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bruegf

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About bruegf

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  1. I can attest to how well they work, fortunately it was with my the aluminum fence of my incra miter gauge instead of my fingers. Accidentally forgot to check the end of the fence cleared the blade before making a cut. The brake fired, cost me $100 for a new saw blade and $90 for a replacement brake cartridge, but it saved the $20 fence. You can't feel where the blade contacted the fence when you run your finger tip over the spot, the only way you can feel it is if you run the edge of your finger nail over it and then just barely. I also watched a demo with a hot dog and you could barely see the mark the blade made, probably wouldn't have even needed a bandaid if it had been your finger. There's a video out there of the saw's inventor actually purposely pushing his finger into the spinning blade. Fred
  2. Hope your recovery goes well. My fear of this possibility lead me to replace my tablesaw with a sawstop saw a few years ago. Expensive, yes, but I figured a lot cheaper than one trip to the emergency room. Another great safety addon is the jessem stock guides. http://www.jessem.com/CLEAR-CUT_TS_STOCK_GUIDES.html Fred
  3. Howard was talking about checking a sheet of plywood for squareness (sorry, should have quoted that part of Howard's post), in which case you can have equal diagonal measurements but not have 4 90 degree corners when the sheet has the shape of a symmetrical trapezoid. My point was that if want to know if something is truly square (90 degree corners) you need a good square to check it. or follow the 3,4,5 rule - diagonal measurements can be misleading. Fred Fred
  4. While its common practice to check for squareness by measuring both diagonals, its not a guarantee unless you know at least one corner is 90 degrees. A trapezoid shape will measure equal diagnonals and still not be square. While these are not cheap, they are well worth the money. http://www.woodpeck.com/ott2616square.html Fred
  5. The tools are definitely not for everyone, thankfully there are lots of brands to choose from. The only thing I'll add is don't ever try one, because if you do you'll never go back to the inexpensive brands. I originally bought my sander and vac because of one specific job I needed to do and I agonized for quite a while before I finally convinced myself to spend the money and told myself that's the one and only thing I'll of theirs I'll ever buy. Big mistake, over the last few years I've replaced all my lower cost tools because of how much better these really are. But again, they're not for every one and I'm not trying to convince anyone to buy these, just wanted to share the fact that there are alternatives to working in a cloud of dust. Like choosing a boat, it all comes down to your needs, desires and budget. Fred
  6. Another vote for the Thien baffle, I use one in front of my dust collector. So far I've generated approx 25 gallons of sawdust and have less than a approx 1/4 cup of ultra fine dust in the dust collector bag. I built mine with a side inlet. Dust collector w/ a Thien baffle works great on the table saw, band saw, jointer, etc but for dust collection on smaller tools like a sander, you need a vac instead of dust collector - the hoses are too small to support the air flow needed for efficient dust collection when using a dust collector. I use a dust deputy cyclone in front of my vac. My father is using a Thien baffle in front of his craftsman shop vac and it works very well there. Not quite as well as with my dust collector, but it does work as well as the dust deputy I use in front of my vac. Fred
  7. http://www.bobmarinosbesttools.com/ro-125-t-locct-mini/p/PM571782/ Expensive, but is incredibly dust free, it has to be seen to be believed. The dust I have left after sanding a panel with this sander can be picked up with a single pass of tack rag. Makes sanding far less of a chore, plus the dust collection keeps the sandpaper from clogging, so it lasts far longer than on my Bosch sander. Fred
  8. I currently own an aluminum hull boat and this has been the topic of many discussions on our forum. One of the things that comes up frequently as an "easy" way to limit galvanic corrosion between aluminum and stainless fittings is tefgel. http://www.tefgel.com/contain.php?param=tefgel_infor Fred
  9. Looked at the website above, and happened to notice that they also sell teak. I have a bunch of burmese teak that I bought over 20 years ago, but never used that I'd like to get out of my basement shop. I have 250+ rough sawn boards that in range in size from 1x2x36 to 1x2x60 up to 2x2x48 to 2x4x55 inches. Most are 1x2, 2x2 and 2x3. Its rough sawn as opposed to planed and jointed like theirs is, but would also be a lot cheaper if anyone is interested. I'm located near South Bend, IN. PM me if you have any interest. Fred
  10. Thanks for your insights Scott. I like the settee berths of the PS22 over the v-berth of the Belhaven, but the extra head room is a really nice feature as is the lighter weight. No idea which way I'd go if I decide to build. Haven't ever built a boat, so probably will start w/ a Spindrift just to see what I'd be getting myself into. Fred
  11. Hi Scott, I'm curious as to why you'd extend the Belhaven instead of going with the PS22? I keep looking at both boats and am not sure which I would choose if I were to build a small cruising sailboat. Fred
  12. One other thing no one has mentioned is what tool(s) you use for sanding. I own a number of Festool sanders that have to be seen to be believed when it comes to dust collection. I sanded old dried up carpet adhesive off a plywood floor inside a closed up 32' boat once and didn't have any sanding dust to clean up and was able to talk to my wife in a normal voice while sanding w/ the vacuum going. That said, you'll spend in the neighborhood of 800 to 1100 dollars for a sander and vacuum depending on which sander and vac you buy. I'd recommend a Rotex 90 or Rotex 125 sander and CT26 vac for a small boat or the Rotex 150 for a larger boat. Pricey, sure, but you won't be breathing or cleaning up but a tiny fraction of the dust you would otherwise. The other downside to the Festool brand is, if you appreciate very high quality tools, over time, it will cost you far more than what you spend on the first purchase, as its hard to stop buying them. Fred
  13. Scott, Take a look at the Bayfield 25 for more ideas. This was my first "large" boat and it was very comfortable for 2 people. I think we enjoyed that boat more than any of the larger boats that followed. It packs a lot of living space in a what is essentially a slightly less than 24' hull - the stated 25' length includes the 1'+ "bowsprit". Starboard settee berth is longer than it looks as it has a foot well that extends into the area underneath the head sink. The settee back rests are hinged and swing up to provide a wider and more comfortable berth. I'm 6' and could stand upright under the companion way slide and could stand in the rest of the cabin but did have to bend my head down. The one downside to the ample head room in the cabin is the dog house is a bit tall which made it hard to see over while seated in the cockpit. http://sailboatdata.com/viewrecord.asp?class_id=487 Fred
  14. Ok, you got me there :-), sanding is still a pain, but it is less of a pain than it used to be. Fred
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