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sanmi last won the day on May 8

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  1. I use wrap-it super stretch velcro straps. https://wrapitstorage.com/collections/super-stretch I take one wrap around the boom and through the eyelet and then the second wrap captures the coil. Sometimes it can be a bit fiddly to capture the flying line, but for the most part I can do it with one hand holding the boom and the other hand wrapping the coil. I use them on both mizzen and main booms. With this setup, I can singlehanded take in a reef in both sails in a few minutes. My sequence is usually some thing like this: * heave-to and reef the main (mizzen tight, tiller hard over) * come back into the wind and fix the tiller to a close haul (I use a tiller-clutch) * reef the mizzen
  2. I'm gravitating toward this solution. I also like the idea of being able to store the motor when not in use for long periods (e.g. in the wilderness for a week or two) to keep the motor from fouling the mizzen sheets. There is a place next to the centerboard where it might fit. However, if I'm going to be in the wilderness for a week or two, I'll probably want to use all of my storage for supplies. So maybe storing the motor isn't that important?
  3. My centerboard popped open at the mizzen thwart, probably because of road bumps bouncing the board while on the highway. I glued and bolted a stop just like you.
  4. @Wommasehn I'm interested in your setup. * what kind of boat do you have and where do you put the battery? * I'm not sure where to put a battery in my cockpit. I could just put it on the cockpit floor, and run the cable to the motor. Or maybe, just keep the battery in the locker until I need it, and then pop it on the motor. Seems like moving around with a 20lb battery wouldn't be too bad. Especially since I intend to use the motor only rarely.
  5. I like that idea. I don't rely on my motor as a safety feature so I don't see a downside to storing the battery when not in use. I only use the motor when there is no wind or approaching a crowded marina, and in those cases there should be plenty of time to prepare. The main downside is that taking the battery on and off increases the chance of loosing it overboard. The ePropulsion battery floats, but the torqueedo battery will sink like a rock.
  6. I want to get an electric outboard but they weigh more than my Suzuki 2.5 and I'm concerned about the added weight to the transom. A Suzuki 2.5 which only weighs 28 lbs. A torqueedo is 38lbs and an e-Propulsion outboard is 44lbs (bigger battery, more range). How much weight on the transom is too much weight? Here's a picture with me standing at the tiller and my wife sitting close by. Even with a light outboard you can see the transom is low in the water.
  7. I guess I should think about adding interior hatches to our CS20 you built since we sometimes are caught out. ?
  8. @DesignerGraham, thank you! My preparation todo list is quite long and having those dimensions and your instructions takes a weight off my mind. @Randy Jones Thanks for bringing this up. Where I live in California there are restrictions but I think the local West Marine seems to be on top of it. I googled Washington state bottom paint and found lots of conflicting info on the a 2011, 2018 and 2020 law. The summary is that Washington passed a bad law in 2011 banning copper bottom paint, reassessed it in 2018 and then again in 2020/21 and now has suspended it until 2026 with a plan to come up with a better rule - so pleasure boat owners can still use what the rest of the US has. https://waggonerguide.com/copper-bottom-paint-in-washington-until-2026/ Our trip is broken down this way: six weeks of part-time training in Olympia while I work remotely. The boat will be in the water walking distance from where we are staying. The goal is "certify" Julie as a skipper - so she can operate the boat single handed (MOB drills, docking, sail handling). We expect light winds and lots of rain. Then, we will do a two week full-time cruise at the end of May, possibly in San Juan Islands, Gulf Islands or lower Puget Sound. Maybe we can meet up at some point? Frank
  9. How many Amp-hours per day were you getting from your solar charging system on your DelMarVa trip? I have a SunPower 50W flexible solar panel https://www.expertpower.us/products/sunpower-50w-solar-panel. I intend to mount it on the cabin top in between the hand rails which will give me room to move it about 10” port or starboard depending on where the shade is. I'm liking idea of a tricolor masthead light more and more. The main benefit in my mind is that it eliminates the need to route so many wires, especially the wire to the stern, and I won't have to pop as many holes in my bulkheads and deck or drill into my transom. I'm also adding a 12V receptacle in the cockpit for hanging a separate anchor light from the main topping lift. Current favorite is NASA Marine https://www.nasamarine.com/product/supernova-combi-tri-and-anchor-l-e-d-mastlight/ Thanks for the connector recommendation. It looks better than the SAE connector I've been planning to use elsewhere. Regarding the comments about a steaming light, I don't foresee a lot of motoring at night, especially since we will only carry an electric outboard, but if the need arises I will mount my backup NaviSafe battery powered LED on the bow pulpit. Back to the bottom paint. Any ideas how to find the fore/aft strike positions on my waterline without putting the boat into the water? There are no scum lines that give me a hint.
