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  1. There is no reason why you cannot build an equal quality boat from the plans. We use the same parts file for the full size plan sheets that come with the plans as the cut file for the kit. You do not have to do any scaling or lofting. If you are meticulous in marking and cutting, and use a good quality marine ply, you will have the same boat. You do have to do your own scarfing but you can do butt tape joints, which are just as strong but take extra fairing. The point that some have made about the huge time saving of the kit cannot be over emphasized. It all depends on your burnout index. If you have a bunch of unfinished projects in your life, starting from plans might not be a good idea. We have shipped quite a few kits to Canada but we usually get burned because the Customs finds an extra fee or two that was not in the shipping quote. The cost does go up as it crosses the border. We have shipped to an address on this side of the border and the customer has driven over and picked it up. If it can be picked up from a depot, everyone can save a bundle because they charge a lot for home delivery and the mk3 kit is so heavy that you need a truck with a forklift. The lid is just screwed down but drivers cannot wait for you to remove the lid and decant the contents. As for headroom, at 6'5" you would be much happier with the 20. I was on Carlita yesterday and thinking of you at 6' 5". At 5' 7" my head just touched the underside of the 1" deep beams sitting sitting tall on 2" cushions which squashed down to about 1/2". The extra 2" in the 3.2 version would not be enough for you, not to mention the extra legroom that you will need. After my trip to Port Townsend we brought out the updated MK3.2 version incorporating everything that we had learned. The main modification was to add 2" more headroom in both models. Everyone I talked to at the Wooden boat festival talked about headroom. Most of the the other modifications were to make it easier to build. There is not a lot more work in the 20 as they both have the same building steps. The 20 does have more surface area to glass, sand and paint.
  2. The new pictures tell me a lot more. The centerboard pin and cap are built to the plan. The centerboard is resting on a keel roller which means that it can be raised a couple of inches. As there is only one line for raising and lowering, there must be a ballasted tip for lowering. I would pull on the centerboard pennant to see if you can raise it all of the way up. I suspect that there is no purchase inside the trunk and you just have a hole in the board for the pennant . Depending on how much ballast there is and my guess at the fore and aft position of the turning block, it should take around 50# to raise the board. As you have a crane I would lift the boat and lower the board. When the board is vertical the pennant attachment should be below the hull. You should be able to pull the board forward of vertical if necessary. The upper drawing is the standard configuration. The blue line pulls the board down, the red line pulls the board up and the magenta line is a shock cord spring. I modified the lower drawing to what I suspect was done on your trunk.
  3. That is not the "as designed" centerboard pennant, it has been clearly modified by the builder. The standard centerboard has a handle that comes out above the trunk and has two external lines, one to lower the board and one to raise it. If there is only one line, I assume that the board has a lead weighted tip for lowering and that line is for raising. We do that on the Mk3 boards but they need a 6: 1 purchase. You should be able to tell when using it. Looking at the size of the pennant and how new it looks, my guess is that it will never wear out assuming that the builder got the geometry right.
  4. Hi Nick, The Mk3 was never meant to be an offshore boat. Just as you rightly said about the skippers ability, the same thing can be said about the boat. For instance on Carlita's cruises all of my stores and gear was stored under the bunks and the lids were dogged down, I had a downhaul on the centerboard to prevent it from crashing down in a capsize, the hatches were well gasketed and dogged down when underway. My reefing system was well sorted out. I have not got around to a masthead float yet but I think it is a good idea. If I was planning to go further offshore I would look into adding some more ballast to the centerboard and outside on the keel. I also carried a PLB and a Spot tracker. Although I never made it to Tassie, I have great respect for the weather down there. My sister circumnavigated it a few years ago in a S&S 33. I would love to have Carlita down there for a season. The main advantage of the mk3 is that you do not have to do the dodgy offshore passages, just trail to the best places. I have found that when I do the offshore legs I never get around to cruising the new areas in depth when I get there because I am sailed out and I am starting to concentrate on the next leg. It is the reverse when I trail to the new place.
  5. Yes, that is exactly what I meant, 1/2 full size or just under 8' long. The point was to prove that the 3d modelled planks unwrapped, would fit when cut out and wrapped back around the hull. We are pleased to report that they did fit exactly and we have half of a beautiful fair hull. Why so big? It was just right as we used 3mm ply which was 1/2 the full thickness. The parts were cut with a 1/16" bit so that everything would be exactly replicated. Here are the pics of the planking.
  6. The Lapwing kit is coming along well. Here is the 1/2 scale model being built, almost read to be able to test the planking. At the bow is an experimental jig to aid installing the inwales. The planks are all cut , the first three have been loosely wired together to see if they will drape over the hull. Instead of a side stringer to support the cockpit seating we have tried a ply shelf. It has the advantage that it helps to space the bulkheads and transom precisely at the side. While the boat is upside down it will be heavily filleted to the planking. A side stringer cannot work well because it has to go across planks which cannot be a fair line. The first thing that everyone says when they see it for the first times is, "it's so cute".
