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Alan Stewart

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Alan Stewart last won the day on August 27

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About Alan Stewart

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  • Birthday January 1

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    North Carolina, Raleigh

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  1. Alan Stewart

    Capt Bones Core Sound 17 Mk 3 #14 Kit Build?

    Hmmm... well I do sort of see what you mean there. Worthy of an extra sentence in the plans perhaps, "Do what we mean not what we say"? It had not dawned on me that your slots were actually a solution to a different problem. I have it on good authority that Graham and I could not be more pleased with your progress thus far and if every boat looked the same what a boring forum this would be! The goal is not to end up with a perfect boat, only one that you are proud of and I have little doubt you will proudly display your boat when the dust settles and leave the cover at home.
  2. Alan Stewart

    Capt Bones Core Sound 17 Mk 3 #14 Kit Build?

    The drawing above is not to scale as it relates to the overhang of the stern off the trailer. Graham's trailer extends back about 6 feet behind the axle which puts it close to the transom actually but that is not really by design. We always try to make a point of keeping the bunks flat in the stern section i.e. not giving much support to the boat so as not to hinder launching but rollers back there on the keel are always a good thing. If the trailer bunks matched the rocker of the hull you would need to push the boat "uphill" off the trailer. So it is okay to have a fair amount of overhang on the trailer in my opinion and indeed I have quite a bit on my CS17 but It does make strapping the boat down easier with a longer trailer perhaps if you want to make use of the stern u-bolts for that purpose. -Alan
  3. Alan Stewart

    Capt Bones Core Sound 17 Mk 3 #14 Kit Build?

    We just measured Graham's boat on the trailer. Results below. If I had to guess I would say the tongue weight is about 100lbs which is about right I think at approx 10% of the load which I think is recommended.
  4. Alan Stewart

    Capt Bones Core Sound 17 Mk 3 #14 Kit Build?

    Fitting the tubes together can be a bit fiddly. We came up with another way one day when we were forced to join two tubes very quickly to get a job done and didn't have time to do collars and sanding and fitting and glue up. The method is to wrap the "inner" tube in some glass then lay two pieces of tape in an "X" across the bottom. This is done while wetting out the glass and then the tube is just shoved into the larger tube. We dry fir the glass to make sure it would go in but just barely then when it was pushed in the epoxy took up the rest and the tubes stayed nicely concentric. As i recall we braced the larger tube against something like a tree and then tapped it in the last few bits to the mark and then sliced off the ends of the glass that flowered out. Here is a picture of the method. The one down side is if you want to run wires in the mast you have to bust through the two layers of tape with a rod afterward but that is not so bad. New method of joinging mast tubes.pdf
  5. Alan Stewart

    STILL ON-->B&B Messabout 2018

    Just a reminder that we are still full steam ahead for the annual B&B Messabout at our shop. http://bandbyachtdesigns.com/messabout/ Many in our state are still suffering the effects of Hurricane Florence (still underwater even) but we are fortunate that the water has receded and our cleanup efforts seem to be working. We hope this will be another fun filled gathering of all our friends and family in our little corner of the world to enjoy good weather (fingers crossed), good company, good food, and great boats. We are also planning to start an new Messabout tradition. A RACE (yes race) although informal from Chapel Creek just off our dock to some point off Vandemere perhaps a marker to be determined and back to the dock. It is a short course. The idea simply is to get everyone out on the water together. No classes or anything just whatever you brought. Kayaks and tenders may run a shorter course to be determined. In fact it's really all "to be determined" but we'll determine it before you arrive so just bring your boat and a paddle or sails and we'll see you there. Some sort of perpetual trophy will be given! Hope to see you all there.
  6. Alan Stewart

    oil and epoxy

    I think my approach would be to scrub the area with soap and water maybe even 80 grit sandpaper with soap and water then let dry thouroughly and I think it should be fine.
  7. Alan Stewart

    B&B Preps for Florence

    We just got power back on at my house. Graham also reported having power yesterday. We have been very impressed with the work of the linemen and women who have restored power lines very quickly. We had a pole down and wires in the road when we first tried to get to the shop and the next day it was up and replaced with a new pole. I was expecting it to be down for a least a few days. To clarify, still no power at the shop itself but maybe soon...we hope. We started power washing out the shop yesterday. I expect it will take us at least a couple of weeks to be back up to "normal". Nick, glad your parts were prepared for a flood. Sorry about the garage I know how much work it is to clean out. We also have quite a few particle board shelf units at our shop which were good at the time (free) but now have to be rebuilt properly. I HATE particle board for anything that has to last more than a few days.
  8. Alan Stewart

