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Designer

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Designer last won the day on March 20

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Vandemere, NC

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  1. I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  2. Steve, I like to glass tape the nesting bulkheads to the hull halves which crosses the centerline under the keel so that it can all be cleaned up prior to adding the keel. It is not hard to cut though the keel after the epoxy has cured to re-separate the hull halves.
  3. What we are trying to achieve is to create a vapor barrier over the wood. Epoxy is the best vapor barrier that we have but it is not 100%. As with all vapor barriers thicker is better and a layer of glass as Steve mentioned is a guarantee of an even thick coating. However I subscribe to the three coats of epoxy for everything above the bilge because I think that life is too short for that level of detail. While playing musical motors with my OB20 that Chick built more than a decade ago I decided put in a new larger fuel tank under the cockpit sole. I cut out a long narrow section of the sole which gave me a perfect opportunity to inspect an almost impossible area to view. Fortunately Chick did not paint over the epoxy so that I could see in an instant that there was no discoloration anywhere under the cockpit. There is no glass anywhere except at the chines and transom and stringers but there looked to be about three coats of epoxy over all of the wood. The bilge area has not been well treated over its life as there was plastic hatch in the outboard well. It took me a while to find out where that water in the bilge was coming from. I got rid of the hatch and put ply cover with caulk over the hole. I always parked the boat bow high with with the bungs removed but the boat often spent a good while in the water with no way to ventilate the bilge.
  4. This is getting exciting, certainly better than watching grass grow. Alan is in charge now, he has opened up better than a mile and is exactly on course. The Highlander is well north of the correct course. There is a northerly route called Crocodile Dragover but it is too early to head north yet.
  5. The winds have now gone west so they now have a nice fair wind. Windy is now showing 9 knots. It will be fair for the next couple of days. If I was near the rear of the fleet I would want to get a hustle on to cross the Bay before it turns foul. Florida Bay is wonderful in a westerly. The Thistle and Highlander have very large rigs which suits this light air. Greybeard is approaching check point 2 in his mk3 and Bones and Pink dog in their CS17 M3 and 1 respectively are approaching Marco Island. I do not know what happened to Swimboy in his CS17 but he returned to the start on the first day.
  6. It is a good idea to add extra sail area for those light weather days. You can either run the staysail or the spinnaker. There is just not enough room for 4 sails on the boat for all of them to set well at the same time and have a nice slot between them so that they can all draw efficiently. The staysail is a docile easily handled sail that will boost your speed nicely. It is easy to hoist and retrieve. It can be used on a close reach to a broad reach. It can be set with the the working sails wing and wing on a fairly broad reach but not straight down wind because the sails start to blanket each other. Tacking down wind in a narrow channel is annoying because the staysail has to be removed for the main to gybe. I have never used the staysail on Carlita because I have the spinnaker and being bigger I will opt for it making the staysail redundant for me. I have experimented a flat cut sail like a jib and a radial tri cut spinnaker. Naturally the flat cut will allow you to carry it closer to the wind but you cannot carry it close enough for windward work. Because it is hard to change spinnakers under way especially solo I typically opt for the spinnaker giving up being able to sail as high with it. It is a lot larger which means that I will have to furl it up sooner than I would with the smaller sail so everything is a compromise. The prices are for the sails only.
  7. Pete, The idea is to not put the trailer in the water past the tires so the boat has to run free. It is easy to undo the winch after you back the boat down the ramp. If the friction is low it will be easy to winch the boat back up again without dunking the trailer. Yes the rollers are set to follow the keel rocker. It will be a bit fiddly to get it right but one advantage is that if one or two rollers are at the wrong height, you can just redrill the bolt hole at the correct height an inch from the old hole and you will be good to go. I intend to install side bunks to guide me when retrieving and to help keeping the boat on the trailer.
  8. I do not care for Chick’s trailer setup. I also prefer to put the weight of the boat on the keel and use the bunks to keep the boat upright. The last few days we have been playing musical trailers to get Alan to the EC with Southern Skimmer. I have Carlita on S S’s trailer and she is well setup except that there is too much friction on the rollers to launch and retrieve without dunking the trailer. Marissa’s trailer was about to be setup for the OB20 so we decided to use it for SS just for this trip. Marissa’s trailer has been used and submerged occasionally for 8 or 9 years and while the frame is sound, we have had to replace about everything else but the hitch and fenders due to rust. The key to getting the boat to roll of the trailer easily is to add more rollers to lower the load on each roller. Because there are not enough frames across trailers to have enough rollers it is hard to get enough roller on a typical trailer. With SS sitting on Marissa’s Trailer we needed to raise the aft roller 1/2” to get her right. We did not have any more U bolts and the current roller brackets were welded on and in the way of a bolt on bracket. We started looking for a roller that we could cobble up that was 1” thicker than the standard roller and we would be good to go. We found that 3” PVC was exactly right size. We cut some 3/4” ply bushings and put it all together and it worked. Remember that it has to do 1 trip and the trailer will be converted to the OB20. This success got us brainstorming and we agreed that maybe we could make up a wood U channel and put a lot of PVC rollers that were positioned to fit the keel rollers. If we need more rollers we can just drill some more holes and add as many rollers as we need to roll smoothly. I based the width on 6” x 3/8” SS bolts and the wood rails are 5/4 - 1” thick actual size. Carlita has the metal strip under the keel which should be fine sitting on PVC rollers. Here is my first attempt to try out.
