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Designer

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Designer last won the day on July 30

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Vandemere, NC

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  1. Designer

    B&B Preps for Florence

    I talked to Tom on the phone the other day. They went inland for the storm. He was heading home and the most pressing issue on his mind was cleaning out rotting food from the fridge. His house is high and well built but his shop goes under water. He has a scheme that lifts all of his machines above flood water but I am sure that like us, there will be a layer of mud and lots of flotsum to clean up and there always seems to some stuff that is missed during preparation. How did you fare Oyster?
  2. Designer

    CS20mk3 for family camping?

    Hi Foxwedge, You have been given good advice so far. I just recalculated the displacement at the datum water line for fresh water and got 1507 lbs. It takes another 405 lbs to push the boat down the next 1" evenly. I think that you could put 10 kids on her and she would carry them safely but you might not feel the same. Amos has two kids and I am sure that he has some good cruises planned.
  3. Designer

    Core Sound 20 Mark 3 Build - Chesapeake, VA

    Hey Amos, Love your color scheme, congratulations. Look forward to seeing the boat and family at the messabout. Fred, That is exciting news but a little stealthy, how about some details of the launch?
  4. Designer

    Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Steve, If it will work out better for you, fly into Newbern. One of us can pick you up and return you to the airport. If you want to bring your sleeping bag, you can sleep on Chick's old OB20.
  5. Designer

    B&B Messabout 2017

    Dale, I have not talked to Alan about the date but I think that it will start Friday October 19. We used to have it on the last weekend in October but with winter approaching we tended to have worse weather than the week before plus it often clashed with halloween. Unless Alan feels that the date clashes with something more important, the 19th of October it will be.
  6. Designer

    upwind sailing

    Tom and Dave have given you good advice with the sheeting of the sails. Pinching is definitely not the way to go but so is sailing too full. There is another important adjustment and that is draft control which is adjusted by the snotter. I see a lot of skippers with way too much draft and pinching, complaining that their boats won't go to weather. The picture you posted of Paul's boat is close to what you want. As Wasserboot said you have to play with your adjustments to see what works best for the conditions. I would start in a moderate breeze and sheet the mizzen as Tom suggests and set it flatter than you have done before and sheet in the main also set pretty flat until the mizzen starts to backwind. Sail like this for a while and do a few tacks sailing as close as you can without pinching and see what speed your speed and tacking angle is. Then ease your snotters to draft up the sails in small increments to see what speed versus tacking angle is and then ease your sheets. You should now be on your way to figuring what your best settings will be for that condition. Lighter or choppier conditions will require you to sail a bit fuller. This is done by easing the sheets slightly and adding a little bit more draft. The other thing I want is to dial in about three or four degrees of weather helm. If the main has too much draft you can get lee helm and too flat will create weather helm as well as sheeting the main in too much. It will be the reverse for the mizzen. A bit of weather helm generates more lift than drag and it also encourages you to sail close to the wind as you will see the main start to luff when you lose concentration. Lee helm causes you to sag off to leeward which is not fast if you want to get to windward. Properly sailed, the cat ketch should be competitive around a course.
  7. Designer

    B&B's first annual "Capsize Camp" July, 20-22

    Randy, It has been a long time since I did stability calculations for the Belhaven. I was thinking recently that I need to see if I can even find them and revisit the calculations and bring them up to date. I recall that the 80 degrees was a very conservative number because I was considering a worse case situation like crew falling into the mizzen sail etc.. With feedback and experience I know that you have a greater point of vanishing stability than the mk3's.
  8. Designer

    Core Sound 20 Mark III #3 "Jazz Hands"

    Steve, I like to mill the tops of the coamings 1/8" below the the underside of the hatch and use 1/4" gasket material as Chick says. Alan and I have debated at length on how to handle this and decided that 1/8" is about as close a tolerance as we could expect a home builder to consistently achieve. I like to set my trim router with a straight bit using it as an end mill and trim the coaming tops precisely 1/8" below grade. I do not have any deck to support the the inboard side so using a chisel and block plane work it down to grade. If the cockpit coaming is already installed you have to work the back coaming as you do for the front. It is only 6mm okume so it is not that hard to do. You can round over the top edges and it will look good and it will be a little easier to compress the gasket. When I lift up my hatches I can see a perfect indent all of the way around the gasket. I know that blind hinge mount would be nicer but I have not figured how to do it. After a while I do not even see the flat piano hinge in the big picture.
  9. Designer

    Trailer for Core Sound Mark 3 boats.

