Dnjost

I used 4200 to install the bailer. Going strong 10 years later, new gasket last year.

Almost there with mine. Slow and steady wins the race. Hope to be on the water Thursday

In 9 years, no issues with the stern hatch on my cs17, no water even after test capsize, or bottom cleaning days. I use wooden toggles to keep it closed, with hatch seal tape as well. i did need to re-apply the tape to the port and starboard seat lockers, as well as bow hatch. The masthead float works very well at getting the biat upright again quickly.

interesting read. After 9 years on the water, i have begun some refurbishing of my CS17. When the tropics start to heat up with Atlantic action I pit her back on the trailer and tend to some items. Also getting to enjoy the freedom of trailer sailing for a bit. so far: new bunk supports and brackets for the trailer. pulled the centerboard to address some checking/delamination. With the adage "if you built it, you can fix it". pretty smooth process so far. All sanded now, and will apply some fg laminations in epoxy. I think I skimped here during the build.

I notice that the electrics (epropulsion/torquedo) come in different shaft lengths than the standard 15/20/25 found on the gasoline engines. what epropulsion shaft length would be best for my cs17? Dont want to drag the prop in the water while sailing, but the prop needs to stay submerged while motoring across Nantucket Sound to the next harbor. The current motor is a tohatsu 3.5hp, 20" shaft. It stays down, but will cavitate in bumpy sea conditions.

I use both a Tohatsu 3.5 longshaft, and sometimes the Honda 2.3. When going out in Nantucket Sound, the Tohatsu is the tool of choice. Once I solved the stalling issue (clogged fuel filter, and good luck finding it), it runs great. Much quieter than the Honda. The ePropulsion and the Torquedo are just too pricey for my wallet. Does anyone convert their Tohatsu/Mercury to a remote tank? I could get to the Vineyard and back!

Congrats on a great choice of boat! I was thinking back to my build and 2 things I will always remember. 1. get help with the unfolding when going from 2D to 3D. It happens REAL FAST! 2. Check that the transom is tied in tight. If not, a hump will be seen in the last few feet of the bottom panels. Constantly check that all panels are fair prior to glass and epoxy. When time allows, I am going to do my next build. This fall, I am modifying my forward mast to accommodate a tabernacle as the bridge between me and the Atlantic has 10' clearance. photos will be posted of the conversion.

went out yesterday with 5 of us on board. Winds were shifty with gusts moving SW to W 15-21kts. I found that just paying attention to sail shape had me looking up frequently to see how the tell tails were flying. That masthead float sure works well up there too. but, I'm only 66. No ospreys have taken up residence, yet.

First sail of the season here on Cape Cod. Did not know it was there, makes a handy wind indicator, unobtrusive. 12 miles under the keel with a wide variety of winds.

A quick reply from Alan has me set up with the retrofit spar attachment for the float. A quick drilling of the tube for the button, and attach the 2 side brackets. We’re ready to take on some more serious water.

Just did the port locker last week. So far, so good. No water infiltration. Working on a better system to dog down these hatches. Ruminations of kayak style webbing and clasps.

Hmmm? Failed to measure the top section of my masts. Off by 1/4". I need to find a buddy with a lathe to remove 1/8" all around both plugs. Quite sad. Note: masts just came out of storage, and the failure to measure is all mine.

would love to hear how you "tune up" your hatches. I made made a similar discovery about the integrity of the cockpit hatches during a mundane bottom cleaning. Next project once it stops raining on Cape Cod. On the bright side, my new mast head float should help to keep us vertical and out of Davey Jone's locker.

If you are trailering your boat, don't worry about bottom paint. I have used System's Three waterbased linear polyurethane for my CS 17. painted in 2015. I have now reached the point where a repaint is in order 8 years later. Not bad! It will involve a light sanding, priming, then several thin coats of top coat. It is expensive paint, but easy to work with as multiple coats can be done in a day. It also can be burnished for a more yacht like finish. Just this year, I kept her on a mooring all season. Bottom paint was basic ablative style. once a season with a light brushing every month kept her algae and barnacle free for the season. Cleaned up with a brush and hose at the end of the season nicely. Will do again. Good luck! ps - all my other boats got Kirby's. Great for plain wooden boats.