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Docpal last won the day on November 6

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About Docpal

  • Birthday 07/17/1945

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    Nopolo, Baja California Sur, Mexico
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  1. I have also tried a few solutions for the open cockpit style of boat. "Petunia" My CS 17 has a trunk cabin so I didn't really need one on her, but her Sister, Daphne , a Drascombe Dabber yawl, IS an open cockpit design so I tried using a Scottish "hoop" tent ( Vango F10 Xenon UL Tent ) which works VERY well since I also have two masts on Daphne as tying off points. Plus this is a double walled tent as rigged so there is little/NO condensation on it's walls...And one could either keep it's existing bottom intact if they had platform/ sleeping boards in place, OR cut out the bottom of the tent and have a VERY tall interior space. I have more room in the hoop style tents, than my domes. Some versions have doors at both ends.
  2. Jay, Probably the easiest/safest place is the marina at Puerto Escondido which is about 1/2 mile from where I have my current mooring, and 20 miles South of Loreto. They are a " world class" facility with every amenity one would want. First world pricing, but they are also the ONLY marina within a few hundred miles...On site facilities for car/van storage,etc. Berthing at a pier is pricier than using one of their mooring balls, but then you need a dinghy to get back/forth from the boat. Next closest place with facilities is La Paz (200 miles to the South) which is a very large city/port and you CAN get anything there as well as having the choice of multiple marinas and a larger cruising community. That's roughly half way between Loreto, and Cabo San Lucas. Launch ramps down here are usually used by the Pangeros for their fishing boats, and I have yet to see a floating tie up pier near a ramp in ANY of the marinas, so launching can be a little dicey at times. Draft IS an issue if you plan to cruise the coastline. More often than not the beaches are rocky, rather than sandy so you don't want to beach the boat everywhere unless you have really checked it out. In the first picture of this post I was able to sail right up ON to the beach because I had been there before and KNEW it was small gravel rather than mini boulders. More often than not we anchor OFF the beach and ferry gear in from there. I've even thought of a small dinghy for some of these locations as the surge can keep one off the beach a ways...We don't get severe tides here (a few feet at most) . My local friends and I are just about the ONLY people who are doing camp cruising down here, and the Sea of Cortez coastline is literally unreachable in most areas without a boat. The Baja coastline looks very much like this, with numerous off shore islands, for over one thousand miles...It would be the PERFECT place for a Water tribe event....
  3. Now that we are finally out of full lock down we were able to get out on the water again and do some coastal cruising here in Southern Baja. Wind was fluky, and anywhere from 0-22 mph so I got some reefing practice in about mid channel when it started to blow. Some beaches down here let you nose right up to the shore, and the surge keeps me anchored off the beach in other areas. NOT fun remembering that you forgot something out on the boat after dark and you have to swim out to retrieve it... I am going to have to upgrade my boarding ladder setup. I can still pull myself up into the boat as long as I can push off the bottom, but when I'm anchored over my head it's getting a little dicey... Had one interesting encounter; it's been SO dry down here (I think it's rained 3 times in the last 4 years...) that the local island bees have had their water sources dry up. So when boats land on the island they swarm ANY fresh water source they can find. My 5 gallon water bladder had a slight leak in the nozzle, and the bees used it to suck two gallons out of the bag overnight...!
  4. I agree with Pmm1950. I bought a simple Harbor Freight rivet gun like this one- https://www.harborfreight.com/3-16-inch-air-hydraulic-riveter-93458.html . But then I filed down the nose piece so it fit exactly inside the groove on the SS mast track. Each rivet got a dab of Sikaflex and then was drawn up nice and tight with only a small compressor needed.
  5. What about a "collar" of pool noodles? Cheap, easy to work with, could be strung around the hull with a line through their centers, etc. From what I could find on the internet a 3"noodle provides 2-2.25 pounds of flotation per running foot. SO I replaced the 40 year old bags of popcorn styrofoam in my Drascombe Dabber ( "Daphne" who is Petunia's sibling...) and added approximately 350 pounds of flotation. I have one of the Duckworks boat rollers which Paul suggests, but because of it's girth I can't imagine HOW you'd incorporate it into a dinghy situation...You can even pair the noodles to get double the flotation without adding much more weight, or volume...
