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Peter HK

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Peter HK last won the day on November 10

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About Peter HK

  • Birthday 09/03/1958

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    Brisbane Australia
  • Supporting Member Since
    08/06/2018

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  1. I think I misinterpreted your term lugged sail. You probably meant slides for a sail track. They work really well and make reefing and dropping easy. As I said I had track on my CS17. It’s a good option. But you also said a simple rig would be good and the standing lug certainly fits that definition. Cheers Peter HK
  2. Not a spindrift but I have a modified Welsford Golden Bay dinghy with a standing lug and spritboom. It's a nice rig- easy to set up and the spars fit in the boat. I had sailtrack on my CS17 which works very well. Here are some photos of the standing lug
  3. I think the answer to this is yes. If you look at the Belhaven 19 on the B and B website you will find construction photos - looking through those you can see the centreboard case well offset and built into the bench upright. On the Belhaven the centreboard extends below the hull in the retracted position and is matched by a small bilge keel on the other side so it sits level- see the design notes on the website. Cheers Peter HK
  4. I’ve found paint lasts years and is simple to apply. Cheers Peter HK
  5. Hi Frank I see everyone is being assigned newbie status- even those who have posted for years. Some glitch? Cheers Peter HK
  6. To add a little more about scarfs from the chapter on scarfing in the Gougeon brother's book: "In many boatbuilding situations, we use a ratio of 8-to-1 to determine the size of the bevel, so that a 1" (25mm) thick board will have a bevel 8" (200mm) long. When high-density, highstrength wood is used in a critical area, a mast for example, 12-to-1 proportions may be required. For extra strength and safety, we increasingly recommend 12-to-1 scarfs for lumber." They routinely recommend 8 to 1 for ply. Cheers Peter HK
  7. With scarfs the longer the better. Usual minimum recommendation is 8 to 1, though some advise 12 to 1. I’ve used 8 to 1 with no problems in the past. Cheers Peter HK
  8. That's basically what I've done too. Cheers Peter HK
  9. No doubt baggy sails wouldn't have helped. Why were they baggy? Not enough luff tension/outhaul tension? I skimmed through the video and saw at one point the clew not pulled very tight and the rolled up reefs tied around the end of the spritboom- I usually ease the snotter until the reefed clew is right to the end of the boom and then pull the snotter on hard in heavy conditions. Heaps of luff and outhaul tension resulting in a flat sail is essential. Maybe you need more purchases? Having said that there comes a point when drive from the reduced sail area can't overcome drag from non reduced windage. My 2c worth Cheers Peter HK
  10. I did the same thing 10 years ago to a non nesting dinghy. Made a huge difference re capsize and looked like a new one after paint. Cheers Peter HK
  11. I like the ideas here and those removable seats. When I was contemplating a Two Paw build with a removable seat I was thinking about gluing/glassing foam under the seat as added buoyancy. I think you could do that with your removable aft seats to increase buoyancy even further- you might be able to put enough foam to achieve half the flotation of a built in chamber in the aft hull. They'll be bulkier to store but still very light. Maybe the last piece of the puzzle to achieve full self rescue? Cheers Peter HK
  12. Actually you don't need to detach the cross boat line to remove the rudder/tiller assembly if, as in the diagram you attach the shockcord with a snap hook of some sort. Just unhook the shockcord and pull the line out of the saddle/eyestrap on the tiller. Having said that I knot one end of the line to a simple eye screw with a snaphook onto another eyescrew on the other side. Takes 5 seconds to undo. Cheers Peter HK
  13. Re the tiller tamer, I've used this method for decades and it works really well. Depending on your setup aft there is sometimes an advantage in not having the cross boat line perpendicular/directly athwartships. I attached mine to the boat inwales more towards the stern than the tiller eye to allow easier access to the motor and maximize use of the cockpit seat without removing the line (which I have on a snap hook). The shockcord allows for any minor variation in the geometry of the line. I leave the rudder on for towing and the tamer keeps it stable. Cheers Peter HK
  14. I've found drilling halfway from each side works with any misalignment hidden in the middle of wood where no one can see it? Cheers Peter HK
  15. The selvedge is there to stop the tape unravelling so cutting it off might end up being a problem. I find a tungsten scraper while the epoxy is still a little green removes it quite well. A quilting cutting wheel also does a good job. You roll the cutter along the edge of the tape just far enough in from the edge to remove the selvedge. You have to time it well, while the epoxy is wet enough to let the edge go but sticky enough to hold the rest of the tape down. Cheers Peter HK
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