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Core Sound 20 Mk 3 -- #4 "Chessie" . .


Pete McCrary

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This morning applied the 2nd (and last) coat of paint to the waterline boot. Tomorrow I will apply 545 primer to the bottom and topsides.

Thought you all would like to see some pixs of the rollover event (August 27, 2016). Here they are:

post-4915-0-41337500-1474559307_thumb.jpeg Preparing the three-point lift.

post-4915-0-03433100-1474559363_thumb.jpeg Son, Jim McCrary at the bow-eye.

post-4915-0-42758100-1474559442_thumb.jpeg Removing the construction cradle.

post-4915-0-45953400-1474559527_thumb.jpeg The rotation:

post-4915-0-64719200-1474559623_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-42688000-1474559671_thumb.jpeg

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post-4915-0-23906400-1474559758_thumb.jpeg Inserting the inversion pedestal.

post-4915-0-57874700-1474559894_thumb.jpeg Lowering "Chessie" onto her pedestal.

post-4915-0-82139400-1474559955_thumb.jpeg Ready for glassing, et cetera.

post-4915-0-99701200-1474560003_thumb.jpeg The crew: Dale Wine, Henry Felber, Pete McCrary, Jim McCrary

I really like the 3-point rollover system. It only requires 3 or 4 persons to safely do it. But I especially like the fact that just one person could easily use the pulleys to load & off-load the boat onto its trailer. Also, raise it for service to the bottom and/or the CB.

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Your lift shows your stuff, if you will. You had an idea, listened to advice and experience, changed your idea, and came up with something much better than the sum of the parts.

Your system fits your situation, but it also demonstrates HOW to fit a system to a situation, and how to calmly and rationally think a problem through, and then come up with the INDIVIDUAL solution for the situation.

Just brilliant. These are the trials of home builders.:)

Your lift also shows that no matter how smart we get, we still need good friends! All those guys deserve a nice little cruise with you. ;)

This is an excellent thread, Pete. A fantastic document, despite my repeated attempts to tarnish it with my "wisdom".:) I have learned much about how to compose my own build threads, and how to best document my own CoreSound, erm, rebuild. I'm still building up the kitty and scratching my head about a few things...

Thanks for entertaining my comments and suggestions.

Long live Puff!:)

Peace,

Robert

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The bottom and waterline boot are finished and one coat of Interlux polyurethane (white) is on the topsides. Tomorrow would have seen a 2nd coat -- except for when I opened a recently purchased can (West Marine), it was SOLID !!

post-4915-0-16398900-1475186112_thumb.jpeg. The bottom will remain gray (AWLGRIP 545).

So, now I'm taking off on Friday for the Mid-Atlantic Small Craft Festival. My life-long helper, Annie, says we need a mini-vacation. On Monday I'll resume the final construction of "Chessie."

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We had a grand time at the Small Craft Festival. Lots of conversation with Steve, Graham and Beth, and Alan and family. Graham certainly deserved the 1st place prize. The Core Sounds are wonderful designs. I certainly hope to enter "Chessie" in next year's festival.

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Last year when assembling the CB trunk -- I "dry-fitted" the CB and measured the space between the forward edge of the CB and the aft side of the forward frame. I figured that if I put a "spacer" in that gap, then the CB shaft-hole would line-up with the 3/8" holes drilled thru the trunk -- and all that I'd have to do [to line-up all the holes] is slowly raise the CB until I could push thru [all the holes] a tapered 3/8" dowel. That is what we did. Then we wedged the CB so it wouldn't move, removed the dowel, and inserted the 3/8" SS bolt. Worked like a charm.

However, the CB wouldn't freely rotate to the "up" position because of my EARLIER SCREW-UP OF NOT HAVING SPACERS IN THE TRUNK WHEN INSERTING the module into the hull. I marked where there was friction, removed the CB, and scrapped and sanded the offending surfaces to gain about 1/32" extra space in the offending edges. Quite a bit on the trunk edges and a little on the CB itself. Now the CB can rotate without any binding. But there's not much clearance in case there is some "swelling," which I doubt. However, if some river debrie or seaweed gets in there -- it may cause a problem. We'll just have to try it and see what happens.

post-4915-0-72333000-1475534813_thumb.jpeg In place in the "down" position.

