Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi All. Looking for advice on this specific ez-loader trailer type for a CS-17. I'm shopping used and hoping to be all in for under $500 and need galvanized for the salt water.


First, I don't know what impact those swiveling bunks would have on a non-aluminium boat.

Second, I'm trying to limit overhang to less than 4 feet.

Third, while I could add keel rollers forward of the joint, it seems like a pretty big hole in the middle (between the rear and the triangle joint where I could add one). Seems like I'd want to have one there in the middle of outer space? 


Of the lighter-duty trailers I've seen recommended on the forums (capacity 600-1000 lbs), this is pretty common to find this model in my neck of the woods. This one is going for $350. 


Appreciate the feedback. Thanks. 

ez loader 2.jpg

ez loader.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

That trailer looks to me like it would be workable provided that the post that the winch is mounted on can be moved to balance the boat over the wheels (I can't see if it is bolted or welded onto the trailer frame).  On second glance, are the wheels far enough apart?

You could accomplish both goals of adding rollers and of limiting overhang by adding a longitudinal beam to carry the rollers.  I've shown the new beam mounted underneath the trailer frame to keep the boat low for ease of launching but if that setup doesn't allow enough road clearance you could obviously put the beam on top of the frame.

   The swivelling bunks shouldn't be a problem.  The last I heard, the recommendation was to support a CS17 by the rollers with the bunks adjusted to keep the boat from falling over rather than to support the weight of the boat.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe you're over thinking this a bit. Bunks will support the boat's weight just fine, without the need for an aft centerline roller. More importantly is how the trailer is setup, for tongue weight, loading and balance. That trailer look like it's axle carriage can slide forward, which you should do, as far as practical, to get the boat more closely centered on the trailer and limit aft overhang. A couple of rollers forward is a good idea, but loading guides are going to be your real friend at the ramp. I like to use two sets of loading guides, a set forward, to keep the bow on the trailer's centerline and the vertical rear mounted poles, that keep her butt centered, when loading.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes - Balance is the most important thing.  That's the place to start when setting the trailer up.  I suggested the extra longitudinal beam because at some point a decision has to be made about whether to buy a given trailer and it's an easier decision to make if you know a way to make it fit if it ends up being too short to be legal once it's set up with the correct balance.

    Bunks may support the weight just fine but I was passing along the designer's advice to carry the weight on the rollers rather than the bunks (I hope I didn't get it wrong).  When I set my trailer up that way it was an easy matter to back up to the edge of the water and let the boat roll off the trailer.  The only part of my trailer that ever went into the water was the tire treads.

   One thing I didn't add was that if I bought the trailer in the photo I would get it all nice and balanced and if there was too much tongue left on the trailer I'd hack it off so the whole rig wasn't too long.

   At any rate it looks like Greendane has two nods of approval for that type of trailer and we'll be happy to help him figure it out if he hits a "bump in the road" trying to set it up. :)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Having owned a Load Rite 16 trailer for the past few years I can say that it's been the perfect size for launching Petunia without much more fuss than adjusting the bunks angle from it's traveling position (aft ends of bunks raised to conform better to the hull shape), to a simple slide off when the bunks are lowered.

One thing I did find this past weekend was that the tongue/trailer jack seem to be the most susceptible while storing the boat. I had a call from the marina last week in which they told me "you might want to come over here, it appears that someone has run over your trailer..." SO obviously I did and found that "apparently" a commercial trucking company was moving a large boat from the travel lift to a storage position and they clipped the tongue/jack of the trailer, (see pix). Boat seems unscathed, but the masts now both have a slight tweak and I'm wondering if a little whip lash activity could have been the culprit. I had to laugh when the insurance adjuster asked which  repair shop I might want to take the masts to for a look, since most shops would look at the carbon fiber wraps, and wooden plug at the mast head before telling me it was a "custom job".

Long story short, NO witnesses, therefore it's considered a "hit and run"by the police. Boat US insurance ( now really Geico) will pay for a replacement trailer as the Load Rite distributor came and "totaled" the trailer saying the frame is out of alignment, etc. and Petunia and I have a looooong road trip coming up in the Fall (more to follow on that one...).

In short, a good trailer makes much of what we want to do with our boats possible.




Link to post
Share on other sites

Keep your eye on craigslist.  Be picky.  You can spend a lot of money modifying a trailer.  I use etrailer.com for this sort of thing.  For salt water use, you need a galvanized trailer, of course.  Also, there are times when a tilt trailer is handy.  I don't have this feature.  Once, when reservoir levels were low, I couldn't get the boat deep enough in the water to launch.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Greendane - I'm not sure what WA state rule you're finding that says the overhang needs to be less than 4'.  The RCW I find says:


RCW 46.44.034

Maximum lengths—Front and rear protrusions.

