Pete McCrary Posted February 5, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 With a pair of "Anderson Bailers," which are placed in the bottom of the tank. They evacuate water based on the Ventouri effect. One faces its opening forward (for filling) and the other aft (for emptying). For emptying, the boat needs forward motion of about 3 knots. The Bailers are activated by hand thru a hatch in the top of the ballast tank. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AmosSwogger Posted February 5, 2016 Report Share Posted February 5, 2016 That seems like a very simple and effective method; thank you very much for the information. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drew Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Pete, do you have a breather pipe out of the top of the ballast tank to allow air to escape as the tank floods, or will you simply leave the hatch open until filled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted February 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Drew,... I don't plan any type of breather pipe -- probably just leave the hatch open. However, I've thought about some kind of system that would allow opening / closing the Anderson Bailers without opening the hatch and reaching down into the bottom of the boat. In that case some method of air relief would have to be incorporated. I'll think more of it when I actually have a bailer that I can play with. OTHER IDEAS WELCOME! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve W Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Pete, this probably deserves it's own discussion, but I think the top of the tank is above the waterline. If so, I wonder if the reversed bailer can push water above that line. I think that maybe assistance might be needed. My thoughts are that a couple of buckets of water could be poured in, or a whale pump could be added to fill it the rest of the way. I like what Jay did, but I'm not planning to add an electrical system with much capacity, if at all. Yes, I'm a Luddite. As for those bailers, the way they flip open and lock to close, you will need to reach your hand all the way in. On my Sea Pearl, reaching in to put a plug in the full tank forces the water displaced all over the interior of the boat, which is another plus for Jay's system, although the self bailing cockpit in the CS20.3 helps. If only they made a reversible whale pump. I'm hoping we here from others about this subject. PS. module done. Glue drying on hull panel joint. 3-D party this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted February 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 A "tiltable" Tiller,... I thought that having a "tiltable" tiller could be useful. Not so much while under way, but at anchor or when docked. Just remove the foreword bolt and lift [the tiller] up and out-of-the-way. Or, in the raised position it could be used as a crutch for the mizzen sprit boom. But I haven't checked the dimensions -- it might need an extension. In any case, if used as a crutch, it would need a slip-on "something or other" for the sprit boom. With a compass (centered on a 5/16 to dowel in the aft bolt-hole) I marked a circle with radius just-so the tiller could be rotated up without binding. Then, with a spacer (simulating the rudder frame), with the bandsaw I cut both ends of the two tiller pieces simultaneously, carefully preserving the cut-offs. The saw curf was just the right width to ensure a non-binding rotation. Then, rounding over with a 1/8" bit, the little flaws are well hidden. The cut-offs are permanently glued to the rudder frame. . Details of the aft tiller pivot. . Forward bolt removed, tiller in maximum up position. . Forward bolt in place, tiller in sailing position. I suppose the forward bolt could be left out so that the tiller could be raised for comfort or other convenience while under way. In that case the forward bolt would be moved to a position just ahead of the rudder post. And whether I want the tiller to tilt while underway -- I'll have holes there anyway just as a place to stow the bolt when tiller is raised as a boom crutch. Critical comments welcome. PS -- Does anyone know how to have a pix rotated 90 degrees when posting? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted February 8, 2016 Report Share Posted February 8, 2016 Pete, I always use a "tilting" tiller on my boats for the reason you have given---to get them out of the way while at anchor. They've always worked well for me. as for filling the ballast tank, the tank top is close to the waterline so the natural inflow of water will fill the tank to within a couple of inches from the top. That's enough for most of us. If you feel the need to "go all the way', you will need some means to do this. Grahams solution is simple and works well enough without more "complications". BUT i think that he IS planning a pump to fill and empty his own tank. he will be racing Carlita so is wanting the "ultimate". It's interesting to see all of the inovations we all come up with to "improve' our boats. That's at least half the fun of building. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted February 9, 2016 Report Share Posted February 9, 2016 Ok y'all, I found the answer to the ballast tank fill and drain problem... ("attached files" won't work, but the facebook version will.) https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10208510751667860&set=gm.1140683382611172&type=3 photo.