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Randy Jones

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Everything posted by Randy Jones

  1. Don, Tabernacle conversion on my CS17 Mk1 mainmast is also on my project list. Alan's CS15 construction video suggest it would require some remodeling and a new deck, but it doesn't appear difficult. My Belhaven 19 has a mizzen tabernacle that is very convenient and works well. You could do something similar but I don't see much need for a mizzen tabernacle on a CS17 Mk1 where access is easy.
  2. About that sail area. My sailing area up here in Puget Sound often has very light summer winds. Alan worked up a set of high roach full batten sails for my CS17 Mk1. Main and mizzen total 164 square feet. I upgraded from 116 sf of un-battened sails on wooden mast and the difference is remarkable. Advantages are fabulous light air performance, a consistent sail plan, and I haven't needed to fly the stay sail or touch an oar. Disadvantages are that the top batten sticks up like a wild hair and has to be removed in order to furl the sail. I now rig the reefing lines every outing which takes a little more time and I sail a more cautiously. Unless I have a boat load of rail meat the first reef goes in before 10 knots. It is possible that the sail area with the second reef might be a little large but that hasn't been tested yet. I wish I had made the change sooner. Boat is #157 in the attached photo. Randy
  3. Sorry Andy, I can't recall which hatch sealant I used but I suspect it is address somewhere on the forum. Your hatches look pretty tired so probably best to replace them. Great to see you pulling kids into the project.
  4. Andy, Congratulations on the boat. I had leaks on similar hatches caused by failure of the bedding compound between the deck and the hatch flange. You'll know if you remove the screws and the hatch frame separates easily from the deck.
  5. I have boat liability coverage through Farmers for $50 a year. It is added to my Home insurance but you might see if they'll sell it separately. Coverage is not particularly good but I believe it meets marina requirements for transient moorage and anticipate my umbrella policy would cover anything really ugly. Maybe you can add boat coverage to your auto insurance. Good luck.
  6. I absolutely loved the systems three silver tip two part epoxy primer. Good above or below the waterline, good build up, thins and cleans up with water and dries quickly. I applied mine with a foam roller and did multiple coats in one warm day, then let it cure for a few days before topping with traditional oil based marine enamel below the waterline and systems three LPU above the waterline. Five year later I would do the same again.
  7. I plan to participate in the 2023 Salish 100 on my Belhaven 19, Clementine. Would love to see some other B&B builds partcipate. Registration opens Jan 6th and will fill up quickly. Schedule is July 20 to 27th. https://nwmaritime.org/salish100/
  8. Even the mental exercise is making me back hurt. I think the rolling cradle is the solution. Apologies for diverting the thread. Thanks.
  9. I've got floor, seat top, and deck work to do on my CS17. A little worried about spending hours bent over and reaching into the boat. Climbing into the trailered boat is a hassle too. Is a low cradle a back saver or would you keep the boat on the trailer?
  10. I use a plow anchor which resets on its own when the current changes. So far, so good.
  11. I've had an EP Carry electric motor for a few years. They were designed for tenders going back and forth from dock to a moored boat. Should move a Spindrift along smartly and the battery will last for 1 hour at full speed.
  12. A friend of mine whipped up the two-piece sprit shown in the attached video for my Belhaven 19. Significantly more complicated then the previous solution but I rather enjoy it. I store both sprits inside the cabin. The carbon fiber fittings are from Duckworks. 20171028_124348.mp4
  13. I didn't make it to the Salish 100 but I did find these photos. Mizzen in stored position clears the Bimini by a healthy margin and it is about the same when opened. I'll get a photo with the Bimini deployed next chance. I don't use a topping lift but will use the halyard to support the boom and furled sail at anchor. Also included photos of the halyard knot and for extra credit added the mizzen sheet photo. Once I moved the mizzen sheet tiller attachment into vertical alignment with the axis of the rudder the mizzen sheet no longer tries to steer the boat.
  14. Dnjost, I wondered why your were having troubles with the same model that has performed flawlessly for me. Mine is just fine except for the noise, the little fuel tank, and the two-stroke issue. I'm looking now at the EPropulsion Spirit. Is anyone using one?
