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Paul356 last won the day on February 15

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  1. I got graphite from duckworks. https://duckworks.com/graphite-powder/ i just used some west graphite yesterday at our volunteer boat shop. it seemed the same. i don't know about cost comparisons.
  2. I ended up with 4 coats of graphite epoxy on the bottom of the Duckworks Scout I built last summer. (Sorry all, non-B&B product.) I was impressed with the way it held up to Door County Rocks and miscellaneous driveway scuffs. It certainly is better than scuffing through enamel and revealing primer or glass. I did some sanding with 320 between coats to get it smooth and glossy the way I wanted. I recommend it. But no studies.
  3. Like Amos, my trailering rig is pretty much the same whether I'm going near or far. Unlike Don, I leave the reef lines rigged all the time. The reefs are just too valuable to try to estimate when I'll need them and when I won't, I've found. (Calm wind at the ramp doesn't always mean the same away from shore, for example.) Rigging the reef hooks in the main seems to take f-o-r-e-v-e-r. So does putting the main sail slides on the track. The mizzen reefing and sail tracking seems much quicker for whatever reason. I leave the sprits attached to the sails and just sort of scrunch the sails up to the sprits, tie them with some strops and put them in the boat. I leave all halyards and other mast lines attached. I have a nice canvas over that goes over everything, but then again that takes some time to go on and off. But that time is less than the time it took to tie everything down and trailer without a cover. With cover, I can leave all the equipment loose in the boat. Unfortunately, I have not been able to get my solo set up time down much below 30 minutes, and I usually figure at least 45 by the time I get the boat set up, backed into the water, launched, car parked, and back to the boat. (My thought is that a lot of folks tend to ignore the launching, parking and walking back time when they talk about setup time.) I'm pretty sure it takes me longer to set up my CS 17 Mk I than it does to set up a Mk III, since the masts on the Mk IIIs are on tabernacles and whip up. I take the rudder off for trailering and take the motor off, too (goes in the car). The masts go up pretty quickly; it's all the other fussing that seems to take a while.
  4. The attachments on the sides are the little turn screws. You put the oval shaped piece in the canvas over the fitting and turn the top of the fitting. It's worked well on the dodger. Very quick, and has held up well in the dodger. They just used some wood screws, yes. I've watched for signs of either pulling loose or water intrusion or other ills, but so far nothing that I can see. I figure if something goes bad, I can substitute small flathead through bolts, but not needed yet.
  5. We stayed together ok. I put a reef in, others didn't. It took me a while to get all my strings pulled in the morning; the SCAMP was off and running. No question the CS is faster when it's a mind to, tho.
  6. Inside, but without the platform boards in place....
  7. Here's what I have now. (Instead of the full mizzen mast, I just had a piece of mast tubing stuck in for the canvas crew to work with.) In use, I'll run the mizzen sail up above this unit and tie the sail and sprit up with the halyard. Same for the main. This rear "tent" ties into the dodger I already have. The back end hangs down to the bottom and lands on the seats with no tie downs, enough to run rain down and off. It's stiff enough that I don't foresee any wind problems. The sides are snapped in. There are screens in the back, with canvas covers over, and the back flaps also roll up nicely for an open rear if desired. As I mentioned earlier, I gave up trying to keep the full cockpit dry. This gives me enough room to sleep and cook (if needed) on the platform made of the boards I put across the front footwells. Yes, there will be rainwater on the boat bottom below, but I will bail and pump it out when the time comes. Works for me, I guess. Harken Canvas did the work.
  8. Your work looks great. I'm especially impressed by the long, smooth whitish fillets. Good tip on peel-ply, too.
  9. Correct, no plans in the Mark I set for a tabernacle. It looks like the heel of the mast in the Mk III calls for a 17"+ swing and allows for a breast hook. I think that would require moving the main mast aft in the Mk I. Who knows if that would work. I remember asking Graham 'way back if I could convert my Mk I to a Mk III while building. He noted the hull shapes, etc., where quite a bit different. It looks to me like the Mk III is quite a bit deeper or steeper in cross section up front. I guess I'd still look for an ok or plans from Graham or Alan.
  10. Sort of holding a ruler up to the Mk I plans, it might be do-able, but it looks really tight using the CS 20 plans. If a 16.25" bury is needed on the mainmast as shown, and building and installing the tabernacle as shown, that would put the lower end of the pivoting mainmast right at the peak of the bow. Would it pivot through there or not? Also, there would not be any room for a breast hook as shown on the CS20 plan, in my quick estimate, so there might be a reinforcement issue. I agree with Reacher that putting up the main mast is the easier of the two, since I put a little cup in the forward edge of the step tube and all I have to do is slide the main mast forward and walk it up. Getting it out is a different project, tho. Hydraulic lifts! Ha! That would be something.
  11. Right, no bulkhead immediately behind the mast. If you make an open anchor locker before the mast, you will need to do some sea-proofing in the bow compartment. Now I see why you were asking about the first bulkhead. You were thinking bow, I was thinking back where the cuddy starts. Come to think of it, a little anchor well up front would probably be nice, tho. Even if there wasn't a tabernacle. But then the king plank wouldn't run up to the bow, and then some added reinforcement would be required, and then....
  12. Don, here are some excerpts from the plans. (you can ignore the lines in green and the 10" and 24" notes. I was thinking out loud.) As you can see, the front bulkhead is accessible from the front hatch, with a stretch. But the main mast step is very far forward. And as an aside, I don't think I can reach the step from the hatch as is. Whatever I did to the step I did before I installed the foredeck. I for one don't see a tabernacle reaching down to the step. I think at best you'd be looking at a two-piece setup, meaning partial mast (or tabernacle, I guess) reaching up through the deck level and then the main mast pivoting up into that. One caution is that the main sail foot comes down very close to the deck on the aft side of the mast, at least as the sail is cut now. All that caution aside, you're a pretty clever guy, I suspect, so it will be interesting to see what you come up with. And I'd be real interested if Graham has plans. --pb
  13. You can get to the front of the first bulkhead from inside the bow compartment, although some of it is going to be a stretch. The main mast is very far forward. Just thinking about it, I can't quite feature how you'd get the main below deck level to pivot forward. But, I do have plans and can try to send you some when I return home tomorrow or Sat.
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