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Peter HK

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Everything posted by Peter HK

  1. Actually you don't need to detach the cross boat line to remove the rudder/tiller assembly if, as in the diagram you attach the shockcord with a snap hook of some sort. Just unhook the shockcord and pull the line out of the saddle/eyestrap on the tiller. Having said that I knot one end of the line to a simple eye screw with a snaphook onto another eyescrew on the other side. Takes 5 seconds to undo. Cheers Peter HK
  2. Re the tiller tamer, I've used this method for decades and it works really well. Depending on your setup aft there is sometimes an advantage in not having the cross boat line perpendicular/directly athwartships. I attached mine to the boat inwales more towards the stern than the tiller eye to allow easier access to the motor and maximize use of the cockpit seat without removing the line (which I have on a snap hook). The shockcord allows for any minor variation in the geometry of the line. I leave the rudder on for towing and the tamer keeps it stable. Cheers Peter HK
  3. I've found drilling halfway from each side works with any misalignment hidden in the middle of wood where no one can see it🙂 Cheers Peter HK
  4. The selvedge is there to stop the tape unravelling so cutting it off might end up being a problem. I find a tungsten scraper while the epoxy is still a little green removes it quite well. A quilting cutting wheel also does a good job. You roll the cutter along the edge of the tape just far enough in from the edge to remove the selvedge. You have to time it well, while the epoxy is wet enough to let the edge go but sticky enough to hold the rest of the tape down. Cheers Peter HK
  5. That's how I've done my tiller tamers for years. I use small diameter non stretch line attached under each inwale with a snap hook so I can remove it if I want to. It then loops through an eye bolt under the tiller and is controlled by shockcord attached to another snap hook. The tension is adjustable with the shockcord in a V cleat. The beauty of this system is that you can always override it as its just friction holding the tiller but you can set the resistance to match the conditions. I first saw this in a book about cruising around England in the 1930's. They didn't have sh
  6. I'll make a couple of comments. Re the sprits. In theory each sail has a good and bad tack depending on whether the sprit is affecting sail shape or not, so it is usual to rig the sprits on alternate sides so one tack isn't all bad and the other all good. In truth there's not much difference. My brother used to race his Bolger Gypsy (which has a sprit rig) against another Gypsy identical except the sprit was rigged to the other side. The boats sailed similarly on each tack- he couldn't tell any difference. When reefing the sail ties should be around the sail only, not t
  7. That is a lot of windage. I’m not surprised they may have had anchor issues. The risk of dragging is much higher and you need a bigger anchor and more chain which is heavier and more awkward to handle. I think keeping a low profile has advantages. Cheers Peter HK
  8. Hi Guys You all must anticipate anchoring in very protected areas or at times with very light breezes to contemplate such a large tent with so much windage. My ideas for sleeping on my CS17 were based on a much simpler and lower windage option. My plan was a battened cover over a line from mainmast base to the mizzen snotter attachment, wide enough to drain the raindrops over the side with a bivouac tent underneath. I have the same lift up floor boards as Graham. My experience with yachts/multis with a lot of windage is that they are terrible at anchor in a lot of breeze. I've
  9. Hi Nick Yes the leeboard just hooked over the gunwale and was held down by a piece of shockcord clipped onto a hook. Here are a few more pics Cheers Peter HK
  10. About 20 years ago I had some left over bits of ply and epoxy and glass and built a simple canoe. I enclosed the ends for buoyancy and being a sailor added the option of a mast base for a small rig. I'd never looked at canoe/kayak sailing ideas so just made it up. I wondered about how to balance centre of effort/ centre of lateral resistance and having a daggerboard in the middle of the canoe and it seemed like it wouldn't work. In the end, after discussion with my brother (the engineer) who suggested the long lever arm of a rudder at the end of a long canoe would overcome any lee helm issues