At the festival I talked to a builder of a CLC PocketShip (like my "Tattoo") who had the same problem with his CB trunk. His CB opening had so narrowed that he had to switch to an aluminum CB at considerable expense. The extra weight was helpful for ballast, but it was much more trouble installing because of the weight. I hope I don't have to go that route. But, if I have to, maybe I could get Graham to design a CB profile consisting of three layers of aluminum with the outer two layers cut to a contoure that would be the foundation for a proper hydrofoil with thickened epoxy used to fill in the edges of the layers. But only as a last resort.

Builders should be LOUDLY cautioned to have spacers in place when inserting the module. I missed the warnings -- but should have known better anyway.

Her final ROLLOVER is scheduled for Wednesday afternoon !!

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As I mentioned in another thread, I use Teflon sheets (1/32" PTFE), both on the case sides and the part of the board that remains in the case. This permits tight clearances and lets the board slide in and out with ease. Debris in the case is always a problem, though with the offset arrangement in these designs, not as bad as centerline setups. I know they sell Teflon sheets with a heat activated adhesive on one side, but I couldn't find it reasonably, so I just epoxied it in place. The areas need to be dead flat and some detail finish work around the edges of the Teflon will be necessary, to insure it is the only thing standing proud, but it works well. I too prefer inert materials for appendages, but a well built, sheathed, strip planked board can remain stable if kept up after strikes and such.

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Pete, it was great to meet you and your wife at the MASCF and of course Beth and Graham and Alan. I had a great time as always and Carlita is really a gem. She was the bell of the ball. That festival is really something. I've been to a few different festivals, but the location, the camping on premise and the great staff make this an awesome event.

 

I realized that I had screwed up and took the spacer out before I put the module in place. So I put a temporary cleat alongside the module (that I'll remove) with double sided tape to make sure it stays straight and doesn't flex inward or outward. Hopefully that will take care of my omission. I did make my centerboard a bit loose because a sticking centerboard is a pain. I doubt you will get swelling though.

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With the CB, Anderson Bailers, keel batten, and half-ovals all installed and well bedded -- "Chessie" was again rolled and is now [hopefully] permanently upright:

post-4915-0-87089800-1475753637_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-44129600-1475753699_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-08069500-1475753749_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-26967700-1475753787_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-72034800-1475754684_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-08267300-1475754716_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-79790600-1475754745_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-54371500-1475754786_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-07359200-1475754880_thumb.jpeg. Now, safely upright !!

The rollover crew and observers (from the left):

Jeff Mirus, Dale Wine, Brenda Wine, Terry Carr, Matt Carr, John Lamb & son Wyatt (7 mos), Pete McCrary, and Henry Felber. Annie McCrary is the photographer.

post-4915-0-04181100-1475755547_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-89165000-1475755580_thumb.jpeg. Bewildered !?

Now, ... The home stretch.

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Hi Pete, I left the spacer in my c/b trunk till I cut the slot in the bottom, guess how much "stray" epoxy it takes to firmly bond that puppy in place! Experience ( something you gain right after you need it) I would follow PAR's suggestion on the Teflon shims. I actually have some HDPE (or something like that) left over from a folding kayak project that would have made good trunk wear plates. Ideas for the next build.

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Before laying on the foredeck I modified Blk 1 like Graham suggested. But I installed two 4" deck plates for a little more ventilation. Also, I put in a thru-deck female polarized 12 volt connector. I think the "pigtail" on the electric cable [that powers the red-green-white nav-light at the top of the mast] is long enough so that it may not need to be disconnected when lowering the mast. We'll see.

post-4915-0-71564800-1476115385_thumb.jpeg From the outside before laying on the foredeck.

post-4915-0-56164500-1476115499_thumb.jpeg Port-side.

post-4915-0-90501300-1476115595_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-31830500-1476115792_thumb.jpeg

Note the thru-deck electrical connector near the ceiling. It will be protected and hidden by a wooden electrical conduit.

