Summer Breeze - Core Sound 17, Mk-3

[frowley]

Chick, I sure hope your hand is healing well. LIke many other folks who have posted - I've come close enough myself that I could readily be in your shoes,

 

 

As for the foredeck cleat, I'd been thinking one cleat immediately aft of the main mast, but frankly hadn't yet pondered the conflict with the other lines leading aft. Offsetting the cleat to stbd, as Jay does, makes sense since with the lines running aft to port, you'd never cleat on that side.  Are you still thinking that's where yours will go? 

 

Were the other cleats you mentioned early on for the aft deck? If so, any concern about conflicts with mizzen sheets or the outboard? I saw that Alan put 'bow' eyes on each transom corner on Dawn Patrol, that seems like an alternative to cleats. I'm kind of wanting to plan this stuff so I can make sure blocking gets glued in.

 

I'm also, (if it's not too much of a drag to type one-handed(?) )  curious about your outboard. I have no experience with them, but figured I'd just get the 2.5 HP suzuki since it's popular, cheap, somewhat quieter, and apparently reliable. But based on what the internet tells me, the outboard mounted to the CS17 MK3 transom should have a 20" shaft, and the suzuki only comes as 15". Is yours a larger outboard? Or is it that, at our speeds, cavitation is not an issue?

 

Thanks again for doing such great work ahead of me! There are lots of us out here who look to you for continued great advice and ideas!

 

All the best from Seattle.

 

fred

[Chick Ludwig]

Fred, I have the Suzuki 4-stroke 2.5 hp. It is a short shaft. (By the way, although these short shaft motors are called 15", they are actually 17".) I'll attach a picture of my transom set-up. I still need to add a wedge on the back of the transom so the motor shaft will be vertical. The cutout in the transom allows the foot of the motor to rotate all the way around for reverse. It also gets the prop deep enough in the water. I really like this motor. Be sure to use gas without ethanol, add Stabil, and shut off the gas and run the motor out of gas before storage. The mizzen sheet will foul on the motor shaft when it's kicked up. There is conversation on the forum about how to prevent this.

 

I use stern cleats. They will probably be on top of the cockpit coaming just ahead of my boom gallows. I'll be working on the gallows next week, so check out the pictures then. (My first project with "stumpy".)

 

I'll probably have cleats port and starboard for the anchor and docking. They'll be about in line athwartships with the mast. My anchor will be on a bow sprit. The sail control lines will come to turning blocks just aft of the tabernacle..They will all lead aft. Some to port, some to starboard. They'll run along side of the fore-deck and companionway hatches to cleats at the aft end of the cabin top. These will be halyard, downhaul, snotter, sprit topping lift, and reefing pennant.

 

As far as typing is concerned, i only use one finger on each hand, so it's no problem.

 

   

[Tom Lathrop]

As to the saw, I immediately thought of the arbor/blade connection being broken when I heard magnetic clutch. The blade could be engaged or disengaged at the drive hub by magnets. You get it snug with a bolt, but the magnets would lock it up to cut. When you get bit, the blade will spin free while the arbor keeps turning. Surely, if we can move trains with magnets, we can connect a blade to an arbor, right?

By we, I mean people who do math for fun. You guys think I'm sick?

Here's the part about my back nobody ever believes. When it gets bad, super tight hamstring and lower back, flashing hot/cold/numb down the calf and foot, going for a run always makes it better. I am not advocating Chick go run a marathon on his hands to feel better, though.

 

I think you have the idea I was thinking about although you probably did not mean that the blade spins free but that it is free from driving force of the arbor.  It therefore has minimal kinetic energy to get rid of with the brake.  It occurs to me that Teflon blades would not work well with this system.

[Dan0]

An alternative to the SawStop table saw might be one that Bosch has been developing.  You can search for it by just typing "reaxx" into your search engine to get a list of results.  I've not seen any new information on this saw recently and it appears SawStop has filed legal action to stop Bosch from marketing their saw.  Some interesting things about the Bosch REAXX is that it doesn't damage the blade, it is cheaper and easier to reset the mechanism, and appears to have some other well thought out technical improvements.

[frowley]

I like the sound of your cleat layout - I think I was worried the coaming, for the aft cleats, might not be sturdy enough. Also good to hear the motor will work on the CS17.

Thanks!

[Chick Ludwig]

My coaming will be sturdier than the stock layout with the ends closed and the boom gallows built in.

 

I finished and installed my main mast tabernacle today. I'll post pictures tomorrow after clamps come off. I was cutting the parts for this when I had my little argument with the table saw.

 

Once the deck forward of the mast is on, I'll mock-up the bow sprit, anchor and roller, and cleats.

[Action Tiger]

Argument? Like you wanted to cut a miter, and it wanted to cut a finger joint? I am sure that's the last one.

Glad you are healing nicely. This will also help your recovery, this getting back to normal activities. The fascia has a strange connection between nerves and muscles. The muscle memory will help your body feel more normal. In my experience...