  11. Well said- bedding compounds work well As far as the keel itself I consider it sacrificial- if it rotted it's isolated from the hull by epoxy and glass and easily replaceable. I'd call it a wormshoe of a type. I used an aluminium extrusion on the keel strip which was very inexpensive (mainly to spread the load from the rollers). I didn't extend up the stem so no one sees it. If you want classy then pay for bronze. Cheers Peter HK
  12. Try this link https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11334-roller-trough-for-a-cs203-trailer/?tab=comments#comment-105992
  13. You might find this link useful https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/bonding-pvc-plastic-with-epoxy/ I've used the flame method in the past with success so far - 17 years. Cheers Peter HK
  14. We're talking about 3 inches here so it won't make a lot of difference to the heeling moment. You can always not hoist the sail the last 3 inches and it will be as designed. In theory in light airs it may be beneficial to get a little higher above the boundary layer into a stronger breeze - but we're only talking 3 inches. As to adding a healing force I'd do anything for that these days with the arthritis in my hand, back and shoulder🤣 Cheers Peter HK
  15. Here's a link. http://bluejacketboats.com/boats/bluejacket-24/ Cheers Peter HK
  16. Empty the garage out and start building the next one😄 Cheers Peter HK
  17. Make sure you use nitrile gloves as most others allow penetration of resin pretty quickly Cheers Peter HK
  18. A guy in Alaska built a CS17 in aluminium many years ago- heavy and overbuilt Here's a link https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/5680-aluminum-cs17-for-sale-possibly/?tab=comments#comment-47874 Cheers Peter HK
  19. When I built my CS17, over 10 years ago now, I got into the habit of keeping a rough tally of boatbuilding hours. At launch it was just under 500 hours but could have been 20% more. This was only time actually building/sanding etc. I didn't include any time for planning/getting materials/sharpening tools etc. Also I knew I wasn't planning on a mirror finish. It was my 5th build so I was practiced. I planned the timing of the build to maximize efficiency in my small garage (only 19 ft long and not so wide) by building all the small stuff first - rudder /tiller/centreboard/masts etc.
  20. With respect to the docking difficulties, was the Centreboard all the way down? While it doesn’t help at very low speeds it makes a big difference if you have any steerage way. Having said that a light boat with a lot of windage can be a challenge to dock in a breeze ( I sailed racing multis for a long time so I know about that) HTH Cheers Peter HK
  21. My first time at Cootharaba was also an Easter regatta in about 1973-4. I was for'ard hand on a 14ft skiff (high powered, 2 crew both on trapeze) There was a small shed for the sailing club and not much else. With the great steady southeasters barely affected by the dune between us and the Pacific ocean and the minimal wave pattern on the lake it really was great racing. Our 14 ft club, by way of double entendre, had made T-shirts which boldly stated "I've got a fourteen footer". There was a dinner in the sailing club one night and a rather attractive 20 year old woman looked me u
  22. Well I finally pulled my CS17 Wildcat out of the shed. It had been nearly three years since she last got wet. Two years ago I bought a holiday home in Noosaville, a beach side town one and a half hours north of Brisbane. It’s just near a boat ramp on the Noosa River. There was just one small problem- the CS 17 didn’t fit in the garage?. Luckily I had also previously built a smaller dinghy (a Welsford Golden Bay Dinghy) and a canoe that can fit in the garage and these have been well used in the last 2 years for sailing, fishing and exploring. Finally we planned a bigger
  23. I don't think you can effectively seal the masts so I put a drain hole at the foot to let the water out. That's how I did my topping lifts, though I must say after finding a good height for the boom I haven't used the adjustment much. Cheers Peter HK
  24. I have one of the lifting style brackets. They have some advantages. The motor is kept well aft of the mizzen sheet so does not tend to catch it. The up position is high enough so the prop is out of the water so you don't need to tilt the motor and it can stay on for launching and retrieving. The motor can be set to different depths- in very shallow water the the prop can be set to be just above the keel depth (and still pump water) so if you can float in the water you can motor. Likewise in heavier conditions with bigger waves the prop can be immersed deeper to preven
  25. Mine hangs over the back a lot more- no need to get the tyres wet never mind the trailer or bearings. Peter HK
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