Alan Stewart

we're watching the smoke not looking to hot today. Put in Bay just south of middle bass island https://putinbay.com/put-in-bay-webcams/

Looks awesome Richard. Can't wait to see it on the water. I'm right behind you!

Epoxy always needed on everything everywhere. That's the best method. The epoxy is a barrier to moisture. Moisture makes wood shrink and swell. Shrinking and swelling causes cracks. Cracks let in more moisture. Full epoxy encapsulation of all wood is the best most long lived way. Okoume plywood is not very rot resistant at all. If it's wet it will rot in a couple seasons. The Gougeon Brothers built the adagio Trimaran in 1969 and she's still going strong. All epoxy and plywood bonded and i'm sure every bit is coated in epoxy.

I wouldn't bother if it's going to get 10oz over it later but I am a fan of putting down 4oz on something if i need to finish it quickly but you still usually need a "fill coat" on top of the glass if you want it smooth. If you put too much epoxy then the glass just floats and you still get the weave. I find the best is to do a heavy coat on the bare wood and put the 4oz glass down and let it soak up the epoxy and let that set up then a few hours later come back and coat that again as a fill coat. OR use peel ply over the 4oz then it's a 1 step and done. It is heavier than 3 coats though. If the parts are flat on the table though you can just do a heavy flood coat but it's hard to know how much there is and easy to use a LOT. Sand the ply smooth with 220 before you coat if you want to try to do a one step flood coat for best finish else you could still get some wood grain/fuzz rough texture on it.

Planning to store the boat in the garage so that solves that. Big Garage = fewer problems

I'm trying to get INTO the shop more. Normalize on board 3d printers!

Thanks Steve, I'm feeling motivated and have been enjoying doing lots of "add to cart" activities. Keeping the pressure on and doing lots of small tasks each day. I need to be painting the cockpit in about a week and half so.... Tabernacles glassed, mast tube collars made, Rudder cheeks glued on, cabin shelves assembled with superglue then coated. I also have my dodger materials on the way and i even cut out a windvane rudder. The idea being to work on everything all at once so if I'm waiting for glue to dry I can just pick up another thing and work on that. Taylor is going to sew up our bunk cushions. The only question is where am i going to sleep? Probably end up in the cockpit. I'm not going to do nonskid additive and instead am going all in on foam decking. I've bought 3 pieces of this EVA foam diamond pattern foam same that i used on my plywood foil board and am planning to put that all over the cockpit seat tops, hatch tops maybe even some on the cabin top and cockpit sole. https://amzn.to/4art0uH Anchor and anchor roller are on the way and i've got most of my electrical stuff already. I bought an Ecoworthy 12v 280Ah battery which fits just about perfectly in the battery box too for power and about the cheapest per kwh for LiFeP04 you can get right now with good quality I think. https://amzn.to/4aYiYkU. I was happy to see this battery still makes Will Prouse's list recently. That gives 3.5kw of power to run whatever. Planning to experiment with a trolling motor, can run my starlink mini maybe an on board 3d printer. Still some room for a bigger battery but that'll do! Dodger hardware

Well, it's finally happening. Started the boat in 2016. Then we converted over to the taller 2018 version. Worked hard on it for 2 years and even launched the boat briefly at the 2020 messabout and slept aboard at the dock. Then I thought it was happening in 2024 https://bandbyachtdesigns.substack.com/p/raising-boys-and-boats-its-finally but the boat turned into a table again. (funny how fast that happens). So 10 years it is. Henry is 5 now and heading off to kindergarten in August. James is 3 and we're all going to Raid Erie event at the end of the July. That was the catalyst for finally finishing our Core Sound 20 Mark 3. Below, the boys helping vacuum out the cabin. So using proper boatbuilding technique I've waited until just a few weeks before to finish it. Photo album is here which I've started adding to again. https://photos.app.goo.gl/22Tfg2WR5pTSBHyw1 On the list.... Glue down cockpit sole Install Tabernacles Build masts Build Centerboard Build Rudder Paint Hull, deck, cockpit and cabin Rig the boat Sail the boat Put boat on a new trailer. Maybe get dodger built Maybe pull a wind vane out of a hat I copied what i did on Graham's rebuilt 17mk3 rudder and installed integral pex tubing for the up and downhaul in the rudder cheeks which worked well. Tabernacles are assembled and ready for glass.

I would definitely want trim tabs. The doel fin on the outboard I thought was more of a band aid fix for boats that ended up with too big a motor on the stern and wouldn't plane out at lower speeds without it. I don't think the Marissa would need one even without trim tabs and they add drag/reduce fuel economy. The purpose of trim tabs is to adjust the ride angle to maximize performance at a given rpm and to adjust how the boat behaves in a chop like being able to put the bot down into a short chop to smooth out the ride. Also in a crosswind to level the boat out. The hull is already nice and light so adding a foot of length and 4" of beam at the chine will make her float even higher. I'd probably just leave the chine beam alone if you want to widen the boat just do it at the sheer and gain a bit of cockpit width, i don't think the boat needs more beam really. Wide chine flats have been tried and I don't think there is much benefit plus the slapping is def probable. All the custom 25, 30 and even 52 footers have about 2 1/2" wide chine flats with sharp edges for spray.

I know Graham was thinking of doing it. I'll be feverishly trying to finish my 20mk3 for the Raid Erie event and I just toured Core Sound the other week so maybe next time for me.

That's essentially correct. It also has the ability to passively fill with a valve you open or shut reaching through the tank hatch. That's the red x. Also valves in the locker so you can isolate the tank from locker if a hose fails. All water enters and exits the tank via the trunk hole. https://photos.app.goo.gl/ov83K1tS2iHf2pEQ9 Im gonna do something similar but utilizing my outboard well in the cockpit i think.

Eric posted this a while back on the fb group.... I presume that's the campground on the island. Im planning to leave my car at the East harbor state park campground and sail over. I think there is a group doing that then stay on the boat. The St. Hazards website is only set up to handle reservations for 10 tent camp sites, but the campground has room for many, many more tent campers. They will basically never run out of room. When it shows full, it just means you can't reserve using the website, you need to call or email to reserve: email: info@sthazards.com, phone: 419.285.6121 or 419.307.6214 I recommend calling, leaving a vm, and texting both numbers since its out of season for them. Do not worry! you can even show up to St. Hazards during our event with no reservation at all, and they will accommodate you! Promise!

Its just copied from a fb post on the raid erie fb page. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1FAwkWtXUj/

I told my parents they should take their boat to Raid Erie but then we got to thinking hey we could actually do it too. So we're registered! so now I MUST finish my 20mk3 and they're going too. And I see already Erik is going in his 20mk3 also Niels Wade with his P22 and Andrew in his CS-20. Here is the participants list form March 10 posted by Eric Miller the organizer. Paul was there last year.

A cool video of MadMothist Leaving Flamingo using the pedal drive. hard to tell how much work the sails are doing but obviously the pedal drive is assisting well though that channel is very narrow so he ran aground. Love the huge bowsprit too. Tom has this cool longer video too from around Flamingo...