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Designer last won the day on September 8

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  1. This is all good stuff and being forewarned is forearmed but I do not think that we need to get hysterical. I have capsized probably more than anyone here so you could say that I know something about the subject. If I was venturing far afield alone on a mk1 I would definitely have a mast float. I never capsized a 17 or 20 that was not a test even though I have had them in pretty bad weather. On a mk 3 it is still a good idea. I have singled handed Carlita a lot and been in some scary weather and never felt insecure. I have sailed her upwind with ballast, deliberately overpowered to see what she will do. As the boat heels over, the wind force is reduced but the righting moment is increasing all the way to about 60 degrees where it starts reducing. 60 degrees is huge and it would be a foolish skipper that did not reef long before. Typically it is hard to get her to heel much past 40 degrees while on the wind. On an open boat the down flooding angle is reached by 35 to 40 degrees which is easy to achieve as they do not have ballast. The exact downflooding angle depends on beam and freeboard and inherent stability but once you reach it is over. Down wind is the wildcard because dynamics play a larger factor. Any racing skipper knows, in heavy weather the gybe mark is where most boats capsize. This is because inexperienced skippers bring the helm up quickly to gybe and just when centrifugal force is heeling the boat to the max, over comes the sails adding to the heeling force and suddenly you have reached the down flooding angle and over you go. The smart skipper gybes before the mark by sailing slightly by the lee and holding a straight course, waiting for the gust to pass and pulls the sails over one at a time. He can now approach the mark with full concentration and easily dodge capsized boats and do a tactical rounding of the mark with the sails properly trimmed with no drama. For a cruising boat the downwind lesson is, reef early, reducing sail reduces wind force and lowers the heeling arm. Avoid gybing in high winds. If you have to gybe , do it carefully as described above. Avoid running dead downwind if you can. If you must, let you sails go forward of the beam by about 15 degrees which reduces the dreaded deathroll and makes it hard to accidentally gybe. Sailing in large waves also adds to the dynamics. Follow the paragraph above but reef sooner. Remember you are sailing one of the safest boats around but common sense is still required.
  2. We just got power back on about half an hour ago. We had no real damage and have almost got everything cleaned up. I am sorry to hear about Steve's oysters but glad that he and boat are okay. I hear that highway 12, the only road down the Outer Banks suffered some damage. Speaking of oysters, how did you fare Oyster?
  3. Wes, I think that you are in the ballpark. I have seen the boat and I can vouch for what Wes has said.
  4. I just want to say that I had a great week of sailing and would like to do it again. Like Pete found in the Chesapeake, summer sailing means dodging thunder storms. As it is shallow most everywhere around here, putting the anchor out and getting out of it is a good tactic. You may get bounced around for a while but if you are boating, that goes with the territory. It beats not being able to go for a sail. Going with a group gives a purpose and it is good to share experiences with like minded people. There has been enough talk about using or not using motors. I have found that the motor is worth all of it's hassles. I could not have made my schedules without it. For instance Alan said as I was getting ready to leave "have you seen the forecast? 50% thunder storms and headwinds". I was rigged and ready, the thought of un-rigging, driving around a big loop to get there and re-rigging did not appeal to me. I motor sailed to the mouth of the Bay River before shutting the motor off and started tacking. I got one good squall before the wind shut down and I motored across the mouth of the Neuse River. I had to motor through the canals where the wind stayed light and ahead meaning that I motored most of the way. We sailed most of the OBX 130 but leaving Cape lookout we had 2 hours of tide so we decided to motor sail to Shell Point at the east end of Harkers Island. There were a couple of narrow channels with very shallow water all around and a strong headwind wind where we had to motor or get left behind. Coming home I motored through the Thorofare canal and it's approaches. The wind was foul and diminishing once I passed the Hobucken Cut in the Bay River. I could have anchored for the night but I was almost home. After I cleared the Thorofare Canal I put the anchor down and dropped the sails. I was hot, thirsty and hungry and I needed to get the wind vane set up for the open water crossing, so I had a lunch break. I came on deck to get under way and noticed that the wind had increased and looking to the west saw a big squall about to nail me so I went back below. Alan called to see if I was okay because my Spot tracker stopped moving and gave me the radar report that he posted. We could see that if I waited a while they would pass through. There was a smaller and final cell that was slightly further to the south that I might be able to dodge. The last cell was clear on the north side with a vertical wall. As my course was north, if I got going I might be able to get clear of it. I tried a new tactic for me, I motor sailed with just the mizzen. The wind was getting stronger as the cell got nearer, with mizzen and motor at a brisk idle I was doing a good 4 knots. With this rig I could easily drop the mizzen and tie it down without leaving the safety of the cockpit if the wind became too violent. It worked perfectly and I just cleared the cell, I could see the high rise bridge over the canal to the south get lost in the rain. After I got into deep water I had a wonderful sail across Pamlico Sound doing around 5 knots on a close reach. All of this motoring cost me just shy of 2 gallons of fuel.
