LennieG Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Matt- seems to have worked out. I run out of energy by 9 pm so night time wasn't much of an option, but 5-9 was fine.Temps here work up to 87 degrees by 5 pm, even out of go down a degree an hour for three hours, basically. The "shop" however scares me because I never know if it continues to heat up. I did get little gas bubbles on one end of boat after sunbathing the boat, but sort of a roll and tip method seemed to solve it. See next post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Glassed the boat in two four sessions. Got into a few sticky situations but seemed to have come thru it ok. I do have some white patches which I will deal a with for I believe for a couple different reasons.....too little goo first night, maybe a little too much tonight. All in all pleased and look forward to keeping on schedule for rest of month. The boat was thirsty and so was I......you guys ever notice beer taste really good after a glassing session? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Matt- seems to have worked out. I run out of energy by 9 pm so night time wasn't much of an option, but 5-9 was fine.Temps here work up to 87 degrees by 5 pm, even out of go down a degree an hour for three hours, basically. The "shop" however scares me because I never know if it continues to heat up. I did get little gas bubbles on one end of boat after sunbathing the boat, but sort of a roll and tip method seemed to solve it. See next post. Matt- I am referring to "roll and tip " while applying unthickened epoxy coat to the bare wood prior to laying glass down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Matt- seems to have worked out. I run out of energy by 9 pm so night time wasn't much of an option, but 5-9 was fine.Temps here work up to 87 degrees by 5 pm, even out of go down a degree an hour for three hours, basically. The "shop" however scares me because I never know if it continues to heat up. I did get little gas bubbles on one end of boat after sunbathing the boat, but sort of a roll and tip method seemed to solve it. See next post. Matt- I am referring to "roll and tip " while applying unthickened epoxy coat to the bare wood prior to laying glass down. David- Sorry I called you Matt. Long day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Added another layer of epoxy today. Boat looking good with exception of one section 18" by about 4', where the glass didn't adhere. I had sanded in this general area by hand prior to adding new layer of epoxy prior to glassing this side. I think I just learned the same lesson (dummy) about cleaning before sanding, and/or after sanding. In any event this section not right. I am assuming that tomorrow I can sand this section down to bare wood or close to it ( I did not add epoxy to this area today), then patch in new glass. Would appreciate any red flags on that approach...... Thanks The good side and bad side photos below: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted May 21, 2014 Report Share Posted May 21, 2014 Yep, grind it down to known good material (get into the base epoxy coat) and try again. I (and others) have said it a lot, but the home builder should always assume a blush is present on cured epoxy, even if it's non-blush formulated. Preventing blush is easy, but requires more "forethought and planning" then typical home builder can employ or has at their disposal. I know a guy building under a tree in his backyard and wants to "control blush". I wasn't trying to be rude when I busted out laughing, at the mentioning of this request, but it's not a lot different than building in a garage, just less bird poop. Besides, the average home builder, just has horrible "building conditions" so dust, wood chips, bugs, the stray cat or two will all conspire to contaminate any coating (goo, paint, varnish, etc.) and you have to clean each surface for the next steps. It's lesson we all have to learn at some point - sorry it was your turn Lennie. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Thanks a lot Paul! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 When I tell people I am building an 18 footer, what I really mean is that it looks great from a distance of about 18 feet away.  It is tough to get a superior finish in homebuilding conditions.  Will never forget the day that I applied a coat of varnish, then my neighbor started up his leafblower to clean the dust off the adjacent driveway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 There's all sorts of things that can create dust, many you'd never have guessed. Fluorescent lamps make dust from thin air for example, so if you have these in your shop/garage or over your work, you'll get dust, even in a vacuum sealed booth! The tubes vibrate when lit and also positively attract dust particles out of the air, which then get vibrated off, after combining with other particles and becoming big enough, to let gravity over come this magnetic attraction. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 I heard of a similar situation where glass was not adhering and it turned out that the builder had sprayed the "garage" door track with silicone spray, which ended up on the surface of the boat..