    Ken is exactly right. I have the black rollers and the yellow ones and one of solid starboard that I made and all of them as well as some of the brackets show some signs of distortion, not to mention the ones that I have replaced. It is clear that I am putting more weight on the rollers than they can handle. Doubling them up must surely be an improvement.
  10. Designer

    Racing advice in light air

    Tfrie, When sailing a CS17 solo in light air I am always in front of the mizzen mast and to leeward going upwind. This reduces transom drag and reduces wetted surface. Hoist the sails as high as you can. Make sure that you trim the boat to have some weather helm when sailing upwind. Do not sheet the sails in too tight. Try to steer the boat through the tack. Not too much helm at first but increasing as you go rather than just slamming the helm over. If you blow the tack, you need to grab the main sprit and back the main which will pull the bow around to the new tack. This makes for a slow tack but is quicker than any other way to get you back on to the next tack. If you over tack, ease out the main so that it is drawing properly and and start bringing the boat back to close hauled sheeting in the main as you come up to course. I will sometimes ease out the main when I tack and bring it in as the boat accelerates ad comes up to course. When I go off the wind I increase the draft of the sails to increase power. Sailing down wind I am going wing and wing with the mainsail on the windward side and flatten out the sails. The reason for flattening the sails is to present as much projected sail area as you can as the sails are stalled and draft does not provide lift. I could go on but this is a start.
  11. Designer

    B&B's first annual "Capsize Camp" July, 20-22

    I am with Ken, I do not find this subject a downer at all. I have a lot of miles under me in the CS17 and 20 and have never capsized one unintended. The picture of me sitting on the centerboard of my CS17 at the beginning of this string was taken before I went in the EC. It pays to find out if there will be any issues and to solve them before you commit yourself. Instead of depressing me, it made me feel more comfortable when running hard through the night way offshore in the Gulf and very alone, that if something went wrong I could get myself out of it. My first boat was an 11' moth. I weighed less than 100 # and was totally ignorant. I was lucky that it was totally decked over and was easy to right. I capsized so many times that it became a family joke. With all of that practice I became very good at the art of the capsize and would be over the top and onto the board and back over the rail as the boat came back up, barely getting wet. On a blustery day on the river, a good samaritan saw me capsize a few times and called the police. I do not know how they knew where I lived but when the officer told my mother that I had capsized 5 times, her response was "only 5 times"!
  12. Designer

    Trailer for Core Sound Mark 3 boats.

    Chick, In an ideal world, most of what you say is true. Carlita's trailer layout is similar to the one that Steve has just bought, there is a roller on each frame and one forward on the fore and aft centerline member. Carlita has criss crossed the country up and down, sideways and diagonally with around 16 - 18 k road miles under her by now. I cannot find any issues with her hull. I can find all sorts of issues with her rollers and brackets, none of them roll very well and I am having to dunk most of the trailer to launch the boat. I prefer to not to dunk the trailer at all. How can it hurt the boat by doubling the number of rollers so that each roller will not be as heavily loaded. While not evenly spaced, they will be about 6" apart which does cut down the unsupported span and reduces the point loading.
  13. Designer

    Trailer for Core Sound Mark 3 boats.

    Steve, You almost cannot have too many rollers. I find that if you do not have enough rollers, they distort and get out of round and then the difficulty begins. I am wondering if you cannot put two rollers on each frame, one bracket and roller on the forward side and another set on the aft side with the bolts through both sets of brackets. While they will not be evenly spaced, if properly adjusted it will share the load over a lot more rollers.
  14. Dale, I wish that I had an easy answer for you. I, like you loved the simplicity of Lively's rig. If only we could find an efficient way to reliably to reef Lively's rig. Because I also like to sail a well performing boat I just can't give away all of that sail area and because I am silly enough to put myself into harms way I need to reef often. I will just have to tolerate the extra time it takes to rig. I am getting it done quicker with practice and gradual refinement. I am sure that we can figure out how to make the masts rotate but the tabernacles will have to be chunkier. I am working on a latch that automatically holds the mast up while you spin on the wing nut.
  15. Designer

    B&B's first annual "Capsize Camp" July, 20-22

    Dale, On a CS17 there is not enough volume in the masts, even if perfectly sealed to prevent inversion. If the crew makes sure that the sheets are free and that the board is down and immediately gets around or over the boat to the tip of the board and starts to right the boat, they do not need a mast float. The problem is, if something gets fouled or goes wrong or the crew is slow, the boat goes upside down or the mast tips get stuck in the mud, then they need outside assistance which may not be available or might damage the boat trying to help. There is also the rare event when a major front passes through with winds so strong that the safest strategy is to stay in the water until the wind eases up enough to right the boat. Tom described such an event that he was in when most of the very large fleet capsized. I have been caught i such weather myself but fortunately I did not end up in the water. It is times like these when things can go wrong which is why we wanted to do this so that we can get an idea of what to do.
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