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Peter HK

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Peter HK last won the day on January 23

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About Peter HK

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  • Birthday 09/03/1958

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    Brisbane Australia
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  1. That's how I've done my tiller tamers for years. I use small diameter non stretch line attached under each inwale with a snap hook so I can remove it if I want to. It then loops through an eye bolt under the tiller and is controlled by shockcord attached to another snap hook. The tension is adjustable with the shockcord in a V cleat. The beauty of this system is that you can always override it as its just friction holding the tiller but you can set the resistance to match the conditions. I first saw this in a book about cruising around England in the 1930's. They didn't have sh
  2. I'll make a couple of comments. Re the sprits. In theory each sail has a good and bad tack depending on whether the sprit is affecting sail shape or not, so it is usual to rig the sprits on alternate sides so one tack isn't all bad and the other all good. In truth there's not much difference. My brother used to race his Bolger Gypsy (which has a sprit rig) against another Gypsy identical except the sprit was rigged to the other side. The boats sailed similarly on each tack- he couldn't tell any difference. When reefing the sail ties should be around the sail only, not t
  3. That is a lot of windage. I’m not surprised they may have had anchor issues. The risk of dragging is much higher and you need a bigger anchor and more chain which is heavier and more awkward to handle. I think keeping a low profile has advantages. Cheers Peter HK
  4. Hi Guys You all must anticipate anchoring in very protected areas or at times with very light breezes to contemplate such a large tent with so much windage. My ideas for sleeping on my CS17 were based on a much simpler and lower windage option. My plan was a battened cover over a line from mainmast base to the mizzen snotter attachment, wide enough to drain the raindrops over the side with a bivouac tent underneath. I have the same lift up floor boards as Graham. My experience with yachts/multis with a lot of windage is that they are terrible at anchor in a lot of breeze. I've
  5. Hi Nick Yes the leeboard just hooked over the gunwale and was held down by a piece of shockcord clipped onto a hook. Here are a few more pics Cheers Peter HK
  6. About 20 years ago I had some left over bits of ply and epoxy and glass and built a simple canoe. I enclosed the ends for buoyancy and being a sailor added the option of a mast base for a small rig. I'd never looked at canoe/kayak sailing ideas so just made it up. I wondered about how to balance centre of effort/ centre of lateral resistance and having a daggerboard in the middle of the canoe and it seemed like it wouldn't work. In the end, after discussion with my brother (the engineer) who suggested the long lever arm of a rudder at the end of a long canoe would overcome any lee helm issues
  7. Well said- bedding compounds work well As far as the keel itself I consider it sacrificial- if it rotted it's isolated from the hull by epoxy and glass and easily replaceable. I'd call it a wormshoe of a type. I used an aluminium extrusion on the keel strip which was very inexpensive (mainly to spread the load from the rollers). I didn't extend up the stem so no one sees it. If you want classy then pay for bronze. Cheers Peter HK
  8. Try this link https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/11334-roller-trough-for-a-cs203-trailer/?tab=comments#comment-105992
  9. You might find this link useful https://www.epoxyworks.com/index.php/bonding-pvc-plastic-with-epoxy/ I've used the flame method in the past with success so far - 17 years. Cheers Peter HK
  10. We're talking about 3 inches here so it won't make a lot of difference to the heeling moment. You can always not hoist the sail the last 3 inches and it will be as designed. In theory in light airs it may be beneficial to get a little higher above the boundary layer into a stronger breeze - but we're only talking 3 inches. As to adding a healing force I'd do anything for that these days with the arthritis in my hand, back and shoulder🤣 Cheers Peter HK
  11. Here's a link. http://bluejacketboats.com/boats/bluejacket-24/ Cheers Peter HK
  12. Empty the garage out and start building the next one😄 Cheers Peter HK
  13. Make sure you use nitrile gloves as most others allow penetration of resin pretty quickly Cheers Peter HK
  14. A guy in Alaska built a CS17 in aluminium many years ago- heavy and overbuilt Here's a link https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/5680-aluminum-cs17-for-sale-possibly/?tab=comments#comment-47874 Cheers Peter HK
  15. When I built my CS17, over 10 years ago now, I got into the habit of keeping a rough tally of boatbuilding hours. At launch it was just under 500 hours but could have been 20% more. This was only time actually building/sanding etc. I didn't include any time for planning/getting materials/sharpening tools etc. Also I knew I wasn't planning on a mirror finish. It was my 5th build so I was practiced. I planned the timing of the build to maximize efficiency in my small garage (only 19 ft long and not so wide) by building all the small stuff first - rudder /tiller/centreboard/masts etc.
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