  7. Hey Chick, I am also disappointed but your health is more important. I hope that you can sort it out soon. The weather is about as pretty as it can get and it looks good through the weekend. Randy and Tom have the property nicely groomed and people re starting to roll in.
  8. Ken, Yes, you should plug the mast at the tabernacle. Another thing that I like to do when I glue up a birdsmouth spar is to setup cleats across my spar bench like you showed in a picture of your setup. I make sure that the top faces are straight from head to heel. I cover the tops of the cleats with duct tape then choose a stave and nail it to the cleats with thin headless brads. I nail the heel, then the head. I check for straight and fasten the middle accordingly. This assures that the mast will come out perfectly straight. Yes the bottom side will be straight and the taper will make the rest of the mast curved. I just make the straight side the aft side of the spar. You have noticed how slippery glued faces become when clamping. Many birdsmouth spars end up bent because the staves near the head are very limber and with the clutter of your clamps hindering your view, makes it hard to be sure that it is perfectly straight. Getting all of the edges glued and the eight staves corralled and in place can be a bit of a fire drill, it sure helps to have a spare set of hands for this operation. You can also setup some 45 degree chocks to help keep the first two staves in the right place against the bottom stave. With the bottom stave fixed you are not chasing a moving target.
  9. Ken, I don't have an axe to grind either way but there is one small extra step that you have to remember with a tabernacle is that the mast no longer rotates. This means that when you ease the sail you also have to ease the snotter or it will flatten the sail as the snotter winds around the mast. We have come up with a partial work-around by attaching the snotter to a line between two eyes traps attached on opposite sides of the mast. The extra hardware accounts for some of the debate on sprits being short.
  10. B&B now has the capability to weigh any boat that you can drag to the Messabout. We are offering to weigh any boats that comes. You can drive your trailer onto the scales before launching and return your empty trailer to the scales. Alan has made up a pretty spreadsheet that we can print out and you can learn more about your rig than you ever wanted to know.
  11. That is the mk2 that Chick built which inspired me to create the mk3. It is somewhat similar to Dawn Patrol. It is a good boat and I am pleased to see it still being used and loved.
  12. Hi Reacher, I took the liberty of importing your track along with one of my recent tracks on Carlita. I traced each track (course made good) in blue, the red lines represent the mean wind direction and the black line represents 2 tacks tacking through 90 degrees. I scaled each red line to represent 1 mile straight to windward. The left track took 1.25 miles to cover one mile to windward and the right track sailed 1.84 miles. You can see that huge gains can be made if you can get it right. To make the point I chose one of my better tracks. The conditions were about as good as it could get with perfect wind strength and flat sea with no discernable current. That very afternoon as I beat out of the eastern channel with more wind and a steep 3' sea, my course sailed was worse than the right track. Looking at your latest picture, with that much wind: I would tighten the luff in both sails, flatten the mizzen with more snotter, sheet the mizzen in tighter, flatten the main a bit more and sheet it in until it starts to luff the mizzen and adjust the centerboard rake until the helm has about 3 degrees of weather helm. Then I would try to sail her full and fairly flat. In light airs I would not sheet so tightly. I find that a lot of skippers tend to set their sails too full and sheeted out too far, only to find that they are not pointing very well and in desperation they start pinching way too much. Remember we are chasing VMG not just speed through the water.
  13. https://towndock.net/news/tom-lathrop
  14. Hi Marfal, We get asked this question a lot. We have been following EP for a long time and we have seen some real improvements especially for slow speed displacement boats. There are some planing hulls that have gone electric which is exciting but at this point in the evolution it is still hard to compete with the amount energy that a liter of petrol has stored. To get a boat to plane, it is all about power to weight. Yes you can go fast for a short time and if you have somewhere to recharge you are good to go again but that is not often available or convenient. If you want range then the weight of batteries and Euros starts really going up. To answer your question, 150 kgs of batteries under the console would be no problem on the Marissa. Even 300 kg is acceptable. Some of that weight would be offset by leaving out the fuel and tank. Also electric motors are usually lighter than outboards so it would be like having to carry an extra couple of people on board. As to 300 kgs of batteries fitting exactly under the console, there would probably have to be some redesign as we do not know their dimensions. Perhaps when it is time for you to stop dreaming and make it a reality, the cost of a KW of battery energy will compete with a KW of petrol but as Dave was suggesting, we are not there yet. With the high cost of petrol in Europe you will probably get there before us.
  15. Good sail. Now I have a homework assignment for your next sail. Put the boat on a reach and try to make her steer herself while you are waiting for the steward to serve up your meal. The tools that will have are, main and mizzen sheets, centerboard rake, rudder adjustment using your tiller tamer and moving crew weight fore and aft or athwartships. Pick a land mark to aim for. Remember tightening the mizzen sheet will bring her up and tightening the main will make her bear away. Moving the crew weight forward will bring her up and aft will do the opposite. Obviously if conditions are shifty it may be not worth the trouble. When you get her close to steering herself, the adjustments will be very slight.
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