*** CHANGE IN 2017 *** (SEE 1149-S.SL) ***

(1) The load, or any portion of any vehicle, operated alone upon the public highway of this state, or the load, or any portion of the front vehicle of a combination of vehicles, shall not extend more than three feet beyond the front wheels of such vehicle, or the front bumper, if equipped with front bumper. This subsection does not apply to a front-loading garbage truck or recycling truck while on route and actually engaged in the collection of solid waste or recyclables at speeds of twenty miles per hour or less.
(2) No vehicle shall be operated upon the public highways with any part of the permanent structure or load extending in excess of fifteen feet beyond the center of the last axle of such vehicle. This subsection does not apply to "specialized equipment" designated under 49 U.S.C. Sec. 2311 that is operated on the interstate highway system, those designated portions of the federal-aid primary system, and routes constituting reasonable access from such highways to terminals and facilities for food, fuel, repairs, and rest.
That says the overhang can't be more than 15'.
Is there something else I'm missing?  I've trailered an 18' boat all over WA with an overhang on the 5 1/2' range for the last 30 years with no issues or complaints.  It's all about getting the tongue weight at 10% of the trailer & boat weight so it doesn't fish tail.
If there is a real rule limiting it to 4' I'd really like to know - all three of my boats exceed that.
Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi Paul. I asked a State Trooper I know. While it may not be that it is enforced much, this RCW applies if I understood him correctly. 


RCW 46.37.140
Lamps, reflectors, and flags on projecting load.
(1) On any vehicle having a load that extends more than four inches beyond its sides or more than four feet beyond its rear, there must be displayed red or orange fluorescent warning flags, not less than eighteen inches square, marking the extremities of such loads.
(2) Whenever the load upon any vehicle extends to the rear four feet or more beyond the bed or body of the vehicle, there must be displayed at the extreme rear end of the load at the times specified in RCW 46.37.020:
(a) Two red lamps, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the rear;
(b) Two red reflectors, visible at night from all distances within six hundred feet to one hundred feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful lower beams of headlamps, and located so as to indicate maximum width; and
(c) A red lamp on each side, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the side, and located so as to indicate maximum overhang.

Link to post
Share on other sites

All that said, I think I'll concern myself less with the overhang and more with the tongue weight and axel placement. The biggest hassle I see on Craigslist is that most trailers come with a boat you have to get rid of that doesn't work. ?

Link to post
Share on other sites

I have about three feet of overhang on mine and don't worry about it too much-  I do take my motor off for trailering though since it just seems like it is not a smart idea to add that weight cantilevered over the end-

Link to post
Share on other sites

Greendane - Thanks for the information on the overhang - I will go actually measure mine rather than guesstimate! 


My 18' boat (picture below) has been on this same trailer (https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tro/6135876390.html ) since shortly after I built it - and I love it.  It's loads easy & quick, always tracks right down the center regardless of how crooked the boat is before I start cranking and I can load & unload the boat with the axle hubs level with the water.  I do store it inside and I have had to do some weld repair on it at one point & painted it twice - but pretty good for 30 years of on & off saltwater service.  This guy is asking a bit much for a painted trailer 1970's trailer but he's had it listed before so he may be willing to come down a lot.


The CS 15' I built (since sold) I put on a much smaller galv trailer like what you were looking at - and then we put rollers on the back.



Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Paul. 


There's this one here for $400. I think these are the same CE Smith that are available through Cabela's for about $900  Capacity = 800lbs. But at $400, I'd still need to add rollers--probably at least 3, maybe 4? That's another $100-$150. And it looks like this one could use some bearing buddies. (The rollers I have are pretty hammered. I think only one turns. I might be able to rebuild them for less though?)


But given the overhang code in the RCW, I get a little concerned. I was in North Carolina a few weeks ago and the highways are so much less congested that I think its easier for guys like @Alan Stewart to get away with overhang like the below. I take both the motor and the rudder off when I trailer it. But maybe it would be ok?


As rickety as mine is, what I like about it is that there is a walk way down the middle. I usually back down until the aft roller is just under the water surface. But this usually means the wheels are submerged. In saltwater no less. It also has a pretty long tongue that allows me to put the tailgate on my pickup down to see when backing up for retrieval. By the time I can see the trailer in my mirror it's already too far gone. But if I add guides to the end of the new trailer, that might solve that problem. Or I could get a shin-buster (aka hitch extension) to get the crank out past the tailgate. This trailer is a bit longer





Link to post
Share on other sites

Watch your overall length of truck and trailer.  Washington State Ferries tier their prices in painful ten foot intervals "under 30 feet", "under 40 feet", and "under 50 feet".   I'm able to stay under 40 feet but I had to position the mast so it hangs over the front of the CS17 and shift the trailer axle forward to achieve a manageable tongue weight.   

