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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on June 29

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About Alan Stewart

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  • Birthday January 1

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    North Carolina, Raleigh
  • Supporting Member Since
    06/17/2019

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  1. Page 136 of "the book" covers bonding fasteners and resin bushing holes. https://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/GougeonBook-061205-1.pdf An excellent practice for all hardware on a wood boat. If all bolts and screws are drilled, filled, and drilled then all the better for preventing water from getting to the wood and causing swelling which will crack an epoxy joint in no time. Especially watch out for fasteners into long pieces of solid wood such as the transom beam. For bedding compound I use butyl rubber and make a little doughnut of it around the washer of my fastener or on the contact pad of the piece of hardware. It oozes out nicely, seals the joint and does not harden. Same stuff they used to install windows in RVs. This much would least you for years and years. Store it in a plastic bag because it does dry out a little after the first year or so (like play dough). https://www.amazon.com/White-Butyl-Tape-Mobile-Single/dp/B07BJLHH24/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=butyl+tape&qid=1593041102&sr=8-5 They also make a butyl rubber caulk which is more pasty for bedding things with more surface area where the tape which is more or a soft pliable rubber would be too stiff to be squeezed by the fasteners. So for something like the Eye bolt I'd use butyl rubber or nothing because it would only leak into the anchor well or onto the deck so it doesn't really need to be watertight. Also be very careful when installing hardware not to crank down mindlessly on the nut our you will simply crush the wood and and thus crack the epoxy seal. I try to never use power drivers to install fasteners to the final tightness because it's so easy to over torque them.
  2. Yeah, Chick that trick really works!!! couldn't believe it. So I guess the darn thing needed a little priming bulb all this time.
  3. A few more pics added to the album. here https://photos.app.goo.gl/AyA94oj8gcvfVes77
  4. Here are some pictures from the cruise https://photos.app.goo.gl/AyA94oj8gcvfVes77
  5. You should see Graham Shortly. Here is a link to his spot Tracker. http://share.findmespot.com/shared/faces/viewspots.jsp?glId=0rHV7uRsIrA70G3AZ0dslOpt3fiTW79jj
  6. Graham is putting his finishing touches on Jeanie today.
  7. If you've every though your B&B boats rigging was too complicated like the Core Sound 20 mark 3 for example with reefing lines lead back to the cockpit. I submit into evidence the following rigging draft for the Class Globe 5.80 that Don posted to facebook to put it into perspective. Our rigging only scratches the surface of what "spaghetti" looks like.
  8. I have some video from my Core sound 20 mark 3 build that has another example of glassing the bottom. While is a larger area I don't think it's more difficult to do. My most current preferred and order of operations is... -sand the bottom as you've done. -Fill in all the little voids -lay down the glass cloth (immediately after previous step so no sanding) -spread epoxy to soak in and squeegee off any excess. There will be a lot of glass texture. -Finally Squeegee on a layer of micro-sphere (easily sanded fairing filler) thickened epoxy to fill the weave within the curing window of previous step. The best trick for working with big pieces of glass is to not try to remove wrinkles at the site of the wrinkle. That is hopeless. Instead move to the edges and grip a short section of edge maybe a dozen fibers or so and slowly pull them and watch the wrinkle magically disappear. Move to the other edge, locate where the fibers for the wrinkle you want gone run out of the piece and pull in that spot. presto wrinkles gone.
  9. That is lucky, when they don't come off and you just start pulling they can wedge on there forever. I've had some i had to walk away from after doing that and using all manner of icicle hitch, come-along, tractor, tree etc etc.
  10. They may in fact work i.e. be strong enough but they are a totally different spar to the sprit. The sprit is in compression like a spinnaker pole. The maximum loads are in the middle when it is slightly deflected from a straight line which is how the ends can be tapered without weakening it. By comparison a windurfer mast is just like our freestanding masts and never in compression only bending so the tip normally sees almost no loads and the base sees the max loading (neglecting the booms). So it may work but one end will be extra fat for no reason. If you had a few you could cut the tops off and join them to make one that tapers out from the center in both directions that would make a pretty nice sprit.
  11. Congrats on the launch! Yup, always carry a bailer probably more so with the nesting version. Were you able to re-board after righting or just swam it in?
  12. Padre, Thank you for sharing. What a heartwarming post. My best wishes to you and your family! We are humbled by the continued support or our loyal builders. Thank you. -Alan
  13. Don, thats awesome! I just put that plan on the site last week. Glad it worked for you with the paper templates. Thanks for sharing.
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