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Designer last won the day on September 12

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About Designer

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  • Birthday January 1

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    Vandemere, NC
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  1. Congratulations, she looks great. You mentioned that you forgot which side of the boat the sails go. Just to help you remember, I always rig the main to starboard and the mizzen to port. Why? I could have done it either way. The mizzen is easy to reef solo being smaller and is close to the helm. The mainsail rigged to starboard allows you to heave-to on the starboard tack giving you the right of way over other vessels while you are not under way. It was good that you got sail her in light air. she is a spirited boat and can capsize, it is easy to do if you
  2. Like Peter I have used the flame method but I did not realize that pipe glue was compatible with epoxy. When running PVC wire chases I used to just rough up the surface where I need to bond and glass the back side to the frame or bulkhead and have the PVC stand out far enough to get a nice fillet all around the pipe. The object was to waterproof the joint as the PVC passing through the frame and mechanically connected to the glass had more strength than it needed.
  3. Hi Matt. Peter is right, the dimensions for the waterline are given in the plans. Because you are building from a kit, you have an easier way to get your boat level. If your boat is sitting in the building cradle correctly, that is with the forward bulkhead sitting over forward cradle frame and the aft bulkhead sitting over the aft cradle frame, the boat will be level if the floor is level. If the floor is not level, lay a level on the cradle rails and shim the legs until both rails are level fore and aft and athwartships.
  4. Jan, Usually the angle between the sides and the gunwale is a little more obtuse than a right angle. Roundover bits are designed for 90 degree corners so I do that roundover with a plane and sandpaper. If you can use the router , have at it. Yes I do like to have a generous radius there to make it comfortable for my back.
  5. Pete, There is not enough room between the cheeks for a tool. I can apply enough enough friction with my fingers pressing on the machine screw head to tighten the nut. Sometimes I have had to use the flat blade of a screw driver pressing against the head for a bit more friction. Of course you cannot use a nylock nut. When I assemble the rudder for the last time after painting, I make sure that I get some caulk into the thread.
  6. Yes she will. I have done it solo with 60 # of gear. Naturally the more you load it the harder it is to get her going but on a broad reach with and some swell and you are brave, it is achievable.
  7. Jan, There is no right or wrong answer to your question. You could flush trim every edge of the cockpit seating or do as you described. I am responsible for the overhangs. I think that the curves make the boat look better than the squared off look. This is how I do it. Flush trim the sides where you have the blue tape. I cut a strip of 1/4" ply about 1 1/2" wide to clamp to the beams and aft bulkhead and trunk cleats to act as a spacer and guide for the ball bearing on the flush trim bit. This lets you quickly get a constant overhang. I blend the curves to the straigh
  8. I chose 3/4" ply for the Core Sound rudders because being low aspect foils for shallow draft they had a pretty good cross section area. I did intend for them to be glassed. I don't have the numbers in front of me but I recall that there are at least 500 of Core Sounds out there with ply rudders not to mention 1400 Spindrift's and quite a few Bay River Skiffs. My memory is slightly less than perfect but I recall that Chick built two Core Sounds with ply rudders and I recall that Tom used a ply rudder on loon. Laminated solid rudders are clearly stronger than ply. Steel r
  9. Jan, I am not sure about your second question as there may be some terminology issues. The cap goes on top of the mast. The ply piece under the mast is the step and the piece in the mast that fits into the step is the heel. I like to glue in the step last after all of the glass work is done and I like to check that the mast is vertical when the boat is level. The same rules apply to the step for the right clearance as for the collar. If the mast and heel is tight in the step, it is easier to adjust the step in the vise rather than in the boat.
  10. Jan, You are fine. The mast in it's relaxed state sits vertical and the mast collar pitches down aft. This is why the mast is tight, you can see a gap at the aft side of the collar. There will be a gap on the underside forward. You just need to ease the forward top and aft underside until the mast slides nicely. I like to use a length of 1 1/2" PVC pipe or something similar to wrap some sandpaper around working it up and down. The trick is to make hole loose enough to allow for epoxy and paint without being sloppy. You do not need to fuss much at this stage
  11. While fiddling with some hardware I discovered that a Harken 073 eyestrap fits and slides surprisingly well in our sail track. I always have a couple of them in my handy repair kit and with a bit of lashing cord I can quickly make a repair and be back on my way if I should ever have a slide or two fail.
  12. Sorry about not wrapping this up sooner. My shop built slides tested worst of all even though I had a larger cross section. After I looked up the mechanical properties it was obvious why as it was nowhere near as strong. I was surprised that the slides that come on our sails tested better than the ones that we buy domestically. Who knows where any of this stuff originates from anymore? We then searched the web and found the perfect slide right under our noses. It is a slide made out of stainless steel and coated with teflon for low friction. It looks exactly like our
  13. Hi Frank, I am glad that you are still enjoying the boat. It was good to see your video of her sailing herself. You do not have any worries with the masts. They are just collars that keep the upper mast sections positioned. The upper section is buried into it's lower partner by about 9" and there is a lower bushing. With free standing masts there is very little mast compression, with most of the forces being side loading the glass epoxy layup can easily handle all the loads that the section can put on it. We bond the bushings because fasteners add potential corrosion in
  14. I am responsible for the starboard motor mount recommendation. It is only relevant to motors that do not have reverse gear and transom mounted on 17 mk3's. On the CS15 or any of the CS mk1's you can mount the motor on whichever side that speaks to you. On the mk3 I had to cut the transom down for the exhaust to to clear the transom when rotated for reverse. No, a long shaft does not help as the leg extension is below the exhaust. The problem is that it is such tight fit that I can only fully rotate the motor by turning it to the left. To do this I have to lift the tille
  15. Scott, Yes, same as usual.
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