The fixed axle position on your proposed trailer might make you comprise either tongue weight or overall length.   

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think that as long as you don't let the boat fill with water while its sitting on the trailer you're not likely to have any issues with the boat warping or distorting from being supported by bunks or rollers with just a single keel roller at about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way back from the bow.  My 18' boat & my Snipe are both supported that way - and they've never had an issue.

I've seen flooded boats have real issues - big dents in the hull at the support points - because of all the weight of getting full of rain water.  Of course it never rains on Camano Island.... 

Good luck hunting for a trailer!  It took me nearly 4 months to find what I was looking for the CS-15 I sold - and I found that one on Camano!



Link to post
Share on other sites



I'm starting to notice the difficulty in finding a trailer.  Maybe I need to car top my Spindrift 12 for awhile.  I thought I wanted a Trailex, but I've not heard great things about its durability.  For $1200 new, it better be rock-solid.  


Around here, dinghy sailors appear to be using EZ-Loaders.  Used trailers, even for PWCs, are scarce here.  



I might buy an EZ-Loader 


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah, EZ Loaders is mostly what I find here too. Be patient and check multiple times daily. There are good apps for CraigsList that allow you to check multiple areas at once (I live on a county line so there are two areas I want to see from and don't want to bounce in and out of craigslist serching). 

Link to post
Share on other sites

I think I found a new EZ loader with 1000 lb weight rating.  I think it has torsion springs, so I'm not sure I can adjust them to the boat weight like you can with leaf springs.  Otherwise, it's a great looking trailer.  The guy is the main Lazer dinghy supplier around here and these are the trailers he uses for light sailboats.  Any advice? I'll post some pictures in a bit.  

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Supporting Members

Supporting Members can create Clubs, photo Galleries, don't see ads and make messing-about.com possible! Become a Supporting Member - only $12 for the next year. Pay by PayPal or credit card.

