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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on October 23 2019

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About Alan Stewart

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  • Birthday January 1

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  1. I've done that a few times. That is, pushing the mothership with the dinghy lashed behind against the transom not beside. I am skeptical that lashing along side is feasible but have not tried it. lashed behind works great BUT. It's fairly difficult to get setup and all steering is done from the dinghy since there is so much leverage. We would call back to the poor sap sitting back there to make course corrections as they couldn't see worth squat. I think I would just mount a small outboard bracket (perhaps a quickly removable one) on the main transom and if you ever do need a kicker, just take the small outboard off the dinghy and put it on the back of the mother-ship and perhaps have a connecting rod setup ready to go OR just be able to tiller steer it somehow. It may be hard to do that if there is some rough water but I'd say it's easier that than trying to set up the pusher configuration and deal with 2 boats bouncing around. Other options I could think of would be an electric backup. Could be a bolt on trolling pod like the kind that clamps to the outboards leg or cav plate. just bolt it on and your good to go. Probably not much umph or range but might be just enough to get the boat tucked away and on the hook so you can wait for a tow or work on the mechanical issues of the main motor.
  2. We recommend Douglas fir or pine for the keel. I would definitely coat it in epoxy but not fiberglass. The keel is bound to get scraped up and then the glass will make it a nightmare to repair. This was certainly the case when I refinished our CS-20. The glass was just totally useless. This keel was doug fir and held up well for 10 years despite scrapes and cuts etc. I did not replace it just cleaned it up, filled in some spots and re-coated it.
  3. Very nice work. That is shaping up to be a very nice dink.
  4. I think our primary thinking for painting my "locker" (singular for now) was as you said, to make things easier to find plus it makes the space look bigger. We plan to paint the entire inside of the cabin white also.
  5. I guess the thing to remember is that you're going to put the same amount of time and work into the console regardless of the ply you're using. For the hull of a boat then, It's easy to argue that you should use the best material possible. For an add-on console though I could see both sides. You might hate it or want to change it in a year or 2 and you might be more inclined to change it if you use a cheaper material. I don't know how much of a tinkerer you are or how nice you want it to look but depending on that I think there is nothing wrong with using regular 1/4" 3-ply for a console like you're describing. Epoxy coated well and sealed up it will probably look great. However sometimes these ply have large voids and big surface defects that make them harder to use can mess up paint jobs. If you wanted to buy from B&B I could quote you for the ply and shipping OR if you know the size of your largest parts you think you'll need we could rip a sheet in halves or quarters as needed to make shipping cheaper.
  6. It wasnt "easy" but it was pretty simple. We poured the keel between two trees for lifting purposes.
  7. Pete, id say you look to be missing the lower batten on the mainsail and perhaps a bit more downhaul. The 20mk3 did very well with the outboard in the well but im going to do some more playing and videoing soon and will share.
  8. Thought I would start a new thread on this. Here is where im putting all my pictures, feel free to add to this album! There is also some sailing video on facebook. https://photos.app.goo.gl/orS7YxLEPGa3Wkd2A
  9. If you were at the messabout last year then you saw the boat. Very nicely built and comes with everything you'd need. Sadly Jeremy passed away and the boat needs to be sold. It would be a great opportunity to pick up at our messabout and get a day or 2 of sailing experience with other CS-17s on the water. Please contact the number provided in the listing. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/awpcp-main-page/details/?id=36&fbclid=IwAR3b19kPbjkzRvsJPCwQsH-U8l3B_aFnDp1v6NifMMYHsUDZgnm5z22Cy60
  10. Justin, you definitely will need to take some material off the bottom of the bulkhead to allow for the keel glass thickness. I would scribe it with a pencil held flat against the hull and then grab a block plane to trim it or just a sanding block with some 60 or 80 grit paper. Likewise it looks like a gap on the sides just below the side stringers. The cutout (notch) in the top corners of the bulkhead for the side stringers should be widened/opened up if needed to allow the sides of the bulkhead to meed the side of the hull. Take material off the bottom of the bulkhead until the top edge of the bulkhead is flush with the tops of the side stringers. This goes for the forward lower bulkhead as well. Take material off the bottom of it as needed so that the top edge is flush with the tops of the side stringers. You can also round over the chine corners of the bulkheads to allow for the chine glassing/radius. Gaps are no problem if you take off too much material they will just be filled in with thickened epoxy when you glass the bulkheads in but again you want the top edges of the bulkheads flush with the tops of the side stringers and the sides of the bulkheads (ideally) sitting against the inside of the hull sides. That will set the width of the hull there as designed. You shouldn't need to take any material off the sides of the bulkheads. The transverse drainage channel piece (#28) is cut to the width of the inside faces of the stringers so technically the designed hull shape would have you push the hull out to let it drop down between them. However every piece of wood bends differently so what i would recommend is that once you get the forward lower BH and BH2 in place Just trim the ends of that piece to fit between the side stringers. The hull shape will be set by the bulkheads (1, 2, and the center frame) and the side stringer will keep the hull side fair so in this case pushing the hull out at to make the piece fit I think might make the hull less fair. You could always bend a batten (like a 3/4" x 3/4" square piece of clear wood) around the outside of the hull to see how fair it is. If there is a low spot between BH1 and BH2 then you could try pushing it out there to let piece 28 in but I don't think there will be. Piece #8A is a little square of plywood that is designed to go underneath the butt joint where the drain channel turns 90 degrees. It is shown in the side view of the interior construction plan. That piece strengthens the butt joint by sandwiching it between plywood. You could also put a piece of glass tape under (or all around for that matter) the joint. I would be sure to round-over all of the lower edges of the drainage channel pieces at least a 1/4". Piece #22 and #23 are supports for the center of the casting platform. Even if you're not planning to install a seat on the casting deck I would still recommend installing them to help support the casting deck. Hope that helps! It's looking good.
  11. We have been using some packing tape under the track and clamping it down into a bed of thickened epoxy and cleanout the squeeze out which forms a nice even wedge. Some choped up glass mixed in would add some strength (less britttleness).
  12. Justin, It looks like the hull squeezed in a bit without all the bulkheads in place while you glassed the chine. It looks close. I would keep pushing the hull out. You could drop in the upper forward bulkhead (the one that goes on top of the platform) just to help push it out. Clamp some 1x2 across the top and bottom of it to keep it from buckling or just use some 2x4 cut to the same length as a place holder. I saw you had it in place when you glued on the gunwales with is good. I would cut a piece of 2x4 about an inch wider than the fwd bulkhead and fit it between the side stringers just behind the bulkhead then you can tap it forward gradually which will push the sides out and take the pressure off your forward bulkhead so it can be glassed. I would also get that beam on the fwd bulkhead at the same time to stiffen it up.
  13. Looking good Mark! I found the interference you mentioned in the bottom-side joint and made a correction in the kit file. When we adjusted the hull panels to account for the neutral axis bending of the side panels the shape changed slightly. This won't effect anything going together. It's always nice to see measurements come on right. I saw it over and over with my kit but it remains a happy surprise that doesn't get old.
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