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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on February 24

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About Alan Stewart

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  • Birthday January 1

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    North Carolina, Raleigh
  1. We found the sail very easy to handle. For single handing the continuous line could be run all the way to the stern of the boat even. The top swivel we were using was a bit sticky and the whole arrangement meant that in lighter winds we had to positively "unfurl" the sail when we wanted it out. It would unfurl about half way but then to get the last twists out of the top we would have to pull the furling line the other way to take some torsion out of the taught line. The best part about it was that it furls with no hassle in strong winds. Because of this we used the spinnaker much more than any other year because it was so accessible and I know it made us faster. With this asymmetrical spinnaker we can sail about 30 deg. off the wind and gybe downwind when downwind is our goal. Deeper than that and the sail doesn't get enough clear air. We carried the sail up to about 15 knots and then switched to wing and wing. If I had to guess, in 15 knots of breeze we maybe gain about 1/2 a knot of vmg by gybing downwind with the spinnaker versus sailing dead down wind wing and wing. In 10 knots of wind it might be closer to a knot faster vmg with the spinnaker. We left the sail up, furled almost the entire time in the EC this year only taking it down when we had to paddle hard into the wind to get out of a narrow pass at the checkpoint and didn't want the extra windage.
  2. Drew, I had the same question. Unfortunately that would only work to furl the sail in about half way and then it would bind up. Once the top half of the sail starts to wind onto the torsion line then the whole thing goes and the tack starts wrapping up as well. We found the best was to just keep winding and all the spinnaker sheets were taken up (wrapped around the sail) and all out of the way.
  3. Spindrift 11n build in process

    This one is on me. When I updated the Spindrift 11 N Kit, I totally re-did the plan sheets and I see that I showed what would correctly be interpreted as solid timber on the king plank/mast partner piece. As Graham pointed out, he intended this to be plywood to avoid the possibility of a crack forming which makes good sense. Adding a layer of 1/4" ply underneath the aft part of the mast collar piece will accomplish the same result. I will update that part of the construction plan sheet to reflect that this piece should be 3 layers of 6mm ply as originally intended. The side cleats and forward bulkhead beam are still solid timber. I re-combed through the plans and you should rest assured that the "original" plans that Graham posted the top corner of for clarification don't show any other better or different information than what you have. The boat changed shape ever so slightly when we 3D modeled all of the parts in minute detail in order to achieve a high level of accuracy for producing the kit version. We then used that shape to re-update the cutout sheet for the boat which is built from plans so that all S11 hulls going forward would be the same (kit or plan). Finally, I think your build is very excellent and it looks to me as though you have produced a very fair and accurate hull from the plans which is very gratifying to us. I can't wait to see picture of her sailing around.
  4. Everglades Challenge time again

    Dawn Patrol is for sale.
  5. Everglades Challenge time again

    Here at the finish line. will report any news. the wind has shifted more east and many boats are now starting across the bay but then turning back and opting the southern route. we were lucky to come across with a nw wind.
  6. Everglades Challenge time again

  7. Everglades Challenge time again

    We're going as fast as we can
  8. Rating the Coresound 20 Mk3

    Drew, It took me a google or two to see a reference to that index rating. I'm still not sure how its calculated but I had done some analysis of the 20m3k hull with and without water ballast previously. Attached below is a pdf of the graphs (imperial units at the moment sorry). Both the ballasted and un-ballasted cases assume no crew aboard and i did one with two crew sitting on the wrong side which could simulate a very poorly executed gybe perhaps. Interestingly the masts (if sealed) provide a not insignificant amount of righting just after capsize. A good reason to seal all those rivet holes. This effect presents as a second "hump" in the righting moment curve after 90 deg is passed again assuming the masts don't take on water. While not shown, the weight of the sails is accounted for. It is assumed that the centerboard stays in the down position. Which may or may not be the case. We have thought about adding a cleatable downhaul line for the CB to make sure it stays down in a situation like this when sailing in deep water. Also note that the cockpit coamings are not included at all as part of the buoyant volume although they would help the down-flooding angle slightly. At 110 deg, the cockpit hatch is still above water. Here is a link to the files, they were too big to upload here.... https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1a5RWgDJGvyTCfyEOj0PosHYcIn2pxI0B?usp=sharing
  9. OC20/B in Biloxi MS USA

