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greendane

Trailer for Core Sound 17

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Hi All. Looking for advice on this specific ez-loader trailer type for a CS-17. I'm shopping used and hoping to be all in for under $500 and need galvanized for the salt water.

 

First, I don't know what impact those swiveling bunks would have on a non-aluminium boat.

Second, I'm trying to limit overhang to less than 4 feet.

Third, while I could add keel rollers forward of the joint, it seems like a pretty big hole in the middle (between the rear and the triangle joint where I could add one). Seems like I'd want to have one there in the middle of outer space? 

 

Of the lighter-duty trailers I've seen recommended on the forums (capacity 600-1000 lbs), this is pretty common to find this model in my neck of the woods. This one is going for $350. 

 

Appreciate the feedback. Thanks. 

ez loader 2.jpg

ez loader.jpg

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That trailer looks to me like it would be workable provided that the post that the winch is mounted on can be moved to balance the boat over the wheels (I can't see if it is bolted or welded onto the trailer frame).  On second glance, are the wheels far enough apart?

You could accomplish both goals of adding rollers and of limiting overhang by adding a longitudinal beam to carry the rollers.  I've shown the new beam mounted underneath the trailer frame to keep the boat low for ease of launching but if that setup doesn't allow enough road clearance you could obviously put the beam on top of the frame.

   The swivelling bunks shouldn't be a problem.  The last I heard, the recommendation was to support a CS17 by the rollers with the bunks adjusted to keep the boat from falling over rather than to support the weight of the boat.

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I believe you're over thinking this a bit. Bunks will support the boat's weight just fine, without the need for an aft centerline roller. More importantly is how the trailer is setup, for tongue weight, loading and balance. That trailer look like it's axle carriage can slide forward, which you should do, as far as practical, to get the boat more closely centered on the trailer and limit aft overhang. A couple of rollers forward is a good idea, but loading guides are going to be your real friend at the ramp. I like to use two sets of loading guides, a set forward, to keep the bow on the trailer's centerline and the vertical rear mounted poles, that keep her butt centered, when loading.

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Yes - Balance is the most important thing.  That's the place to start when setting the trailer up.  I suggested the extra longitudinal beam because at some point a decision has to be made about whether to buy a given trailer and it's an easier decision to make if you know a way to make it fit if it ends up being too short to be legal once it's set up with the correct balance.

    Bunks may support the weight just fine but I was passing along the designer's advice to carry the weight on the rollers rather than the bunks (I hope I didn't get it wrong).  When I set my trailer up that way it was an easy matter to back up to the edge of the water and let the boat roll off the trailer.  The only part of my trailer that ever went into the water was the tire treads.

   One thing I didn't add was that if I bought the trailer in the photo I would get it all nice and balanced and if there was too much tongue left on the trailer I'd hack it off so the whole rig wasn't too long.

   At any rate it looks like Greendane has two nods of approval for that type of trailer and we'll be happy to help him figure it out if he hits a "bump in the road" trying to set it up. :)

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Having owned a Load Rite 16 trailer for the past few years I can say that it's been the perfect size for launching Petunia without much more fuss than adjusting the bunks angle from it's traveling position (aft ends of bunks raised to conform better to the hull shape), to a simple slide off when the bunks are lowered.

One thing I did find this past weekend was that the tongue/trailer jack seem to be the most susceptible while storing the boat. I had a call from the marina last week in which they told me "you might want to come over here, it appears that someone has run over your trailer..." SO obviously I did and found that "apparently" a commercial trucking company was moving a large boat from the travel lift to a storage position and they clipped the tongue/jack of the trailer, (see pix). Boat seems unscathed, but the masts now both have a slight tweak and I'm wondering if a little whip lash activity could have been the culprit. I had to laugh when the insurance adjuster asked which  repair shop I might want to take the masts to for a look, since most shops would look at the carbon fiber wraps, and wooden plug at the mast head before telling me it was a "custom job".

