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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on August 30

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About Alan Stewart

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    Advanced Member
  • Birthday January 1

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    North Carolina, Raleigh
  • Supporting Member Since
    06/17/2019

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  1. Really like those stern bucket seats in the corners. Great pictures guys!
  2. Builders choice I think. The masts sections can be left loose or glued together. If made to be take apart then the bushings have to be wrapped and sanded to fit.
  3. I just checked this. They are actually the same beam the S12 is basically a stretched S11. But in actual fact I am pretty sure (Graham correct me) the S12 came first. I corrected the beam dimensions. S12 is 4' 7" plus or minus a few plane strokes.
  4. I hate that we're still waiting on your sails. I've been on their case about it. So sorry for the delay! Thank you for your great posts and kind words. You are an inspiring builder.
  5. Yeah, looks like a sweet model. You'd need a shrink ray to ride in it. 90% sure.
  6. This is the foam that Randy and Bobbie used on their Spendthrift it's really nice stuff. I bought it for my trimaran and it worked great. (disclosure note: this is an amazon affiliate link) https://amzn.to/3hIxajZ
  7. Just checked. No doubler under the corner radii on the S12 here at the shop. I think that little black thingy is a bug of some kind.
  8. On the Spindrift 12 some have probably doubled up those radii but I am pretty sure I've only seen it shown in Graham's design on the CS-17 and 20 and I added it to the CS-15 kit as well. It does give the ability to put a larger round-over on those edges.
  9. All muscle Don. Nate has been known to carry 2 or 3 sheets of 3/4 ply around under each arm to keep things interesting.
  10. Q: Is the plywood rudder strong enough? A: Yes* This morning we have some empirical test results to share. We just cut out Erik's new rudder today and we took the opportunity to look at the 18mm meranti plywood we use for the CNC cut rudder blades. Pictures attached show a test using our lovely assistant Nate who clocks in at 240lbs today. The test piece is a virgin piece of 18mm meranti marine plywood, 8 5/8" wide and the thickness is 0.707" (the closest handy piece of scrap). At 15" from the supported edge of our deck the ply showed roughly 2" deflection and no audible complain
  11. Erik, I am sorry to see that. All of our plywood rudders are meant to be fiberglassed with 8-10oz fiberglass cloth. Plywood is used for the rudders for the kit boats because it is dimensional stable and saves a lot of time in construction but half of the grain runs the wrong way as compared to a laminated solid wood rudder built in the same way as the centerboard. To compensate for this the plywood rudders should be glassed on both sides. I would not attempt to repair that rudder. Instead I would simply build a new one. One challenge may be that glassing the new rudder will make i
  12. Rudder looks ok to me. Hmm. On a beat the mizzen acts even more in the mains backwash which is why it sometimes feels on the verge of luffing. Sheeting it in harder is the natural reaction but this imbalances the forces. Causing weather helm. I wonder if this explains your helm? On the EC in our CS-20 i often experimented with the best trim on a beat. I found that keeping the boat perfectly balanced when trying to point (i.e. not sheeting in the mizzen more even when i could see it on the verge of luffing) was ever so slightly slower in light air. So i would sheet in the mizzen just a touch an
  13. Frank, I modeled 10 deg of mizzen rake (see below) and that seems like a LOT. as you said measurement error possibly. Do you have a current profile picture of the boat sitting in the water with masts up. If you get me a decent side picture from a ways off (like 10 boat lenghts or so then we can measure the rake in the photo very easily in Rhino. 10 deg would certainly cause weather helm. I am also suspicious of the rudder as this could cause what feels like weather helm if it's not going down all the way. Maybe try putting it down while the boat is on the trailer and send us a sid
  14. I think im going to try treating my mast tubes with an alodine cromate conversion coating. They make a "clear" alodine coating. This is a chem process like used on unpainted small aircraft. Or as a treatment before painting. The chemicals are a bit icky but its just brushed on or dipped and then rinsed off. The regular alodine leaves the aluminum a golden color which i dont think i want. If it works then i wont paint them just leave metallic. I spoke to a guy recently who was in the mast and later aircraft business and this is what they do. There are lots of youtube vids on it most
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