  • Similar Content

    • By Paul356
      It's a sailboat, right?  So why do we spend all our time fussing with motors, batteries, trailers....
      But at least today, little Miss Suzy Q started right up.  One more thing to check off the list for the first trip of the season with the CS 17, planned Saturday to Lake Mendota in Madison.
    • By Paul356
      Reacher and I tried something new on Saturday.  We took our boats out with the PHRF fleet on Green Bay, and the heck of it was, we did pretty good!
      Reacher is a member at M&M YC in Menominee, Michigan, where they have a fairly active big boat racing program.  This includes the annual "100 Miler" (which is only 45 miles long, for some reason) that usually attracts a lot of boats returning from the Chicago-Mackinac Race.
      Last Saturday, M&M held their annual Joey Shepro Memorial Doublehander, a more or less "fun race" and fundraiser for Make-a-Wish.  Reacher suggested I trailer up from Milwaukee and we could enter our Core Sounds and see what happened.  He has a 20, I have a 17.  This race is c. 14 miles from their Club, out around Green Island in the middle of Green Bay and back.
      They were nice enough to give us PHRF ratings, which was interesting.  Mine was 252. (That's seconds per mile, deducted from the final time, so I had about 62 minutes deducted.)  Reacher's was 246, so they pegged him theoretically as 6 seconds a mile faster.  For comparison, a Cape Dory 27 is 243 (New England PHRF) and a CD 22 is 282.  The slowest boat in the fleet was deemed to be a Com-Pac 19-2, rated at 283, while the fastest was a Tripp 33, rated at 90.
      This was set up as a reverse start.  The race started at noon, but each boat was given a unique starting time reflecting the handicap.  In theory, in a perfect race, all boats would cross the finish line together.  In practice, wherever you are in the race is your position at that time, since the handicap has already been accounted for.  No need to figure out if you need to "give time" to a boat at the finish line, since that's all been handled at the start.
      Thus the Com-Pac, as the boat with the highest handicap, was supposed to start at noon, precisely.  It never did, and we learned later that it could not point into the light breeze without starting its engine.  Tip to consumers:  don't buy a Com-Pac if you want to sail upwind in light air.
      I was next, at 12:07:02, and Reacher next after that 12:08:23.  So it went until some 34 boats were off the line, with the last (fastest) one at 12:43.  (Make sense?)
      The first leg was a beat of about 1.75 miles to a buoy before we turned to the island.  Reacher and I kept company on the upwind, tho he passed me as we neared the mark.  It was a blast sailing together.  It was about 80 degrees out, full sun, the water sparkling blue, the wind maybe 6, puffing to maybe 8 mph, from the north east.  I had us moving at 4 to 4.5 mph on the gps for most of the upwind.
      Then came a 3.5 mile close reach out the island.  It wasn't until then that other boats in the fleet started to catch up.
      I decided to go south-about the island; Reacher and most of the fleet went to the north.  Not sure if there was an advantage one way or another.  I was hoping for more puffs on the broader reach back on the North side -- dreaming of a bit of planning -- but those puffs never materialized.  GPS showed c. 5 mph on the way out, c. 6 on the way back.  Reacher's larger sails definitely helped as the wind stayed around 6ish or a hair more.  The water got a bit choppier, too, which hurt our light little craft when we had to punch into it but was still "flat" for the big keel boats. 
      The last leg was around the buoy and back DDW to the finish.  Almost caught up to a Catalina on that leg, but not quite.  My speed was 3.5 to 4.5, depending.  Their speed was flogging....
      Results:  As one of the big boat skippers said, in that light air, "it was a waterline race."  In general, boats with longer hulls and therefore lower handicaps did better, which is typical for a PHRF fleet in light air.  But Reacher was 18th of 34, and I was 26th, finishing in 3 hours 29 min.  Reacher was done in 3:09. (Full disclosure:  two boats abandoned and four were DSQ for whatever reason).  Of the 28 that finished, I was in ahead of a S2 11.0 (handicap 161) and a Catalina 309 (HC 186), and Reacher also bested a Hunter 27, a Hunter 38, an S-9.2 and a Catalina 28, among others.  I should add Reacher's a pretty fine sailor.
      Needless to say, Reacher and I were pretty darn pleased with these little boats.  They kept moving in the light air, pointed well, reached well, ran well.  We spent a long time after the race admiring them and talking about what mods we like on each of ours.  We couldn't have kept up with the big boats in this year's Mac race, of course, given the 6 to 8 foot waves and the 30 mph winds on the nose.  But in this race, hey, we were right in there.  And it was a blast to be out on the water on such a beautiful day.
      And photos?  I wish I had some, but sorry folks,  can't race singlehanded and take pix, too.  I might have one, and might have a gps track.  Will see if I can find download.
      But be glad you have a Core Sound.  Great boat. 
    • By greendane
      Hi All--I picked up a CS17 almost a year ago. Yesterday I finally got it flipped over for some maintenance on the keel. There is some exposed wood and am not sure the best way to go about this. Looking for input from the fine folks here.

      First, I plan to take off the aluminum rail and the two steel (not stainless) trailer "roller guards" (the aluminum covers the front 2/3 of the keel--the back only has the two guards). Next, I plan to remove the paint the length of the keel (and an inch or so on either side of it) and start removing bad wood. If it's not too bad, I'm thinking I'll fill it up back to original form with thickened epoxy (with wood flour). If there are places where it's worse, I'll carve out that section and epoxy some oak in to replace it. Because I didn't build it, I'm not sure how it was constructed but it looks like the keel was glassed. After I fill it all back in, should I reglass it? One layer? And am I better to use something other than aluminum? I've read about brass and all that, but most of this wear comes from the trailer, not use in the water or on beaches. 
      Second, as you can see in the pictures, the bow takes a little bit of a beating. I primarily boat in the saltwater around Camano and Whidbey Islands north of Seattle. The beaches are pretty rocky most of the time (and I do my best to find the "softest" landings I can). You can also see some of the roller scars from not quite getting it lined up before pulling in onto the trailer. (I'm getting better at it but I sail single-handed a good bit of the time--and sometimes the water conditions are pretty choppy at retrieval) I'm wondering what options I have to keep this part of the boat better protected. Extra layers of epoxy? Some strips of glass? Other? 
      Thanks in advance. 

    • By theyachtcaptain
      Almost done! 


    • By ecgossett
      Due to time constraints and wanting to spend more time with family before next deployment I switched from the EC2012 to the Ultra Marathon 2012. I took great heed of the articles of people who dropped out of the EC and regretted not making their goal.
      Is anyone else here entered in either race this year?
      Any advice for outfitting my CS17 for the race? My three todo things before race are:
      1) Oarlocks (looking at http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/oarlocks/index.htm)
      2) Add foldup ladder on transom.
      3) Mast stowage when down (need advice) for bridges.
      Do you guys usually row with mast up or down?
      V/R, Edward
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.