  15. The Bimini on my Belhaven 19 (Clementine) is wonderful for protection from sun and most of the rain. The only drawback it that the view of the mizzen sail trim is blocked when close hauled. My mizzen clears the bimini but I don't recall exactly how much. I'll get some photos during my upcoming Salish 100 trip that starts 7/15. I'm also looking at installing a portable flexible solar panel on top of the Bimini. I use the knotless halyard attachment with a ball. No problems to date but I'm going to keep an eye on it. Great to see some Belhavens out there. Perfect boat for the Texas 200, especially with a bimini.
  16. Don, I'm not sure but I suspect the battery monitoring system would probably object to running the motor while attempting to charge. Next best thing might be charging a spare battery and changing it out. Considering the high cost of fast chargers, perhaps a 1kW portable AC generator and a 10 or 15 Amp charger would be adequate. Long trips wouldn't be much different from running a gas outboard except you would have to manage your speed to stay within your battery recharge rate.
  17. good stuff. Looks like great fun, at least for the first few hours. Thanks for posting.
  18. For years, I used just a single hard roller on my CS17 trailer along with two carpeted bunks and it worked fine on reasonable ramps. After moving to a location with a flat ramp I added a length of pvc decking down the middle of the trailer for the half round to slide upon. It works well, especially when wet. I think the slick plastic strips that screw to the bunks would work well too and might have been easier. Keep in mind, I put my trailer wheels into the water so the boat is partially floating.
  19. I sometimes use an EP Carry electric motor on my CS17Mk 1 and achieve 2.9 knots in calm water, mostly to pull crab pots. The battery and motor are separate with a combined total weight of 21 lbs. Not enough power to get you out of trouble. It is purely a substitute for rowing and works well in that capacity. Their standard battery gives you 1 hour run time at full speed. You could easily unplug and store the battery while leaving the motor in position and probably not notice it. Controls are a simple variable speed handle without any fancy electronics, soft buttons, or integrated battery to fail. I get slightly more than 1 hour at full speed. Only down sides are once battery voltage drops the battery stops motor operation without warning and the motor at the top of the assembly produces some mechanical noise. Dramatically quieter than a gas motor but not completely silent like some of the underwater motors. These motors were designed for boats much smaller than our. Not sure how fast it would push a MkII but I'd guess it would exceed your steady state rowing speed. https://www.electricpaddle.com/
  20. Sent you a PM. The lower half of Puget Sound is easy access from Olympia and often overlooked by everyone rushing up to the San Juans. Should be mostly empty in May. You might easily kill two weeks cruising your way around the lower sound and/or the 100 miles up to Port Townsend along the same route used by the Salish 100. Google "Salish 100" and you'll find good info on the route which takes you north thru the populated central sound. San Juans are much more natural and remote then the central sound but a long ways from Olympia and probably best accessed via trailer. Weather is another consideration. Most of our rain comes October to April. You may be OK in the south sound in May but Olympia gets significantly more rain than the San Juans. Rain stops everywhere up here mid July to mid September along with most of the wind. San Juans in May could be an ideal combination of dry weather with some wind. Just for fun I've attached a photo showing my bottom paint issue - ankle deep in pacific oysters. Too big for my taste but I don't feel good about mooring over them with copper bottom paint.
  21. I'm facing a similar problem 100 miles north of you. I agree you'll need bottom paint and am curious what you are allowed to use in Washington State. Let us know what product you decide to use.
  22. Just for fun I measured the headroom in Clementine, my modified Belhaven 19. Bench is 14.5 inches from the floor. Sitting headroom is 41 inches (bench to lid) and headroom at the sides is 39 inches. Without cushions, it is probably about an inch higher than necessary. I don't regret the modification but it hasn't helped the looks of the boat. In hindsight I should have consulted B&B before making the change.
  23. Remember, the boat only weights 400 lbs so I doubt you'll hurt it anyway you hoist it. Sea Pearls are fine boats, but I agree with Don - clean her up and sail her a few times.
  24. Congratulations on the boat. Another fine example of builder's not following the plans. I suggest you open the trunk and satisfy yourself that the arrangement is sound or convert it back to the standard design. My CS17Mk1 with standard centerboard has always been trouble free. If I was buying a used CS17 I'd confirm that hatches are water tight and practice reefing in the driveway.
  25. I've only used West Systems. Only issue has been with the pumps that require a larger batch than I need, or malfunction when the can gets close to empty and leave me guessing on ratios. I've had no problems after switching to a cheap digital scale which is also handy for mixing two part epoxy paints.
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