  5. Scott, It depends on what paint you are putting on the epoxy. If you are using two part epoxy primer you can put it on while the resin is green. If you are using one part paint it needs to be fully cured. Leaving the boat upside in the sun should post cure it enough to paint with anything once the surface is sanded and washed. If you want to be sure that your chosen one part paint is compatible with your epoxy you can do a test on say about 4" square. Do a control patch of the same paint on a non epoxy painted surface to see if they cure at the same rate. If they do not, they are not compatible. Do not be fooled by the surface skinning over, it is the the paint touching the epoxy that you are interested in. Interlux paints got sick of this problem and state that none of their one paints should be used directly over epoxy and recommend using an epoxy primer first. I have had good success with one part paints directly over cured epoxy but I prefer two paints for durability. I prefer to post cure epoxy glassed hulls in the sun before painting as it helps to prevent or reduce print-thru. That is the glass weave pattern showing through the paint after being in the sun for a while.
  6. Joe, You can go either way. We are going to do the 234. If you go with Jay's jigs we can work with any adjustments you might need. I think that the headroom is not as mach as that picture suggests as Carol was off to the port side and the camera was off to starboard and lower than that center line beam. It would be easy to lower the cabin by a couple of inches once you can get a better feel for it.
  7. Joe, I checked it out and the centerboard is a bit too wide . You could take a 5/8" slice out of the mold and glue it back together or we can just cut another one out. I will be cutting a centerboard mold, you can borrow that one.
  8. We want to borrow your elves. Kidding aside you did a superb build. I hope that you get to keep this one and can find the time to enjoy her.
  9. Wasserboot, I did not know that they made anyone that tall. It is important that can sleep comfortably so I take back my statement that nobody would need a bunk that long. If scaled lengthwise another 5% the midship berths would be 2.16 and the quarter berth would be 2.774 and the length of the boat would be 7.825 long.
  10. Wasserboot, The berths on the MF246 are 6'9" or 2.057 long. The quarter berth is even longer. I would not scale it any more because the volume increases too fast. It could be scaled by different length , beam and height factors but it rapidly becomes a new design. You surely do not need any more length in the bunks so moving bulkheads starts to get more complicated. As for windage, less is always more desirable. I think that it is still a reasonable trade off as the extra power gained from the stability helps to overcome it.
  11. Hi Fred, Fortunately it is an easy fix. For the hull bottom, you need to grind the glass back to the bottom of the crack and same for the delamination, then relaminate it back. Kevlar has great abrasion resistance which I would consider if I was intending to be scraping the bottom on rocks. The local loading can be considerable when a boat is lowered gently onto a rock but in a dynamic situation I am surprised by how little damage there is even if it appeared to be not a heavy duty situation. You certainly mitigated the damage by jumping into the water, I am glad that you did not get damaged. As for replacing the inside with kevlar, I don't see the need to go beyond glass. Even with a much stronger inside skin, if it delaminates you do not have anything. Grinding back to sound wood and relaminating back with glass should be good. You can add some extra layers of glass if you like as it won't cost much or be hard to do or add weight where you do not need it. As for the board, you do not need to replace it. I would grind down say 1/4" at the joint to a 20 : 1 taper and build it back up with layers of glass until it is fair. Carlita's butt join in her board is still going strong. Good luck with the repair.
  12. Joe, A wood centerboard is the most expedient way for the home builder to make. On the MF I wanted the toughest board that we could make. By machining two half molds out of MDF, it gives Jay a simple way to to lay up a solid glass board that should be practically indestructible. There is no wood to swell and there is no need for a lead tip. Not to mention that it will be a perfect foil. We made the rudders on the big cat this way and they have been through a fair bit of abuse so far without any issues. If Jay can get his to pop out of the mold without damage, you could lay yours up in the same molds.
  13. Hi Morley, We recently had a builder bring his CS17 over to the shop to sell for him as he is getting older and no longer uses it. She was built in my boat building class under my supervision by a tool and die maker using the best of materials. All of his joints were perfect. The boat was lightly used. The boat pictured is the one that followed his construction in the class and this owner copied his color scheme except that it has a varnished deck. It is in mint condition. All paint is AwlGrip. If you are interested you can email me.
  14. Wasserboot, I am glad that you like our MF 234 and 246. I think that she will be an excellent boat for your waters. We have similar conditions here in Pamlico Sound which is large and shallow. Alan and I went through a list of boats to add to our web site yesterday. Alan has taken on the web site and has done a great job but we have been overloaded with work lately but digging our way out so expect to see some changes soon. Yes we will be listing the plans on the site.
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