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Peter HK

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Peter HK last won the day on November 10 2021

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About Peter HK

  • Birthday 09/03/1958

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    Brisbane Australia
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  1. Hi Plywood is generally not considered a great choice for rudders and centreboards as the grain is not running in the right direction on alternate laminations and hence provides no strength. On a high aspect ratio rudder like this it would be better to do the traditional plank/ rip into several lengths/ alternate them to minimise warp and glue back together. I consider ply mainly as a core and would use plenty of glass for strength if using ply. I don't think having a squarer profile would make much difference to drag (although in theory the tip vortex is minimised with a narrow tip). HTH Cheers Peter HK
  2. I didn't make a mizzen tube on my CS17 and had a classic mast step. I wouldn't on a lapstrake boat from the aesthetic point of view. The mizzen mast was very easy to raise/step without one. Cheers Peter HK
  3. Hi Samantha Congratulations on the new project. I'll add my 2c worth. There is absolutely no doubt epoxy coating flat sheets of ply on a table is much faster and easier and I have done this many times. There are some problems. If you do 3 coats and leave the panels for some time they become inflexible and can crack when trying to fit to the boat. You do have to wash/sand/correctly prepare the pieces for taping/gluing when you need them. You only get a mechanical bond rather than a chemical one which is not quite as strong- I prepare any edges for taping carefully. I have chosen a middle path of precoating- usually 2 coats- and trying to do it not long before fitting if possible and hot coat if possible. I've never had a well prepared epoxy/glass joint fail but I do remember one 25 years ago when I didn't prepare the surfaces well on a modification and when doing a further modification some years later was surprised by how easily the tape lifted off. In summary- careful preparation of the precoated panels will be fine- mechanical bonds are how epoxy primarily sticks to the wood after all. Cheers Peter HK
  4. Hi Nick When I built my CS 17 in 2006-9 here in Brisbane I had problems finding the right tube size and alloy/temper (6061 T6). The plans gave several options- solid wood, birdsmouth wood and mixed aluminium tubes with wooden topmast. I ended up ordering tube from a company in Seattle (Online metals from memory). They could only airfreight 8 ft lengths so I made tripartite masts with 2 aluminium lower pieces and a solid wood topmast. Quite expensive as I recall but worked well. I remember a subsequent discussion on this forum where Paul Riccelli (a professional designer/builder now deceased) suggested the better option would be a 2 piece mast- the bottom section, about 12 ft, in aluminium and a birdsmouth wooden top. If I were doing it again I'd do it that way, although maybe solid not birdsmouth top as when I calculated the weight saving it was in the order of 100-150 gms and not worth the extra bother of birdsmouth construction (to me anyway). I wonder about the fibreglass tube under the foredeck that the mainmast slides into- is this also for 60mm tube? In which case a new larger diameter mast might involve a fairly significant modification. The mizzen wouldn't be too difficult. BTW waterproof masts are difficult to achieve and most of us drill a hole at the bottom of the mast to let the water out. Cheers Peter HK
  5. I think I misinterpreted your term lugged sail. You probably meant slides for a sail track. They work really well and make reefing and dropping easy. As I said I had track on my CS17. It’s a good option. But you also said a simple rig would be good and the standing lug certainly fits that definition. Cheers Peter HK
  6. Not a spindrift but I have a modified Welsford Golden Bay dinghy with a standing lug and spritboom. It's a nice rig- easy to set up and the spars fit in the boat. I had sailtrack on my CS17 which works very well. Here are some photos of the standing lug
  7. I think the answer to this is yes. If you look at the Belhaven 19 on the B and B website you will find construction photos - looking through those you can see the centreboard case well offset and built into the bench upright. On the Belhaven the centreboard extends below the hull in the retracted position and is matched by a small bilge keel on the other side so it sits level- see the design notes on the website. Cheers Peter HK
  8. I’ve found paint lasts years and is simple to apply. Cheers Peter HK
  9. Hi Frank I see everyone is being assigned newbie status- even those who have posted for years. Some glitch? Cheers Peter HK
  10. To add a little more about scarfs from the chapter on scarfing in the Gougeon brother's book: "In many boatbuilding situations, we use a ratio of 8-to-1 to determine the size of the bevel, so that a 1" (25mm) thick board will have a bevel 8" (200mm) long. When high-density, highstrength wood is used in a critical area, a mast for example, 12-to-1 proportions may be required. For extra strength and safety, we increasingly recommend 12-to-1 scarfs for lumber." They routinely recommend 8 to 1 for ply. Cheers Peter HK
  11. With scarfs the longer the better. Usual minimum recommendation is 8 to 1, though some advise 12 to 1. I’ve used 8 to 1 with no problems in the past. Cheers Peter HK
  12. That's basically what I've done too. Cheers Peter HK
  13. No doubt baggy sails wouldn't have helped. Why were they baggy? Not enough luff tension/outhaul tension? I skimmed through the video and saw at one point the clew not pulled very tight and the rolled up reefs tied around the end of the spritboom- I usually ease the snotter until the reefed clew is right to the end of the boom and then pull the snotter on hard in heavy conditions. Heaps of luff and outhaul tension resulting in a flat sail is essential. Maybe you need more purchases? Having said that there comes a point when drive from the reduced sail area can't overcome drag from non reduced windage. My 2c worth Cheers Peter HK
  14. I did the same thing 10 years ago to a non nesting dinghy. Made a huge difference re capsize and looked like a new one after paint. Cheers Peter HK
  15. I like the ideas here and those removable seats. When I was contemplating a Two Paw build with a removable seat I was thinking about gluing/glassing foam under the seat as added buoyancy. I think you could do that with your removable aft seats to increase buoyancy even further- you might be able to put enough foam to achieve half the flotation of a built in chamber in the aft hull. They'll be bulkier to store but still very light. Maybe the last piece of the puzzle to achieve full self rescue? Cheers Peter HK
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