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Pete McCrary

Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

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I think this confirms an opinion I developed a while back, and that would be if a person wanted to build this boat, or one like it, the CNC cut kit option is the only way to go. To have all those parts fit together so nicely would be a dream. In addition to getting a near perfect fit, B&B sources the materials, so that problem goes away as well.


Looking very, very good.

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B & B crew:


Very timely, I am not far away from getting my crew together to do this. I was under the impression I should assemble the whole cockpit module first and then set it in where you just put in the plain bulkheads. Any reason you did it this way?

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Peter asked us to assemble the hull far enough along so that he can trailer it home. He will assemble the cockpit module at home and install it in the hull. We will not glass in the transom, he will unscrew the transom so that he can spread the sides to insert the module. The keel and chines will be glassed.


If you look at the video that Alan posted on installing the CS17 mk3 module you will see how it went.


I was very pleased that we needed to make no adjustments to the panels, every part fitted.

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I wander up here occasionally from the Kudzu area.

I think that is probably the slickest way to build a boat! The little notches on the chines are especially neat.

Does anyone ever use safety wire pliers for stitching? I had a pair left over from racing, and used them on my s-n-g boats. Just pull the plunger and WHEE!

My friend's father collected several buckets full of lead from his dentist. Those little X-ray deals they stick in your mouth. Nice, soft lead we use for cap and ball ammo...

I also use weight lifter weights all the time. Not for muscles, for "clamps".

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Getting ready . .

Well, guys, things are moving along.  Since Alan and the B & B crew "unfolded" the hull on April 8, I've been modifying "Chessie's" trailer so it can transport her cradle and hull from the B & B shop to Manassas, Virginia.  The axle assembly was moved forward 16" and I expect a tongue weight of about 100 to 150 lbs.  A proof of concept roof rack for the pickup has been constructed and tested.  Later, the permanent model will be made from a nice piece of mahogany that I've been saving.  The third photo shows my back-yard garage/shop, the pickup with the prototype roof rack, the trailer with cross-beams, the CLC PocketShip "Tattoo," and the open space in the garage where "Chessie" will be constructed and fitted out.  The shop is in the "shed" extension.  The cradle and hull will be off-loaded into the garage space next to the shop on a level yellow pine floor.  That's the same space where I constructed "Tattoo" in 2010.  Working on a level wooden floor is much easier than coping with an uneven concrete floor with a slight drainage slope towards its door.


We're hoping to transport all items from the B & B shop sometime in May or early June.  I'm still planning a spring 2016 maiden voyage.


Pete Mc


PS1 -- You may have noticed the "cedar-strip" cap for the pickup.  Within the next week or so, I'll post some remarks and photos of its construction on the Woodworking page of these forums.


PS2 -- Do any of you know if a posting (that isn't yet finished) can be saved?  And how it's done?




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Fellow builders . .

On Wednesday, May 13, Alan and crew loaded my pickup and Chessie's trailer with her hull and the other parts of the Cs20.3 level 2 kit.  We were on our way to Manassas, Virginia, by noon.  The next day we unloaded the hull (nestled in her cradle) onto the floor of my shop.  Its a pretty tight fit into my 23' garage.  Next will be to organize the shop for the build out and set up a "parts filing" system so that I can find the next piece needed.  Then just get started.  I'll dare to announce that my target date for her maiden voyage is October so that she may participate in the "mess about" at the end of the month.  If I'm real lucky, maybe also the MASCF in Saint Michaels.


You may notice (in the attached photos) that I covered the feet of the cradle legs with "bunk" carpet.  At this point, the whole assembly is pretty easy to slid around on the pine floor that I made for a boat-building work space.  As she gets heavier, I plan to lubricate the foot pads with some graphite.  Hope that works. 







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When Graham can send me the solo builder plans I hope to build the first CS20 Mk3 in Australia. I'm very impressed by what I have seen of her lines and the clips of her sailing and look forward to the project and to getting her into the water. My wife and I will name her Dragonfly 2 after our amateur built aircraft that we built and flew all about Australia for 10 years or so. Time to get back on the water and looking forward to keeping in touch with other builders. Drew.

