Paul356

That oar solution is very slick.

I guess I should amend that: 1 quart of primer, 1 of color. But if you're using primer as a fill coat, then you'll probably want two qts of primer to make sure you have enough to paint, sand, paint, sand, etc. Btw, I used Jamestown's deck paint for the floor inside, the paint with the grit already in it. Worked swell. I repainted those areas 7 years later with the same stuff, still worked swell.

I can do two coats on the hull of my 17 Mk I with a quart and still have some left over.

It's so great to read Graham's notes. I had an additional thought about my upwind day vs the Scamp. I finally just dropped the sails and kicked on the 2.5. Suzuki outboard. The 17 went dead upwind like a champ, and really a pretty dry ride. I was amazed at how easy the progress was. I don't want js thinking he'll get stuck downwind on a blustery day. I also had a chance to try Graham's tips later, on an equally blustery day, but without the waves. Worked swell. One thing I learned was not to try to point the usual 45 or 50 degrees off the wind, 55 or so is fine and still gets you up wind.

I've sailed a couple of trips in company with a Scamp. I agree the Scamp is quite slow compared to the CS. It is also fairly complicated to build, especially compared to the CS boats. A couple of folks from a large a reputable kit-making concern that will otherwise go unnamed stopped by our volunteer shop and saw the Scamp that is underconstruction there, and has been for quite some time. One of them said, "All that work, and still all you have is a Scamp." I agree (and agree with similar comments above). I, too, have been attracted by videos of some of the other Welsford boats but those, too, seem like bigger contrustion projects than a CS. But I think all the added features probably make them very seaworthy. Attributes of the Scamp, at least as I understand them from the companion mentioned above: It has the little cuddy that helps make the cockpit into a snug one-person sleeping area, if you have right tent. It will chug on through anything, albeit at it's own pace. I have seen it recover from a capsize, and it was very quick and essentially dry, done by one person. A capsize in a CS is a different matter, speaking unfortunately from experience. The one time the Scamp really clobbered me was in a pretty fresh breeze, probably sustained >20 with higher gusts, and waves 1-2 feet, maybe a bit higher. My friend in the Scamp put in a reef and went plugging to windward without another care. I could not get to wind! I had put double reefs in both sails, and wasn't sailing the 17 very well, I decided later (too much luffing, not enough holding course). I think I would have been better off with a single-reefed mizzen in that breeze, sheeted in sort of half way. I talked to Graham later and got some tips. I think I will do much better next time. But that Scamp kept on plugging. My friend in the Scamp is looking at a Longsteps as his next build, so he's sold on the Scamp ideas, but would like something with a longer waterline and more speed. Wow, that came outlonger than I expected.

I built my 17 from Graham's kit and echo everything Padre says.

I've done a lot of day sailing in my 17 (MkI) and also a lot of sail camping, fitted out with a dodger and lately a rear gizmo that makes a tent from the mizzen mast forward. I think it's great for both. I unexpectedly had 8 people aboard one day for daysailing, but it worked great. Great ballast on a breezy day. More freuqently day sail with two ro three adults and some kids aboard. Sailed part of the Everglades Challenge with a boat full of gear and one other guy aboard. We were probably pretty heavy but, again, good ballast for a breezy run and I felt like we were moving well. When I'm aboard by myself, it's a neat sailing dinghy and I need to remind myself to reef early. Never sailed a 15, so nothing to compare there, I'm afraid. But I'm a big fan of a 17 for lots of various uses.

the 20 is emminently buildable, but it won't happen overnight. and, perhaps not needed, but a clarifying note on don silsbee's note: Alan's 2d video shows construction of a CS 20 Mark III, with cabin and water ballast. You might be looking at that, but if you're looking at the 20' Mark 1, open boat, not water ballast, construction is quite a bit more straightforward. The 15-footer is much more like the 20' Mark 1. Techniques are the same, tho, generally, in both videos.

I've been leaving mine in the boat all winter, lead wires disconnected, ever since I saw the boatyard was storing the batteries it removed in an unheated area of the shed. Seems fine. I fully charge before leaving them.

So you sit on the centerboard trunk then, I guess?

Don, I ended up putting a second set of oar sockets forward. I sit on the cuddy top and row from there. Not the best, but it gets the job done, I guess. I find I want to extend the oars out too far, so need to fight that urge. I need to take shorter, less strenuous strokes. I made oars 10.5 feet long. My crew handled the rudder. Rowing from the cuddy top worked well enough to get through an adverse tide in the Everglades Challenge a couple years ago, but it is tiring. If anything got in the way, it was my life jacket, as I'd be pulling in and then dropping hands to make the recovery. My hands got caught in the front of the jacket. I did try rowing from the mizzen seat once, to see what it was like. I left the masts on shore and headed out rowing from the middle seat. I think I felt it was kind of low, as I remember propping myself up on a cushion. My verdict was that it rowed like a 400 pound boat. That is, not that swell. I had left the outboard on, and people kept stopping by, assuming I had engine trouble and was using the oars as Plan B. I guess no one rows in Wisconsin any more. Lately I've been using a canoe paddle from the side seat near the stern. In calmer water it works great. (Lock the rudder.) I haven't tried it against a full blown headwind. All in all, I have decided the best option is the outboard, even for a short haul. (I aso found the outboard works far better for steering with the rudder blade pulled up out of the water.) Maybe I should try rowing from a standup position, standing just in front of the mizzen and using the front oar sockets. But the last few trips, I haven't even brought the oars along. They are hard to store. --pb

The wind was very light, and I knew I could go on a broad reach and/or ddw for a long leg. I used the tiller lock a fair bit while I got things set up. I had all 3 sails on one side for a bit, but the greatest effect was wing on wing, main by the Lee, staysail on the opposite side from the main. Gybing no fun, since as you know, the staysail has to come all the way down and have the tack move across, as well as the halyard. But at those speeds, it worked out. Added half a knot or more. Fun effort on a perfect day for trying it.

Similar to what you did, but when I had a similar issue Graham said, just push up on it from the bottom. Duh. Worked great.

Had it made by the skilled canvas workers at the Harken shop here. I was able to stand with them and mock up several possibilities and take advantage of their good ideas.

Ah, but I didn't let the varnish go.