It's a sailboat, right? So why do we spend all our time fussing with motors, batteries, trailers....
But at least today, little Miss Suzy Q started right up. One more thing to check off the list for the first trip of the season with the CS 17, planned Saturday to Lake Mendota in Madison.
Any racing advice for someone who’s about to start a race in light air with My core Sound 17? I’m in the second day of racing. Had some trouble yesterday getting stuck when tacking. Wondering whether my weight should be forward since I’m going solo? I’m welcome to any other Css 17 sailing tips.
Has anyone attempted to get a rating for their CS 20#3 to enable club or event racing? I am faced with the dilemma of whether to apply to Australian Sailing, the body that determines local rules and handicaps, for what is known as a class-based handicap (CBH). It is needed to participate in any point scoring racing and seems to be quite a process. If anyone has done anything similar and succeeded elsewhere the details could be helpful to me if I pursue this here.
Interested to hear your experiences, especially those who have participated in events such as the Everglades Challenge.
Hi All. Looking for advice on this specific ez-loader trailer type for a CS-17. I'm shopping used and hoping to be all in for under $500 and need galvanized for the salt water.
First, I don't know what impact those swiveling bunks would have on a non-aluminium boat.
Second, I'm trying to limit overhang to less than 4 feet.
Third, while I could add keel rollers forward of the joint, it seems like a pretty big hole in the middle (between the rear and the triangle joint where I could add one). Seems like I'd want to have one there in the middle of outer space?
Of the lighter-duty trailers I've seen recommended on the forums (capacity 600-1000 lbs), this is pretty common to find this model in my neck of the woods. This one is going for $350.
Hi All--I picked up a CS17 almost a year ago. Yesterday I finally got it flipped over for some maintenance on the keel. There is some exposed wood and am not sure the best way to go about this. Looking for input from the fine folks here.
First, I plan to take off the aluminum rail and the two steel (not stainless) trailer "roller guards" (the aluminum covers the front 2/3 of the keel--the back only has the two guards). Next, I plan to remove the paint the length of the keel (and an inch or so on either side of it) and start removing bad wood. If it's not too bad, I'm thinking I'll fill it up back to original form with thickened epoxy (with wood flour). If there are places where it's worse, I'll carve out that section and epoxy some oak in to replace it. Because I didn't build it, I'm not sure how it was constructed but it looks like the keel was glassed. After I fill it all back in, should I reglass it? One layer? And am I better to use something other than aluminum? I've read about brass and all that, but most of this wear comes from the trailer, not use in the water or on beaches.
Second, as you can see in the pictures, the bow takes a little bit of a beating. I primarily boat in the saltwater around Camano and Whidbey Islands north of Seattle. The beaches are pretty rocky most of the time (and I do my best to find the "softest" landings I can). You can also see some of the roller scars from not quite getting it lined up before pulling in onto the trailer. (I'm getting better at it but I sail single-handed a good bit of the time--and sometimes the water conditions are pretty choppy at retrieval) I'm wondering what options I have to keep this part of the boat better protected. Extra layers of epoxy? Some strips of glass? Other?