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Designer last won the day on April 28

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Vandemere, NC

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  1. Hi Joe, I like it. It is still a work in progress. I am happy with the deign but I have not solved the production procedures. I am now making the body out of Uhmw plastic which we can cnc cut. I made up a cutter to machine the scores for the bearings. That all works okay, the issue is the stainless steel center. Our lathe is old and it takes a lot of time to make to the precision that I want. We do not have a mill so I have to grind the flats by eye and drill the shackle holes. Maybe if I switch the center to bronze it would be easier to make and accept that it will tarnish. If we could find a machine shop that could crank out a few at a reasonable price would be good. Alan used Carlita's swivel in the EC and it held up well. Work has got in the way of play and I have not used on Carlita this year.
  2. Hi Ben, You do not need to bevel the ply. We prefer leaving that gap so that it will fill with epoxy when you lay in your fillet. The bevel for cutting the stiffeners can be taken from the quarter knees. Most people do not even bother with beveling the stiffeners just filling the gap with thickened epoxy. I like to bevel them but if you get it wrong and have too much bevel you will have to trim it off which can be difficult because it is across the grain. I find that a mini grinder with a sanding disc will allow you to trim it easily. On the same note; when you screw the sides to the transom stiffener, you need to just draw in the screw until the sides just touch the transom. If you tighten the screw it will pull in a fish tail when viewed from above. I need to look at that plan to be sure that I give correct advise because there have been some options, the way I intended it was as you interpreted it. The 1 x 2 should be fitted round the vertical reinforcing. Because the transom rakes, you need to bevel the top edge of the 1 x 2 so that the ply top will sit flat.
  3. I remember having a hard time getting Carlita off the trailer while I was at Port Townsend. I have worked on my rollers since and they all turn smoothly. The forward roller is grey but it is not in contact when the boat is being pushed due to trailer flex. The next two are yellow and the aft one is one that I made out of uhmw plastic and it rolls very well. I usually launch Carlita at the shop and use the tractor where I can keep tilting the trailer until the boat has no choice but to roll off. I had a really difficult time launching Carlita at the ramp in South Carolina. I started with the wheel bearings clear of the water. It became very clear that there was no way that I could get it off without going deeper. I cannot remember how many iterations I went through including climbing on the boat twice to make sure that it was not he centerboard causing the problem. The exhaust was almost in the water by the time I floated the boat off. I had spent a good deal of the previous day on the trailer lights and hated to have to submerge the trailer. I want the boat to roll off easier than Petes trough as I am still not keen on submerging the wheel bearings. On Friday evening I refined my version of Pete's trough but with 10 home made PVC rollers. Wish me luck. I will let you know how well or bad it works.
  4. It is true that we were off sailing instead of attending cup holding classes but we elected to leave the builders to personalize their boats their own way. Carlita does have a cup holder along with a paper towel rack. This is the fun part, the boat is done and there is no pressure produce, now you can play and make the boat live how you want. God work Amos.
  5. Don, I am at about 80%. I still have the chores to do before I can go but the weather here tomorrow is perfect so with a bit of luck I will get them done. I am sorry that Chick cannot go but I would not go that far for one day. I will try to go to Buck Hall and get there Friday afternoon, launch and go the creek that they named after me. If you email me your cell # I will catch up to you. I am depending on your research. I have been through there twice in the last two years but have never cruised the area.
  6. I am not interested in going that far for one day. I would want to stay until Sunday.
  7. Hey Chick, Are we still on? Friday is looking like there will be about 60% rain. I have plenty of shelter on Carlita but It might not be fun on the open boats. I have a few chores to get done but I should be able to make it.
  8. I enjoyed watching your time lapse video, you are doing a great job. I am sorry about your little glitch. It is not a big deal and will not compromise the boat. Unfortunately it is right around the maximum curvature where the ply is under the most stress and will cause a slight outward bulge. It needs to be epoxied back into place but you need to apply force to get the cracked veneers back to the fair shape. I would cut a piece of 6mm ply about 9" long and 7" wide with plastic sandwiched between the ply and the hull and screw it over the damaged area to force the hull back to its fair shape until the epoxy cured. Because the 6mm ply bottom that you are screwing into does not have enough thread bearing area to absorb the force needed to draw the cracked area back to a fair shape, you need to use some blocks to screw into, like 1 1/4" squares of 3/4" ply. Put some duct tape on the underside of the blocks. You should do a dry run to check that it works like you want. If it does not quite bring the surface back to fair, try thicker ply. I presume that you will glass the outside of the hull before painting. I would glass a patch on the inside and you will be back to full strength.
  9. Steve, I like to glass tape the nesting bulkheads to the hull halves which crosses the centerline under the keel so that it can all be cleaned up prior to adding the keel. It is not hard to cut though the keel after the epoxy has cured to re-separate the hull halves.
