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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on March 21

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About Alan Stewart

  • Birthday January 1

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    New Bern, NC
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  1. Hey Richard, I think you need to change the permissions on the link to your album. It's asking me to request access.
  2. Yeah, forecast could be better but we will keep fingers crossed. Hopefully not much rowing. Yep got the bowstring and headsail ready. One pic of each B&B boat below. Lots more in my album.
  3. We have arrived at the start beach. Today we stage the boat on the beach and have the captains meeting this afternoon. Tomorrow we shove off at 7am.
  4. I cannot think of a problem with putting the water pickup inside the bracket other than that it won't be functional while the boat is on plane and at some speed before planning as the water starts to separate from the bottom of the bracket. If the pickup is for something like a bait well and not needed underway then I'd say it's a good spot for it since it won't interfere with the bottom at all. I'd put it in the center bay nearer to the transom.
  5. Great job, I like that bright fendering! Thank you for weighing the boat, so few builders report back their weights.
  6. Posting for the Watertribe Chief who is selling his boat. The boat was professionally finished by B&B and sailed in the NCC in 2022. From Chief..... “My Core Sound 17 Mark 3 is up for sale. This is a great boat and I will be sorry to see her go. Items included are shown below: Core Sound 17 Mark 3 recently completed in 2022. Continental Trailer model EW1620V-2000 virtually new Torqeedo Motor TRAVEL 1103 3 92 AH Batteries Solar Charging Panel Shore Power Multi Bank Charging Fully Rigged 3 Beach Rollers with hand pump And More Visit the B&B site for info about this boat: B&BYachtDesigns.com Asking $18,000 for all.” Please communicate to Chief through the website Discussion link or express your interest here with your contact information. " Email him: chief@watertribe.com Or use the watertribe forum where he posted this. https://watertribe.org/forums/topic/core-sound-17-mark-3-for-sale Video of the entire boat inside and out: Drone Video from the NCC race:
  7. Steve just posted this video on fb of him and Amos motoring down the dismal swamp canal in their 20mk3s https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=870386847994274&id=1254327796&mibextid=ZbWKwL
  8. A round hole in the side shouldn't need any extra reinforcement. Where does it say to put it in the top in the plans? Must be a typo. Defenitely put them in the sides.
  9. Got it Tom thanks. I add a zero option on the sign up form. Good catch.
  10. That should make a good gunwale. I think its fine on the interior. But id also consider if you'll have a soft bumper on the outside of the gunwale like gunnel guard. Graham still has a bunch of old firehouse he uses for this. In that case typically a lot of fasteners will be going into it. Graham started using "pamlico teak" also known as good old pressure treated deck boards ripped up and let dry for a few weeks. This way fasteners causing the wood to rot is not nearly as much of a concern. On his last dinghy he held the firehose on with monel staples. Adhering the gunnel guard with 5200 is possible but tricky but that would be the best.
  11. Good job on the repair, i had little doubt you could repair and re-fold. I've seen the additional crack before too. I think gluing a ply doubler on the inside isn't a bad idea but I also think the normal keel fillet and chine glass and a bit of extra glass should be sufficient. An additional glass patch over that area on the inside would be a good idea as well. This will also give you some thickness there for when you eventually need to sand down the "bump" the crack created. Maybe do the keel and chine glassing first and then decide if you want to put the extra ply doubler over the new crack spot. As for the chine gap at the forward bulkhead. I think you should just live with it. The forward bulkhead has always been a tricky shape to fit to the developed ply which doesn't always bend exactly on the ruling lines we tell it to in the computer and also the computer can't take into account the slight amount of compound curvature that the ply does take on in real life. Gaps of say not more than ~1/4" on the edges of the forward bulkhead against the hull bottom are ok in my book. Thickened epoxy is a great gap filler! On the chine itself, I wouldn't worry too much about getting it to close that last little bit. If it really bothers you I would tweak the bottom of the forward bulkhead (take off some material) say at the keel where it looks like it's hitting in your picture but the most important thing is just getting it as close to the lines on the ply sides as you can and at the right height vertically. If it's sitting a bit high then yeah feel free to trim it a bit. Also, on the outside you can use a one sided block to pull the edge of the bottom panel in a bit if it's extending out beyond the side panel This helps keep the chine line from drooping at the bow if you do have a gap. Like the picture below.
  12. Bryan, defenitely repairable for another go folding. I'm out of town this weekend away from my pics from other builds but basically just glue the crack with epoxy and put a piece of glass over the crack inside and out and clamp nice and flat. At least half a dozen builders over the many years have sucessfully repaired from a crack during folding. Wait a few days before second attempt epoxy is still pretty flexible after 2 days. Full properties in about 7 days in my testing. I'd give it a full 72 hrs maybe a bit less if you apply some gentle heat. (Not more than 100 deg or so so). On the nesting bulkhead in this picture it looks like your ratchet stap is actually keeping the bottom from flattening. The chine edge needs to be able to extend past the corner of the bulkhead but the strap is holding it back. Instead just slide some boards under the keel at the bulkhead and support the keel at that point and the gap should easily close. That sounds like maybe what you were going to try next.
  13. Hey Musicman, sorry for the cool reception on your request. I'd be happy to walk you through the setup if you want. We could do a facetime call if you wanted to have a second set of eyes on it. It looks like you've got the stail track. Setup goes something like this.... Install both masts making sure you've got the halyards run up and down. Hank on the mizzen sail and attach the mizzen halyard. hank on main sail and halyard. Launch the boat. hoist the mizzen sail and cleat the halyard attach the mizzen sprit to the mizzen clew and snotter blocks on the front of the mizzen mast. hook up the mizzen downhaul (usually hook with 2:1 purchase) Pull some tension on the mizzen downhaul and mizzen snotter. Connect the mizzen sheet and keep it loose if you're still at the dock. hoist the main sail and cleat the halyard. connect main downhaul and sprit boom. connect main sheet. Thats pretty much it.
  14. Well I think you can do it easily. Dont listen to those guys. He said he had ppl who could get him if he comes up short so not really anything to lose trying. Also the 20 is faster than the 17. 30 miles is only 6hrs at 5kts. In any fresh breeze you'll be doing 6-7kts and could easily make the miles. You will have to cross your fingers for some northerly winds however. And plan on storms. There's always storm's in the bay. Shoot I'd do it.
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