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JPower210 last won the day on December 6 2016

JPower210 had the most liked content!

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About JPower210

  • Rank
    Advanced Member
  • Birthday 09/10/1967

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Beaufort, NC
  • Interests
    Anything water.... and two little ones.
  1. Spindrift 10 build

    Stewie's head... that's funny. Are you putting a hatch cover on it? You'll notice it a lot less if/when you do, and it's painted. My 17 has a flush fitting hatch in the same spot and it kind of disappears when painted and the hatch cover is there-
  2. Sailing the CS17

    Congrats!!! Awesome to hear that Sandy is on the water- I'm not going to make the messabout this year, but let me know if you ever get down to the Beaufort area and we'll take Irie and Sandy for a sail together- JP
  3. Utah OB20

    Carter- she is looking great- those planks at the bow are a treat, huh? I better get going on mine- you are catching up quick- I am fairing out the bottom glass now and looking forward to getting the boat right side up- weather/job/family commitments/other projects all seem to be conspiring to slow me down. Take care- JP
  4. Utah OB20

    Carter- I use the nails as well as the staples in my projects- for the planking, I think the staples worked better than the nails due to more surface area with the two legs and the crown helping to prevent pull out. Those square head pocket screws that Ken mentioned are great as well. I was really happy that I did not have any screw holes to fill on the side planking. The blow out mentioned is easy to fix, but I did find that getting a staple length that was just shy of the double planking thickness, and watching my air pressure on the staple gun to just set the crown at the surface, avoided most of that. Looking good! JP
  5. Utah OB20

    I would have thought so, but I didn't need anything but the staples. Couple of the planks required starting the fastening to start in the middle and working out from there. The aft planks were easy, the forward ones were a bit more work. Typically, I took the 8" section, and cut to rough size, placed where it was going to go and held it with a couple/few staples in the middle of the plank. Then I would scribe for fit to the preceding plank, break the staples and bandsaw to fit. Mix up my epoxy with cabosil, apply, and refit the plank and staple. I cut notches in a flexible scraper and used that to apply. Worked well, and I hung every plank by myself. So far, the only screws I have needed were on the tight bends on the bottom planking. JP
  6. Utah OB20

    Congrats on the progress so far- I am building the 20 as well- as far as the stringers go- I tried to get away without steaming...but that did not work. Ended up with Juniper for the stringers for the last two runs, with the sheerline out of 3 separate pieces and I still had to steam- Like Ken I used a 4" piece of PCV, capped with a rubber cap on one end and a couple of small holes drilled along the length. I bought a steam generator, but I know I'll use it for some other projects. That was after I broke quite a few. The side planks are fun as you really get to see the shape come together. I put the last one on this morning! I do recommend composite staples for the job. I use the Red Hawk ones, but Raptor makes good ones as well- It made the planking go much quicker than it would have, especially on the second layer- Heed Graham's advice about narrower planks at the bow- I ended up with 24" most of the way down the sides, 1 16" course at the start of the curvature and 8" the rest of the way. Doing it over I might even consider 6" at the points of most flare just to take a little of the stress out. By the end of the planking I was definitely ready to be done, but I am quickly progressing to post fiberglassing sanding- at which point I am sure I will wish I was still hanging planks. Beautiful building spot, and looking forward to seeing your progress! JP
  7. OB 20 or 24

    And I will add a little more detail- I decided on the 20 after seeing the 20 that Chick built in person- I plan to use it in the sounds here in NC, mostly as a weekend cruiser/day boat. I wanted a way to get out of the sun, as well as shallow draft and a place for my two little ones (2 and 5) to grab a nap as well as have a porta potty. My plan is to sew up a canvas enclosure for the cockpit for those times that all 4 of us want to sleep on the boat for an overnight, and to build the "kitchenette" that Chick designed for heating up a breakfast/coffee, etc. I have a larger sailboat for any longer cruises that I might want to do. The 20, for me, seemed to be the right design, that checked off all of the boxes, that would still be practical for a quick run down to the ramp for an hour on the water. I am lucky that I live close to a lot of great boating areas. I originally bought the plans, but, in the end, went with a kit. My time in the shop, between family and work, is fairly limited, and cutting plywood is not tops on my list of things that I like doing. I think the kit is saving some fairly significant time, maybe not in the overall project, but definitely in how quickly it looks like a boat, and that keeps the motivation going for my late night building sessions after the family is asleep. Construction so far is straightforward, I am close to finishing up planking the hull and will glass and fair next. Then I'll flip and start on the fun stuff. This being my second B and B boat, I can't say enough about the quality of the plans, the B and B crew, and the resource that this forum is. Good luck with your decision making and don't hesitate to ask more questions! JP
  8. OB 20 or 24

    HI VTboat- my sense- based on my experience completing a CS17 and being in the process of an OB20, is that the cost will be fairly incremental, and the time will be more but not exorbitant. Building the boat does not take that much, it's all the finishing, accessories, level of trim, motor, etc. that add up in time and cost. I chose the 20 more for usability than anything else. I also liked the proportions a bit more, but most importantly, that extra 4 feet, for me, would have seemed a lot more as I got it on and off the trailer by myself, etc. I did not need the extra interior room for my purposes. Are you in Vermont? Where will you use the boat? JP
  9. I've built a few of these- I'd build a 2x10 frame the size you want, with couple of cross pieces, spaced so the blocks fit inside the frame. I'd hold the blocks in with some lawn chair webbing. I'd deck it with pressure treated decking. I'd mount a few cleats for convenience, and on the side you want to pull the boat up, I'd either make a roller out of pvc pipe, or even more simply, get some of the angle dock trim that is made out of white rubber. Use the white or it will leave ugly marks on the hull. Carpet is your choice, but I would leave it off so it does not hold moisture against the wood. If you want to get really fancy, a couple of custom fitted chocks for the boat would be elegant. Good luck!
  10. Trailer for Core Sound 17

    Yeah, what he said
  11. Trailer for Core Sound 17

    I have about three feet of overhang on mine and don't worry about it too much- I do take my motor off for trailering though since it just seems like it is not a smart idea to add that weight cantilevered over the end-
  12. Fiberglass Guide?

    Thanks Par- Those are helpful resources. I am pretty comfortable with most of the descriptions, and uses, but still have questions when it comes to some of the more arcane descriptions, like style numbers. But, I think I found some answers by going to the fiberglass cloth manufacturer website versus the retailers. JP
  13. Fiberglass Guide?

    Does anyone know of a good source for fiberglass cloth info? For example, what's the difference between 1800 and 7500 "style" mean in 10 oz. cloth? I have been googling, but have not found a good comprehensive guide. Thanks! JP
  14. mounting hardware on sprits for CS 17

    Hi Tom- I did not thru bolt on mine, but did drill the holes oversize, fill with epoxy, and redrill for the hardware. No problems to date. JP
  15. Paint Removal and High Build Primer

    Greendane- in case it has not been mentioned, be sure to scrub any new epoxy, between coats if they cured, or the final coat if you put the coats on green, with a scotch brite pad and some warm water to get rid of any blush.