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hirilonde Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 I heard of a similar situation where glass was not adhering and it turned out that the builder had sprayed the "garage" door track with silicone spray, which ended up on the surface of the boat..... Silicone is pure evil! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Silicone has its limited uses, so not as bad, if used appropriately. Now, my ex-wife was pure evil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Glassing done....final epoxy coat on....bring on the 120 grit Glassing done....final epoxy coat on....bring on the 120 grit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 26, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 26, 2014 Final sanding done, and ready for paint week. I cannot say enough about the Festool Random Orbital sander. Despite the drudgery of sanding, this tool is worth the extra money and it "hums", it is light and is easy on the hands and connects up easily to a box store shop vac for a pretty much dust free job. Looking forward to getting the Interlux Pre-Kote primer on next couple days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted May 27, 2014 Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Lennie, I see low spots, but these might fill in with primer. If the primer comes out of the can fairly thin or doesn't seem to have much "bulking" agent to it, add a cup of 50/50 silica and talc. Of course, stir well and apply with a roller, focusing on an even, uniform coating. The silica and talc will make it more sandable and will extend the amount of surface area you can cover slightly too. Two good, healthy coats, let cure good and long board with the down and back routine I described earlier. You'll remove at least one coat of this, probable parts of both, so be prepared for two more bulking (blocking) coats of primer, before top coats. This assumes a really nice finish. If you're looking for a work boat or handyman special finish, then just scuff up a couple of coats of primer and top coat. It'll look fine - you're doing great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 27, 2014 Thanks Paul. The Primer is a hide and build product (Interlux Pre-Kote) with microspheres in it so that I assume that covers your suggested additives. I have a plan to do one primer coat today, one tomorrow, one finish thurs and one Friday, and move on. The advantage of the schedule is I can rent a nearby vacant storage room (two doors over) at end of month for about $8 a day, and it is saw dust free for last coat. I will look for the thinness you describe when I started rolling and consider everything you said. I want this phase over (funny how I love boat building yet thrilled when each stage over) yet I do want a great finish so may have to do it right. Thanks for the guidance Paul. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted May 28, 2014 Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 You can save some effort by very lightly long boarding (cross hatched pattern) after the first coat. This will quickly identify the high and low spots, so the second coat can be more specific. You might find you need to do areas, let this dry and long board again, to fill the lows. The real benefit will be the lows that are really low, might actually need a smear of filler, because it would take way too many coats of primer to fill them. I also tend to use two different colors on the first and second coats, which helps ID stuff too. Interlux Pre-Kote is available in white and gray, but you only need one color, say white and a few drops of black (any alkyd paint) in the roller tray (mix) will add enough color, so you can see the two coats after long boarding. Â I say this because fairing is difficult for the novice builder to get. It's real easy to not see lows, if the color is all the same between coats, especially if the light is poor or from the wrong angle. The initial build primer coats are where you want to make significant surface changes. This save lots of sanding and grinding later and the surface will be getting close to smooth too, which is also a help. I always add some additional "bulking agent" to primers, mostly because I know I'm going to sand off 80% of the second coat anyway, so I want it to fill as much as possible. If the second coat is location specific, you'll use less primer, just focusing on the lows, so when the third coat goes on, you're close and refining the surface is faster and easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted May 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 28, 2014 Paul- Thanks- great info! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted June 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2014 Three coats of primer on, and looking pretty good. One or so to go, then moving on to the enamel. Working with my friend Paul who loves being around this stuff too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted June 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 7, 2014 First coat of oil -based enamel semi-gloss (Interlux) is dry and looks ok. Second coat going on tomorrow and third and hopefully final coat (I did four coats of Interlux Pre- Kote primer) will be Monday. I do see many brush marks. The jury still out on my Roll and Tip skills. Tomorrow's refinement will be thinned paint and lighter touch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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