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Posted

It's about time that I start posting photos of my build.  Seems only fair, since I've learned so much from everyone else's photos.  Let's see what sort of trouble this'll get me into.  But first, a couple of notes.

 

  1. This is an NC Foothills build.  If you ask (and I did) about the availability of southern yellow pine, you get a look that could have come from the movie "Deliverance".  This boat will be made with Meranti (not that other stuff) and local hardwoods-- White Oak, Black Walnut, and Aromatic Cedar. Sure, she'll be a little heavier, but hey-- I'm no featherweight, either!
  2. The plan was to build her at Don R's Polk County Boatbuilding Center.  We have run into a couple of snags, so I'll start the boat at home.  When I can, I'll transfer the build to the Boatbuilding Center.  
  3. At the present, she's a no-name boat.  Not sure if and when that'll change.  But for now she'll be BRS15 #152.

The transom is cut out, and will be completed this week. I used walnut here, because it's free. post-3770-0-41922400-1424913622_thumb.jpgpost-3770-0-81294100-1424913639_thumb.jpg

 

 

Today, I took my side lumber over to the center, and had Don scarf them with his 12:1 power-scarfer.  That was sweet to watch!  Tomorrow, I'll glue up my scarfs.  post-3770-0-46913900-1424913851_thumb.jpg


Posted

While I was waiting to move to the Boatbuilding Center (which is now unavailable), I cut up and laminated the wood (white oak) for my centerboard.  I also planed it down, using my router.post-3770-0-77015000-1424914337_thumb.jpgpost-3770-0-08710400-1424914347_thumb.jpgpost-3770-0-42525800-1424914356_thumb.jpg

 

I made a full-sized layout of the centerboard/trunk, and made the modifications for a flush-top version that PAR shared.  It was fun getting out the old drafting gear, and putting triangles together again.  post-3770-0-96754100-1424914599_thumb.jpg

 

I spent some time trying to come up with a jig to shape the blank to an NACA 0009 foil.  I need to revisit this later, after I get the hull going.  post-3770-0-00671300-1424914369_thumb.jpg

Posted

............. and local hardwoods-- White Oak, Black Walnut, and Aromatic Cedar.

All cedars are softwoods by definition.

 

That being said, any wood almost can be used on these boats.  The result might be heavier than necessary, but if that is your choice then at least you make it informed.

Posted

Don-

Glad to see you are underway! Best of luck.....looks like you know some stuff.could use some your knot expertise around now ( you taught me a couple at the mess-about).

I have to ask.....what is your completion date? ( someone always has to ask, tongue in cheek )

Good luck

Posted

Aromatic Cedar is that Eastern Red Cedar? My experience with Eastern Red Cedar is that it is extremely resistant to rot, smells nice, but is full of knots and quite soft and brittle. I have never used epoxy with Red Cedar but I think of Red Cedar as being an oily wood so I would be cautious about using it with epoxy. I expect you are aware that many people do not  recommend using epoxy to bond white oak. Some people claim good results with proper preparation usually course sanding and solvent washing. Somewhere I read (probably a West System article) that G-Flex does a superior job of bonding to White Oak. I used G-Flex and White Oak on my tiller and so far it has held together.

Posted

Great to see you posting. I hope to be able to start mine soon. just waiting on B&B to get my kit cut.

 

Poplar is readily available here and is light, easy to work, looks good, clear of knots, cheap, glues well, and plenty strong for what we do. Only problem is that ya gotta buy rough cut and plane it yourself. Does the other Don have a planer? I have a Dewalt 12 inch and would be glad to help you.

Posted

I knew that someone would call me on the inclusion of cedar on my list of hardwoods.  I do know better.  And thanks for the cautionary notes on gluing to white oak.  I'll keep that in mind.  I'm not concerned about a little extra weight, since this is my "old man's boat".

 

Mattp, I like the lines, versatility, and simplicity of the BRS boats. 

 

Lennie, I do have a scheduled completion date-- the first of Septnever.  LOL  And have you seen the website www.animatedknots.com/indexboating ?  It's a great site.

 

Chick, Genette Lumber in West Asheville has rough sawn poplar for cheap, PLUS they will plane it to your specification for $5 (for your entire order).  But I always thought that poplar was at the bottom of the food chain as regards to rot resistance.  That said, I am planning to make a strip boat out of poplar, unless my forum bretheren can persuade me otherwise.  Now, I've gotta get off this computer, and get down in my workshop.  The scarfs have been glued up this morning-- yee-hah!

Posted

Don, since we're epoxy encapsulating our boats, rot will not be a problem. I've used it quite a bit over the years. Until i moved up here to the mountains, I bought boards from Lowe's. Now I get it from Clear Creek Wood Products  in Hendersonville, or Sunrise Sawmill near Asheville. I like to use red oak for a contrasting color.Clear Creek has that, too. Both woods are available in 16 ft. lengths.

Posted

I have liked the 5ml Harbor Freight gloves. I bought the knot app and trying to learn a new one every couple days Don. What is the name of the knot we played with at the mess-about for tying the sprits/ snotter?

Posted

Thanks Don

That is not it but no worries....I will figure out from plans what to do. I think they are clear on these things and that is next weeks agenda when I will dive into the hardware and rigging.

Posted

I've been out of commission for the past few days, as I blew out my back on Saturday. Finally today, with careful moves, I've accomplished what I set out to do last Saturday. I now also understand the purpose of those temporary battens running along the sides.

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