[Chick Ludwig]

Hi y'all, I'm back with the promised pictures of the tabernacle. I measured the deck ahead of the cutout where the mast swings through the deck. There will only be a little more than 6" of deck ahead of this point to install an anchor on a sprit. This is gonna take some engineering to give the sprit enough support to take the force of the anchor deployed from the end of the sprit. Or I could be sure to run the anchor rode through chocks  mounted adjacent to the deck cutout. Any thoughts from you guys? The second picture also shows where I filled between the halves of the deck/cabin top there my deck parts were not wide enough.

 

This is it. The tabs on the deck are butt blocks for the forward deck section.

 

A view from aft. Also shows where I filled between the halves of the deck/cabin top. 

[Action Tiger]

You could put on a false clipper bow and some trail boards to support your sprit.

Or, perhaps a sprit that is two hockey stick shapes glued up (or even bolted up with the anchor roller between), then bolted through the deck on either side of your split.

It's actually raining here, so I'll go listen to it and sketch up my weird hockey stick idea...

[Chick Ludwig]

Looks like I'm ahead of ya. I had thought of the "weird hockey stick". But you came up with a name for it.

[Action Tiger]

Please excuse the poor quality of this drawing. I don't know if you're a roller in a notch guy, or a roller on either side guy, so the merest indication of anchor handling gear is there.

I think if it's short, like just for anchor handling, it should be fine. Is there a sheer clamp to tie into? Might could be pretty rigid after all...

[Action Tiger]

Looks like I'm ahead of ya. I had thought of the "weird hockey stick". But you came up with a name for it.

I'm trying to be the next Yogi Berra. Minus all the baseball skill and wit.

[Chick Ludwig]

That's about what I had in mind. I like a roller. And, yes, I used sheer clamps.  As Yogi said: "If you ask me anything I don’t know, I’m not going to answer."

[Action Tiger]

Just make sure you use feather boards and a push stick when you rip the laminates, yeah?

This could be a really handsome deal. I think you could double duty one of the through bolts and have a roller on each side.

My favorite Yogi-ism and personal mantra has always been, "When you come to a fork in the road, take it."

Appropriate for our weird hockey stick sprit, eh?

And, again, really happy you're up and at it already. Keep up the good work.

[Chick Ludwig]

Here is some progress on my boom gallows mount. I've capped the ends of the coaming. The 1-1/2" P.V.C. pipe will accept a removable 1-1/2" aluminum tubing that are the uprights for the boom gallows. You'll have to wait for the completion of the gallows until after the rest of the boat is done. It will be similar to the one on my CS-20 Mk-2. That was the first Summer Breeze. You can check it all out on that building thread.

 

 Plug at bottom to slip and epoxy the 1-1/2" P.V.C. pipe over.

 

 Pipe temporarily in place. There is a drain hole at the bottom.

 

 Finished installation. It all gets glassed when I glass the coaming tops.

 

I've also been working on the "pointy end" decking where the famous, and much debated, bow sprit / anchor roller is gonna go. I should have some pictures for y'all next week.

[Chick Ludwig]

The last few days have ben spent glass taping and sanding all of the corner joints on the coamings, deck, and cabin top. Along with that, I've finished the anchor well / mast pivoting slot thinghy. The opening is ringed with 3/4" wood to reinforce it and make it look "cool". Later on, the bow sprit will be added, but now it's time to move on to hatch coamings and forward and companionway hatches.

 

I don't think pictures of the deck corners are very exciting, but here's a couple pictures of the hull. And NO Verne, this is NOT the "head"!

 

 

[Don Silsbe]

Lookin' good, Chick!

[Steve W]

Chick, that second picture sure looks like it has a roll of TP ready for action. Might want to move that.

 

Seriously, when I get my boat that far, I'm going to have to leave off the tabernacle until I extract it from my basement shop. I measured Doug's boat carefully and I have an inch of clearance that could be even bigger if I take out the door frame, but I forgot about that appendage. Oops!

[Action Tiger]

After building a ship in a bottle myself once, full sized I mean, I swore off working inside. Mind you, I don't use much, if any, epoxy, and even freezing (yes, Virginia, it freezes, and even snows, some years, in California. The Baywatch just wear jackets...) don't bother wood or screws much.

Haven't got a boat stuck, since.

Although, I haven't really built a "big" boat since, either...

Chick, the trim on the well doesn't look "cool", it looks "neat". I'm not sure, but I don't think cool cares that much, although I'm not cool, so I wouldn't really know. Ask my kids.

I think it looks neat.

How's the digits, brother?

[Chick Ludwig]

Steve---TP indeed---it's a roll of paper towels. I keep then handy to wipe tears away so I can keep working while I cry over my latest boo-boo on the boat. Maybe it would be best to just take some time in the proverbial moaning chair---but there is no room in the shop for one. Hey, I think the hinge pin on the tabernacle looks kinda like a toilet paper holder...

 

Tiger, I never thought much about rain and cool in California---only that you'll all slip into the ocean one day! Ok, I'll go with your "neat". Or should I say "Awesome" like the teens around here say. As far as me being "cool"; never have been, ain't now, and never will be, Amen. Well, maybe the other meaning of cool. Cold, freezing, frigid, Brrrr, etc. Seems like this old Florida boy will NEVER get used to feeing cold!

 

Digits comin' along pretty well. At least well enough to work on "Breezie". gotta be careful though. Not much gripping strength and "feeling" is pretty odd. Thanks for asking.