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Walt S.

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Walt S. last won the day on December 12 2017

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  1. Two passes with unthickened epoxyon each piece to be glued then thicken the third coat with cabosil to mayonnaise consistency. To spread the thickened epoxy, You can make a notched spreader with an adhesive spreader or buy one: https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-2430-Multi-Notch-Adhesive/dp/B00004YNMN?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ipad-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B00004YNMN
  2. Glue those pieces of plywood together on top of one-another to ensure they're symmetrical.
  3. The battens on the Spindrift are Bainbridge 5/8" untapered. Just go to a sail shop and have them cut you some new ones to size. They're outrageously expensive to buy on WestMarine and take 3 weeks to come from the UK.
  4. I originally started my project in a tent in the backyard with the best intentions of keeping it out of the garage. Eventually, my day of calamity came. High winds lifted the tent off the boat despite shoring it up with various 1x2s, galvanized pipes, and other damage control equipment. The rain started to fill the boat with water since I waterproofed the inside of the boat with 3 COATS OF EPOXY. My wife and I scrambled to get it inside. At that time, I hadn't glassed it or painted it or put on the seat tops and centerboard trunk, so it only weighed 60-80 pounds and I have a strong wife. Together, we pressed it overhead (she taking the heavier stern of course) and lifted it completely over the fence gate which wasn't wide-enough to go through. A bunch of other stuff had to be frantically moved out of the garage onto the side of the house. THe moral of the story, if any, is build a strong tent.
  5. Beautiful. And she never will be, my friend. haha.
  6. Steve, Re: the galvanized/aluminum choice, the guy at WestMarine suggested buying a painted trailer if you can't find a galvanized one and just adding sacrificial zincs to it to keep it from rusting. I don't know if there are any aluminum trailers for a CS20 - I don't think Trailex makes any that big and they're the only aluminum trailer manufacturer I could find.
  7. https://messing-about.com/forums/topic/10035-spindrift-12-build-log/?do=findComment&comment=100433
  8. My SPindrift is sapphire blue. You'll like it. I couldn't see the Stewie head until you pointed it out. That's the problem with boatbuilding - you see all the flaws and point them out to others.
  9. William, Have you thought of vacuum bagging these panels? The vacuum-bagged surfboards I've used were much lighter than the ones glassed with layup. http://www.westsystem.com/wp-content/uploads/VacuumBag-7th-Ed.pdf
  10. Alan did something similar with his CS15: towards the stern where the seat sides meet the stern seat, he put plywood so that there is no lip. Check through his videos on YouTube. I
  11. I've removed some of the paint. You're right, they are parallel to the grain. I liked your gusset idea I just wanted to minimize re-painting. I ripped a 2x4 last night to make a dutchman for the gunwale but am not confident the result will be better. I should sand it down and re-post pictures so you all can see.
  12. Mine doesn't have any except as the seat tops taper outwards towards the corners by the stern and as it tapers outwards towards the thwarts. Check my thread, I think I have pictures. Sealing the seat tops to the seat bulkheads is a good idea to ensure the airtight compartments are airtight.
  13. Thanks, Alan. Did you use a scarfing sled and a router to make the dutchman while you were at the show or just a pull saw? It seems like you're going to have to use hand tools for this no matter what.
  14. Dave, Rather than raised oarlock blocks, a modification of the Bolger oarlocks might work. A second spacer could be braised or bolted underneath the first one to give the oarlocks the desired height above the gunwales. The materials are available at all the big box stores. http://www.jimsboats.com/webarchives/2002/15aug02.htm William, I think I'm going to sawzall off the oarlock horns and add side-mounted oarlocks: https://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2382&familyName=Perko+Side+Plate+Oarlock+Sockets I'm going to build some Bolger oarlocks using my harbor freight stick welder. I think I still need to do something about the damaged gunawales. I suppose I could try to flow some epoxy into the cracks. I'm not sure how well that would work. I don't think I could get any in.
  15. I've used a heat gun on the pump and it worked well. I've also put in the microwave for a few seconds.
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