  6. Jim, I have been playing with the stop concept and trying to rig a little "tab" I can move to create a "temporary bottom" of the PVC tube until I get it upright. So far I have just rested the mast bottom on the lip of the Carbon fiber deck tube ,and with the "stop"on the forward face of the PVC I can keep it in place while under control, and then just lower it all the way. I used such tall/large pieces for the cheeks because my trunk cabin height ( see attached) would not allow me to start from a fully horizontal position if it was shorter. At this height I can lay the mast flat on the cabin before I start the hoist. And since this is really the prototype design I always go larger, as it's easier to scale back... PS- The design as shown above does not close completely around the mast so the sail track is not interfered with while lowering it into the deck tube....
  7. Hola All, While in lock down mode I too have been working on my answer for the mast stepping issue. My cabin makes it a little more difficult than planned to get solid footing so I wanted a way to use both what was already there, and some "mechanical" advantage for the hoist. I decided to use up what was here and make my own tabernacle that would; 1. Allow me to set the foot of the mast into a socket 2. Do the hoist/lowering with the help of my double topping lifts, and the bow roller. 3. Allow the original MK1 design of a rotating mast to STILL function 4. Be removable if i wanted to clear the deck a bit. Made the "cheeks(?)" out of some Padauk I had stashed from her build days, and then took some PVC pipe, a brass piano hinge, and a few large SS bolts to fab it up. Rigged a "tab"on the bottom of the PVC step to both clear my bow cleat, and also to "stop" the hoist when it came into contact with the stub of the mast tube I had left protruding. Once raised I can simply lift the PVC out of the notches on the cheeks, and store it until/if I need it to unstep the main mast. I have only used it a few times so far, but it works well and when we are allowed near the water again I hope to give it a try while on her trailer at the launching beach. report will (eventually) follow. PS- Mast float project is also on hold as I can't even get to the beach to float test the rig.
  8. Hi, Been awhile as I have been in Summer migration mode and spent much of the time in the mountains of Northern Ca. Petunia now has an older, smaller Sister- "Daphne" who is a Drascombe Dabber . She will probably spend much of her career down in Baja as a Panga, but we're still working on developing a small , all species , sail boat fleet down there so I'll probably get a chance to try a lug sail as well. While recently RE-reading Paul's capsize story and the followups I had a few thoughts about a "turtle stopper" per se. I called and spoke to Alan and got some numbers to play with regarding my specific concerns; I was a "Mk 1. xxx with a trunk cabin" so I sort of fall between the "MK 1's and MK 3's " in terms of windage, weight, etc. Alan gave me a target of 25 pounds buoyancy at the masthead and I was trying to figure out how to do that without adding ANY more rigging to what is now there, so that eliminated the hoisting a gold fish idea. I had already installed pool noodles inside both masts while building in the hopes of stopping such an event, but to date I have never really done "the Test". Now what I am now thinking of trying is to open one of those square seat cushions we ALL have lying around and using the thin, flat ,foam panels they are made of to create shaped (tri angular most likely) panels which would then be inserted into pockets at the head of BOTH sails....Why only have flotation on ONE mast? A few of my own prior capsizes would have probably wiped out something mounted on the mast head so I'd rather have something I know is going to be able to take the fall . These panels shouldn't be thick enough to alter performance, and they "should" roll /fold nicely within the sail. The one disadvantage ( if it is one) I can foresee is that if you are reefed/double reefed your buoyancy is lowered with the head of the sail. Not sure how that would all play out. Any ideas? If you DO open up a cushion as I have ( and will show below) you'll see that they are nicely packaged with ten small panels, 5 per side with a plastic separator. Half of a cushion is a little over 1.25" thick without being compressed. The panels themselves are about 15"by 15". Here is where I am hoping I/We can figure out the actual buoyancy of said panels. If a throw cushion can keep "an adult"afloat, and "an adult life jacket for more than 90 pounds" are true, then how much of that foam is needed to get the 25-35 pounds we seem to be looking for? ( Or half if we do BOTH masts) The standard life jacket pictured below is ALSO made up of nice, thin panels as well and supposedly supports almost 4 times what we are looking for. The concept is to see what it will take in terms of volume, and then add two triangular pockets at the head of BOTH sails which mimic the existing angle. Taller/joined foam sections would let you come down further in thinner stacks, etc. A fuller mast head sail section of an added 1.25"on either side wouldn't be very noticeable (since I have tan bark sails it might NOT be noticed at all ...). SO, I have this idea, I have the cushions/jackets/foam panels, extra tan bark sail cloth, BUT Petunia and her sails are sitting 1500 miles away down in Baja, MX which means I won't even get down there for at least another 3-4 weeks so if anyone gets a chance, and wants to try this, go for it. Doing a double float test is one of the first things on my agenda when I do get back to Baja as I need to see if either of my pool noodle masts leak air, and if so are they sealable? Then we'll try putting her over and see how my current foam flotation compartment scheme holds her. I'm throwing this idea out now because I'd like to hear if there are other options to the idea of an unobtrusive, reliable, uncomplicated method to keep from rolling beyond the recovery zone we can all be working toward. BTW- Does anyone know what the CG uses as a bench mark when they say "adult" ? ( at least weight wise....). Side note- I'm sort of glad that I have a hybrid center board as well in that I added some lead to her lower end to get her to drop quickly, but I also have the hold down release cleat in play so theoretically the board should NOT retract if she's on her side. Please feel free to pick this idea apart or reconstitute any of it's content as if in an "open source flotation project"... Bill P Docpal
  9. Paul/tfrei, I think it was Paul Jost who came up with the idea of using a ring on the mizzen sprit to change the angle of the sheets and get them above the motor. I use this on Petunia and it works very well. Duckworks has nice bronze rings too.... https://jostboats.blogspot.com/ If you scroll down to changes he shows the ring...
