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Paul356 last won the day on August 5

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About Paul356

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  1. No weak links. Just went north for 6 days of sail camping on Rainy Lake near International Falls. Spent a whole day double reefed, no issues.
  2. Come any time, except a week from now boat and I are going sail camping in the minnesota northwoods. Cant wait.
  3. I used drywall screws thru plywood pads to fasten the deck down. Then filled the holes when screws out. Worked well, ooks swell. Wax the screw threads s so they'll come back out easily. I used clamps where possible. For example. Consider at least a rough cut of the hatch opening so you can get some clamps in there. Use lots of screws, every 6 or 8 inches where there are bends, for example. I believe I screwed perimeter only, not interior, or at least not many interior.
  4. I used jamestown's total boat non skid paint on the floor of my cs 17, straight from the can, over their primer. like it a lot.
  5. I do what I describes, on my 17. As he says, it takes 30 seconds. I have the second reef line in place on the main mast.
  6. That explanation (about which you have nothing to apologize for, pete) makes a lot more sense than plywood snapping from sailing too much. Like a lot of us, I suspect, I went and looked over my rudder. I'm pretty sure I didnt glass it, but there is absolutely no sign of stress. Plus the pressure on the tiller is so light, I dont know how a "stress fracture" could arise anyway. All very informative, tho. And nicely handled by all involved.
  7. More aft rake in the mizzen would give you more, not less, weather helm. (I think?) I rely on a filled mizz to help move the boat. If you bring the centerboard up on a beat, the nose will fall off and make your beat less efficient. Don't dismiss the need to keep crew weight forward and keep the boat only slightly heeled when going to wind. Also make sure sails are snugged down relatively flat upwind, with both downhaul/halyard and snotter/sprit tension pulled in. After that, we await word from Graham. "Relatively flat" = heeled enough to keep the chine in, but not a lot more.
  8. Well done, Ted. You know your mom is proud.
  9. I'm not sure how it will work on your rig with the tabernacle, but since my main mast steps thru the deck, I'm able to leave the two reefing downhauls lying with extra slack on the deck (with the hooks in place). Then when I hoist the main, there's no extra tension. I pull the slack out of downhauls once the sail is up. You're right that it all adds some minutes to setup and requires some care, but for me the peace of mind is worth it. So is the knowledge that my little ship is properly rigged.
  10. I put mine right rear for some of the same reasons you described: tried to imagine where things would feel most comfortable as I sat and operated the motor. So, whatever works best for you and your layout, I'd say. Once away from the dock I usually keep the motor fixed and steer with the rudder. But I would not link them in case you need to do some quick maneuvering, when youd need to swivel the motor.
  11. I did a lot of drilling, screwing, unscrewing, refilling, etc., etc. As recently as last week after 4 yrs on the water. No shame in realizing some adjustments might work better. Best of luck to you.
  12. I cleat my clew reef lines to the boom, like you're showing. I don't run them forward first; just up from the boom, through the reef clew, back down to the boom, thru a turning block forward and into a clam. I do that on both main and mizzen sprits. I hadn't thought too much about the line that accumulates, but I guess I'd just coil it up in a bundle, clove hitch it, and let it hang from the sprit. BTW, I treat the cringles at the main mast like you do: rig a hook, lead the line up, down and then back to the cockpit. The whole reef takes easily less than a minute. The mizzen holds
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