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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on October 23

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About Alan Stewart

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  1. It wasnt "easy" but it was pretty simple. We poured the keel between two trees for lifting purposes.
  2. Pete, id say you look to be missing the lower batten on the mainsail and perhaps a bit more downhaul. The 20mk3 did very well with the outboard in the well but im going to do some more playing and videoing soon and will share.
  3. Thought I would start a new thread on this. Here is where im putting all my pictures, feel free to add to this album! There is also some sailing video on facebook. https://photos.app.goo.gl/orS7YxLEPGa3Wkd2A
  4. If you were at the messabout last year then you saw the boat. Very nicely built and comes with everything you'd need. Sadly Jeremy passed away and the boat needs to be sold. It would be a great opportunity to pick up at our messabout and get a day or 2 of sailing experience with other CS-17s on the water. Please contact the number provided in the listing. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/awpcp-main-page/details/?id=36&fbclid=IwAR3b19kPbjkzRvsJPCwQsH-U8l3B_aFnDp1v6NifMMYHsUDZgnm5z22Cy60
  5. Justin, you definitely will need to take some material off the bottom of the bulkhead to allow for the keel glass thickness. I would scribe it with a pencil held flat against the hull and then grab a block plane to trim it or just a sanding block with some 60 or 80 grit paper. Likewise it looks like a gap on the sides just below the side stringers. The cutout (notch) in the top corners of the bulkhead for the side stringers should be widened/opened up if needed to allow the sides of the bulkhead to meed the side of the hull. Take material off the bottom of the bulkhead until the top edge of the bulkhead is flush with the tops of the side stringers. This goes for the forward lower bulkhead as well. Take material off the bottom of it as needed so that the top edge is flush with the tops of the side stringers. You can also round over the chine corners of the bulkheads to allow for the chine glassing/radius. Gaps are no problem if you take off too much material they will just be filled in with thickened epoxy when you glass the bulkheads in but again you want the top edges of the bulkheads flush with the tops of the side stringers and the sides of the bulkheads (ideally) sitting against the inside of the hull sides. That will set the width of the hull there as designed. You shouldn't need to take any material off the sides of the bulkheads. The transverse drainage channel piece (#28) is cut to the width of the inside faces of the stringers so technically the designed hull shape would have you push the hull out to let it drop down between them. However every piece of wood bends differently so what i would recommend is that once you get the forward lower BH and BH2 in place Just trim the ends of that piece to fit between the side stringers. The hull shape will be set by the bulkheads (1, 2, and the center frame) and the side stringer will keep the hull side fair so in this case pushing the hull out at to make the piece fit I think might make the hull less fair. You could always bend a batten (like a 3/4" x 3/4" square piece of clear wood) around the outside of the hull to see how fair it is. If there is a low spot between BH1 and BH2 then you could try pushing it out there to let piece 28 in but I don't think there will be. Piece #8A is a little square of plywood that is designed to go underneath the butt joint where the drain channel turns 90 degrees. It is shown in the side view of the interior construction plan. That piece strengthens the butt joint by sandwiching it between plywood. You could also put a piece of glass tape under (or all around for that matter) the joint. I would be sure to round-over all of the lower edges of the drainage channel pieces at least a 1/4". Piece #22 and #23 are supports for the center of the casting platform. Even if you're not planning to install a seat on the casting deck I would still recommend installing them to help support the casting deck. Hope that helps! It's looking good.
  6. We have been using some packing tape under the track and clamping it down into a bed of thickened epoxy and cleanout the squeeze out which forms a nice even wedge. Some choped up glass mixed in would add some strength (less britttleness).
  7. Justin, It looks like the hull squeezed in a bit without all the bulkheads in place while you glassed the chine. It looks close. I would keep pushing the hull out. You could drop in the upper forward bulkhead (the one that goes on top of the platform) just to help push it out. Clamp some 1x2 across the top and bottom of it to keep it from buckling or just use some 2x4 cut to the same length as a place holder. I saw you had it in place when you glued on the gunwales with is good. I would cut a piece of 2x4 about an inch wider than the fwd bulkhead and fit it between the side stringers just behind the bulkhead then you can tap it forward gradually which will push the sides out and take the pressure off your forward bulkhead so it can be glassed. I would also get that beam on the fwd bulkhead at the same time to stiffen it up.
  8. Looking good Mark! I found the interference you mentioned in the bottom-side joint and made a correction in the kit file. When we adjusted the hull panels to account for the neutral axis bending of the side panels the shape changed slightly. This won't effect anything going together. It's always nice to see measurements come on right. I saw it over and over with my kit but it remains a happy surprise that doesn't get old.
  9. Another option would be to have the tubes anodized before applying the fiberglass collars and installing the track. Graham has been collecting sulfuric battery acid thinking he might try some diy anodizing in his "extra" spare time. We probably all know about that mythical concept (spare time).
  10. No worries. Info and links area also at the top of the B&B website as well. www.bandbyachtdesigns.com
  11. Thanks Chick, i've never used an air sander like that but would like to try one. This question was asked on the youtube comments so I thought i'd repost it here re the fairing filler mix we used.
  12. Well, it IS easy if you do the prep. Also, we are impatient so i was determined to get it done this weekend but it would have been easier to break it into 3 days like doing the center section last after the sides. That was a bit tricky. I didnt video much of the 3 hours of sanding the hull with a 24" long sanding board to make sure it was as fair as it could be before starting also rounding the chines which is covered in the CS15 videos. I put as big a radius as i could on the chines. I planed down the side panel tabs then used the flush trim router to remove the botttom panel tabs but be careful as the angle changes along the length so you have to adjust the router tilt base angle for each tab. Then I used a power plane to put the chamfer (about 5/8" wide) on the chines then knocked the chamfer edges off with a plane and finally rounded smooth with the board sander (torture board) by hand with 80 grit. Stem was rounded to about a 5/8" diameter for 1/2" ss hollowback. Ill video the fairing process a bit better. Last night i went back and brushed a coat of my fairing filler mix on the corners (chines, stem, transom edges) and i added some more filler in some of the spots that got a bit of a light coat. Here is what the chines look like. Ill probably start sanding on it tuesday. The chines with an extra coat of the runny microspheres filler brushed on. I estimate that i added a full gallon of epoxy mixed with microspheres to fill the glass weave. and the keel And most of the surface I've also decided (well almost decided) to do the wood keel strip. I was thinking i wouldnt just to be different and maybe gain a bit of performance both in weight savings and drag but i think i want the stainless strip on the keel and an external strip is the easiest way to do that. Only other way i can think of would be to use t-nuts and glass over them on the inside because of the ballast tank. Oh, and ill probably throw a piece of glass on the transom afterall. My sanding board. 2 pieces of half sheet 3m spray adhesive to 6mm plywood with two blocks hot glued for handles.
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