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Randy Jones

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Randy Jones last won the day on August 28

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About Randy Jones

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  • Birthday 01/01/1

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    Seattle Washington

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  1. I recommend getting 5/32" rivets from B&B. I just assembled new mast and installed the extruded aluminum sail track with stainless steel rivets supplied by B&B. The new track is wonderful. Not sure what the plans show but my mast tube drain runs back to the cockpit.
  2. A piece of trex decking, slick side up has been working well for my CS17 trailer. That stuff is slicker then snot with a little water on it. The Trex deflects nicely to match the bottom of the boat resulting in a large contact surface with low friction between the brass half round the and the trex. Not sure how well it would work on a heavier boat but might be worth a try. Next time I'd go with PVC decking. Your paint job looks wonderful. I'm enjoying your post - keep them coming.
  3. I'm in the process of setting up new masts, sail track, sails, reefing etc for my CS17 mk 1 and I started to wonder which components or attachments are, or should be the weakest link. I'm guessing many of us have looked at a rig in heavy weather and wondered what was gonna give away first. Lines, blocks, sheets and attachments are all stout so I suspect the sprit boom, sail lugs, or crew are my weak links. No plans to test to failure. Just wondering if any of you have already worked thru the story problem.
  4. I did not mean to imply that a tabernacle is necessary. My attraction to the tabernacle has more to do with shoulder rotator cuff troubles and plans to sail into my dotage. One of Alan's videos on the CS15? shows the tabernacle under construction. Doesn't look like too much work if you haven't installed the deck yet.
  5. Welcome back. I have a CS17 hull 157 built in 2008 and the design has aged well. I've upgraded to the new sail track and "fat head" full batten sails, am in the process of adding a boarding ladder, and wish I had a main mast tabernacle. My only significant regret regards leaking seat hatches which were not built to design. Overall, I say follow the plans, avoid significant amounts of varnish, get some 9-6" spoon blade oars and let the kid manhandle the mast.
  6. I wouldn't use a traditional lead acid battery again. I'm happy with a pair of smaller Optima AGM batteries with an A/B battery switch, portable charger, and 5 amp alternator connection on the outboard. They are sealed so they won't leak juice and don't vent gas unless mistreated. When you need to move them they are much easier to manage then a single big old group 24. I suspect checking prices on lithium-ion batteries will probably end any consideration of their use.
  7. Thanks Scott. I dodged Covid and my quarantine ends tomorrow so all is well. I haven't noticed any corrosion on the Belhaven mast. I did need to refasten some of the track a few years ago but the paint has held up well for 14 years. I think you'll like the aluminum etching primer. Still love your Belhaven. thanks
  8. I've nearly finished the mast that started this thread some nine months ago. Finishing method was two coats Rustoleum self etching primer (spray can) followed by brushed on Systems 3 Silver Tip Yacht Primer finished off with brush applied Systems 3 Linear Polyurethane (LPU). After a bit of a learning curve on the first mast the second one went smoothly. The B&B mast kit was a great help. I'd probably skip the second primer next time as unnecessary but do everything else the same. I'm in isolation following Covid-19 exposure - healthy at day 9 with another 5 days to go. Thankful t
  9. Rick, CS15 and CS17 form drag is identical and we're moving below hull speed so my guess is it will be all about wetted surface area. I think you might to 3.5 knots. In any case I'm sure it will be faster than you can row. Chuck has an excellent point about these batteries. You use all their energy than boom, they're dead. I think two batteries makes sense and am considering adding a second identical battery as reserve. We'll see what Santa thinks about it.
  10. Correction to my previous post. EP Cary motor is 14 pounds, battery is 6 pounds. I tested it on my CS17 and achieved 2.9 knots (sails stowed on mast, 500 lb crew). Ran for over an hour at full throttle without noticeable drop in speed until the very end. There is some mechanical motor noise at full speed but it is nothing relative to a gas outboard. I'm quite pleased. I'll get some video once I get a proper motor bracket.
  11. Scott, I'm sorry to hear you won't be finishing the 28 footer. The classified adds associated with the Small Craft Advisor magazine are free and read nationally by people with a soft spot for a project like this one. Smallcraftadvisor.com Thanks again for building Belhaven19 hull #3 (now Clementine). I'm enjoying the boat and give you credit every time someone ask me if I built it. best of luck
  12. The hull mounted transducer on Clementine (Belhaven 19) is going on 12 years without issue. Avoiding thru-hull fittings is certainly understandable but I'm not sure it is worth the trouble for boats that are trailer sailed. Of course I'll feel differently if it starts to leak.
  13. What's the latest thinking regarding the "ramps" under the sail track where it spans from one aluminum tube size to another? Do you build these up with thickened epoxy before track installation or is there an easier way? I seem to be making this harder then necessary.
  14. I noticed your located in Springdale. There is a small but growing number of B&B boats in Washington State. I think you'll have the second Mk3. Welcome.
  15. I recently bought a dandy little electric motor called an EP Carry. See smallboatsmonthly.com/article/ep-carry . I've tested it on a Sabot and Michael Storer Rowboat and plan to carry it as an auxiliary on the CS17 and perhaps even the Belhaven 19. It comes with a fancy 14 pound battery that will provide full speed for an hour. I suspect I could go quite some distance at low speed in calm conditions using the Belhaven house battery bank. Too early for a review, but it certainly seems like the real deal. Randy
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