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Designer Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Chick, The importance of filling the ballast tank all of the way is not just for racing fanatics but to stop the CG of the ballast from moving to leeward as the boat heels. If you want the highest point of vanishing stability, fill it up. The reason why the tank will not gravity fill to the very top is because the cockpit/ tank top has to be above waterline if you want it to drain. It is not hard to bucket a few gallons in through the open hatch until it is full. If you spill any it just drains overboard. Alternatively you can rig a pump, manual or electric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chick Ludwig Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Graham. Will you be making a drawing of your pump system? Can it be retrofitted? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete McCrary Posted February 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 Fellow builders -- please be patient with my lament -- but l just need to "let it out." The day after my 82 (Saturday 1/30) I had to take a building break to sell my CLC PocketShip "Tattoo" in order to raise $$ to finish (and make room for) "Chessie." An exhausting week! Left Manassas, Virginia, at 4am Sunday for 650 mile drive to Guntersville, Alabama. Found that the trailer's electric cable was severed -- repairs made on Monday. Tuesday -- prepared Tattoo for marine surveyor and demo sail. Wednesday met buyer at Huntsville airport, demoed (for buyer and surveyor) Tattoo's systems, launching, sailing, recovery, and made her road-ready for trip to Virginia (she was taken to Alabama by my sister from the October mess-about). Left Guntersville at 4am Thursday trailing Tattoo for Manassas, Virginia (the buyer shared the driving duties -- a big help). Overnight in my own bed, and then on Friday trailed Tattoo to buyer's home in Alexandria to conclude the transaction. Checked in to an Alexanfria hotel (compliments of #2 son) Friday night attending concert conducted by #2 son. Finally home on Saturday morning concluding the most arderous week of my 15 year retirement. Managed to be up for 7:30 am Mass Sunday, then DID NOTHING until Super Bowel time. Within a few days I finally got back to the fun "work" of building Cs20.3 "Chessie." With the bunk tops laid on (but not glued down) the hull is starting to look like a cabin that I can be comfortable in. They reall fit nicely with very little trimming. Maybe, fairly soon -- the sheer strakes. Hope to be ready for rollover with warmer weather in March or early April. We'll see .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted February 10, 2016 Report Share Posted February 10, 2016 I love your cabin sole. It's gorgeous. Now you've got me thinking about the floorboards in my BRS15. Originally, they were going to be made out of 3/8" Meranti. I might have to do "something else now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jknight611 Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Hi Pete, I see you are showing the bunk boards, ours were just like that at the 2.5 bulkhead. We just filled with a wee bit of filet material and a tape over it. I pondered and pondered but all of the bulkheads were aligned, so we just let'er roll. We have a 5/16 red oak cabin sole. Nice touch you have there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Simple and neat is usually the most elegant solution, for most things in a boat. I make sole slats and grates from cedar, though that pine looks to work okay too. My last set of sole slates . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted February 11, 2016 Report Share Posted February 11, 2016 Pete, I always use a "tilting" tiller on my boats for the reason you have given---to get them out of the way while at anchor. They've always worked well for me. I built a tilting tiller for my Spindrift and Lapwing. I have to have that. It also allows for lifting over your head while coming about or gybing. In my Spindrift, because it is nesting and has no side seats, I sit in the bilge and slid under the tiller coming about. In my Lapwing it isn't necessary until you have someone else in the aft cockpit with you. Then the same method is used. It is so simple to make, and you don't even need to modify the plans at all, cept for using a bolt instead of epoxy. I do change a few things from the plans Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Paul, The cedar looks lovely, too. Is it varnished, or oiled? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Lightly oiled with a special mix I use. Tung oil, with a heavy cut, progressively decreased as they go on. The last few coats have a good bit of Japan drier, so I don't have to wait a month to use them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 They sure do look beautiful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 I wasn't going for looks so much as traction under foot. I did try to pick reasonably straight grain and quarter sawn stock. This oil treatment doesn't last long with little UV protection, but the boat was to be stored on a lift in a boat house, so . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don Silsbe Posted February 13, 2016 Report Share Posted February 13, 2016 Agreed, Paul. Pretty varnished floorboards are unsafe; walnut shells in paint are nasty on bare feet. Oiled wood is a good middle ground, as well as looking very traditional. Mine'll be under a cover, so it is worth considering. right out of the shoot, I'll probably go with some plain plywood boards. But these will be at the top of my list of improvements-- that, and a swivel fishing chair, to fit into the after mast step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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