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Randy Jones

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Randy Jones last won the day on July 28

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About Randy Jones

  • Birthday January 1

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    Seattle Washington
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  1. I recently upgraded to Marlow Excel 8MM (5/16") 8 plait poly from duckworks and it is a big improvement over the old three strand. https://duckworks.com/marlow-excel-marstron. I don't often sheet out past 90 degree but I think you want to have enough line to go to 110 degrees as a way to stabilize and dump power running downwind. Also, I made both sheets equal lengths so I wouldn't have to keep track of which one goes on the main. 2:1 seems fine on my CS17 with 86 sq foot mainsail mainsheet. I'd look at upgrading blocks before converting to 4:1 on the mainsheet.
  2. The Pocket Yacht Palooza is this Saturday July 17, 2021 at the Northwest Maritime Center in Port Townsend Washington, 9am to 5pm. I expect a few boats on the beach and a few dozen on the plaza. I'm be there with my trailered CS17 showing off her new 163 square foot fat head rig. Will posts some photos. https://www.pocketyachters.com/port-townsend-pocket-yacht-palooza/
  3. I used Japan drier, a mysterious product I won't pretend to understand. I also waited a day or two to allow full drying of the varnish and hand sanded between coats to even out my runs and high spots. It was my first effort at varnishing a vertical surface. Felt like I was sanding off a good portion of my work but it got better as I went. Keep after it.
  4. I'll pass on driving to NC for wood - hope it finds a good home on a boat. The Spruce available in Seattle as SPF studs is certainly golden in color and probably Sitka Spruce. It made a great chicken coop but I haven't spotted a piece yet that is clear enough for a boom. I have no doubt that a piece of clear spruce with tight grain would be ideal but it doesn't look like I'll find it in the SPF stud pile.
  5. CS20Mk3's don't come up for sale often but the CS17Mk1's and CS20Mk1's are more common and could scratch your itch while you wait. Something from a talented home builder that followed the plans and took their time with the build would be ideal. I own a traditional 15' cat boat, a CS17mk1, and a Belhaven19. The CS17 sails circles around the cat. B19 is a floating RV but still faster than the cat. Like children, I love them all equally but would take the CS17 to the race.
  6. Yes, a well written article from 2008. Seems to be accurate too. The Core Sound Series - Small Boats Magazine (smallboatsmonthly.com)
  7. Doug fir is readily available here and seems to be a lot stronger than spruce. I'll try a stick of fir. If the weight is reasonable they'll be no reason to screw around laminating anything. thanks
  8. I'm in market for a new boom for my CS17. What's the current thought on laminated verses solid spars? I'm thinking of three options: Option 1 a $2.05/lf lumber yard 2 x 4 SPF stud (Canadian spruce) cut down to a 1.5 inch square boom. Option 2 is that same stud ripped into three strips and laminated together with the the middle piece flipped end for end so the grain does not align. Option 3 a single piece of clear spruce easily found here in Washington State but not inexpensive.
  9. Thanks Thrillsbe, that makes perfect sense.
  10. Years ago I hired a guy to repair some hull damage. He was very careful to wear gloves and never seems to get epoxy on his hands or clothes. I think he even wore a respirator. When questioned, he explained he wanted to work professionally with epoxy for years to come and hoped to avoid acquiring chemical sensitivity. The lesson I think is the more often you use epoxy the more careful you should be. I'm not as careful as him but I start every project with the fantasy of a clean project and have occasionally succeeded.
  11. Bob, I finally got out for a sail a got a few photos. There is an important detail regarding where the mizzen sheet lands on the tiller. It needs to be located vertically inline with the rudder pins (not on the rudder head) or it will pull the rudder in the direction of the mizzen sail. Moving the mizzen sheet block does result in uplift of the rudder which I solved with a tiller downhaul. This arrangement has worked well on my boar for several years and I'd recommend it for your Texas 200 trip. Thrillsbe is spot on regarding the reefing - same as the CS series except you need standing blocks to get over the cabin top.
  12. Curt, I'm glad your gonna try this and I'm looking forward to your data. Watts vs Knots and top speed will be interesting.
  13. I've had good results with their silver tip yacht primer and LPU using the roll and tip method. Admittedly, I was only looking for the hand painted look and not a mirror finish. Both want to dry quickly but I was able to manage that by painting first thing in the morning. The LPU seemed to be more sensitive regarding temperature and humidity than the primer. My best LPU results (no brush marks) were on rainy 60F Seattle days. The LPU bright colors don't suit me so I've also used Marshals Cover Marine Enamel rolled and tipped over the silver tip yacht primer with good results.
  14. I'd learned that comparisons between gas and electric motor and even between electric motors are difficult as they all present their data differently. I have an EP Carry electric outboard (250W input, perhaps 1hp equivalent output) that moves my CS17 at 2.9 knots. I use it as a substitute for rowing when the wind dies, but not much more. It may however provide a useful data point (250 Watts into a CS17 results in 2.9 knots) If the Torquedo you're looking at is 3 hp equivalent model 1103C with 1,000 W input I'd guess you might make 4 knots at half throttle for 6 hours. Full throttle maybe 5+ knots for up to an hour. Would that be adequate? If you drop the $2,600 please share test results. good luck.
  15. Posting the bottom half of the photo showing the snotter line routing up the cabin top. Other one is the two-piece boom that breaks down to fit into the cabin for storage.
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