    B&B Preps for Florence

    Graham made it out to the shop today. He reported both shops looked "good". I put in quotes because he was talking to me and I knew what he meant in relation to previous flooding. I felt that we did some good prep for this one and took nearly 2 days prepping the shop for innundation at least as bad as Irene. Thanks so much to my parents Paul and Dawn who came down to help. We literally could not have gotten the shop ready without them. Today we've been obeying the curfew and cleaning up our yard with one trip out to bring some extra stuff to a local shelter that is set up at Taylor's school. One pic of a branch that speared the edge of our roof.
  9. Alan Stewart

    B&B Preps for Florence

    Taylor and I made it back to new bern just this morning along with my mom Dawn to help out. Our house is fine. We took a trip out to Bayboro but were not able to reach the shop due to high water flooded over the only road to it Lynch's beach loop rd. We detoured to check on Graham and Carla's house which was also ok. We had about 6in less water than hurricane Irene. Later we did get some info on the shop from Patrick who made it through maybe after the water went down a bit. Innundation was consistent with Vandemere. We had about 8in of water in our main shop with the CNC machine and about 40in in the lower shop. We hope all of our preperations were enough to reduce our losses but it will take time to put everything back together after essentially dismantling the shop to move it up onto shelves, horses or barrels. Randy and Bobbie's gazebo may not be salvagable. It floated off its blocks again. Status of floating dock unknown but likely still tied to the trees just didnt see it in the pictures. Graham was planning to be back in Vandemere this afternoon. I will try to get out there again tomorrow. Curfew is in effect. No power. Hope to regain power in new bern soon but likely not at the shop for some time.
  10. Alan Stewart

    B&B Preps for Florence

    Here are some pictures from our preparations at the shop from today. Our shop is closed up and is as ready as we could make it. Please Florence, spare us your worst. https://photos.app.goo.gl/9uqAHqq1CBe2uu939
  11. Alan Stewart

    Seattle CS17 Mk3 Launch

    Fred and Peg, Fantastic pictures and great reporting. Congrats on the launch. The boat looks wonderful. I really like the laminated boomkin too, nice touch. Your suspicions are correct unfortunately we cannot attend this year. Graham had a great time last year and I wanted to go but it wasn't possible this year. I can send you some promotion stuff. I'll get on that right away. Thanks for the pictures! -Alan P.S. sorry we didn't get back to you re the fwd hatch strut kit thingy. I think it got away from us with the shop being so busy. did you come up with something?
  12. Alan Stewart

    Core Sound 20 Mark 3 Build - Chesapeake, VA

    Amos, You should be very proud of that fine looking vessel. We are jealous! I find myself lately dreaming that i'm sleeping in mine (all finished of course) hanging off the anchor in the bight of Cape Lookout. Can't wait. That boat will be a treasure for your family for decades! -Alan
  13. Alan Stewart

