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Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3


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Here is Sumer Breeze with her new ownwers, Dale and Kristi in Florida.

Oh, man, I just can't do that again. I've done a few small sailboats with all the filleting and taping and mixing and sanding. I also did a round few strip/glass canoes with all the mixing and sanding

After considerable research and development, I've found surgical tubing makes the finest slingshot engine.

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Chick, now that you are a building again, can you post some pics of the lid for your cooler.  I originally planned to build a cooler on the top of the ballast tank in the cabin, but by the time I add enough foam to be effective,  a 10 oz soda will be about the capacity!

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Jay, I'll be glad to when I get that far. I'm trying to "steel" enough time to finish the cockpit coamings, then I should be able to get to the cooler lid. Maybe I can make a sketch and post it in the next couple of days. I'm using 2'' foam. 3" in the top. If there was more room, I'd use more, but 2" should be ok for my needs. In previous boats, my frozen milk jug would still have ice after a 3 day cruise in the summer.

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Hey y'all----I'm baaack. Lot's of "life" the last 3 weeks. Finally got to do a little work on the "Breeze". I pre-painted the inside of the combing pieces before assembly. I used Sherwin Williams water based Tile Clad epoxy. I'm happy with it so far. Today I found time to glue the inner coamings (Seat backs to you guys that have the plans,) in place. I temporarily screwed the coaming tops in place to hold the seat backs at the proper angle. At the back end, the coaming assembly was "canted" a little the wrong way. The top was angled to where the outer edge was higher that the inner edge---heck, I'm not sure that even I understand what I'm saying---anyway, a "spanish windlass" pulling the two coamings together and twisted things into the correct alignment. Hopefully, when the glue hardens, and the windlass is released, everything will stay put. Ohhh, it's so exciting. Tune in again in a day or two and see.

 

A picture is worth a thousand words. Note the "stuff holes" in the seat backs.

 

post-1823-0-93915000-1438720841_thumb.jpg

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Good news, good news. Everything stayed put when I released the "windlass". Today, the top edges of the raised sheer strakes and the seat backs were planed flat and level to accept the coaming tops. The tops are now glued down. I put the windlass back as added insurance that all would stay put.

 

So, what to do next. Maybe I'll make Jay happy and get the cooler hatch built.

 

Todays pic:

 

post-1823-0-39450500-1438805290_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

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Yep, that cooler is a great idea, but I am running with the bit in my teeth! I will add a Chick Cooler this winter, when the temperature drops below 90! Awful hot in the shop now! I'll post some pics of my progress in a few days on the thread I started.

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Jay, my temps are in the 90's also. Love that slow hardener from BandB. Just be sure to not leave a "mass" of resin or glue in your mixing pot. Get it all smeared out on the places you are "resinating". I mix really small batches for my gluing jobs like gluing the top caps on the coaming. I only mix 1 pump each resin and hardener then mix in the Cabosil. I mix it in 2 oz. paper cups from the dollar store. That's my style---a little bit at a time. Little mix, little glue-up job, little building job, little amounts of work at a time. But it all eventually gets done.

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Chick, the track I am using came from Peachtree Woodworking Supply, called mini T track. Catalog number 1022. Not sure how to attach a link. So far it seems like it is plenty rigid, doesn't look to industrial. When I get to a "photogenic" part I will post some photos.

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Good Golly Miss Molly, The cooler hatch is finally DONE. Here's some pictures that I promised Jay. ("Chick Cooler" indeed....) I'll add gaskets, hinge, lifting ring, and hold down after everything has been painted.

 

post-1823-0-23178200-1439234947_thumb.jpg Here's the cooler that the lid fits---just in case you guys have forgotten (It's been a long time.)

 

post-1823-0-84988000-1439235091_thumb.jpg The lid with the insulation bonded on..

 

post-1823-0-63142900-1439234950_thumb.jpg The lid has been glassed and the the "flange" attached, sitting in place---hinges will come after painting.

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Here's today's progress report. The cabin top framing is done and I'm putting the second coat of epoxy on the framing and underside of the cabin top plywood today. Then we're off for a weekend of camping. (You know, that pesky "life" that keeps getting in the way of what we REALLY wanna be doing.) Oh well, hopefully the top will get installed Monday or Tuesday. Then after a few details to get ready for the dreaded hull flipping operation.

 

By the way, you'll remember that I've departed from the plans with eliminating the hanging knees and adding carlins and cabin top beams. I think that it looks better this way, and I hate having to fillet and glass tape over my head to attach the top.

 

Here's the pictures.

 

post-1823-0-25589500-1439564487_thumb.jpg  post-1823-0-54531500-1439564488_thumb.jpg

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I originally designed the deck construction to be built like Chick is building his CS17. I got concerned about the kit builder getting the sheer curve wrong when viewed from above which could mean that the deck panels might not fit the boat. Doug's CS20 was drawn this way also. He elected to fit the inwale to the deck first, this made the deck fit the hull but the inwale did not fit tight against the hull.

 

The new way forces the deck to fit the hull exactly as drawn and eliminates the complex beveling. If the builder pre-cuts the glass tape and wets the glass out down hand on the bench, rolls it in place on the boat, covering it in peel ply and rolling it out with an air roller (grooved metal roller) he will have a neat strong deck to hull joint. The tape will fit between the hanging knees which means that we are dealing with short lengths of glass and done this way.  Glassing upside down this way is easy and should be quicker to build than going the inwale route.

 

Chick has plenty of experience and I know that he can wing it if he has to.

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It helped to get the span and crown for the deck beams so the width of the top should be ok. The only problem with fit actually comes at bulkhead 2, For some reason the top is too narrow at that spot. I don't know why???? The bulkhead is exactly on the pre-marked lines of the hull panels. The sheer strake lines don't quite line up with the lines on the hull panels. Don't know how this can actually happen with the wire holes aligned tying the sheer panels and hull panels together. I guess therein is where the problem comes. I dunno. It's a mystery...

 

Yep, I can wing it!!!! Tomorrow the top goes on---one way or another. This kit has been a pleasure to build. The "B&B guys" have done a great engineering job on it. But I just can't leave everything alone. It has saved TONS of time! Now I'm spoiled and won't want to build from just plans again!

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