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Peter HK

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Peter HK last won the day on September 26

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About Peter HK

  • Birthday 09/03/1958

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    Brisbane Australia
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  1. Agree If you don't know Michael Leunig's poem "Ode to a Jet Ski Person" here's a link https://www.facebook.com/MichaelLeunigAppreciationPage/posts/ode-to-a-jet-ski-person-jet-ski-person-selfish-finkmay-your-silly-jet-ski-sinkma/206136656239228/ Cheers Peter HK
  2. No Wait till you really take a chunk out of it- like we all have- before bothering to repair it When you do repair it some on this forum recommend soaking a piece of line in epoxy and gluing that on the edge to reinforce it. I haven't tried it. Since people are recommending extra reinforcement you can rest assured this is a common event. Cheers Peter HK
  3. I've tried this and it works fairly well but only when fully hoisted. A parrell is actually better especially if you have a reef. My parrell (a light line with wooden beads from the craft shop) stays on the mast trapped between the halyard fitting and the snotter attachment. It has a small snaphook to attach to the yard so only takes a second to rig. Cheers Peter HK
  4. This is what I made to build it on Cheers Peter HK
  5. I have a Welsford Golden Bay dinghy ( about 12 ft) which has a standing lug. I don't find the tensions are any issue with a 2:1 downhaul. It's only a small sail so I can't see that being much of a problem. Cheers Peter HK
  6. From the B and B website- looks like you haul it all the way up Cheers Peter HK
  7. Sure How easy depends on your experience in boat building. If you had built a CS17 you wouldn't be asking the question- with plywood /timber/epoxy and glass you can easily do that modification. Just cut out what you don't want, epoxy and glass in what you do and paint over. If you have no experience with epoxy/timber boat building it will likely be a bit more challenging but by no means impossible. I remember the first time I attempted something like this- it was to cut out rotten ply seats/buoyancy chambers in an 8ft dinghy (polyester hull) and make new ones. The first few attempts to fit the ply and epoxy them in were agricultural to say the least but with enough filling and sanding it worked out Ok. By the time I'd finished even this little job my skill level had dramatically improved. After I painted it I got compliments on the "very nice" dinghy. HTH Cheers Peter HK
  8. My 4 stroke suzuki 2.5 hp was quieter than my 2hp stroke yamaha but inevitably heavier (13.5 kg vs 9.8kg) Twin cylinders are smoother but not much quieter and weigh a lot more. On balance I prefer the noisy lightweight motor. Noise cancelling headphones? Cheers Peter HK
  9. Hi Plywood is generally not considered a great choice for rudders and centreboards as the grain is not running in the right direction on alternate laminations and hence provides no strength. On a high aspect ratio rudder like this it would be better to do the traditional plank/ rip into several lengths/ alternate them to minimise warp and glue back together. I consider ply mainly as a core and would use plenty of glass for strength if using ply. I don't think having a squarer profile would make much difference to drag (although in theory the tip vortex is minimised with a narrow tip). HTH Cheers Peter HK
  10. I didn't make a mizzen tube on my CS17 and had a classic mast step. I wouldn't on a lapstrake boat from the aesthetic point of view. The mizzen mast was very easy to raise/step without one. Cheers Peter HK
  11. Hi Samantha Congratulations on the new project. I'll add my 2c worth. There is absolutely no doubt epoxy coating flat sheets of ply on a table is much faster and easier and I have done this many times. There are some problems. If you do 3 coats and leave the panels for some time they become inflexible and can crack when trying to fit to the boat. You do have to wash/sand/correctly prepare the pieces for taping/gluing when you need them. You only get a mechanical bond rather than a chemical one which is not quite as strong- I prepare any edges for taping carefully. I have chosen a middle path of precoating- usually 2 coats- and trying to do it not long before fitting if possible and hot coat if possible. I've never had a well prepared epoxy/glass joint fail but I do remember one 25 years ago when I didn't prepare the surfaces well on a modification and when doing a further modification some years later was surprised by how easily the tape lifted off. In summary- careful preparation of the precoated panels will be fine- mechanical bonds are how epoxy primarily sticks to the wood after all. Cheers Peter HK
  12. Hi Nick When I built my CS 17 in 2006-9 here in Brisbane I had problems finding the right tube size and alloy/temper (6061 T6). The plans gave several options- solid wood, birdsmouth wood and mixed aluminium tubes with wooden topmast. I ended up ordering tube from a company in Seattle (Online metals from memory). They could only airfreight 8 ft lengths so I made tripartite masts with 2 aluminium lower pieces and a solid wood topmast. Quite expensive as I recall but worked well. I remember a subsequent discussion on this forum where Paul Riccelli (a professional designer/builder now deceased) suggested the better option would be a 2 piece mast- the bottom section, about 12 ft, in aluminium and a birdsmouth wooden top. If I were doing it again I'd do it that way, although maybe solid not birdsmouth top as when I calculated the weight saving it was in the order of 100-150 gms and not worth the extra bother of birdsmouth construction (to me anyway). I wonder about the fibreglass tube under the foredeck that the mainmast slides into- is this also for 60mm tube? In which case a new larger diameter mast might involve a fairly significant modification. The mizzen wouldn't be too difficult. BTW waterproof masts are difficult to achieve and most of us drill a hole at the bottom of the mast to let the water out.? Cheers Peter HK
  13. I think I misinterpreted your term lugged sail. You probably meant slides for a sail track. They work really well and make reefing and dropping easy. As I said I had track on my CS17. It’s a good option. But you also said a simple rig would be good and the standing lug certainly fits that definition. Cheers Peter HK
  14. Not a spindrift but I have a modified Welsford Golden Bay dinghy with a standing lug and spritboom. It's a nice rig- easy to set up and the spars fit in the boat. I had sailtrack on my CS17 which works very well. Here are some photos of the standing lug
  15. I think the answer to this is yes. If you look at the Belhaven 19 on the B and B website you will find construction photos - looking through those you can see the centreboard case well offset and built into the bench upright. On the Belhaven the centreboard extends below the hull in the retracted position and is matched by a small bilge keel on the other side so it sits level- see the design notes on the website. Cheers Peter HK
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