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Designer last won the day on November 28 2020

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  • Birthday January 1

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    Vandemere, NC
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  1. Hi Carter, I am enjoying your build, you are doing a great job. I retrofitted the 35 gallon tank under the cockpit on my OB20 hull #1 that chick built. I did not see any baffles in it, nor was I looking for baffles because I was under the impression that they could not fit them in a roto molded tank. I have not notices any issues from the lack of baffles. Chick had installed a 15 gallon tank on the port side aft. I recently chopped the tank up to remove it from the boat to get rid of some superfluous weight and give more room for fenders etc.. I can assure you that the
  2. Hey Don, have you watched any of Roger Barn's YouTube videos on dinghy cruising?
  3. Peter, if you think that my tent setup had too much windage, have a look at this. They had a pair of Hobie tri's and always cruised together. They each carried their own condo while sailing but set them both up on the one boat, port and starboard to keep it balanced. We did the Outer Banks 120 the summer before last. They said that the windage had not bothered them. We had thunder storms with squalls on two consecutive nights with the second putting us on a lee shore. I did see them walk the boat into deeper water when the storm woke me up but I think that it was more a
  4. Don, you inspired me to post the boom tent cabin that I made for my BRS. It was a lot of work, Carla only got to spent a couple of nights on board in the Everglades. We enjoyed it a lot, we were with another couple with their BRS and day sailed after that. I spent a few night solo on board with it but I sold the boat to make room for my growing fleet. If I got to do it again, I would go with the same lift up floor boards to sleep on but buy a good small tent to save the work. Living in the south I prefer to sleep on board. I recall the walk we took at Bulls Bay seeing
  5. You are doing the right thing by making sure that you are not going astray. This is a critical stage and if you get it wrong it will be harder to get right. Having said that, I cannot see if you have a problem or not. The object is to be able to fair the sheer to the stringers and stem so that the planking will lay down flat to your bevels. The other hard part is to get it so that when you trim off the planking, there will be just the right landing for the gunwale to go on and look right in 3D. There some sectional views in the plans showing a cross section of these parts.
  6. Ken, Here is an article on sound deadening for engine rooms. practical-sailor.com/blog/reducing-boat-noise There might be something that you can glean from it.
  7. I agree with Dave said. It does look like our typical treated southern yellow pine which I have used many times for gunwales. What I like about it is that it will be better seasoned and is less likely to turn into a snake after it is ripped. After I rip the laminations, I look over every one and select the end with the straightest grain and mark it forward. I will select three for port and the three for starboard so that I know which way to cut the bevel on the bottom edge. The forward end has to take the most bending stress.
  8. Chick is correct, the mk3 is a different boat.
  9. That BoM is wrong for the S11n. It is correct for the non nesting version. I recall that the actual length is 11' 4" and rounded up to 12'. You need 3 lengths of 1x2. In the US a 1x2 real size is 3/4 thick and 1 1/2 wide. To keep the fair shape of the boat after it is cut in two, we need to laminate the gunwales around the boat in three layers. Allowing for the saw kerf after ripping 3/4" stock you will end up with about 5/16" laminations and will give you close to 1" thick gunwales, this is close to perfect for that boat. We typically use 2 x 4's, real size 1 1/2 x 3
  10. I have not seen treated fir but I would choose it if given the choice. Fir is stiffer than pine which can be a negative when bending gunwales around the boat. In your cast you are laminating the gunwales in three thin strips, that is not an issue. I have found that treated wood epoxies well as long as it is dry. Around here it is almost dripping wet when it arrives at the lumber yards. I search for older stock, this has the advantage that I can see how it behaves when seasoned.
  11. Douglass Fir is very good for gunwales, I have used it many times. My current preference for a tender that will be covered with fendering is to use treated pine to prevent rot. I have seen a lot of gunwales rotted out from many wood species because the fender keeps them wet. It is worse if you hold the fender on with fasteners.
  12. I had been thinking, with the promise of mild weather for the next three days of going out to see if I could find a way through the maze of shifting sands to the new Drum Inlet that a hurricane had cut a few years ago. With the call for help to rescue the kayak, I shelved the idea. By the time we brought the kayak home I thought that maybe the weather would let me do both. I had been fiddling with the outboard/ transom height and found that out in open water that there was some cavitation. I needed to drop the motor back to the previous hole which was the reason for hauling the bo
  13. Joe, that is an old picture taken at Key Largo. If you click on towndock.net you will see him arriving at the finish in Oriental. He got in just before the weather deteriorated and will likely be the only finisher for a while.
  14. Congratulations, she looks great. You mentioned that you forgot which side of the boat the sails go. Just to help you remember, I always rig the main to starboard and the mizzen to port. Why? I could have done it either way. The mizzen is easy to reef solo being smaller and is close to the helm. The mainsail rigged to starboard allows you to heave-to on the starboard tack giving you the right of way over other vessels while you are not under way. It was good that you got sail her in light air. she is a spirited boat and can capsize, it is easy to do if you
  15. Like Peter I have used the flame method but I did not realize that pipe glue was compatible with epoxy. When running PVC wire chases I used to just rough up the surface where I need to bond and glass the back side to the frame or bulkhead and have the PVC stand out far enough to get a nice fillet all around the pipe. The object was to waterproof the joint as the PVC passing through the frame and mechanically connected to the glass had more strength than it needed.
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