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Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .


Pete McCrary

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With a pair of "Anderson Bailers," which are placed in the bottom of the tank. They evacuate water based on the Ventouri effect. One faces its opening forward (for filling) and the other aft (for emptying). For emptying, the boat needs forward motion of about 3 knots. The Bailers are activated by hand thru a hatch in the top of the ballast tank.

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Drew,... I don't plan any type of breather pipe -- probably just leave the hatch open. However, I've thought about some kind of system that would allow opening / closing the Anderson Bailers without opening the hatch and reaching down into the bottom of the boat. In that case some method of air relief would have to be incorporated. I'll think more of it when I actually have a bailer that I can play with. OTHER IDEAS WELCOME!

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Pete, this probably deserves it's own discussion, but I think the top of the tank is above the waterline. If so, I wonder if the reversed bailer can push water above that line. I think that maybe assistance might be needed. My thoughts are that a couple of buckets of water could be poured in, or a whale pump could be added to fill it the rest of the way. I like what Jay did, but I'm not planning to add an electrical system with much capacity, if at all. Yes, I'm a Luddite.

 

As for those bailers, the way they flip open and lock to close, you will need to reach your hand all the way in. On my Sea Pearl, reaching in to put a plug in the full tank forces the water displaced all over the interior of the boat, which is another plus for Jay's system, although the self bailing cockpit in the CS20.3 helps. If only they made a reversible whale pump.  I'm hoping we here from others about this subject.

 

PS. module done. Glue drying on hull panel joint. 3-D party this weekend.  

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A "tiltable" Tiller,...

I thought that having a "tiltable" tiller could be useful. Not so much while under way, but at anchor or when docked. Just remove the foreword bolt and lift [the tiller] up and out-of-the-way. Or, in the raised position it could be used as a crutch for the mizzen sprit boom. But I haven't checked the dimensions -- it might need an extension. In any case, if used as a crutch, it would need a slip-on "something or other" for the sprit boom.

With a compass (centered on a 5/16 to dowel in the aft bolt-hole) I marked a circle with radius just-so the tiller could be rotated up without binding. Then, with a spacer (simulating the rudder frame), with the bandsaw I cut both ends of the two tiller pieces simultaneously, carefully preserving the cut-offs. The saw curf was just the right width to ensure a non-binding rotation. Then, rounding over with a 1/8" bit, the little flaws are well hidden. The cut-offs are permanently glued to the rudder frame.

post-4915-0-15338400-1454940784_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-00396400-1454941502_thumb.jpeg. Details of the aft tiller pivot.

post-4915-0-04018500-1454941602_thumb.jpeg. Forward bolt removed, tiller in maximum up position.

post-4915-0-31124000-1454941699_thumb.jpeg. Forward bolt in place, tiller in sailing position.

I suppose the forward bolt could be left out so that the tiller could be raised for comfort or other convenience while under way. In that case the forward bolt would be moved to a position just ahead of the rudder post. And whether I want the tiller to tilt while underway -- I'll have holes there anyway just as a place to stow the bolt when tiller is raised as a boom crutch. Critical comments welcome.

PS -- Does anyone know how to have a pix rotated 90 degrees when posting?

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Pete, I always use a "tilting" tiller on my boats for the reason you have given---to get them out of the way while at anchor. They've always worked well for me.

 

post-1823-0-21382900-1454944528_thumb.jpgpost-1823-0-37933600-1454944535_thumb.jpg

 

as for filling the ballast tank, the tank top is close to the waterline so the natural inflow of water will fill the tank to within a couple of inches from the top. That's enough for most of us. If you feel the need to "go all the way', you will need some means to do this. Grahams solution is simple and works well enough without more "complications". BUT i think that he IS planning a pump to fill and empty his own tank. he will be racing Carlita so is wanting the "ultimate". It's interesting to see all of the inovations we all come up with to "improve' our boats. That's at least half the fun of building.

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Chick,

 

The importance of filling the ballast tank all of the way is not just for racing fanatics but to stop the CG of the ballast from moving to leeward as the boat heels. If you want the highest point of vanishing stability, fill it up.

 

The reason why the tank will not gravity fill to the very top is because the cockpit/ tank top has to be above waterline if you want it to drain. It is not hard to bucket a few gallons in through the open hatch until it is full. If you spill any it just drains overboard. Alternatively you can rig a pump, manual or electric.

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Fellow builders -- please be patient with my lament -- but l just need to "let it out."

The day after my 82 (Saturday 1/30) I had to take a building break to sell my CLC PocketShip "Tattoo" in order to raise $$ to finish (and make room for) "Chessie." An exhausting week! Left Manassas, Virginia, at 4am Sunday for 650 mile drive to Guntersville, Alabama. Found that the trailer's electric cable was severed -- repairs made on Monday. Tuesday -- prepared Tattoo for marine surveyor and demo sail. Wednesday met buyer at Huntsville airport, demoed (for buyer and surveyor) Tattoo's systems, launching, sailing, recovery, and made her road-ready for trip to Virginia (she was taken to Alabama by my sister from the October mess-about). Left Guntersville at 4am Thursday trailing Tattoo for Manassas, Virginia (the buyer shared the driving duties -- a big help). Overnight in my own bed, and then on Friday trailed Tattoo to buyer's home in Alexandria to conclude the transaction. Checked in to an Alexanfria hotel (compliments of #2 son) Friday night attending concert conducted by #2 son. Finally home on Saturday morning concluding the most arderous week of my 15 year retirement. Managed to be up for 7:30 am Mass Sunday, then DID NOTHING until Super Bowel time.

Within a few days I finally got back to the fun "work" of building Cs20.3 "Chessie." With the bunk tops laid on (but not glued down) the hull is starting to look like a cabin that I can be comfortable in. They reall fit nicely with very little trimming.

post-4915-0-86193400-1455138895_thumb.jpegpost-4915-0-23155000-1455138983_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-52862700-1455139015_thumb.jpegpost-4915-0-68411500-1455139081_thumb.jpeg

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Maybe, fairly soon -- the sheer strakes. Hope to be ready for rollover with warmer weather in March or early April. We'll see ....

post-4915-0-17278000-1455138678_thumb.jpeg

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Hi Pete, I see you are showing the bunk boards, ours were just like that at the 2.5 bulkhead. We just filled with a wee bit of filet material and a tape over it. I pondered and pondered but all of the bulkheads were aligned, so we just let'er roll. We have a 5/16 red oak cabin sole. Nice touch you have there!

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Pete, I always use a "tilting" tiller on my boats for the reason you have given---to get them out of the way while at anchor. They've always worked well for me.

 

I built a tilting tiller for my Spindrift and Lapwing.  I have to have that.  It also allows for lifting over your head while coming about or gybing.  In my Spindrift, because it is nesting and has no side seats, I sit in the bilge and slid under the tiller coming about.  In my Lapwing it isn't necessary until you have someone else in the aft cockpit with you.  Then the same method is used.  It is so simple to make, and you don't even need to modify the plans at all, cept for using a bolt instead of epoxy.  I do change a few things from the plans   :P

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Agreed, Paul.  Pretty varnished floorboards are unsafe; walnut shells in paint are nasty on bare feet.  Oiled wood is a good middle ground, as well as looking very traditional.  Mine'll be under a cover, so it is worth considering.  right out of the shoot, I'll probably go with some plain plywood boards. But these will be at the top of my list of improvements-- that, and a swivel fishing chair, to fit into the after mast step.

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