep, the body will heal. My spirit is good. I thank God that it wasn't bad as it could be. Bad things do happen to good people (Although I'm not that good.) God never promises otherwise. What He does promise is that He is with us through it all. It is Him that gives me the good spirits. Also the well wishes, concerns, and prayers from you guys!

 

To me the worst part is not being able to work on the boat. No way we'll make the messabout now.

 

I gave up on most power tools a while ago. Good luck trying to get my worm drive, but most of the others I don't use much. I got a lot of "cordless" stuff, and a lot of time, so it's all fine.

I did cut my thumb pretty severely with the rip side of my big ryoba saw the other day while cutting a chunk out for a cleat, though, so I'm not sure as its any safer.

And tell your wife to stay away from that saw with a sledgehammer. She needs a torch or a sawzall, or something to do some real damage! ;)

Hope your recovery goes well. 

 

My fear of this possibility lead me to replace my tablesaw with a sawstop saw a few years ago.  Expensive, yes, but I figured a lot cheaper than one trip to the emergency room.

 

Another great safety addon is the jessem stock guides.   http://www.jessem.com/CLEAR-CUT_TS_STOCK_GUIDES.html

 

 

 

Fred

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I've been hearing a lot about those Sawstop saws. If I had several more years of boat building to do, I'd get one. For now I'll just VERY careful with my remaining fingers. No more reaching over the blade to push the board back down, or other dumb stuff.

 

Here is the Sawstop saw. http://www.amazon.com/SawStop-JSS-MCA-Jobsite-Mobile-Cart/dp/B00SAHUO38

 

A video: 

 

I do think that I'll order the Jessem stock guide.

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I've seen these saw stops additions in action and they really work, but now that you've faced the wrath of the blade, you'll be particularly aware of your hand positions, for the remainder of your life. You know the appropriate procedures and unfortunately now know why you need to stick with them. Trust me you will, religiously and your other fingers will be thankful for you newly found analness. Be one with this analness, yes, indeed be the butthead, as only you can apprecate.

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