    Taylor and Alan's CS-20 MK3 #15

    Aug 27 Update: We've got some momentum now. It feels good to glue in parts. We spent a good part of Sat. and Sun. working on the boat. Earlier in the week Taylor filleted and taped the aft side of BH5 into place and on Sat we installed the port side of BH4 and got all of the seams between BH1 and BH2 taped. Below, BH4 is split into 3 pieces in the updated version of the CS-20 Mk3. This allows the center panel to be installed after the ballast tank is glassed like a bathtub which will hopefully eliminate the possibility of any leaks. To the left, the BH is cutout and the space behind it is storage at the end of the port bunk. To the right the panel is solid because it will be the front side of the Cooler box. We're planning to copy Graham's Cooler design. The right side panel is normally also cutout but I cut a new one out of scrap. The hole could have been filled in with scrap but i had a big enough piece so i just remade it. Here I am dryfitting the 3 together while gluing in the port side part to keep everything square and lined up. A clamp was needed at the top to pull in the gunwale just slightly. Had about 1/8" gap between the hull side and frame in the middle of the panel which is normal. We always leave gaps like that alone so as not to "dimple" the hull. Below: a view from the stern. BH5, BH4, BH3 (with companionway cutout). Note the gap for the CB trunk on the port side and a thin 1/4" gap on the stbd side of BH4 for the starboard cockpit side. Below: A view of the keel between BH1 and BH2. All the glassing and taping is done in this area. Next up will be installing the cleats to support the forward locker top and final epoxy coats inside the locker. I'll also be installing an inspection port in the bottom of the BH1 to gain access to the space underneath the anchor locker well. On Sunday we installed the pre-coated and sanded starboard cockpit side panel. The tabs and wedges worked excellent to pull the part down tight to the hull. Taylor got straight to work filleting and taping the outside joint. Below: At the same time, we installed the starboard piece of BH4 and glassed it in. This box completes the sides of what will be our cooler space. Next in here will be blocking in blue insulation foam. The center panel of BH4 was again used to maintain the space and keep the frames square and true. It is not glued in yet and won't be until after the ballast tank is glassed. Meanwhile, I've got the centerboard trunk (also the port cockpit side) coated and almost ready to install. I still need to drill the CB pivot hole out. I plan to make a 90 jig for the drill and drill it by hand rather than try to line it up on the drill press.
  14. Alan Stewart

    Taylor and Alan's CS-20 MK3 #15

    Back to work! Taylor and I took a hiatus from building last month and left on vacation. We spent a long week on Mount Desert Island camping in the Acadia national park and did all the things up there. Very relaxing and no cell service so even better. Then we flew down to Mexico and spent a week with 3 work friends of Taylors and made use of my Uncle's condo on Isla Mujeres. If anyone is interested in a great Mexico family vacation I can recommend an excellent condo rental :) Below is a shot of the CB trunk just before closing it up. Even more pictures are on my album... https://photos.app.goo.gl/22Tfg2WR5pTSBHyw1 Note in the top left i decided to cut off the corner of the trunk just to avoid having a little empty space there. Probably another small change we'll make to the kit. The trunk and lid is glassed of course and sanded and got a final coat of epoxy before bonding the two halves together. Below you can see three aluminum rails I used to ensure the trunk was straight and flat. These I salvaged out of our closets in the house when we changed them out to have closet rods. They make handy I-beam type straight edges. The trunk has been sitting out for a while now unfinished and had warped a bit so it was important to dry fit the setup all together to make sure it would be flat and straight and free of twist during the glue up since once the lid goes down it becomes very rigid. I also added a temporary piece of wood inside the trunk the same thickness as the framing near the bottom edge with plastic tape on either side to keep it from sticking to the trunk. The purpose to maintain the width of the trunk when installed until the bottom gets cut open. The trunk all glued up.... Meanwhile, Taylor expertly filleted and taped the aft edges of BH2 in place. The two fwd bulkhead are fully tack welded into place and the fwd bulkhead is fully glassed in on the front side already but BH2 has no glass until now. The space between BH1 and 2 also needs glass which will be one of the next jobs. Finally, we filleted and taped the chines making sure the transom was in place and we checked the width of the boat at BH5 to ensure the side flare was very close to the finished shape which it was. Below you can see BH5 is sitting in place while the chines cure. Later that evening I went back to brush on a fill coat of epoxy on the chines but being out of practice I used too much epoxy and when i checked it about an hour later i had many runs of epoxy down the inside of the bottom. Oops. Fortunately not too late to clean up. I think going forward we will try to use more peel ply for the glass taping where it's just straight easy runs. The peel ply creates a surface tension to hold the epoxy on top of the glass tape resulting in a smooth surface that does not sanding or epoxy fill coats later.
  15. Alan Stewart

    Utah OB20

    Carter, Keep on sanding. Those shiny spots (if well cured) will not stick well to the next coats of epoxy. I wouldn't worry about accidentally sanding a bit into the glass on the large flat areas but around the chine and any joints I would sand as minimally as possible to maintain the glass fibers over the joint. In a perfect world, all the glass weave is filled with coats of epoxy or slathered with epoxy+microspheres mixture while the glass/epoxy is still within the curing window but sometimes you just can't. If there is a spot where you feel the glass just isn't there anymore you can just put a patch over it and fair it in with the primer coats. -Alan
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