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Walt S.

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Walt S. last won the day on December 12 2017

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About Walt S.

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  1. Walt S.

    Trailer for Core Sound Mark 3 boats.

    Steve, Re: the galvanized/aluminum choice, the guy at WestMarine suggested buying a painted trailer if you can't find a galvanized one and just adding sacrificial zincs to it to keep it from rusting. I don't know if there are any aluminum trailers for a CS20 - I don't think Trailex makes any that big and they're the only aluminum trailer manufacturer I could find.
  2. Walt S.

    Flying S9N

    https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/10035-spindrift-12-build-log/?do=findComment&comment=100433
  3. Walt S.

    Spindrift 10 build

    My SPindrift is sapphire blue. You'll like it. I couldn't see the Stewie head until you pointed it out. That's the problem with boatbuilding - you see all the flaws and point them out to others.
  4. Walt S.

    Carbon Spindrift 10

    William, Have you thought of vacuum bagging these panels? The vacuum-bagged surfboards I've used were much lighter than the ones glassed with layup. http://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/VacuumBag-7th-Ed.pdf
  5. Walt S.

    Spindrift 10 build

    Alan did something similar with his CS15: towards the stern where the seat sides meet the stern seat, he put plywood so that there is no lip. Check through his videos on YouTube. I
  6. Walt S.

    Spindrift 12 build log

    I've removed some of the paint. You're right, they are parallel to the grain. I liked your gusset idea I just wanted to minimize re-painting. I ripped a 2x4 last night to make a dutchman for the gunwale but am not confident the result will be better. I should sand it down and re-post pictures so you all can see.
  7. Walt S.

    Spindrift 10 build

    Mine doesn't have any except as the seat tops taper outwards towards the corners by the stern and as it tapers outwards towards the thwarts. Check my thread, I think I have pictures. Sealing the seat tops to the seat bulkheads is a good idea to ensure the airtight compartments are airtight.
  8. Walt S.

    Spindrift 12 build log

    Thanks, Alan. Did you use a scarfing sled and a router to make the dutchman while you were at the show or just a pull saw? It seems like you're going to have to use hand tools for this no matter what.
  9. Walt S.

    Spindrift 12 build log

    Dave, Rather than raised oarlock blocks, a modification of the Bolger oarlocks might work. A second spacer could be braised or bolted underneath the first one to give the oarlocks the desired height above the gunwales. The materials are available at all the big box stores. http://www.jimsboats.com/webarchives/2002/15aug02.htm William, I think I'm going to sawzall off the oarlock horns and add side-mounted oarlocks: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2382&familyName=Perko+Side+Plate+Oarlock+Sockets I'm going to build some Bolger oarlocks using my harbor freight stick welder. I think I still need to do something about the damaged gunawales. I suppose I could try to flow some epoxy into the cracks. I'm not sure how well that would work. I don't think I could get any in.
  10. Walt S.

    Spindrift 10 build

    I've used a heat gun on the pump and it worked well. I've also put in the microwave for a few seconds.
  11. Walt S.

    Spindrift 12 build log

    Welp, I should've made the oarlock horns wider to accommodate side mount or angle mount sockets. Instead, I drilled for topmount sockets and the width of the gunwales + plywood was barely enough for the socket holes. I think rowing put enough stress on the starboard gunwale to crack it. In fact, I could see the gunwale flexing as I rowed. I now have a cracked gunwale. I'm thinking of drilling in the sides around the cracks and adding dowels with titebond or other wood glue. Does anyone else have suggestions?
  12. Walt S.

    Spindrift 11n build in process

    Are you going to glass over the tape?
  13. Walt S.

    Spindrift 11n build in process

    Looking great man. The bulkheads, quarter knees, breast hook, and transom all look like they fit perfectly. It's amazing how long it takes to move clamps and braces around. Make sure to check for twist before filleting. My method is on my thread.
  14. Walt S.

    Spindrift 12 build log

    Thanks, Don. The trailer has tongue weight. The trailer and the boat together are only 300 lbs so there's only so much I can add. I will put a spare tire further forward to add weight. I'm not ready for freeway trailering. I haven't fully figured out how to secure the bow using only a bow painter. Yesterday, I used home depot poly line for the bow and found it too stretchy. I think also that Trailex intends for you to use the bow roller tower handles as a kind of cleat to secure the bowline. Now that I've built a boat, the real learning begins.
  15. Walt S.

    Spindrift 12 build log

    Guys, I adjusted the front roller higher so that it's supportign the keel. I'm not thrilled with the front bumper tower but didn't really want to buy the winch and tower. I'm just going to use another ratchet strap on the front. The oar leathers are duct-taped on. I'm going to try it out. Don, the wheels are 8". I could probably drop the bunks another 2 inches but was thrilled with how well they fit so I didn't want to adjust anything. The clearance of the keel over the center beam is actually not great. I did a good job measuring and beveling the bunks before I put on the boat. I can always adjust later. This trailer's so light I'm probably going to use is as a dolly when I get to the ramp. It's not very long, so it's impossible to see where it's going from the rearview. I probably need to add some guide-ons as Chick suggested. Finally, I ordered a clamp for the hitch to eliminate the slop between the hitch and receiver. I took the empty trailer up to about 50 mph and didn't notice any fishtailing.
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