  10. I like that idea. I’m thinking I could use epoxy or 3M 5200 to seal the hole where the wires exit the mast. I’m using Waterproof cable glands elsewhere but those are too bulky for the mast.
  11. Also, I haven't decided whether to go with a masthead light or deck mounted lights. If I choose a masthead light, I'll either need to dismantle it every time I put the boat back in the driveway or get a new boat cover because our custom cover fits snugIy over the masthead. There are port and starboard nav lights on the cabin, but I am concerned a transom light may be too low and will get obscured by waves. I'm also concerned about night vision. We won't plan to be sailing at night but it might happen. There will probably times when we have to start rowing before dawn . Any opinions?
  12. Graham, If I follow your 90% / 25% rule of thumb, then it leaves me 90 - 25 = 65 amp-hours of usable energy. I'll factor that in to my plans, My 100Ah system is intended just for the Chartplotter/sonar, anchor light, and charging portable electronics. Here are my calculations: Load per day .7A * 8 hr = 5.6AH - Echomap 74sv w/ dual beam transducer (spec for .8A with side beam transducer) .2A * 10 hr = 2 AH - Anchor Light 1.5 + 1 + .3 + .3 = 3.1 AH - Charging two phones and watches Total: 5.6 + 2 + 3.1 = 10 AH per day Solar Charge per day Assume most days will be cloudy = .3 of rated power 10 hours sunlight per day in the summer in the high latitudes 50 W * 10H / 12V * .10 = 12 AH So if my estimates are correct, I should be able to power my electronics just from the panel and still have some left over for maybe adding a powerful VHF. But with 65AH usable energy, that is still 6.5 days with zero solar charging and more like 12 days if we are staying at anchor (which would be likely if there was no sun for a week!). If we only get 5AH from the panel, that still gives us 13 days of power and, if we need to, we can save power by turning off the sonar, switching off the chart plotter for extended periods, only charging one phone, etc. Also, given the constraints of wind and tide (see below), I doubt that we will be navigating for 8 hours per day. I haven't found a great place to put the solar charger so I made an extra large circuit panel and added some ventilation. Any other ideas? As far as propulsion goes, our main propulsion will be oar and sail. The tides in British Columbia are 10 to 15 feet with 3 to 6 kt currents. There are long periods without a lot of wind, and the wind doesn't always coincide with a favorable tide, so our itinerary needs to be very flexible. We will have to plan our day by the tide tables and the summer wind patterns (which are fairly consistent). For example, on windless days we will be happy rowing for 4 hours with the tide to make it 10 or 15 miles to our next anchorage. Depending on our start date, and direction of travel it may involve getting underway anywhere from 5am to 3pm. On windy days, our boat can take us much farther. A friend of ours did 400 miles in six weeks in the inside passage without a motor (https://smallboatsmonthly.com/article/southing/). He traveled with the tide and had no fixed schedule, and that is our plan too. His boat is lighter and smaller than ours which lets him row against the wind and tide in places where we can't, so we think we need something to help us into and out of marinas where the wind or tide won't be in our favor. But I am pretty sure we can be safe and happy while hardly using the outboard. On a five day cruise last year in the Columbia River, we used the motor for a total of about 1.5 hours. We would love to get rid of the smelly gas, oil and noise. Plus - it has reverse speed!
  13. I'm sold on Lithium but not an expert. Here's what I've learned: LiFePO4 is pretty common in adventure vans and off-grid applications and I found a bunch of good you tube videos. In one video, the reviewer discharged a 50Amp-hour battery completely (until the battery management system cutoff) and confirmed that he actually got all 50 Amp-hours out of the battery. There is a wide range of prices. I chose something at the upper end with more features and a cold weather cutoff. It weighs 29lb and I can put it in the boat with one hand. https://www.renogy.com/12v-100ah-lithium-iron-phosphate-battery-w-bluetooth/?gclid=CjwKCAiAl-6PBhBCEiwAc2GOVLodgw1keEBLpi_bVVzZ-fAwRef4L3rZRDKwknswHTKXU1ZKlf5jahoC570QAvD_BwE Smart chargers meant for Lead-acid batteries won't work for LiFePO4 (e.g my old Guest battery charger) so I got a Victron charger 15 amp charger https://www.victronenergy.com/chargers/blue-smart-ip65-charger For solar charging, MPPT chargers are more expensive but also more efficient so you theoretically charge your battery faster. However there are some sources that claim that MPPT doesn't make much of a difference for small solar panels like my 50W panel. I chose a 15A Victron MPPT charger https://www.victronenergy.com/solar-charge-controllers/mppt7510
  14. I don’t have a steady hand. I like the look of a boot so I guess I’ll just have to mask three times!
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