Long story short, NO witnesses, therefore it's considered a "hit and run"by the police. Boat US insurance ( now really Geico) will pay for a replacement trailer as the Load Rite distributor came and "totaled" the trailer saying the frame is out of alignment, etc. and Petunia and I have a looooong road trip coming up in the Fall (more to follow on that one...).

In short, a good trailer makes much of what we want to do with our boats possible.

 

bent-tongue-2.jpg

bent-tongue-3.jpg

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Keep your eye on craigslist.  Be picky.  You can spend a lot of money modifying a trailer.  I use etrailer.com for this sort of thing.  For salt water use, you need a galvanized trailer, of course.  Also, there are times when a tilt trailer is handy.  I don't have this feature.  Once, when reservoir levels were low, I couldn't get the boat deep enough in the water to launch.  

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Greendane - I'm not sure what WA state rule you're finding that says the overhang needs to be less than 4'.  The RCW I find says:

 

RCW 46.44.034

Maximum lengths—Front and rear protrusions.

*** CHANGE IN 2017 *** (SEE 1149-S.SL) ***

(1) The load, or any portion of any vehicle, operated alone upon the public highway of this state, or the load, or any portion of the front vehicle of a combination of vehicles, shall not extend more than three feet beyond the front wheels of such vehicle, or the front bumper, if equipped with front bumper. This subsection does not apply to a front-loading garbage truck or recycling truck while on route and actually engaged in the collection of solid waste or recyclables at speeds of twenty miles per hour or less.
(2) No vehicle shall be operated upon the public highways with any part of the permanent structure or load extending in excess of fifteen feet beyond the center of the last axle of such vehicle. This subsection does not apply to "specialized equipment" designated under 49 U.S.C. Sec. 2311 that is operated on the interstate highway system, those designated portions of the federal-aid primary system, and routes constituting reasonable access from such highways to terminals and facilities for food, fuel, repairs, and rest.
 
That says the overhang can't be more than 15'.
 
Is there something else I'm missing?  I've trailered an 18' boat all over WA with an overhang on the 5 1/2' range for the last 30 years with no issues or complaints.  It's all about getting the tongue weight at 10% of the trailer & boat weight so it doesn't fish tail.
 
If there is a real rule limiting it to 4' I'd really like to know - all three of my boats exceed that.
 
Paul

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Hi Paul. I asked a State Trooper I know. While it may not be that it is enforced much, this RCW applies if I understood him correctly. 

 

RCW 46.37.140
Lamps, reflectors, and flags on projecting load.
(1) On any vehicle having a load that extends more than four inches beyond its sides or more than four feet beyond its rear, there must be displayed red or orange fluorescent warning flags, not less than eighteen inches square, marking the extremities of such loads.
(2) Whenever the load upon any vehicle extends to the rear four feet or more beyond the bed or body of the vehicle, there must be displayed at the extreme rear end of the load at the times specified in RCW 46.37.020:
(a) Two red lamps, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the rear;
(b) Two red reflectors, visible at night from all distances within six hundred feet to one hundred feet to the rear when directly in front of lawful lower beams of headlamps, and located so as to indicate maximum width; and
(c) A red lamp on each side, visible from a distance of at least five hundred feet to the side, and located so as to indicate maximum overhang.

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All that said, I think I'll concern myself less with the overhang and more with the tongue weight and axel placement. The biggest hassle I see on Craigslist is that most trailers come with a boat you have to get rid of that doesn't work. 😉

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I have about three feet of overhang on mine and don't worry about it too much-  I do take my motor off for trailering though since it just seems like it is not a smart idea to add that weight cantilevered over the end-

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13 minutes ago, Thrillsbe said:

Taking the motor off the transom is a good idea.  It reduces the polar moment of (rotational) inertia.

Yeah, what he said :)

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Greendane - Thanks for the information on the overhang - I will go actually measure mine rather than guesstimate! 