  10. Alex, Good idea ! Maybe even styrofoam peanut packing pieces....? Someone still in the building process feel like taking one for the team here?
  11. Paul, It wasn't easy/fun stuffing the standard masts with the noodles...! I had to slit them, and cut off some of the overlaps which is why I resorted to the aluminum tape to keep them in a small, tight shape. Since the upper 6 inches of the masts are wooden plugs it wasn't a complete fill. I too thought about the 2 part foam, but from my experience it would have expanded partially down the tube and then blocked further access (although air tight 'compartments' might not have been bad either...) At the time I think the web said that each noodle could support 40-50 pounds ( about the weight of a young kid I suppose) , so I got the equivalent of maybe 2-2 1/2 noodles smushed inside after they were all carved/wrapped. Here's a shot of how it looked: the white wire was installed with the idea that I might sometime in the future want to mount a mast head VHF antenna , still hasn't happened... I guess the simplest "test" of this concept would be to get just the masts down to the water and see if they float on their own, but due to their length I'll have to trailer the entire boat down there rather than hang them off the top of my SUV...
  12. Paul, Well written, and worthy of concern. I too "went over" a few weeks ago, but not in "Petunia" . I was sailing with a friend in his boat and after a great day of sailing toward an off shore island we headed home and like you had a snag in the main (sheet) which kept the main from coming across on a tack, and splash.... Since we both had gone through prior capsizes in our lives we knew the drill and while she was somewhere between 90-115 degrees over we swam to the mast, unfastened the halyard, pulled the sail down as far as we could, and then stood on the centerboard. Nothing happened..... It was then we realized that we couldn't really get a good hold of the side deck as there was nothing there to grab...She was also a bit beamier than any of the CS boats which made that distance a bit further to reach. Luckily the water we went over in was somewhat protected from current/waves, but we still had wind to contend with. And being May the water down here was warm enough to spend time in without sapping our strength (at 73 I was the junior crew member...). We tried just about everything we could with what we had on hand and were about to take off our life jackets as a way to get the mast head to break the surface when we saw a kid on a jet ski watching us from the beach, so we hailed her and she jetted out to help. It was only with her lifting the mast head to 90 degrees that we were able to both stand on the board and get the boat back on it's feet. If this had happened 30 minutes earlier we could easily have been on our way to El Salvador as there is no Coast guard, Sea tow, etc. in this area... After getting back to the beach and collecting our gear and ourselves we both started making up 'the list' of things we both needed to do in the event of a capsize in less favorable conditions. First thing I did was to add a mid ship cleat on both sides of the cabin, and then rigged a rescue line that could be reached from the water, or while standing on the center board (see pix) . Then I sorted out a way to have my boarding ladder rigged/ready for deployment from the water (pix to follow as I am re varnishing ALL wood on the boat due to a poor choice of coatings, more in a later post...). Both of my masts are stuffed with pool noodles wrapped in aluminum foil (possibly a better radar reflector) so now I need to get back in the water and do the real capsize test to see how long they help keep me on my beam ends, if at all. And since I always keep at least one anchor in the cockpit ready to deploy I would also now be sure I had enough line clear so I could try to get the anchor down while doing some of the acrobatics required in this situation instead of being caught in a current that would only add to the excitement. I've also thought of a trailing line just in case this happened and when back on her feet she decided she didn't need human help to continue on her own. I am VERY impressed that the both of you were able to re-board a runaway boat !!! Thanks for starting this thread as it could help somebody save their boat/life.... Bill P.
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