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Randy Jones

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Everything posted by Randy Jones

  1. I wouldn't use a traditional lead acid battery again. I'm happy with a pair of smaller Optima AGM batteries with an A/B battery switch, portable charger, and 5 amp alternator connection on the outboard. They are sealed so they won't leak juice and don't vent gas unless mistreated. When you need to move them they are much easier to manage then a single big old group 24. I suspect checking prices on lithium-ion batteries will probably end any consideration of their use.
  2. Thanks Scott. I dodged Covid and my quarantine ends tomorrow so all is well. I haven't noticed any corrosion on the Belhaven mast. I did need to refasten some of the track a few years ago but the paint has held up well for 14 years. I think you'll like the aluminum etching primer. Still love your Belhaven. thanks
  3. I've nearly finished the mast that started this thread some nine months ago. Finishing method was two coats Rustoleum self etching primer (spray can) followed by brushed on Systems 3 Silver Tip Yacht Primer finished off with brush applied Systems 3 Linear Polyurethane (LPU). After a bit of a learning curve on the first mast the second one went smoothly. The B&B mast kit was a great help. I'd probably skip the second primer next time as unnecessary but do everything else the same. I'm in isolation following Covid-19 exposure - healthy at day 9 with another 5 days to go. Thankful to have my own isolation garage and a spouse that leaves me food and the occasional cold beer on the porch. Thanks everyone for the advice. Looking forward to a test sail.
  4. Rick, CS15 and CS17 form drag is identical and we're moving below hull speed so my guess is it will be all about wetted surface area. I think you might to 3.5 knots. In any case I'm sure it will be faster than you can row. Chuck has an excellent point about these batteries. You use all their energy than boom, they're dead. I think two batteries makes sense and am considering adding a second identical battery as reserve. We'll see what Santa thinks about it.
  5. Correction to my previous post. EP Cary motor is 14 pounds, battery is 6 pounds. I tested it on my CS17 and achieved 2.9 knots (sails stowed on mast, 500 lb crew). Ran for over an hour at full throttle without noticeable drop in speed until the very end. There is some mechanical motor noise at full speed but it is nothing relative to a gas outboard. I'm quite pleased. I'll get some video once I get a proper motor bracket.
  6. Scott, I'm sorry to hear you won't be finishing the 28 footer. The classified adds associated with the Small Craft Advisor magazine are free and read nationally by people with a soft spot for a project like this one. Smallcraftadvisor.com Thanks again for building Belhaven19 hull #3 (now Clementine). I'm enjoying the boat and give you credit every time someone ask me if I built it. best of luck
  7. The hull mounted transducer on Clementine (Belhaven 19) is going on 12 years without issue. Avoiding thru-hull fittings is certainly understandable but I'm not sure it is worth the trouble for boats that are trailer sailed. Of course I'll feel differently if it starts to leak.
  8. What's the latest thinking regarding the "ramps" under the sail track where it spans from one aluminum tube size to another? Do you build these up with thickened epoxy before track installation or is there an easier way? I seem to be making this harder then necessary.
  9. I noticed your located in Springdale. There is a small but growing number of B&B boats in Washington State. I think you'll have the second Mk3. Welcome.
  10. I recently bought a dandy little electric motor called an EP Carry. See smallboatsmonthly.com/article/ep-carry . I've tested it on a Sabot and Michael Storer Rowboat and plan to carry it as an auxiliary on the CS17 and perhaps even the Belhaven 19. It comes with a fancy 14 pound battery that will provide full speed for an hour. I suspect I could go quite some distance at low speed in calm conditions using the Belhaven house battery bank. Too early for a review, but it certainly seems like the real deal. Randy
  11. I've tried to read every old post on painting aluminum mast. Proper preparation is a consistent theme but I have a few questions: 1. Who's got an old mast paint job in good condition and how did you do it? 2. Do you prime and paint prior to attaching the sail track? 3. Do you leave the B&B aluminum track unpainted? My current plan is to degrease, sand, and immediately spray with 3 coats self etching aluminum primer. Then prime with System 3 Silver Tip primer and top coat with Systems 3 white LPU. Since I don't a have a spray gun the self-etching primer will be from a spray can, the Silver Tip and LPU will be brush and roller. I'd appreciate guidance. Thanks
  12. Wish I had thought about storing the boom on the mast. My forward window always leaked so I replaced it with a fixed port. After that the main boom would no longer fit into the Belhaven cabin for storage. Talked a friend into building a two piece boom using the fittings sold by Ductworks. It is too pretty to store outside.
