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PaulSmith last won the day on May 25 2017

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  1. An option you might think about is Tap Plastic's flex hinge: a continuous hinge made of acrylic & a urethane flexing piece. I bought some for a project & it was too stiff for what I was doing but a hatch gives you a lot more leverage. With the acrylic leaves you'd have to carefully drill clearance holes for the fasteners - don't leave any stresses on the acrylic except the clamping force. They claim it's UV stable but... https://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/handles_hinges_latches/flex_fold_2_hinge/124
  2. Looks great! I'm amazed at how nice the bow strip came out! Well worth your efforts! I'd love to get together some time as I'd love to see what the CS17 is like compared to the CS15 my father started & I finished. I bet the CS 17 will sail circles around my 18' gaff rigged camp cruiser! I sold the CS15 as three sailboats was enough for me. Paul
  3. There does look like there are a lot of the smaller galvanized trailers in our area right now. All with two pivoting rear bunks and one center roller forward. And everyone wants between $800 and $1000 for them. That's not too far off of new prices. I had noticed in previous searches that the supply of trailers is good in the spring but the prices tend to be high. Later in the year the prices go down but so does the supply. Not a supply demand kind of thing but a desperation to get rid of it in a falling demand market I think.
  4. I like the method! It depends on getting a good line down the pipe - assumedly a snapped chalk line. You're still going to have the C section spread out more where it is bent in a tighter radius - so it won't look like it has the same width everywhere. If you've bought the tube try it & let us know how it works! Paul
  5. And I've done it with a couple of dowels clamped in my vise to make a bending jig. I've done this with stainless, aluminum & my favorite, brass 1/2 oval. If you have predrilled stuff you just have to be very careful bending near the holes. And I agree with PAR - bending the tube is going to be a real tricky job - as will cutting it before or after. If you allow it to twist at all while cutting it in half you might as well give up then. Paul
  6. I think that as long as you don't let the boat fill with water while its sitting on the trailer you're not likely to have any issues with the boat warping or distorting from being supported by bunks or rollers with just a single keel roller at about 1/4 to 1/3 of the way back from the bow. My 18' boat & my Snipe are both supported that way - and they've never had an issue. I've seen flooded boats have real issues - big dents in the hull at the support points - because of all the weight of getting full of rain water. Of course it never rains on Camano Island.... Good luck hunting for a trailer! It took me nearly 4 months to find what I was looking for the CS-15 I sold - and I found that one on Camano! Paul
  7. Greendane - Thanks for the information on the overhang - I will go actually measure mine rather than guesstimate! My 18' boat (picture below) has been on this same trailer (https://seattle.craigslist.org/tac/tro/6135876390.html ) since shortly after I built it - and I love it. It's loads easy & quick, always tracks right down the center regardless of how crooked the boat is before I start cranking and I can load & unload the boat with the axle hubs level with the water. I do store it inside and I have had to do some weld repair on it at one point & painted it twice - but pretty good for 30 years of on & off saltwater service. This guy is asking a bit much for a painted trailer 1970's trailer but he's had it listed before so he may be willing to come down a lot. The CS 15' I built (since sold) I put on a much smaller galv trailer like what you were looking at - and then we put rollers on the back. Paul
  8. Greendane - I'm not sure what WA state rule you're finding that says the overhang needs to be less than 4'. The RCW I find says: RCW 46.44.034 Maximum lengths—Front and rear protrusions. *** CHANGE IN 2017 *** (SEE 1149-S.SL) *** (1) The load, or any portion of any vehicle, operated alone upon the public highway of this state, or the load, or any portion of the front vehicle of a combination of vehicles, shall not extend more than three feet beyond the front wheels of such vehicle, or the front bumper, if equipped with front bumper. This subsection does not apply to a front-loading garbage truck or recycling truck while on route and actually engaged in the collection of solid waste or recyclables at speeds of twenty miles per hour or less. (2) No vehicle shall be operated upon the public highways with any part of the permanent structure or load extending in excess of fifteen feet beyond the center of the last axle of such vehicle. This subsection does not apply to "specialized equipment" designated under 49 U.S.C. Sec. 2311 that is operated on the interstate highway system, those designated portions of the federal-aid primary system, and routes constituting reasonable access from such highways to terminals and facilities for food, fuel, repairs, and rest. That says the overhang can't be more than 15'. Is there something else I'm missing? I've trailered an 18' boat all over WA with an overhang on the 5 1/2' range for the last 30 years with no issues or complaints. It's all about getting the tongue weight at 10% of the trailer & boat weight so it doesn't fish tail. If there is a real rule limiting it to 4' I'd really like to know - all three of my boats exceed that. Paul
  9. All you need before you put on the tape is enough epoxy resin on the wood to ensure that the wood isn't going to suck up the epoxy out of the glass & dry the glass out. It is easier to put cloth on over a cured layer of resin - then you can slide it around to line it up. Be sure to squeegee the cloth down tight to the wood when you do it - you don't want it floating around in a sea of epoxy - just enough to absolutely wet out the cloth. Then add enough coats of resin to fill in the weave of the cloth & you're ready to put on the keel (on a bed of filled epoxy) Nice old growth hard Doug Fir? Not that wimpy white wood stuff that they claim is Doug Fir?. The CS-15 had a 4" skeg at the stern - I don't know what a CS-17 should have. Paul
  10. On what metal to use for the keel strip I bought 1/8" x 3/4" 316 S/S flat bar 12' long from OnlineMetals.com and then picked it up at their Fisherman's Terminal location in Seattle so no freight. Cost me $24 for the 12' piece. I had to buy some more to make the whole keel - but it wasn't as expensive as the shiny boating stuff. I didn't care about the shine....