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CRADLE COLLAPSE !! Advice please !!!

I was inside the cabin between Blk 2 and the 2nd floor aft of Blk 2, mounting the two (ventilation) deck plates on Blk 1. I heard 4 or 5 snapping sounds and suddenly the cradle failed at the forward span (on the port side) and then the three legs on the starboard side gave way. A huge noise that brought my neighbor to my aid. They steadied the boat and helped me out. Here are the photos:

Boat on the collapsed cradle.

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post-4915-0-95676200-1476210896_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-94909800-1476210929_thumb.jpeg

post-4915-0-35574200-1476210964_thumb.jpeg post-4915-0-13982500-1476211016_thumb.jpeg

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Inspection showed that the first failure was the forward 2 x 4 cross member on the port side. It split at that end allowing the leg to roll out from under the frame. I think there were at least three causing factors:

1. The cradle was outside (boat inside) for about 10 days and subject to considerable rain.

2. The grain at end of the 2 x 4 was at a considerable angle.

3. The cradle's six legs-ends were mounted on casters -- and that subjected them to twisting torques from all directions (thruout all 360 degrees) depending on the last direction of cradle movement. That subjected the 2 x 4 to a twisting force in addition to the normal (bending) load.

TUITION PAID: Big painful bruise on my right thy (presently under an ice pac); cradle destroyed; time lost; pride hurt; more ??

LESSON LEARNED: Cradles shouldn't be left out in the weather; support beams should be straight grained; casters that "swivel" create twisting torques that should be accounted for when installing the casters; and maybe other lessons that I have not yet learned ?? Suggestions please !!

It appears that "Chessie's" fall was cushioned as she fell on her own cradle in two stages -- the port-side forward corner, and then the entire starboard side rolled outward -- and she fell the rest of the way, finally resting on the collapsed cross members. Inspection reveals no damage. So far I don't even see any scratches.

I think at this point I should simple lift her (using the 3-point pulleys) and roll her trailer under her. Then match the rollers and bunks to her hull. And finish the building on her trailer. The bow will stick out the garage door by about 3 feet and I'll have to keep the rain off with some plastic sheeting.

Please offer helpful comments and suggestions.

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How about naming the whale "Humpty?"   ^_^

 

Glad you are not more seriously hurt and that Chessie is OK.   I'm finishing the interior of my CS15 on it's trailer.  It's a little wobbly to be on board because the central beam of the trailer flexes a bit.   I don't know if this will work for you, but my boat fits better with the bow going in first.  I can tuck the tongue of the trailer between things that are stored at the back of the garage and that saves a few feet.

 

Bob

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The swiveling casters thing shouldn't be much of a concern, assuming the cradle is stout. I usually make a rigid 2x4/2x6 ladder frame, with everything being as square and plumb as I can. I reinforce corners with gussets of plywood, not OSB, which I've never trusted, and the "saddles" the boat rests in are usually plywood off cuts, but one piece. In fact, I usually save 2 or three of the off cuts when making station molds, specifically for the cradle. Lastly, when I had a shop with limited space, I use to make two separate, rolling (full swivels) stands that cradled each end of the boat. They were not attached to each other, simple two stands with similar padded hull cutout supports. It made moving the boat around easier and getting it on and off the cradle as easy as jacking one end up and pulling one of the cradles out.

 

I'm glad you're not too badly hurt and the boat clearly is tougher than you, which is probably a good thing. Hell, without a little blood and pain, it wouldn't be much of a build, now would it . . . ;)

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Pete,

So glad you are not seriously hurt and then am glad that the boat seems undamaged - a testament to your building skills and Graham's design. That gives me real confidence. I would look closely at the fillets along the inside of the chines to make sure that nothing has been damaged by a small area impact that might crack the joint. I would think that your keel design will have well and truly protected the keelson joint. At your stage of completion the trailer seems to be a reasonable option and less challenging perhaps than re-building the cradle.

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