Jump to content

Randy Jones

Members
  • Content Count

    188
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    7

Randy Jones last won the day on September 13

Randy Jones had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

13 Good

About Randy Jones

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 01/01/1

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Seattle Washington

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. What's the latest thinking regarding the "ramps" under the sail track where it spans from one aluminum tube size to another? Do you build these up with thickened epoxy before track installation or is there an easier way? I seem to be making this harder then necessary.
  2. I noticed your located in Springdale. There is a small but growing number of B&B boats in Washington State. I think you'll have the second Mk3. Welcome.
  3. I recently bought a dandy little electric motor called an EP Carry. See smallboatsmonthly.com/article/ep-carry . I've tested it on a Sabot and Michael Storer Rowboat and plan to carry it as an auxiliary on the CS17 and perhaps even the Belhaven 19. It comes with a fancy 14 pound battery that will provide full speed for an hour. I suspect I could go quite some distance at low speed in calm conditions using the Belhaven house battery bank. Too early for a review, but it certainly seems like the real deal. Randy
  4. I've tried to read every old post on painting aluminum mast. Proper preparation is a consistent theme but I have a few questions: 1. Who's got an old mast paint job in good condition and how did you do it? 2. Do you prime and paint prior to attaching the sail track? 3. Do you leave the B&B aluminum track unpainted? My current plan is to degrease, sand, and immediately spray with 3 coats self etching aluminum primer. Then prime with System 3 Silver Tip primer and top coat with Systems 3 white LPU. Since I don't a have a spray gun the self-etching primer will be from a spray can, the Silver Tip and LPU will be brush and roller. I'd appreciate guidance. Thanks
  5. Wish I had thought about storing the boom on the mast. My forward window always leaked so I replaced it with a fixed port. After that the main boom would no longer fit into the Belhaven cabin for storage. Talked a friend into building a two piece boom using the fittings sold by Ductworks. It is too pretty to store outside.
  6. In my backyard and I've already signed up with Clementine, the Belhaven 19. I like the non-racing element and am familiar with the route and most of the stops. That time of year could require a lot of motoring and they'll have to time portions of the trip to ride the tide through the tight spots. Check out the Tacoma Narrows on deepzoom for a good example. Should be a great trip. I understand there is more information on the Salish 100 facebook page.
  7. What would be the benefit from skegs? My experience owning two B&B boats and following this forum for years is that everyone would generally be better off sticking to the plans, especially below the water line. Seems to me skegs would get you more surface area drag while offering little in lateral resistance.
  8. Like new CS17 with trailer for just $3,500. I doubt he will even cover materials and trailer costs.
  9. Your progress is impressive. I've never gotten epoxy to fully cure overnight, but of course I'm not in VA. Be careful about sanding epoxy too soon - that's some nasty stuff.
  10. I had no trouble with the "new method". Are you going to paint the mast before mounting the sail track?
  11. enjoying your thread. I avoided the two part paint as well in favor of a traditional oil enamel from Marshals Cove and appear to have gotten away with it. Just couldn't accept the limited colors available in the two part paints. Only advice I can offer is that the systems three water based silver tip primer worked well as a base for my enamel. Dries quickly, no stink, and the Marshals Cove enamel liked to stick to it. A lot to be said for using water based primer and saving the stinky stuff for the top coat.
  12. Oh boy. talk about opening a can of worms. Hull speed in knots is 1.34 x the square root of water line length in feet. For a 16'-10" CS17 M1 that works out to 5.5 knots. I believe that means you start climbing the bow wave and begin partial planning above 5.5 knots but don't reach a full plane until some higher speed. My CS17 experience is the boat feels "lighter" at about 7 knots and above 8 were certainly planning and anything faster is just crazy fun.
  13. Graham, Thanks for responding. My thought is to do a shallow water test on a sandbar and see if I can find the equilibrium point with the board up and 80 pounds of batteries mounted on the forward floor. If that goes well I'll try it in water deep enough to put the board down. I'll follow up after testing. Randy
  14. Has anyone capsized tested a Belhaven 19? Calculations say stable to 80 degrees before the batteries, fuel, extra lead in the keel, and of course the wine cellar and hot tub. She behaves so much like a keel boat that my 200# on the rail doesn't result in much heel. After a few years of comfortable sailing I've become complacent. Left wondering after reading these posts if she would really roll on over if pushed to 80 or 90 degrees. Certainly not much buoyancy in the mast. I think I will tighten up the lockers and round up some "rail meat" for shallow water testing. Randy
  15. On my CS17Mk1 I use the mizzen staysail halyard to hold up the end of the main boom. For the mizzen I untie the mizzen halyard and attach it to the end of the mizzen boom while using the mizzen sheets to prevent sway. Similar for Belhaven except the end of the mizzen boom sometimes rest on top of the folded bimini. I also put a sail tie around the mast and boom to prevent the boom from banging against the mast.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.