  9. It is a long way off but if I do not have job conflicts I would like to cruise the area in more depth.
  10. Hi Dimitri, Welcome to the forum. I can't speak for Chick but I feel that I know him pretty well and I believe that he will be just as pleased as I will be to hear how you will use SB and follow your adventures together here and elsewhere on the forum. Carlita has given me a lot of pleasure and I am sure that SB will do the same for you.
  11. Jan, I notice that you kept the outside keel high all the way to the transom. The reason why we drew the keel ending .331 from the transom and tapering to its full height well forward of the transom is to prevent cavitation during turns while planing. As you have built the keel you should be ok at planing speeds running straight and long slow turns. It will cavitate when turning at speed. I normally like to do the keel as you have built so that I can support the boat as far aft on the trailer as possible. I find cavitating more annoying, not to mention what it may be doing to the engine.
  12. Okay Ken, I did not want to hijack this string but you goaded me into it. The story is indeed true, on my first crossing of Florida Bay in the Everglades Challenge in my CS17 I ran out of water. No problem, I will just jump overboard into the 6” of water and spin the boat around and head back to deeper water. Wrong! I instantly sank down to my knees in mud. I struggled back on board humiliated and had breakfast. Having time to think, it was obvious that I needed to improve my pounds per square inch of force on the bottom, snowshoes would be great. As snow shoes were not in my standard kit, in fact I don’t believe that I had ever seen them in real life. I did have a pair of slatted floor boards used for sleeping. I put one overboard and stepped on it. It was a miracle, I could walk back and forth as easily as walking around Vandemere during a flood, except that I only had 3’ of travel. No problem I had a second one and by leap frogging them we easily worked the boat back to deeper water. The snow shoes idea stayed in my mind and I took a pair with me on a later EC on my EC22. When I arrived at the Chocolosky checkpoint to sign in, it was low tide and is famous for it’s nasty mud, here was my chance to see if the snowshoes work. As I struggled ashore wearing the shoes someone said “man are you lost”. They were hard to use without any experience but they were better than nothing. After leaving the last checkpoint at Flamingo we got into the difficult east Florida Bay crossing. As fate would have it there was a honking east wind blowing. Not only is this a head wind, making tacking in the very narrow passes almost impossible, it lowers the water level by blowing the water out into the Gulf which cannot be replenished quickly enough by the few passes between the keys. We made it to Tin Can Pass and ran out of water. I put on the snowshoes and climbed down from the bow. I had my arm over the bowsprit to hold the boat. The wind was shearing the boat back and forth. The boat started to blow me to port so I naturally tried to take a step to port to keep my balance. Wrong! While I had not sunk deep into the mud, it had a firm grip on the shoes and I could not lift my feet. As my CG went way past my support I had no alternative but to fall into the foot of water. As I fell there was a huge splash as I landed on a 4’ shark who was just as surprised as I was and thankfully his immediate need was to escape. I could see that I wold have to improve my technique. I eventually found that if I could keep about half of my weight on the bowsprit, keep my feet moving like in a slow jog and do it pigeon toed to stop walking on my other shoe. I could make forward progress. It soon failed when the pain in my heels brought back on board to see what the problem was. There is grit in the mud that got into my wading shoes and had rubbed my heels raw. They sort of worked but they were no panacea.
  13. Steve, We do have a better idea. Jay and I used three small zip ties 120 degrees from each other every 2 feet along the wire. It is light, cheap and offers little resistance to pull it up inside the mast. It does not slap or make any noise.
  14. Mark, If you look at the cradle plan in profile view you will see that bulkhead 6 sits over the aft cradle. Good luck with going 3d.
  15. Steve, I think that I figured out why the enlarged view gave the 4" measurement. The enlarged view was scaled by 2 and the dynamic dimensioning turned the 2" into 4". We have had some issues with sprits being too short. We have been adding hardware along the way to make rigging quicker and each link we add requires a few inches more sprit. Because the sprit slopes down aft at about 30 degrees, if the snotter is higher on the mast or the sail is not hoisted to the top, it makes the sprit angle down more which requires a longer sprit. I think that we had lengthened the sprits by the time that plan sheet was drawn. I would finish rigging the sprits as you have them and go sailing. If you cannot flatten the sails enough, I would just scarf some wood on the aft end.
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