    Looks sweet.
  10. Rating the Coresound 20 Mk3

    223 1/2" or 5.67m. Good Luck! We are interested to see how it goes. We have some buoy racing here in our area on the Neuse river but we tend to just go camping or to the beach when we have free time and haven't gotten into the social racing scene yet. Back in the day Graham used to race Spindrift 10s with all the builders here. I wish i was there for those days. I would love to have an active Spindrift race fleet again.
  11. Rating the Coresound 20 Mk3

    Since there are only a few 20mk3s out and about I think you may be the only one blazing this trail. As far as the Everglades Challenge goes it's very non-ratings based. In fact it's not even a consideration. "Run what you brung" as they say. All sailboats are lumped together and only differentiated by number of crew (1 person or 2 people or...now...3 people aboard) since that is a much larger factor in speed for the sailors since a two person crew does not have to stop if they have a cabin or shelter for sleep aboard. The only thing that matters is finish time.
  12. Taylor and Alan's CS-20 MK3 #15

    Thanks Steve and Don. The paint is sprayed on Alexseal two part poly with Awlgrip spray converter and thinned 25% with Awlgrip spray reducer. Alexseal paint is slightly cheaper and we prefer Awlgrips converter and reducer as it just seems to work better. It is one of my best paint jobs and i'm very happy with it. The blue on the transom promptly printed trough as expected but still nice and glossy. Chick, I can dream
  13. Taylor and Alan's CS-20 MK3 #15

    Hey All, Finally resurrecting this thread!!! Some may recall that this thread was started when my wife and I begun building our new Core Sound 20 Mark 3. This was put on pause so I could overhaul the CS-20. Well that project took over a year! So we finally got back to working on our new 20 Mk3 and have been picking away at it in our "new" garage space that is now heated (so nice). Here is a link to the album of the new boat (for which this thread was started). https://photos.app.goo.gl/22Tfg2WR5pTSBHyw1 I don't plan on doing step by step videos for the 20 mk3 build although i wish i could they are just too time consuming. Instead I will be taking many many pictures and then doing "wrap up" video tours at various stages where I show everything that has been done and discuss any issues or tricky points. Look for that soon. (After the EC). We're wrapping up the overhaul of the Core sound 20 that my Dad and I built in 2007. Here is the original build thread of the boat: http://messing-about.com/forums/topic/5411-core-sound-20-hull-103/ Here is the picture album of the overhaul which is ongoing. Latest pictures from this past weekend. The boat must be ready in time for heading down to Florida for the Everglades Challenge next Thursday. https://goo.gl/photos/GAfPCXY1yCaTj7ok8
  14. Spindrift 12 build log

    Mini grinder with a 36grit sandpaper disk and a steady hand. it doesn't need to be a perfect fit just close. epoxy takes care of the rest.
  15. Aussie CS 20-3#5 "Dragonfly 2"

    Drew, This is definitely an issue on the Mk3 with the masts in tabernacles and now more-so that we have added a mizzen tabernacle to the design in the latest version of the kit. Graham originally split his hatch (drop-boards, wash-boards, whatever you want to call em) horizontally into two so that he could remove them and stow them more easily. Personally, I thought having two boards was a pain but there is no doubt the two are easier to stow. I like what Jay and Caroll did on their 20mk3. It is split vertically down the middle and the doors hinge out like shutters but this can get in the way of cleats and is maybe not as waterproof although it seems to work just fine for them. They also have theirs on lift-off hinges so they can be stowed in nice weather. In any case, I came up with a change (see below) that we have incorporated into the ever-evolving 20mk3 kit. Now we have a 1 piece drop board which can be cut into two if the builder wished. The tapered sides means that the hatch only has to lift a few inches in order to be released from the front and back lips. This is in no way a new idea and these can be sort of awkward to drop in when you miss the edges but in my experience, you get used to what you have.

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