  11. As long as you do the scarf joint at least 8 times as long as the height & make sure you don't starve the joint of epoxy it should be fine. Don't starve the joint means get the wood wet with straight epoxy first, let it soak in a few minutes, then add epoxy thickened with fibrous thickener ( I use some West System stuff but I can't remember the name right now or even very fine sawdust but not micro balloons ), clamp firmly but not as hard as you can and let cure. You need to keep it straight while it cures as the viscosity of the epoxy will drop as it self heats during the curing process - which can make stuff slide around. If you don't wet the wood first the wood can pull the epoxy out of the filler making the whole joint dry & weak. Clamp it between blocks with saran Wrap in between so you don't glue the blocks on. Then sand smooth & use. Paul
  12. Bryan - I'd epoxy the keel/skeg even if you expect the trailer to grind the epoxy off in spots. I wouldn't glass around the tip of the keel or skeg - you would have to put a nearly full round radius on the skeg to be able to wrap standard fiberglass around it - and then you couldn't put a metal strip on it. I wouldn't have any great heartache about using douglas fir for the keel & the skeg though white oak would wear better. I think the oak holds fasteners better even when wet. You would want to put several coats of epoxy on it - one to soak in & then two to add thickness to the layer. I would epoxy the skeg & keel directly onto the hull. That way the fasteners used to attached it don't get wiggled around creating a leak path into the hull. I you ever need to take it off you can sand it down flush with a electric disk sander pretty darn quick. Just my opinions. Paul
  13. I just looked up Xynole & it sounds good! I've tried Kevlar fabric (I had a bunch of surplus stuff at one point) but once you wear down to the Kevlar is last really well but it gets fuzzy and it is hell trying to cover the fuzz up to get back to a smooth surface. Can you effectively sand the Xynole? The Kevlar just got fuzzier yet when you tried to sand it. Paul
  14. I would totally agree with your distinction. To date every boat I've built has been plywood. They are also all boats that get pulled out of the water when not in use making the swell to seal method annoying to manage. That doesn't mean the traditional method is bad - just not my preference.
  15. Bryan - Glad to help! After watching wooden boats at Tulare for all my life years my vote for the last 20 years is to encapsulate all wood in epoxy & make sure it stays sealed away from water. That means surfaces, screw holes, everything. Otherwise it swells & shrinks & checks. Wood is a great bendy structural material that doesn't wear out but letting it get wet is bad. Traditional wood boat builders would totally disagree with that. Roving & mat are two different types of fiberglass cloth - roving being very heavy & thick but woven & matt is random strands in a sheet. You need the wear pad full of glass fully wetted with resin but not floating in it. Read the Guogen Brothers book or similar. Never put resin over paint - when the paint fails (and it will) the resin just peels off. You want to sand down to good fiberglass/resin or clean wood before applying more resin & glass. Re the Keel - I just meant you could cut off the keel & sand it down flush to the hull without affecting the integrity of the hull. I would epoxy the keel to the hull screwing it down unless you have a way to clamp it without screws (the screws are just there to hold the parts together while the epoxy cures) and then put a full length metal strip covering the entire length of the keel full width of the keel. Epoxy the keel before putting the metal on & put epoxy in the screw holes to seal the wood before screwing the screw in. If the metal you found wasn't brass, bronze, stainless steel or aluminum replace it. try to match the fasteners to the metal you use. Hard to do with Aluminum - easier with stainless or bronze. Fisheries Supply has silicon bronze and inexpensive good stainless screws. If the boats spends most of it's time on the trailer and less int eh water this isn't a huge issue. Look up Galvanic Corroision. Enjoy! If you're not in a rush I am at Tulare about every other weekend and could come by to look at what you have. Paul
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