  10. What we are trying to achieve is to create a vapor barrier over the wood. Epoxy is the best vapor barrier that we have but it is not 100%. As with all vapor barriers thicker is better and a layer of glass as Steve mentioned is a guarantee of an even thick coating. However I subscribe to the three coats of epoxy for everything above the bilge because I think that life is too short for that level of detail. While playing musical motors with my OB20 that Chick built more than a decade ago I decided put in a new larger fuel tank under the cockpit sole. I cut out a long narrow section of the sole which gave me a perfect opportunity to inspect an almost impossible area to view. Fortunately Chick did not paint over the epoxy so that I could see in an instant that there was no discoloration anywhere under the cockpit. There is no glass anywhere except at the chines and transom and stringers but there looked to be about three coats of epoxy over all of the wood. The bilge area has not been well treated over its life as there was plastic hatch in the outboard well. It took me a while to find out where that water in the bilge was coming from. I got rid of the hatch and put ply cover with caulk over the hole. I always parked the boat bow high with with the bungs removed but the boat often spent a good while in the water with no way to ventilate the bilge.
  11. This is getting exciting, certainly better than watching grass grow. Alan is in charge now, he has opened up better than a mile and is exactly on course. The Highlander is well north of the correct course. There is a northerly route called Crocodile Dragover but it is too early to head north yet.
  12. The winds have now gone west so they now have a nice fair wind. Windy is now showing 9 knots. It will be fair for the next couple of days. If I was near the rear of the fleet I would want to get a hustle on to cross the Bay before it turns foul. Florida Bay is wonderful in a westerly. The Thistle and Highlander have very large rigs which suits this light air. Greybeard is approaching check point 2 in his mk3 and Bones and Pink dog in their CS17 M3 and 1 respectively are approaching Marco Island. I do not know what happened to Swimboy in his CS17 but he returned to the start on the first day.
  13. It is a good idea to add extra sail area for those light weather days. You can either run the staysail or the spinnaker. There is just not enough room for 4 sails on the boat for all of them to set well at the same time and have a nice slot between them so that they can all draw efficiently. The staysail is a docile easily handled sail that will boost your speed nicely. It is easy to hoist and retrieve. It can be used on a close reach to a broad reach. It can be set with the the working sails wing and wing on a fairly broad reach but not straight down wind because the sails start to blanket each other. Tacking down wind in a narrow channel is annoying because the staysail has to be removed for the main to gybe. I have never used the staysail on Carlita because I have the spinnaker and being bigger I will opt for it making the staysail redundant for me. I have experimented a flat cut sail like a jib and a radial tri cut spinnaker. Naturally the flat cut will allow you to carry it closer to the wind but you cannot carry it close enough for windward work. Because it is hard to change spinnakers under way especially solo I typically opt for the spinnaker giving up being able to sail as high with it. It is a lot larger which means that I will have to furl it up sooner than I would with the smaller sail so everything is a compromise. The prices are for the sails only.
  14. Pete, The idea is to not put the trailer in the water past the tires so the boat has to run free. It is easy to undo the winch after you back the boat down the ramp. If the friction is low it will be easy to winch the boat back up again without dunking the trailer. Yes the rollers are set to follow the keel rocker. It will be a bit fiddly to get it right but one advantage is that if one or two rollers are at the wrong height, you can just redrill the bolt hole at the correct height an inch from the old hole and you will be good to go. I intend to install side bunks to guide me when retrieving and to help keeping the boat on the trailer.
  15. I do not care for Chick’s trailer setup. I also prefer to put the weight of the boat on the keel and use the bunks to keep the boat upright. The last few days we have been playing musical trailers to get Alan to the EC with Southern Skimmer. I have Carlita on S S’s trailer and she is well setup except that there is too much friction on the rollers to launch and retrieve without dunking the trailer. Marissa’s trailer was about to be setup for the OB20 so we decided to use it for SS just for this trip. Marissa’s trailer has been used and submerged occasionally for 8 or 9 years and while the frame is sound, we have had to replace about everything else but the hitch and fenders due to rust. The key to getting the boat to roll of the trailer easily is to add more rollers to lower the load on each roller. Because there are not enough frames across trailers to have enough rollers it is hard to get enough roller on a typical trailer. With SS sitting on Marissa’s Trailer we needed to raise the aft roller 1/2” to get her right. We did not have any more U bolts and the current roller brackets were welded on and in the way of a bolt on bracket. We started looking for a roller that we could cobble up that was 1” thicker than the standard roller and we would be good to go. We found that 3” PVC was exactly right size. We cut some 3/4” ply bushings and put it all together and it worked. Remember that it has to do 1 trip and the trailer will be converted to the OB20. This success got us brainstorming and we agreed that maybe we could make up a wood U channel and put a lot of PVC rollers that were positioned to fit the keel rollers. If we need more rollers we can just drill some more holes and add as many rollers as we need to roll smoothly. I based the width on 6” x 3/8” SS bolts and the wood rails are 5/4 - 1” thick actual size. Carlita has the metal strip under the keel which should be fine sitting on PVC rollers. Here is my first attempt to try out.
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