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Progress report June 1 --


Finally, I got my shop pretty much organized and have started the project in earnest.


B & B did a great job of unfolding the hull, including having the first two bulkheads in place -- filleted and glassed.  They also filleted and glassed the keel from top of the stem all the way to the transom.  It's a nice wide fillet.  The transom was temporarily wired and screwed in place for transport to Virginia.


Graham gave me an important tip that I should "trim and fit" each cross member to the keel before I started to assemble the cockpit module.  In the photos you'll see them temporarily in place.  I started by gluing up all the finger joints.  You can see the 20' long shear strakes now under the cradle.  Next I started on the CB Trunk before assembly of the module -- which is next.


A request for help!  I've reviewed nearly all of the cs15 and cs17 videos made by Alan -- but I didn't think to "bookmark" them.  I've looked for them, but so far without success.  It would be a big help if maybe some of you could send me internet links to the ones that cover:

-- Gluing the lead weight to the CB and glassing the entire CB.

-- Construction of the mast bushings, collars, and the "ramps" for the sail tracks.


Thanks in advance for your help.  When found, I'll be sure to "bookmark" them for reference.










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Pete, I'll look forward to following your progress. You may want to check-out my thread of Summer Breeze about building the cockpit module.

Start here: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/9480-core-sound-17-mk-3-summer-breeze/page-3 

Look at the post on  04 May 2015 - 07:44 PM.

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Looking great Pete!


Here is a link to a blog post I did on building Doug's Centerboard (Cs20 Mk3 hull #1)

Unfortunately I don't have a video on glassing the ballast to the trunk. Basically we glue it on first with thickened epoxy and then fair the intersection with a putty knife and thickened epoxy before glassing. People always ask what holds the lead on?! To which we reply, "the fiberglass of course!". The glass is VERY strong in tension which is exactly what is needed on the outer edge of the joint between the wood and lead. The fairness of the joint is pretty important however. A small "step" in the joint would mean that the glass fibers are also stepped and not straight down the board which will reduce the strength of the glass be some amount that I don't have time to quantify :) so make the joint fair and smooth. 


If you are a belt and suspenders kind of person, 2 layers of fiberglass wouldn't be the worst thing you could do. It is a "weighted center board" afterall. 


All my build videos are at my youtube channel which is here. I will be adding descriptions, "a lookup table" if you will to make it easier to find specific things which have been requested. 



There is also a "B&B productions" playlist which is here. This playlist right now is some videos of the Mk3 series details we learn about as we go including the video of unfolding your hull. 



I am working to make easier for all to find on our website SOON. 

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More progress to May 4 . .

Thanks to all for comments.


The CB Trunk is assembled with cleats attached on the inboard side.  You can see my "trial fit" of the uncovered CB.  She rotates nicely, but I've decided to ease the rotation and reduce the internal chaff by placing 1/16" nylon washers on each side of the CB.  I know that epoxy won't adhere well to nylon, but I think they will stay in place by the thickened epoxy that slightly overlaps the bevel that I put on the circumference of each washer.  The washers only have to stay in place while inserting the CB into its truck for installation of the shaft.  When applying the fiberglass, I'll just cut holes where the glass would cover the washers.  However, I invite comments on this.  Perhaps it would be better to glass the CB first and then apply the washers.  At this point it would be easy to "pop" the washers off and sand off the thicken epoxy -- and start over.  My measurements show that the 1.5" width of the CB Trunk can easily accept the CB with Glass and Washers on both sides.  Suggestions welcome.


The CB Bumper is also installed.  As recommended by Alan, it's a piece of closed cell foam 6 x 1 x 1-9/16.  My source was "Zoro" on the internet, product number "Zoro#G0451945" for one piece of gray closed cell 1 x 12 x 12 for just $7.37 plus tax & shipping.  I covered the impact side of the bumper with clear packaging tape for some protection of the foam.  Shoved it in place with the 2 x 4 shown on the bench.


Next will be attaching the lead weight to the end of the CB and glassing it.






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Fellow builders ...