  13. In my backyard and I've already signed up with Clementine, the Belhaven 19. I like the non-racing element and am familiar with the route and most of the stops. That time of year could require a lot of motoring and they'll have to time portions of the trip to ride the tide through the tight spots. Check out the Tacoma Narrows on deepzoom for a good example. Should be a great trip. I understand there is more information on the Salish 100 facebook page.
  14. What would be the benefit from skegs? My experience owning two B&B boats and following this forum for years is that everyone would generally be better off sticking to the plans, especially below the water line. Seems to me skegs would get you more surface area drag while offering little in lateral resistance.
  15. Like new CS17 with trailer for just $3,500. I doubt he will even cover materials and trailer costs.
  16. Your progress is impressive. I've never gotten epoxy to fully cure overnight, but of course I'm not in VA. Be careful about sanding epoxy too soon - that's some nasty stuff.
  17. I had no trouble with the "new method". Are you going to paint the mast before mounting the sail track?
  18. enjoying your thread. I avoided the two part paint as well in favor of a traditional oil enamel from Marshals Cove and appear to have gotten away with it. Just couldn't accept the limited colors available in the two part paints. Only advice I can offer is that the systems three water based silver tip primer worked well as a base for my enamel. Dries quickly, no stink, and the Marshals Cove enamel liked to stick to it. A lot to be said for using water based primer and saving the stinky stuff for the top coat.
  19. Oh boy. talk about opening a can of worms. Hull speed in knots is 1.34 x the square root of water line length in feet. For a 16'-10" CS17 M1 that works out to 5.5 knots. I believe that means you start climbing the bow wave and begin partial planning above 5.5 knots but don't reach a full plane until some higher speed. My CS17 experience is the boat feels "lighter" at about 7 knots and above 8 were certainly planning and anything faster is just crazy fun.
  20. Graham, Thanks for responding. My thought is to do a shallow water test on a sandbar and see if I can find the equilibrium point with the board up and 80 pounds of batteries mounted on the forward floor. If that goes well I'll try it in water deep enough to put the board down. I'll follow up after testing. Randy
  21. Has anyone capsized tested a Belhaven 19? Calculations say stable to 80 degrees before the batteries, fuel, extra lead in the keel, and of course the wine cellar and hot tub. She behaves so much like a keel boat that my 200# on the rail doesn't result in much heel. After a few years of comfortable sailing I've become complacent. Left wondering after reading these posts if she would really roll on over if pushed to 80 or 90 degrees. Certainly not much buoyancy in the mast. I think I will tighten up the lockers and round up some "rail meat" for shallow water testing. Randy
  22. On my CS17Mk1 I use the mizzen staysail halyard to hold up the end of the main boom. For the mizzen I untie the mizzen halyard and attach it to the end of the mizzen boom while using the mizzen sheets to prevent sway. Similar for Belhaven except the end of the mizzen boom sometimes rest on top of the folded bimini. I also put a sail tie around the mast and boom to prevent the boom from banging against the mast.
  23. 10 years myself with no motor, but there are times it would sure be nice. Does that three legged thing seem solid once mounted and can you tip the long shaft motor up and keep the propeller out of the water?
  24. If you're looking for green I recommend Marshalls Cove "Martha Green" available from duckworks. It is a good old fashioned oil based marine enamel that looks good rolled and tipped. Rich, soft color unlike the fancy paints that seem to come only in primary colors. Mine went on beautifully over the two part system three silver tip yacht primer. Paired it with varnished mahogany rail, System Three San Juan Tan on the deck and burgundy canvas. The green does heat up in the sunlight but it hasn't been a problem here in Seattle. Your progress is impressive, keep up the good work.
  25. Brent, I've got Scott's Belhaven 19 now and like it almost as much as he does. I think the major considerations between the two designs you're comparing are: B19 advantages: The feel and comfort of a keelboat in a beachable 19 feet boat. Cabin is crazy big for a 19 foot boat and holds six adults for happy hour. Bimini is choice shade. Comfortable double berth with Pilot berth for a third crew. B19 compromises: The lead keel is obviously always present. You've got to tow it around and drag it thru the water where it adds wetted surface area and doesn't provide any meaningful lift. I have a hard time keeping up with other sailboats in light air but catch up once I breakout the mizzen staysail. I can plane in heavier wind but have not gotten much over 7 knots. That's faster than displacement boats but can't touch the Mk3. Have to have an outboard. Must go forward along a narrow side deck to access the anchor and mainsail depending upon how you set that up. CS20Mk3 advantages: Faster, points higher and probably just a better sailor. Easier tow, safer forward access via the hatch. Could omit the outboard if you like to row. I suspect CS plans are better developed and you don't have to cast a keel. CS20M3 compromises: Less cabin volume, perhaps no Bimini. May not be the gathering spot for happy hour but I suspect it is adequate for a couple. Both good choices. enjoy.
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