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Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3


Chick Ludwig

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We MADE it!!! Top on, and the dreaded flip is done. Thanks to Don, David, and Terry of the Southern Appalachian Messabout bunch for help in turning Summer Breeze over. All that worrying was not necessary. Thanks to Engineer Don, it was a "Breeze". We were having so much fun that I forgot to take pictures. Before and after shots will have to do...

 

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I'll have to modify the cradle to support the inverted boat in a level position, but she's safe and sound until then.

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Chick, that is exciting. That is a big moment. I will be not be getting back to mine until after the MASCF, but then I will be able to focus if all goes well. I lost a close friend/business associate and have been in a funk I'm slowly getting out of. Thanks to you and Jay and everyone else who has giving me something to look at.

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In case you are wondering, here is how the "Breeze" is supported upside down on the cradle. (She says that being turned over is making her dizzy...)

 

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Here she is with her centerboard slot cut and all of her corners rounded off. Next step is to fill all of her cracks and holes in preparation for glassing. I like to use a mix of 2-parts Q-cell to 1-part Cabosil for filling. It's easier to sand. I'll also pre-lay a layer of 3 inch fiberglass tape over the edges and down into the c/b trunk. The bottom glass will also roll over the edge. This greatly strengthens this joint and keeps water from getting into the bottom ply where the hole is cut out. If you go back earlier in this "thread", you'll see where I tapered the bottom of the trunk before installation to allow room for these glass layers.

 

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Here is where I notched to give a flat landing for the bow eye to be installed later. Hope you can see it.

 

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Just some unsolicited "advise" from an expert at both napping, and running aground. In fact, my wife and I specialized for a while in stranding the canoe on a rock in the middle of the river. It had lots of cool stripes from the grinding slide across... And you should see me run aground on an SUP!

As for napping, well, I do have two hammocks strategically located on the premises, one conveniently close to my drawing board...

BTW I am an absolute sucker for the raised flush deck look. This boat is going to be a beaut!

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Thanks "Just dumb old Robert" (you don't sound dumb to me!). I often "cat nap" while sailing along the sound or outer banks---at least I did when I lived over on the Carolina coast. My favorite trip for this was from the Beaufort Inlet up to cape Lookout. I never ran aground, but had a scare or two when I'd wake up to find my boat bearing don on an off shore fisherman or shrimp trawler! Of course I always try to train my boats to let me know when we were getting into dangerous situations. Must of worked as I always seemed to wake up in time. May not be so wise up here in the Western side of the Carolinas, what with the smaller lakes with "bumpy" shore lines, and fishermen and jet skis blasting all over the place. Oh, how I'll look forward to a couple of trips a year back to real (salt) water!

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Whew y'all, I'm one pooped puppy. I've sanded all the filler applied yesterday and glassed the bottom to the chines. I like to feather sand the bottom edges before glassing the sides, then feather the bottom and sides at the back at the transom to do it last. This breaks the job down into easier steps. The bottom of the hull is 10 oz. cloth, and the sides and transom are 6 oz.

 

post-1823-0-40066400-1440104758_thumb.jpg  All glassed. I pour it on, then squeegee to control the amount of resin.

 

post-1823-0-59040000-1440104759_thumb.jpg  a closer look at the centerboard trunk slot. Glass wrapped around the edge.

 

The white looking spots are from the Cabosil / Q-cell filler.

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Well folks, the hull glass work is done. It has one additional coat of resin and will get another today, then it's on to the primer. Last thing yesterday was to add the keel. Temporary screws were used at the aft end where it could go into the hardwood frame on the centerline of the transom, and a couple in the cabin area where the holes could be filled on the inside when the screws are removed. No screws were used where they could protrude into compartments that could not be conveniently reached from the inside---such as the ballast tank. Props were used from the overhead of the garage to press the keel strip down while the glue cures. I guess this is one place that it is good to have the low roof. (Doesn't cancel the painful head knocks, though...)

 

The keel will not be glassed, only resin coated and painted. Damage would allow water to get under the glass and promote rot. At least that's the theory. Also, it will be easier to repair damage it does occur. There will be a stainless strip full length. Now for the obligatory picture:

 

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All day yesterday was spent sanding the surface. Today I applied the epoxy primer. Alan (Graham's Padawan, also sometimes referred to as "Young Master") supplied some Amercoat 385 by PPG. I couldn't spray in my little garage, and I don't like to spray epoxy or polyurethane because of the health issues. Instead, I "roll and tipped". It seemed to work OK. Monday will "tell the tale" when I try to sand it.

 

Here's some info.on mixing epoxy primers. 

 

 

 

I know y'all are getting tired of seeing summer Breeze's tender under-belly, but here she is...

 

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The transom will be varnished and the topsides will be primed and painted after she is flipped and the work completed on the deck, tabernacles, etc. The bottom will be painted forest green, and the stainless keel strip will be installed before the flip.

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Edward, I really don't see the need for a second board. The offset board performs as well on either tack. Experience has shown this to be true. It is not so far offset as to lift it high enough to cause it to "loose it's grip" like a bilge board or lee board. As for needing a second board as a backup, the only thing that couldn't be repaired would be to break the board off!!! The pennant lifting mechanism is accessible to repair from inside of the cabin and the cockpit. If the pennant did break off inside the trunk, a highly unlikely occurrence, the board would then hang in a down position so you can still sail. I had a problem like this once in my Princess 22 and had to pass a line around the bottom of the boat side to side to be able to lift the board so I could get into the boat ramp. Once the board was "tied up", I started old Mr. Evin Rude and motored in. On this boat, I had attached the pennant to an undersized eye strap with screws, and the attachment failed. The block and tackle arrangement was inside the trunk too, where it could possibly fail or jam, although that never happened. On the new designs, this has all changed. The offset board is also unlikely to jam from debris in the slot since it is away from the keel line that wound ground out first. I just don't see the need for the added complication of a second board.

 

Maybe some of you other guys have a "centerboard disaster story" to tell. What happened and how did you overcome that disaster?

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Steve, yes. The transom will be varnished and the topsides will be primed and painted after she is flipped and the work completed on the deck, tabernacles, etc. The bottom will be painted forest green, and the stainless keel strip will be installed before the flip.

 

This morning I misted on a "trace coat" or "guide coat" to show where to sand more. Then it's a fun day of sanding. Hopefully, tomorrow to paint! I took a picture to show how it's misted on. I just use grey (or other contrasting color) primer in a "rattle can". Buy something cheap---it all gets sanded off. In the picture, only the bottom is coated. You can see how light it is dusted on.

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Well folks, she's green! Interesting paint to work with. It's too thick to spray with a standard spray tip and you can't thin more than 15%. I went ahead and sprayed with the standard tip---it's all I've got. This color is pretty translucent, so it takes several coats. Each coat takes a long time to cure (dry?) before spraying on the next coat---or it will run (DON'T ask how I found this out...). I just walked around the boat adding coats like I would with regular polyurethane paint. I wound up moving it out into the Sun which really helped speed things up. Then the bugs came @#///*@!!!!! Actually, I like the paint. It will go better next time I use it. I'll have the right tip and know to wait between coats and all will be right with the world. Oh yeah, someone asked what kind of paint. It's Sherwin Williams  Acrolon 100 waterbased urethane.

 

Tomorrow I'm gonna take Turtler out for a cruise just to "wind down" and also give the paint a chance to harden up a bit. I'm thinking Glenville Lake, also known as Thorpe lake.

 

Green post-1823-0-21632600-1441134622_thumb.jpg

 

Turtler post-1823-0-78542100-1441134750_thumb.jpg

 

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