LennieG Posted December 18, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2013 Next time around will get some fast hardener as it will speed up small glue jobs. Enjoying the journey but want to move forward as well. A couple more hours on CB should do the trick. Have enjoyed the sculpting aspect of it and look forward to trying the graphite powder on CB. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted December 19, 2013 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2013 Please don't...stay right there....think I got it.....bare with me overnight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2014 Back at the boat after a three week hiatus. Was getting burned out and needed to get away, which was nice but glad to be back at it. Plan to go hard for next five weeks. Glassed the CB today with mixed results. Tried the graphite powder mixed in to the epoxy while wetting down glass which someone had mentioned here........vey cool looking indeed! Had some issues with wrapping the glass. I had trimmed it a bit short after wetting it down (1" longer than planned end result) but the 10Oz glassed frayed at the edges more than expected and then would not wrap easily around the edges. I couldn't get it to stay down.After numerous attempts decided to trim close and perform some surgery on it tomorrow. The leading edge should be fine but the issue was mostly the trailing edge. Guess I'll try to sand it down good then mold on a graphite or other thickened edge.T the risk of looking like a complete novice, which I am, see attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 If radiuses are tight, it's wise not to bother trying to bend the cloth around. The usual course is to just razor off the excess fibers or fabric, when it's in the "green" stage. I recommend most back yard builders do one side of a part at a time. This lets the cloth hang over the edge, so it can be trimmed flush with a razor just after the goo has lost it's tackiness. The ends can be "capped" with fabric after the other side is sheathed. Â Another method is to temporary staple or tape the cloth around the corner. This leaves a bunched up, wrinkled area around the staples or tape, which can be razored or ground off later. Lastly you can try to apply the cloth on tacky goo, instead of wet goo. This will hold the cloth in place, though often with this approach, once you wet out the fabric, it pulls loose from the tacky coat below. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 Paul- All so true as I now know. Thanks. I am not sure how long this green stage lasts, but hoping to recover this morning and with the somewhat cool weather here overnight, full cure will not have happened. I don't think I will try to cap as it is a very tight radius on the training edge. Believe it will work out if I sand in places, add goo over the whole CB to fill the glass if needed, then add a three inch strip over the top of trailing edge with about a half inch overhang on each side (one at a time if needed). Then I can fill the space in with thickened goo as you mentioned earlier in a trailing edge discussion and grind it down.let me know if I am off base, and get some sleep Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted January 19, 2014 Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 That method sounds just fine Lennie and one that's employed often. The green stage can vary widely, depending on hardener type and temperatures, but generally if you can dent the not sticky goo with your fingernail, it's green. The 'glass strands that are wetted out, but hanging free will be stiff and tack free, but flexible to a degree. This is when you pull out the razor or knife and whack off the excess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2014 This is all working out great. 2 hours of sanding and getting rid of some bubbles and frayed edges from attempted wrap, and then added a cap on leading edge as well as another coat of plain goo. The graphite looks cool although I added too much yesterday and it was messy today sanding. Looked like a chimney sweep getting home. Probably not worth the time and expense of adding graphite, but despite being a probably 60 hour CB at end of process, it is going to be real nice! My motto going forward for my skill level is if the designer didn't suggest it: - it is probably not a good idea to "improve on it" - it is probably not necessary . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 22, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 22, 2014 Making progress. Capped the trailing edge with nice epoxy mold between fiberglass layers today as Paul has suggested. Edge got fatter and longer, so will have some sanding to do for sure. The CB may be worthy of its own name by the time it is done Peggy-O and Black Beauty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 CB coming along, with a little help from my friends on the forum. Thanks to Paul (PAR), Howard, Dale and all. Trailing edge is molded on, leading edge is capped and filled. I had decided to go for the grade A CB with encouragement from you guys here, instead of doing a quick and dirty one, and am very pleased with the result so far. On to the trunk! As always, the photo distorts but the CB looking very good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 CB coming along, with a little help from my friends on the forum. Thanks to Paul (PAR), Howard, Dale and all. Trailing edge is molded on, leading edge is capped and filled. I had decided to go for the grade A CB with encouragement from you guys here, instead of doing a quick and dirty one, and am very pleased with the result so far. On to the trunk! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 30, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 Well into the CB trunk now with good results. Decided to build a mock, trial run trunk with cheap ply to get comfortable with the concept. It fit like a glove so will move onto real thing next visit to shop. I barely had to make adjustments....love the kit! My keel batten did not end up straight up the center line so will probably line up trunk off cockpit sides instead of next to keep batten all the way down unless any red flags from you guys. This is all going relatively great! Best thing I ever did! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted January 30, 2014 Report Share Posted January 30, 2014 This was a "things coming together" kind of step for me too. Is the batten off center with centerline but parallel or is it not parallel with centerline? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 It is not parallel with the center line. The center line as far as I know is all good....it is just that the process of installing the keel batten was messy, the keel batten floated up on the goo bed and moved laterally as I was under the boat screwing it down. So just saying that I don't think it is a good idea to follow line of keel batten as I lock down trunk.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 It should be possible to make a big ass (technical term) "C" clamp looking sort of thing, to pick up the boat's actual centerline from below and transfer it, to the inside of the boat, maybe with just a plumb bob, from the upper arm. Then again you could also just measure from a fixed point in the shop to the boat's centerline on the outside and again for the inside. This would require a level and some diligence, but certainly quite possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted January 31, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 Suppose I drilled 4 or 5 screws right up onto the centerline from underneath, and through the keel batten, and then use those as centerline, and later fill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnjost Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 I set CL on the bulkheads and transferred them down to the batten. Then drew the CB slot off that mark. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Below are pictures of the "big ass" C Clamp....worked out great. thanks Paul! Photos distort but it is all true and square and took less than 90 minutes, cost less than $25 and all well worth the effort. Poplar wood from Lowe's worked great. The keel batten was only off by about 1/8" foreward bulkhead to back of trunk but glad I did it and gotta believe it will help performance, and my OCD mind. Also put final epoxy coat on trunk, and glued up center thwart. Great day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PAR Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Steering crooked isn't such a bad thing. Given enough beer on a lazy afternoon's sail, you're not going to notice much anyway. Simply put, if the case was off or canted an 1/8" from front to back, you'd be close enough in all but a race against Graham. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennieG Posted February 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Do you recommend light beer for performance? It looked a lot more than 1/8" back of trunk to forward bulkhead, and measuring off the bulkhead it looked like 1/2" utilizing the center of machine cut forward bulkhead beam. But this is why I can putt well.....I can't read a straight putt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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