We brought the Cs20.3 hull from the B & B shop to our garage in Manassas, Virginia, on May 14. Shown here, we are sliding the hull and cradle off the trailer onto the level hard-pine floor that I fabricated for building the CLC PocketShip "Tattoo" (now FOR SALE).


Shown next to the cradle are the long strakes that needed to be joined by the finger joints. After the glueing and cleanup, they are stowed under the cradle until needed much later.


Next to the two-bays (of the garage) is my shop added as a shed to the post & bream garage that I built in 2001 after retirement. There I have a 20' x 8" work "bench" along the opposite wall. There I can fabricate spars up to 22' in lengsth. Also, I have a 30" x 8' work table on which you can see the CB trunk being fabricated. It is there that I "dry" assembled the Cockpit Module.




I've always had a problem with mixing small batches of epoxy and fixer. So, I thought I'd try to do partial squirts. After measuring the length of a FULL SQUIRT, I marked the pump shafts for 20%, 40%, 60% and 80%. It's worked pretty well.


After the "dry" assembly of the module, it was apparent that getting the module from the shed shop to the hull (in the two-bay garage) would be very difficult. So, it was reassembled [permanently] on saw horses wilthin the two-bay garage next to "Chessie's" hull. You'll see a "fake #46" on the fwd end of the module. I had planned to install #46 after the insertion. However, with good advice from Alan, I decided against that approach.


On August 24 and with the help of several neighbors we planned the insertion. I preped the helpers by first showing them the video that Alan and Graham made while inserting a module into [i think] a Cs17 hulll. With a lot of wiggeling and streaching the hull sides out and careful use of a big rubber hammer, it "dropped" into place with a nice THUNK. Just a little more position adjustments -- and it fits perfectly. The top of the module appears to be nearly perfectly in plane and parallel to the level floor. The bottom interfaces so no gaps are more than a mm. Proof of the accuracy of Graham's CAD design and computer driven table-top router. Shown here is the forward end in place.


At this point all of the filleting and FG taping has been done aft of #49a EXCEPT for the interior of the module / hull (just the bottom) interfaces. The sides (bulkheads 4 & 5) have not been filleted and glassed in place, but the hull is, nevertheless, now very stiff!

The manual instructs that the cabin "foot well" should be carefully glassed (maybe with a double piece of FG for protection from foot traffic). As an alternative, Alan suggested that a floor would accomplish the same. A floor would, of course, also provide a convenient FLAT surface for walking/standing. Alan also pointed out that the bunksupports should nevertheless be filleted and glassed [which I have don]. So, using yellow pine, I fabricated four 3/4" floor beams and nine 9/16" planks. The plank tops were trimmed with a 3/16th roundover bit. The entire assembly weighs in at just 13 lbs. Fits nice and solid.





So, that's the progress made so far. I'm usually working two to lthree hours a day (on average). But with other obligations, I can see that I won't be able to meet my target date at the end of October for the "mess-about." Maybe, by early spring?

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I may be at the mess-about, but without Chessie. I might bring "Tattoo," my CLC PocketShip, which I'm trying to sell. I'm presently planning to participate (w/"Tattoo") in the Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival the first weekend in October.

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Pete, I'll be at the MASCF with my Sea Pearl WildCat. Make sure to say hi if I don't see you first. I'm doing the Wye Island trip as I usually do. Unfortunately, I won't be bringing my Spindrift 11N this year as I have in the past, as I have volunteered to help judge and I have to leave early on Sunday. I'm just keeping it simpler.


I will admit my progress on my CS20.3 halted around the end of May. Summers here in upstate NY are short, and I was only planning to work on it when I could, but then I had my longtime business partner of 28 years lose his battle with cancer, so I have been very busy with work. I did take WildCat up to the 1000 Islands with a couple other boats. One was a Cornish Shrimper 19, while not like a 20.3, it has a cabin that i was jealous of. I'm fired up to get going once I get the rest of my stuff in order.

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Be sure to come for a sail with Carol and I. If we get the mast track and sails in time Southern Express will be there! I have a "mod" to do on the trailer, and a few minor thinks to complete then our CS20.3 will be operational ( never saying finished!).

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