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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on October 8

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About Alan Stewart

  • Birthday January 1

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    New Bern, NC
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    06/17/2019

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  1. Stew and Aphers, Thank you both for posting your comments! We went back to check the numbers and geometry on the S11N as we always do and in the process you helped me discover that we STILL have an error in the S11N templates and the kit with the aft seat. Aphers comment clued me into it. It's something I fixed nearly 2 years ago in the plans but the templates for some reason did not receive the update so I'm now drafting a correction email to the affected builders and hope to "save" some of them. To answer your question about the nesting bulkhead location, you have it in the correct place. As was noted, the bow sits well above the top of the transom so there will be ample space for it fore and aft in the stern half of the boat as you can see below. Depending on how far forward you taper out the keel strip it will sit roughly as shown. Just make sure your nesting bulkhead is "planar" i.e. flat in all directions when you put a straight edge across it especially athwartships. There is more than enough "wiggle room" for an 1/8" deviation from the plans in it's placement so consider it perfect. In the case of the stern seating parts as mentioned above, use the dimensions shown in the cut sheet located in the plans for the stern seat tops, sides and fronts. These dimensions are correct. The seat top in the templates is too wide at the front end and does result in an interference with the bow half (much to my embarrassment). It's ironic since we "updated" the Spindrift designs to 3d models and added a lot of detail to the plans including the shapes of these aft seat parts only to have this happen. The original plans only included their location in the stern of the boat and the builder is meant to frame them in and pattern the pieces to the hull as built as Aphers did. A wise move but hopefully going forward this will be put to rest. T
  2. My Dad really loved this thing when we had Dawn Patrol our Core Sound 20. When not going fast enough for the venturi bailer to suck and water got in the boat either by rain or spray you just reach down and flip the switch. Put the hose in the cb trunk. The d cell batteries lasted a year or so. We found it to be very reliable. We always made sure the oring seal was clean and lightly coated in lanolin. I think a good choice for least effort and not wanting to cut the boat. Another advantage is it can go in a kayak or anywhere else in the boat you need to dewater while you do something else. Attwood 4140-4 WaterBuster® Portable Pump, Submersible, Battery Powered, 200 GPH, 42-Inch Hose, 5 ¼-Inch Diameter https://a.co/d/jaRUdba
  3. Hey Jay, I couldn't get your video to play but happy to see you on here and rest assured any issues you come across we will be happy to help resolve with you. I think it is a fair critique that we should have a bit more info on the build sequence for Marissa as she's become very popular in the last 5 years or so with over 100 plans sold now and she is too good a boat for first time builders to be scared off from taking her on. We will work on that. In the mean time we are so happy to have you here! -Alan
  4. Yes for sure just as good if the thickness of epoxy is equal. The problem is that it's hard to know if the thickness is even throughout without kind of overdoing it in spots. Multiple thin coats ensures a good even thickness everywhere but some of us get impatient. Thickness of epoxy is the most important thing for a good barrier coat to protect the wood from moisture. One other way to achieve a consistent thickness barrier coat is to just glass the wood even if not needed for strength a layer of say 6oz cloth over plywood necessitates a certain amount of epoxy to fill the weave and therefore ensures a good barrier coat. Glassing the ply as a means to an end (getting a decent coat of epoxy on the surface) is just another trick that sometimes makes sense to use.
  5. I haven't tried those grey ones yet but with a plastic core they probably hold up longer than the foam ones for sure but you can get a pretty smooth finish with the yellow ones. For coating flat parts on a table however I've started just using a wide chip brush and doing a "flood coat" pretty thick and just brushing it out as smooth as I can. Wouldn't do that if i was going for extreme weight savings but it's a one and done method. If you can still see the wood fibers, pour on some more! I also sand the wood if I'm going to do that with 220 grit to keep the fuzzy grain rise to a minimum.
  6. We also use the wooster ones at the shop. (These). We like to buy the 7" ones and cut them in half on the bandsaw for use on a 3" roller cage. https://bandbyachtdesigns.com/wooster-brush-r730-7-tiz-foam-roller-cover-1-8-inch-nap-2-pack-7-inch/ two 7" rollers for $2.90 gives you four 3.5" rollers for about $0.75 each They are about 1/8" foam over cardboard and usually last through about 2-3 epoxy batches before the foam starts to get all floppy and then we just toss.
  7. Yeah do it! I got a dji mavic mini as a Christmas present. A very impressive machine. Graham also has the larger mavic pro.
  8. Come one come all! Sign up is now live on the B&B website. Let us know you're coming! For all the info (click here) or just go straight to the signup form. And we're planning to go back to our Friday night buffet dinner at Little Italy for which you can now get your tickets. I compiled some picture albums from past years. Check out here. I have a feeling we are going to be a really great Messabout this year. Here is some drone video from last year.
  9. I'm not crazy about the webbing strap for keeping the mast forward I think it will be too hard to keep it tight. I drew up a gate that would work and swing open. Some 1/8" aluminum scraps top and bottom through bolted through the cutout section make the swinging part. A couple of radiuses are made to allow it to swing open. I can send you a 1:1 paper template if you want to get the size.
  10. The resistance at the bottom is because the plywood side is bent and the break is allowing it to return to being flat and unfair. I would try hard to force it back to where it was but it will take some pushing. Easiest might be to wedge a stick inside the boat pushing out about 6" or so in front of the vertical part of that break you can tap it in with a hammer to dial it in. Like such... So, dryfit that and once happy, squirt a bunch of glue in the crack. Wedge it back out the fillet and tape inside and filler in the holes and glass tape/cloth on the outside and should be good as new. From what I can see i think you're good on the gunwale cut. I think i'd jus fill that up with thickened epoxy and clamp it back together. For filling holes i'd use cabosil thickened epoxy. Micro fibers or (milled fibers) won't hurt but nasty to sand it if you have to. cabosil is good enough. Just don't use microspheres or microbaloons for anything but fairing ontop of the glass repairs.
  11. I agree i would repair the crack in the side (aft seat tank area) first then the gunwale. That way also you can more easily run a hand saw up against the side of the hull when sawing into the gunwale crack. These days I pretty much always just lay my glass tape right onto my wet fillet right after I do it. You can wait a little while until it stiffens up but i'm too impatient. Once i have the joint ready to tape (in your case, sanded/ground and clean) I'd lay in my fillet, clean it up then mix my regular epoxy for the glass tape and paint a generous coat of epoxy above and below the fillet with the edge of my brush just grazing the edge of the fillet. If you're fillet mix is thick enough and stiff enough you can brush right over it gently. Then i lay the glass tape in and it immediately soaks up that coat. Then i brush on additional epoxy onto the glass tape and it usually doesn't' take much and it's done. If you put down too much epoxy and see runs just wipe your brush and wipe the excess up, repeat to remove some excess. Since you're doing repairs around paint i'd tape a piece of plastic like a bib under any repair area i work on when I do the repair so that if you do get an over excited drop of epoxy try to run down it won't leave a rude line of epoxy in the painted area. On the gunwale forward, there would be nothing practically wrong with adding a strip to the inside over the damage and as you said it would be covered. Personally I think it'd instead just put a couple of layers of glass tape on the inside running fore and aft along the top of the side panel adjacent the damaged area. You'll already have some glass there since the vertical panel crack goes all the way to the top but that would give a lot of good tensile strength to the inside of the panel to help out the gunwale which might not regain 100% of it's rigidity.
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