 

My 18' boat (picture below) has been on this same trailer (https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tro/6135876390.html ) since shortly after I built it - and I love it.  It's loads easy & quick, always tracks right down the center regardless of how crooked the boat is before I start cranking and I can load & unload the boat with the axle hubs level with the water.  I do store it inside and I have had to do some weld repair on it at one point & painted it twice - but pretty good for 30 years of on & off saltwater service.  This guy is asking a bit much for a painted trailer 1970's trailer but he's had it listed before so he may be willing to come down a lot.

 

The CS 15' I built (since sold) I put on a much smaller galv trailer like what you were looking at - and then we put rollers on the back.

Paul

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Thanks Paul. 

 

There's this one here for $400. I think these are the same CE Smith that are available through Cabela's for about $900  Capacity = 800lbs. But at $400, I'd still need to add rollers--probably at least 3, maybe 4? That's another $100-$150. And it looks like this one could use some bearing buddies. (The rollers I have are pretty hammered. I think only one turns. I might be able to rebuild them for less though?)

 

But given the overhang code in the RCW, I get a little concerned. I was in North Carolina a few weeks ago and the highways are so much less congested that I think its easier for guys like @Alan Stewart to get away with overhang like the below. I take both the motor and the rudder off when I trailer it. But maybe it would be ok?

 

As rickety as mine is, what I like about it is that there is a walk way down the middle. I usually back down until the aft roller is just under the water surface. But this usually means the wheels are submerged. In saltwater no less. It also has a pretty long tongue that allows me to put the tailgate on my pickup down to see when backing up for retrieval. By the time I can see the trailer in my mirror it's already too far gone. But if I add guides to the end of the new trailer, that might solve that problem. Or I could get a shin-buster (aka hitch extension) to get the crank out past the tailgate. This trailer is a bit longer

 

 

20140807_160559.jpg

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Watch your overall length of truck and trailer.  Washington State Ferries tier their prices in painful ten foot intervals "under 30 feet", "under 40 feet", and "under 50 feet".   I'm able to stay under 40 feet but I had to position the mast so it hangs over the front of the CS17 and shift the trailer axle forward to achieve a manageable tongue weight.   

The fixed axle position on your proposed trailer might make you comprise either tongue weight or overall length.   

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I think that as long as you don't let the boat fill with water while its sitting on the trailer you're not likely to have any issues with the boat warping or distorting from being supported by bunks or rollers with just a single keel roller at about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way back from the bow.  My 18' boat & my Snipe are both supported that way - and they've never had an issue.

I've seen flooded boats have real issues - big dents in the hull at the support points - because of all the weight of getting full of rain water.  Of course it never rains on Camano Island.... 

Good luck hunting for a trailer!  It took me nearly 4 months to find what I was looking for the CS-15 I sold - and I found that one on Camano!

 

Paul

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Paul, 

 

I'm starting to notice the difficulty in finding a trailer.  Maybe I need to car top my Spindrift 12 for awhile.  I thought I wanted a Trailex, but I've not heard great things about its durability.  For $1200 new, it better be rock-solid.  

 

Around here, dinghy sailors appear to be using EZ-Loaders.  Used trailers, even for PWCs, are scarce here.  

https://sacramento.craigslist.org/boa/6129953544.html

 

I might buy an EZ-Loader 

 

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Yeah, EZ Loaders is mostly what I find here too. Be patient and check multiple times daily. There are good apps for CraigsList that allow you to check multiple areas at once (I live on a county line so there are two areas I want to see from and don't want to bounce in and out of craigslist serching). 

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I think I found a new EZ loader with 1000 lb weight rating.  I think it has torsion springs, so I'm not sure I can adjust them to the boat weight like you can with leaf springs.  Otherwise, it's a great looking trailer.  The guy is the main Lazer dinghy supplier around here and these are the trailers he uses for light sailboats.  Any advice? I'll post some pictures in a bit.  

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