Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .

[Steve W]

Nice job Pete. I like fenders you can stand on. I've got two trailers that have that same configuration with the little step fore and aft. Sweet. I'll probably end up buying the same model when I gt that far.

[Pete McCrary]

Getting ready for final assembly! Here I'm sealing the small parts with neat epoxy using Peel Ply.

And the transom is fully primed and painted -- and ready for bedding of the "bow eyes," motor mount, and the rudder hardware -- all before the aft cockpit deck is glued down:

BTW, I might add a 3rd coat of white . . .

Next I'll seal the remaing plywood (including already assembled sheer strakes and cabin roof) with neat epoxy before laying down the remaining [two pieces] of the cockpit deck and fabricating the cockpit coamings.

[AmosSwogger]

Nice work.

[Drew]

Chessie is looking so good Pete. Thanks for your pics, I get so many good ideas from them - I wish I could contribute in return. Our (officially unnamed) Mk3 is progressing slowly but surely. Inside the cabin and cabin top is undercoated prior to assembly. While waiting for an opportunity to apply the finish coat (off white) I decided to build a curved hatch and hatch coaming for the forard hatch. Next job, finish the cabin sole ready for painting. 

[Pete McCrary]

Nice job job, Drew. I'm assuming that your cabin hatch covers will all be finished "bright."

[Drew]

Yes, that's the plan, so I am using non-yellowing hardener and clear coat finish on those surfaces. Off white uppers with bright trim as a relief feature.

[PAR]

There's no such thing as a non-yellowing hardener, in the usual formulations we see in the room temperature cure marine goo's. A few do add UV inhibitors, but these will break down in time, without additional protection (paint, varnish or polyurethane).

[Alex]

Bote-Cote epoxy has a non yellowing hardener specifically formulated to resist yellowing due to ultra violet light.

[PAR]

I'm familiar with the BoteCote (a fairly typical bisphenol A, amine cure goo) formulation and again, the UV inhibitors will break down in time (as they all seem to do). This said BoteCote does use non-reactive modifiers to control blush, improve viscosity properties and allergic sensitivity. Many of the non-blush formulations from other reformulators are doing similar with their goo's. As goo's go, if you are in this part of the world, I'd strongly recommend BoteCote, though the same health and safety precautions need to be employed, as the other brands. The price is much better than the major brands, the mix ratio is much more forgiving and the additional elements of the formulation make for a good product.

[Pete McCrary]

I'm moving right along. Today I bedded the transom hardware and lined the anchor well with "Dry-Deck" panels. That should get a little air underneath the anchor rode and chain. One more coat of paint on the motor mount and I'll bed that too.

Notice the faux mast with "TOP" painted on [it]. It keeps rainwater from being driven into the cabin while trailering at highway speeds. Also, the nut & washer for the mast-foot bolt is kept busy and less likely to be lost or misplaced.

I may not prime/paint the inboard surfaces of the anchor well -- thinking that it won't get much sunshine. Bad idea, or should I just go ahead and lay on the paint ?? Suggestions ??

[Chick Ludwig]

Pete. I didn't paint the well on Summer Breeze. I also made my mast foot bolt come from the inside, so water won't be a problem. It seems much easier for me to put the nut on from the front, rather that trying to hold the mast up while reaching back into the cabin to do it. And you wouldn't need the faux mast.

 

That "Dry Deck" panel is Super Cool! Summer says she wants one!

[PAR]

I like to, leave enclosed out of sight areas (bilge, lockers, etc.) unpainted, simply to see if something is developing (leaks), before the blistering paint indicates somethings wrong.

[Paul356]

I painted the comparable area on my 17, figuring there will be enough chafe, etc., that I'd like the extra protection.  Others may say the paint doesn't protect that much, I suppose.  It feels odd to leave any area uncoated; that's probably just me. 

[Pete McCrary]

Unpainted it will remain.

Chick,... The mast-bolt configuration was decided last year. There're advantages either way. I've decided to [almost never] raise/lower the mast on-the-water. I'll always be on the ramp's parking lot or my driveway -- where I can tie off a halyard to the tow vehicle or have it held by a helper. In years of trailering, a little help from fellow boaters is nearly always available. Even if it isn't (early am, remote ramp, etc), I'll have a jam stick stowed in the anchor well. I might lower/raise a mast (on-the-water) in very calm restricted traffic conditions (e.g., canal, locks, etc). A neighbor-sailor-friend was injured (and mast raising system damaged) when an unexpected (modest) wake occurred at a crucial point in the process.

[Pete McCrary]

About painting ... Are any of you old enough to remember "wooded" ladders? They were never painted. Probably for good reason.

[PAR]

Most electricians still own some wooden ladders. I have a really nice old (50+ years) 14' one that I stole from an electrician (my boss, way back), that I cherish. It's even had a big scarfed repair to the top of one leg, all pinned and glued, long before me. I'm fairly sure it was dipped in varnish when first made, but it's long gone now.

 

I do paint inside out of the way areas, but usually with tinted epoxy, rather than paint. It creates a translucent effect, so you can still see the grain, but offers a light colored surface, to find stuff in the enclosed space.

[Drew]

I'm leaving the anchor well unpainted but have put about three sanded coats and a final coat of epoxy for protection. Everything else that is left as bright timber I am coating with the controversial non-yellowing epoxy/hardener mix and several coats of clear finish over the top of that. Yes, I use Bote-Cote products and, having used some deadly epoxies in aircraft building, am enjoying the ease of this one (but still wear mask and gloves at all times).  It is worth noting that we are actually building epoxy-encased plywood boats in the hope that moisture will NEVER get at the ply, but if it does, I want to know really early. I have seen too many rotten plywood trailer yachts that were built a little haphazardly.

[Designer]

I am painting in the anchor locker on Carlita. I just epoxied Southern Skimmer's anchor locker for the reasons stated above. It took a good while but the UV's have started to break down the epoxy. It is not a big deal as I will re-epoxy it and then paint it. 

[Pete McCrary]

Could I use AWLGRIP 545 primer (gray) for the last surface within the anchor well. One or two coats? Is it effective as a UV blocker?

[Pete McCrary]

Today I reclaimed half of my garage for "Chessie's" tow vehicle. Just in time for Jack Frost -- who showed up this morning. That space had been used for applying epoxy (w/Peel Ply) on the large pieces (decks, coamings, etc). I hate scraping snow and ice off my pickup.

After clearing that space I still got a few things done for "Chessie":

. Repaired stool shattered when the cradle fell. Remind you of a nursery rhyme?

. Mizzen mast partner & thwart assembled and epoxied. Ready to install.

. Primer and 2nd coat of white on motor mount. It'll be bedded on transom tomorrow.

Next I'll throughly vacuum entire inside in preparation for putting down the decks -- starting with the aft cockpit deck.